Rockfax Description
An impressive route that needs crisp conditions and features some unusual moves to gain and climb the shallow groove. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 3.11.90 03/Nov/1990

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic UK F7s.

brian watson 31/Oct 2nd dnf
with Ed Babs
DrGav 01/Sep Lead dog

Post crux is pretty wired albeit scary! Crux is nails.

DrGav 30/Aug Lead dog

Just about managed the crux in two after switching hands at the start. Very extended to hit the crimp

with Wendy
philhaigh 29/Jun 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
philhaigh 25/Jun 2nd dog
with Ed Babs
Hidden 14/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jun Lead RP
lewiz 13/Jun Lead RP


with Beata
Hidden 13/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 30/May Lead RP
afrosam 24/May Lead dog
Hidden 16/May Lead dog
brian watson 04/May TR dog
with Ed Babs
Hidden 26/Apr TR dog
lewiz 19/Apr Lead dog

2015/04/19: Tired. Limited success LF low, LH slap to arete then try to get RH out for fridge hug. Alt: RF HH and high LH reach to crimp feels impossible. Try: Get RF high using lower right arete and good LH crimp.

Spillers 11/Apr Lead dnf

Worked, all moves done but fell moving off undercut on top groove on first attempt. Very sunny, holds got very soapy. For another day

with Ant Williams
innes 06/Apr Lead RP
with Ruth
Hidden 06/Apr Lead RP
lewiz 05/Apr Lead dog

4/5/15: Unable to figure out how to get established. Cheating to left foot on the big jug, right hand in the groove and left around the arete I climbed (relatively) easily to the top both attempts. 5/5/15: Watched a video of a guy using a right heel. Some progress but can't reach good crimp. Also tried another sequence with a left foot out. Both have promise but ripped a flapper on first try of the day. Account officially open.

Hidden 04/Apr Lead
JM 31/Jan Lead RP

Really nice feature. Annoyingly blew the onsight by z-clipping mid crux!

with Anna Reiners
Hidden 17/Jan Lead RP
Marti999 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
with Debbie
Graham Westbrook 04/Nov/14 Lead RP

5th go. Should have gone quicker but I was using a bad sequence! Went OK in the end.

with Gibbon
thomasmouse 05/Oct/14 Lead RP
with Camilla Barnard, Richard Hughes
Qisheng Xie 30/Aug/14 Lead RP

Note to self: easy starting movements leading up to first roof, heel hook to get over the edge followed by a double pinch, tip toe to RH pinch then ballet dance across the blank sheet.

Aaron.Clifford 17/Aug/14 Lead dog

Awesome moves, really long crux. One to come back for.

rjf106 16/Aug/14 Lead RP

Had to skip the clip along the arÍte.

with D. Angland
BenL 02/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Ryu
mop449 16/Jun/14 Lead dnf
3 Names 30/May/14 Lead dog
brices 26/May/14 Lead dog

Tried to OS got into second groove and spooned it by not seeing a hold gutted. Then to greasy and hot on second go.

with Llinos, Gav
ollie_e 25/May/14 Lead dog

Did it from the jug before the crux to the top clean, but for reason couldn't link it from the bottom. One to come back for.

LJC 18/May/14 TR dog

Got all the moves, need to link them next time.

with Phill, Little Ben, Tom
chrisscutt 11/May/14 Lead RP

Nice climbing, second red point

with chris, oly
sarpedon 09/May/14 TR dnf

Nice to know what impossible feels like.

DJ Nelson 15/Mar/14 Lead RP

First 7c. Took a while to figure out my beta, I think there are at least five ways of doing the crux. The send went smoothly in the end. Loved it.

with Micaela Langellotti
UnkArl 23/Feb/14 Lead dog
James_L88 21/Feb/14 TR dnf
lewiz 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf

2014 project. No clue.

with Kamil Winczek
Ged Desforges ??/2014 -

Superb climb, one of the best 7c's I've done in Britain I think. Long sustained crux section. Probably needs pretty good conditions, but not essential. Fairly soft but would be tough to onsight

Ged Desforges ??/2014 Lead RP

Excellent route. Short but sustained

Adam Booth 29/Dec/13 Lead RP
anguskille 29/Dec/13 Lead RP

tricky clip! a cold day but good send

Ed Booth 28/Dec/13 Lead RP

2nd go

jonleighton 01/Dec/13 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Nov/13 -
natalietanzer 25/Aug/13 Lead RP

3rd go

with marcus
Kevster 10/May/13 Lead dog
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead dog
3 Names 08/Dec/12 TR dog
Hidden 01/Dec/12 TR dog
Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR dog
Tangerine_Kingdom 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
with Witold
quiffhanger 05/Aug/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Would've been a hard on-sight so pretty pleased to get it so quick. Avoided much fridge hugging & skipped the hard clip for added excitement.

with Joe
PeterDawson 23/Jul/12 Lead RP
Adam Booth 23/Jun/12 TR RP

Account open!

Kevster 19/May/12 Lead dog
Kevster 15/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 13/May/12 TR dog
Kevster 13/May/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Apr/12 Lead RP
Perryman 25/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 TR dog
Ed Babs 22/Jan/12 Lead dog

This is turning into the greatest siege since the Trojan war.

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10/Jan/12 Lead RP

First 7c well phyched. Did it at the end of the day as it was getting dark. Climbed first go today using a slightly different sequence. Amazing!

with Steph
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Jan/12 Lead dog
tom russell ??/2012 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Dec/11 Lead RP
Marti999 12/Dec/11 Lead dog
Tophe 10/Dec/11 Lead RP

Such a fun sequence through the crux! If you've not tryed this climb, go do it, it's amazing!

tom106 02/Dec/11 Lead RP

2nd redpoint

with dan
Hidden 26/Nov/11 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 20/Nov/11 Lead dog

Did it with one rest. Next time maybe?

dale1968 14/Oct/11 -
with Tom
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
Toby Dunn 08/Oct/11 Lead

2nd go; hard to OS. Much more memorable, interesting climbing than many Portland routes.

with Jon Emmet
Hidden 07/Oct/11 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 02/Aug/11 Lead dog
Linc 02/Aug/11 Lead dog
Linc 30/Jul/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/11 TR dog
Linc 17/Jul/11 Lead dog
Dandan82 17/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Linc 26/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Linc 29/May/11 Lead dog
Dandan82 07/May/11 Lead RP

crisp conditions my ar$e, i nearly sent this in 25deg sun and finally ticked it while it's grimy and damp! Amazing route though, a real must-do

Linc ?/May/11 Lead dog
Harry Thorpe 14/Mar/11 TR dnf

Trying James's project, it's pretty hard!

Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Rosea
jgustafsson 22/Jan/11 Lead RP

7c, oh yeah baby!!! 2nd redpoint this trip, after a session or so previously... not that I'm qualified to say, but I can't imagine that this is particularly hard for the grade...

with Ivan
Hawkscry ??/2011 Lead RP
mark_wellin 26/Nov/10 Lead RP

Oh yes! Really cool route that everyone does wrong. 4rp and it went... I have spent more time doing want out!! unedited video for anyone wanting beta -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWyo1Mxw8DI

sam_cox 26/Nov/10 Lead RP

Great route, eliminated some moves on the crux. Felt solid on the Red point. Baking hot in the middle of winter!

Hidden 10/Oct/10 TR dog
Hidden 09/Oct/10 TR dog
i_a_coops 07/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Jacob
JPGR 29/Aug/10 Lead
jacobjacob 31/Jul/10 Lead RP

skipped the clip on the arete, epic runout, amazing climb.

Luke Dawson 30/May/10 Lead RP


trev_f 03/May/10 Lead RP
with Marti, Andy
marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead RP

awesome, unfinished business from many years ago

with huw
marcpontin ?/May/10 Lead dog
with huw
Luke d 04/Apr/10 Lead dog

Perfect route and quite sustained i thought will do when i get back from spain

billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Lee
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead dog
blaza1 ?/Mar/10 -

In a session

with andy schofield
mattcyp88 27/Feb/10 Lead dog

Dogged to the top twice and did all the moves okish(surprisingly).

with Jacob Cook
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead dog
hippo99 19/Feb/10 Lead RP
with rache
schof 30/Jan/10 Lead RP
with arron schofield
pezzerrr 24/Jan/10 Lead RP
Marti999 03/Jan/10 Lead dog
Marti999 27/Dec/09 Lead dog
dan gibson 06/May/09 Lead RP
with jacquie robinson
Seb1uk 19/Apr/09 Lead dog

awesome climb, 2nd last bolt was scary :)

with Scott Soithongsuk
Hidden 25/Mar/09 Lead RP
angusaussie 14/Feb/09 Lead RP
with John Hogan
feilx 10/Jan/09 Lead dog
with Tiff
feilx 09/Nov/08 Lead dog
with Crazy Tom
Richard Horn 10/Sep/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 06/May/08 Lead β

half flash ,half 0S. Have got beta only for first move of crux.

JPGR 04/Mar/08 Lead dog
with Daniel
Jake Shaw ??/2008 Lead dog
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/07 Lead RP
with Sion
Hidden 28/Jan/07 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jan/07 Lead RP
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
bigie bob 19/Aug/06 Lead RP
feeko ??/2006 -
Paz 12/Nov/05 Lead dog
with FM
Paz 27/Oct/05 Lead dog

>~ 6 attempts now.

with FM, AS
Adam Lincoln ??/2001 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chris_woodsy, JKinsella, _m.cox_, lawsy_boy1, huffy, RFWilkie, Hidden, nuggetcp, Oliver Tilbury, Aaron.Clifford, Hidden, joe1joe1joe2, Tangerine_Kingdom, Hidden, ashknot, Hidden, Hidden, feilx, Hidden, Leeds, mynameisjen, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Goonie, A Longleat Boulderer
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Votes cast 55
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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