Noe Buttress Direct** VI 6
120m, 3 pitches. A direct version of Noe Buttress up the front face. Start at the lowest point of the Noe buttress, just left of the right slanting gully of Cooper Cleft.
1. 40m Climb slabs to a right facing corner, up this to top and pull out left onto a ledge. Take a small icy corner and strenuously pass a small flake to an overlap and ledge above. Move left up a flake then back right across a steep wall to gain a slabby recess. Exit this to an easier groove and up rightwards to a huge flake belay.
2. 50m From the flake climb a left slanting ramp to below a monstrous perched block. Swing right to gain the wide crack behind it and climb to the top and the crest of the buttress. At this point the original route joins from the left. Continue up the buttress crest by the original route.
3. 30m Finish easily to the top.

I. Small, A. Hume 27/Jan/2004
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