Rockfax Description
An fantastic route that features a lot of varied and tough climbing. The start is a powerful boulder problem. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley, Barry Clarke 02/Oct/1996.
West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland sub 6b , Portland , Spanish crew 2018
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tru | 9 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Loose and hollow flake at mid height - marked with an X. The right side of the hold feels more secure but use with caution. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose and hollow flake at mid height - marked with an X. The right side of the hold feels more secure but use with caution. |
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Vince | 10 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Bouldery start. OK when you've worked out the sequence. But there is a hands free rest after that. Had to run my fingers up the groove in the middle section for the reachy bit, but then again I'm 5 foot nothing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bouldery start. OK when you've worked out the sequence. But there is a hands free rest after that. Had to run my fingers up the groove in the middle section for the reachy bit, but then again I'm 5 foot nothing. |
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Alun | 20 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Tricky hang/throw to start but things soon ease into a brilliant balancy route. One of the best 6s in the area. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tricky hang/throw to start but things soon ease into a brilliant balancy route. One of the best 6s in the area. |
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Mick B | 5 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Hard bouldery start, i`m 5`9 and it felt about english 6a. Then great sustained climbing. Top route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard bouldery start, i`m 5`9 and it felt about english 6a. Then great sustained climbing. Top route. |
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Wilbur | 9 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: Also meant to say that the new rockfax guide is a bit misguiding as it indicates that the lower-off is directly above the big roof in the photo and it's actually just to the left and not very high up of that roof. I could see the lower off to the left all the way up but all i could think as i approached the top was "that must be the LO to the adjacent route, i wonder how far the LO for this is above that roof". followed by fear fear fear and lack of commitment :o( | βeta? | |
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βeta: Also meant to say that the new rockfax guide is a bit misguiding as it indicates that the lower-off is directly above the big roof in the photo and it's actually just to the left and not very high up of that roof. I could see the lower off to the left all the way up but all i could think as i approached the top was "that must be the LO to the adjacent route, i wonder how far the LO for this is above that roof". followed by fear fear fear and lack of commitment :o( |
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Wilbur | 30 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: Blew the onsight on the move to the lower-off - bloomin pumpy! Fantastic route though - it's got a bit of everything. I didn't find it reachy at all and i'm 5'8". I thought the start was rock-hard at the grade though - very bouldery. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Blew the onsight on the move to the lower-off - bloomin pumpy! Fantastic route though - it's got a bit of everything. I didn't find it reachy at all and i'm 5'8". I thought the start was rock-hard at the grade though - very bouldery. |
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Jus | 31 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: You've gotta pull a bit harder on the start but there's plenty of good holds. Lovely balancy move to get in the groove. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: You've gotta pull a bit harder on the start but there's plenty of good holds. Lovely balancy move to get in the groove. |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Winspit)