Rockfax Description
An amazing effort for its day. Climb the lower slab right of centre to a break and runners. Step right and balance up the slab, using an undercut ear to make a tricky mantel/high step well above the gear. Continue to the next break and escape right. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A great effort for its day. Climb the lower slab right of centre to a break and runners. Step right and balance up the slab, using and undercut flake to make a right-facing mantleshelf a worrying distance above the gear. Continue to the next break and escape out right to the easy upper arete.

Frank Elliott 1930

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's.

Graeme Hammond 19/Apr Lead RP

As part of the direct finish

mike8331 13/Mar TR
Sam McCarthy 23/Feb Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 14/Feb 2nd β

I likened my attempt at the crux to repeatedly kicking a small child in the face - though it did work, just.

with Ian
ian d f 14/Feb Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 12/Jul/15 Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 12/Jul/15 2nd dog
with Flavio
drysori 16/May/15 Lead
with Everyone!
Canyak ??/2015 -
dan_o_b ??/2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
cem 05/Oct/14 Lead dnf

Unwilling to commit to the crux moves and scuttled off leftwards to Bridge's Variation.

David Mayers 12/Aug/14 2nd
with Stuart Howard
wazzalad20 ?/Aug/14 Lead rpt
wazzalad20 03/May/14 Lead O/S

First E2 onsight, what a route!

with anna henshaw
pie_eater_pete 21/Mar/14 Lead
bwestwood 10/Mar/14 2nd
soph 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Hidden ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
joese7en 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S
rurp 12/Nov/13 Lead

Great moves, too scared to finish direct but still a great climb

with bill farmer
drysori 10/Nov/13 Lead
BLodge 10/Nov/13 2nd
chrishedgehog 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with S. Hunt
Gudge 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Superb although found crux puzzling and wasn't too sure about the gear. Put another cam in and went for it!

with Alex Johnstone
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead β
tim_mcd 10/Aug/13 2nd
tomthecoolperson 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Andrew
Zoomer 06/Jun/13 TR O/S

Excellent climbing.

with A Student
EmileCilliers 06/Jun/13 Lead dog
Jake Young 31/May/13 Lead β
with Callum
Goose4 27/May/13 Lead O/S
manwithacam 27/May/13 Lead
with Dom
jwhereat 06/May/13 TR O/S
Cake 07/Apr/13 Sent β

Snowball to the VS traverse

Andy Peak 1 02/Mar/13 Lead
with H washbrook
Hidden 27/Feb/13 Solo rpt
victim of mathematics 09/Oct/12 Lead O/S

No idea where or what you'd mantel, rocking up facing left seemed the obvious move. Easy for 5b, but felt exciting given the dubious gear. First E2 in the UK. Whoop.

deacondeacon 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

I've done a few of the other routes on the slab so not a true onsight. Planned to try the direct finish but didn't have a cam to fit the pocket up high so slinked off right onto this. great route.

leon 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

down climbed from the crux on this two or three week s ago. found it hard to commit until i was able to visualize exactly how i thought the crux would go. went quite easily then. missed the rest of the cam slots so opted to finish up the e2 rather than down climb to gear & fall off.

with Derek
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
London Luke ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
rustaldo 11/Aug/12 Solo O/S

set out to do the E3 version with the direct finish but kopped out.

roberto18 28/Jul/12 Lead
with Tom Nickols
phardman 05/May/12 Lead rpt
mtempest 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 31/Mar/12 2nd

A great lead by Mike. With a cam either side of him he rose to the key hold and then - after a number of practice moves he committed and it stuck. I seconded in true mantelshelf stylee due to the usual lack of flex.

Guy Wilson 30/Mar/12 -
with Rick Cotgreave
mark20 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
tebs 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sam
akhughes 23/Oct/11 Solo β
Cragrat Rich 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Harrowing for a very short spell... I'm sure there are various different ways to either do it or screw it up!

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
SGD 14/Aug/11 Lead

I do love this route, felt really steady today, again was going to do the direct finish but was put off by the wind :(

London Luke ?/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/11 TR O/S
robman 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with steve tree
Rachel Slater 02/Apr/11 Solo O/S
MorganPreece 29/Mar/11 Solo β

Easy with some Beta from max!

with Max
quiffhanger 12/Feb/11 Solo
harvie 16/Nov/10 Solo O/S
Ollie B 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Birdo 30/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Bird
rockfrog70 21/Sep/10 Lead RP

A good route, one scary move on which I got my foot hooked on a CAM attached to my harness and had to let go mid crux move to free it! Do Not Let This Route Lull You Into Thinking E2 is easy this is very very low in the grade.

Alasdair88 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Claire
Lev 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd O/S
LankyPaddy 05/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Alistair Ross
Pythonist 01/Sep/10 Solo O/S

Airy, but obvious and relatively straight-forward crux. The rest is standard fun slab work.

JamieSparkes 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
llamaglama 08/Aug/10 Lead
with Jam
Diggler 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Foolishly did the mantle facing left at about 5c

theotherpetehill 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Right-hand finish (ran away onto the arete)

Hidden 04/May/10 Solo O/S
oliverthomp 28/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Solo rpt
tom.e 25/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Malcolm
Pete Graham 11/Mar/10 Solo
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Jonathan Hall 28/Oct/09 TR
Jonathan Hall 28/Oct/09 Lead rpt
SGD 09/Oct/09 Lead rpt
with Dale
SGD 16/Dec/08 Solo

right facing mantel? - I rocked up facing left?? great route, for me the crux was getting to the 1st break, did the e2 finish as I didn't like the reach....

SGD 06/Dec/08 Solo O/S

I do like this climb - still haven't done the E3 finish though....need a rope for that one

Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
steveb2006 17/Aug/08 Lead

Back off the very direct finish

with Roland Smith
gazfellows 21/Apr/08 2nd
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Danger
Sidekick ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/06 TR
nige pacer 03/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Gus 05/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with luisa giles
gonggashan ?/Jun/01 2nd
with Ben S
Strong Steve 16/Feb/01 Lead O/S
DavidBarraclough ??/1996 Lead O/S
The Reaper 23/Jun/94 TR O/S


NeilGriffiths ??/1994 Lead

Couldn't find a hold on direct finish and slunk off right

Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/91 2nd
Rob Davies 23/Apr/91 TR
phardman 03/May/89 Solo β
Dave Musgrove 15/Jul/84 Lead O/S
with Keith Bostrum
andy gittins ??/1982 -
nbotting ??/1982 -
Rob Davies ??/1981 2nd


with Tony Welsh
mikej 05/Oct/69 TR
with E
mikej 28/Apr/68 TR
with Geoff Williams
mikej 28/Apr/68 Lead dnf
with Geoff Williams
mikej 01/May/66 TR
with Mike Byles
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adamski1986, Hidden, pete_naylor, dunk3607, victim of mathematics, Hidden, Sam Marks, Hidden, phja, Hidden, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set