A great piece of climbing. The wide groove, mainly on its right-hand side. The start is a boulder problem at about V2. © Rockfax
FA. Tim Dunsby 6.10.91 06/Oct/1991
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
|Phil Layton||05/Jul||2nd dog||
|Laurence Everitt||25/Jun||Lead O/S|
|Ed Houghton||21/Jun||Lead dog||
Found this harder than the other user ratings would suggest...
Once I'd sorted out the starting moves I onsighted it to the top.
|David Staples||02/Jun||Lead rpt|
|Sophie Nunn||09/May||Lead rpt|
|David Staples||03/May||Lead O/S|
|brian watson||24/Apr||Lead rpt|
Got on this as no other warm up lines were available thinking it was only 6a+ Just about managed the cruxy start with very cold hands. Thought provoking move to a jug in the grove using a small foothold. Overall very good climb, would be better if that ledge wasn't there!
Made a meal of this. Came off at the start, then got above this and took at the second bolt. Nervy, not trusting my feet! Fine on the moves above the ledge, although took a while to commit to the move into the groove.
Fun, wouldn't call it soft. Varied and not polished.
|Pete Scott||21/Dec/14||Lead O/S|
|Nick Russell||29/Nov/14||Lead O/S||
Dropped off the boulder start once. Difficulties quite sustained above the ledge.
|Montse Shelbourne||01/Nov/14||Lead O/S|
|grey wolf||29/Aug/14||Lead O/S||
The 'warm up'.
|Renna Clifford||17/Aug/14||TR O/S||
Bit of a dodgy start (hence the TR first attempt), but can be made easier with the right beta (go direct up towards the bolt and reach high for a right hand jug). Bit of a game of 2 halves with a crimpy technical start followed by a good rest on a ledge before a layback/bridging crack climb to the top. Bit stiff for the grade (maybe 6b+), but has a good rest.
|Qisheng Xie||16/Aug/14||Lead O/S|
|ian d f||11/Aug/14||Lead rpt||
Paula's clip stick came in handy
Tough start, then one tough section on the layback that I didn't commit to first time round.
Easy 6b/hard 6a+, much easier than European Flavour anyway
|Dan 85||26/Mar/14||Lead O/S||
|Gabe Oliver||22/Mar/14||Lead O/S|
|ian caton||14/Mar/14||Lead O/S|
|Abi Chard||14/Mar/14||Lead O/S|
Lovely climb. Great warm up.
6b in book with hard bouldery start.
|Sophie Nunn||19/Jan/14||Lead dog|
|brian watson||19/Jan/14||Lead O/S|
|Ed Booth||29/Dec/13||Lead O/S|
|adrian perera||13/Oct/13||Lead rpt||
Second assent 5 years on. Started raining immediately after cleaned! Pete's first outdoor ascent clean
|henry peter jenkins||01/Sep/13||TR|
|Luke Dawson||27/Aug/13||Lead O/S|
|ian d f||22/Aug/13||Lead rpt||
|Rafal Malczyk||11/Aug/13||Lead dog||
Pinar Tunc, Efe Tunc
|Curly Rich||30/Jun/13||Lead RP||
A few attempts at the start then completed with no style or grace top is horrid.
Caught out on the start searching for holds, lovely moves above
Alex, Matt Carwardine
6b in new Dorset Rockfax, I'd go along with that. Tough start and another testing move to get established on the jug in the upper groove. Good route.
|Sami Mandeel||08/Nov/12||Lead O/S|
|Brian H||02/Sep/12||Lead rpt||
|Dan Jenkin||26/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
James Witty, Emma, John, Rebecca Partridge, Rich Jenkin
|3 Names||23/Aug/12||Lead O/S||
good climbing for the grade, tough start which is a little polished
|Jordon Fleming||20/Jul/12||Lead O/S||
warm up in flip flops
|Alex Norman||17/Jul/12||Lead β|
Excellent route but seemed mighty hard for the grade - but was dog tired after diving in the morning.
|Adam Booth||23/Jun/12||Lead O/S|
|Alex More||11/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
Benchmark 6a really good line
|harold walmsley||04/Apr/12||Lead dnf||
Desperate. Couldn't gain what looked like a jug in the groove as worried about shredding skin off fingers if foot slipped. What I did was good though.
|Fraser hill-casey||24/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
Olaf, Luke, Simone
|Mike Green||20/Nov/11||Lead O/S||
A very solid 6A+ due to the start. wicked fun, not great feet at the lower-off makes the finish stressy.
|Oliver Sherman||16/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
Lora Townsend, Matt Ridgway, Phil Haigh
took me by suprise, really quite challenging, concentration and planning needed for the boulder problem at the start
|Joe Black||16/Sep/11||Lead O/S|
slipped off start.
nice route, burnt out.
|Haydn Jones||04/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
Fantastic climbing solid 6b.
Only got up to the first ledge then bailed
slipped off before first bolt :S
half way, tough but love it
Tricky start for the vertically challenged. Did take a schweet little whipper having moved off the ledge to the right and up into the crack/flake. Great little tester.
|Owen W-G||22/May/11||Lead O/S||
strenuous! tough start
|Kyle F||05/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
|Jim Gaffney||26/Mar/11||Lead RP||
Great climb but not a easy warm up and more like F6b.
Enjoyed this as warmup, but start really is pretty tough for the grade...
|Robin Head||15/Jan/11||TR RP||
robin head, Alex Dennis
|Barry Kerslake||12/Dec/10||Lead rpt||
who actually thinks this is 6a+? ridiculous grade, clearly this is 6b.
|ian d f||23/Oct/10||Lead rpt||
|Beck Holland||23/Oct/10||2nd dog|
Really enjoyed this route. Classic and very varied - bouldery reachy start, layback crack and overhang to finish. Think pretty tough for 6a+ though.
Mateusz, Beckholland, Tristan
|Jonathan Emett||16/Oct/10||Lead rpt||
|Christian Reynish||18/Sep/10||Lead O/S|
Excellent route, start takes a little time to figure out and then leaves you pretty pumped for the rest of the time. First climb of this height, felt quite exposed.
|Martin Cleaver||?/Sep/10||Lead O/S|
|Alex Mason||09/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
Savage for the grade. Boulder start is hard unless your tall, then the upper groove has some tensiony layback moves and the lower off is a big stretch. No easier than 'New Saladin'.
Jonny C, Rob M
annoyingly fell at layback move into groove but got straight back on and did it easily
|Curly Rich||04/Jul/10||TR dnf||
belayed darren on this awhile ago and erik today they both made it look like a good honest hard work climb, so thought i'd give it ago on a top rope. the start was knackering and the middle, had nothing left and couldn't finish. it may be awhile before i can lead at this level but will try this one again.
Had to have a few goes at the start.
|Bulls Crack||?/May/10||Lead O/S||
Slightly harder than Consomme?
|ian caton||20/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
|Mark Shale||27/Mar/10||2nd O/S|
|Si dH||26/Mar/10||Lead O/S||
Gets 6b in the new guide. I thought the move in to the groove wAs quite hard...rest of it ok.
Neil and Chris
|ian d f||27/Feb/10||Lead O/S|
|Ian JL||02/Jan/10||Lead rpt|
|Ed morris||??/2010||Lead O/S||
|Jonathan Emett||22/Sep/09||Lead rpt|
Good fun line, with massive rest halfway up. Was recommended by a couple of locals, to whom I'm very appreciative. Hard 6a+ though? Surely not.
my first 6a+ onsight
|John Henry Wynn||07/Aug/09||Lead dog||
Will Murray, Ben Kettle
|Dan Lane||03/Jul/09||Lead O/S||
First 6A+ onsight, and very nice it was too! large (4 foot wingspan)seagull with babies just above lower-off.
Got a bit nervous of falling and couldn't commit to the hard move in the upper groove - just one of those days, I suppose
After dogging it on the lead, cruised it on a top rope. Hard for the grade IMO
Great route! As it says, initial moves are around a V2 boulder problem, took a couple of tries to work out, but when I actually set off it all went okay. Few big reaches, then a rest on a big ledge, had a sit down! The rest of the route is slightly technical bridging and laybacking, but none of it hard, just trying to fight the pump I had gotten from the initial section. Lovely route.
Katie Keeley, Alex Bashford
Great route throughout, deserves 3 stars? Got freaked at the end section...
woomph --- totally ran out of steam on first trip of the season
|brian watson||15/Mar/09||Lead O/S|
|Tim W||15/Feb/09||Lead O/S||
Ben Merrifield, Dave Ripley
|Justin T||24/Jan/09||Lead dog|
sam cox, louis bosence
Chris Taylor and Edward Waters
|Martin Davies||27/Sep/08||Lead O/S||
|Jonathan Emett||26/Sep/08||Lead O/S|
Excellent fun. Had a few goes at getting off the ground before leading it clean.
pretty pumpy. plenty of good rests though. really enjoyable.
V goog route, hardest part for me was at the end of the crack at mid point! Will do it again!!!
|steve taylor||02/Aug/08||Lead rpt|
|Aston mountaineers||?/Jul/08||Lead O/S|
|Anthony Allsopp||08/Jun/08||Lead O/S|
|Somerset swede basher||07/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
George, Adam, Jim and Wysling.
Just got told to climb it; so I did, with no idea about any of it except the start was hard. Top bolt made harder with lichen.
|Graham Westbrook||?/Apr/08||Lead O/S|
|Ed Babs||25/Mar/08||Lead RP|
|Morgan Woods||22/Mar/08||Lead O/S||
Tough start but nice laybacking up the groove.
|Jake Shaw||??/2008||Lead β|
|trevor macalonan||28/Apr/07||Lead O/S|
|Different Steve||27/Aug/06||Lead dog||
What a route! - interest from bottom to top, tough though.
|chris j||21/Jun/06||Lead rpt||
|bigie bob||12/Apr/06||Lead O/S|
|chris sm||01/Apr/06||Lead O/S|
|Richard Horn||??/2006||Lead RP|
|michael burrows||06/Oct/05||Lead O/S|
Seconded Paul up this 4 years previous
|Rob Laird||?/May/05||Lead RP|
|Mark A Humphries||23/Apr/02||Lead RP||
|Southern Mark Smith||??/2000||-|
|Dave Musgrove||?/Jul/95||Lead O/S||
|Mark Kemball||23/Feb/95||Lead O/S|
Scott Titt, Tim Dunsby