UKC

110m, 3 pitches. A counter diagonal line to Noe Buttress Direct.
1. 30m Start from ledges on the left side of the toe of the buttress and gain an ice smear. Exit right at its top, cross a small roof to a ledge and from its right end, climb another ice smear. Mixed ground leads to a tricky entry into a flake-groove. Belay at its top.
2. 35m Climb a flake and gain a wide crack formed by a monster block. At its top move right to ledges and climb a steep wall to a cramped recess below an overhang. Pull through to a ledge.
3. 40m Climb short grooves and more broken ground to the top.

I. Small, J. Walker 19/Dec/2004.

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Route of Interest
Hongos

Grade: V 5 ***
(Eilde Canyon)

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