Rockfax Description
Technical face moves based around a very thin crack. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker 16.4.90 16/Apr/1990

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, West Country Climbs, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a.

Alex Handley 21/Nov Lead RP

Sequencey but great moves

with Adam Shelton
Hidden 13/Sep -
BRoe 26/Aug Lead β
with Pimnalishous
Hidden 14/Jul Lead dog
lawsy_boy1 09/Jul Lead
dswansonlow 08/Jul Lead rpt
with Alex Banks
Laurence Everitt 25/Jun Lead RP

2nd RP. Nice sequence once you get it, took a lot of figuring out.

Dandan82 30/May Lead dog
dprctr 10/May Lead dog

Finally found a way over the overlap. Took a lot of effort.

with Sumee
Nick Russell 09/May Lead RP

Hard to onsight. Smooth once I'd tried the moves. Probably 7a+.

Bargate_Champ 05/May Lead RP
TonyB 03/May Lead
with Anni
RFWilkie 03/May Lead dog

Worked all the moves, then 2 tries top rope to link it but not quite got the top crux dialed.

leglesslizard 11/Apr Lead RP
MontyH 01/Apr TR dnf
with Brian
brian watson 01/Apr Lead RP
zakbentley 11/Feb TR O/S
Hidden 25/Jan Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jan Lead dog
Albachoss ??/2015 Lead RP
with Dougie
BenL ??/2015 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Oct/14 TR dog
paultaylor 12/Sep/14 Lead RP
with Matt Roberts
GrahamGiles 30/Aug/14 Lead dog

That 1st roof is brutally desperate! Followed by some serious techers and greeted with a wet flake >.< very cool moves though

with Renna Clifford
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
keithpeck 16/May/14 Lead RP
SandyJJS 12/Apr/14 Lead dog
DJ Nelson 16/Mar/14 Lead RP

2nd go

with Micaela Langellotti
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead dog
RadekNowak 22/Feb/14 Lead RP
Tommyads ??/2014 -
Hidden 29/Dec/13 TR dog
sarpedon 14/Dec/13 TR dog
LJC 05/Dec/13 Lead
jonleighton 01/Dec/13 Lead β
Hidden ?/Dec/13 -
samparsons 29/Nov/13 Lead RP
dprctr 03/Nov/13 Lead dog

Last route of the day, much fun. Went left towards ivy at the first crux rather than straight up. Upper moves are brilliant.

with Patrick
Luke Dawson 27/Aug/13 Lead β
PeterDawson 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
pymn nice but dim 19/Aug/13 Lead RP

My first 7th grade climb and first project. The result of around 8 worked sessions and a lot of effort. Amazing climb, jug hauling, bouldery slaps hard crimps and high feet. desperate upper crack section. Awesome

Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 24/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia
philhaigh 21/Jun/13 2nd RP
Graham Booth 13/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got all the individual moves, needed more time to lead

philhaigh 15/May/13 Lead dog
RD 05/May/13 Lead O/S
marcb 04/May/13 Lead dog

Got all the moves. Wanted to go for a RP but it started raining.

with Ed Ratcliffe
JCAshman 28/Mar/13 Lead O/S

first 7a onsight!

Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead dog
Adam_42 16/Feb/13 Lead RP

Tried it over the Summer. Came back and took a few goes to get it clean. First 7A!

with Beth Frugtniet
timharrison 04/Jan/13 TR dnf
salix 01/Jan/13 TR dnf

Foxed on top section, seepage didn't help but probably not to blame.

with Phil
trevor macalonan 01/Jan/13 Lead dog
Jobbo 09/Dec/12 Lead dog
Hidden 06/Dec/12 Lead dog
DorsetGareth 11/Nov/12 Lead RP

Great sequence.

with Chris S
matiamallia 30/Sep/12 Lead RP
mikeconway 23/Sep/12 Lead RP
lewiz 22/Sep/12 Lead RP
matiamallia 16/Sep/12 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
chiverstom 25/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Scott, Alice
Ramon Marin 18/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Send on the 2nd go after working the crux. Again, as per all other sandbags in the Cutting, this is never 7a, more like 7a+ at least.

Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead dog
al99 26/Jun/12 Lead RP

Made it second attempt having worked out the sequences.

with Jen Crook
Jonathan Emett 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt

1st go. glad to have got it done, didn't like it.

with oli
Jonathan Emett 10/Jun/12 Lead dnf

1 aborted attempt as it started to rain.

with ben
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 09/Jun/12 Lead dog

2 gos. worked out a rubbish sequence but it should work.

with siwan
John Mcshea 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 08/Jun/12 2nd dog
3 Names 15/May/12 Lead RP

First redpoint

with Nick
El3ctroFuzz 13/May/12 Lead RP

Fell off above the footledge on the onsight. 2nd go. F7a!

with Alex Chapman
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead dog
Daniel Heath 02/Apr/12 Lead dog

That move is very hard. The rest is steady with a cool head. I didn't have one.

natalietanzer 16/Mar/12 Lead dog

took too long workin out initial roofy bit.

with Dan Gibson
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead RP
matt perks ??/2012 -
innes ??/2012 Lead dog
Dandan82 24/Dec/11 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 05/Nov/11 Lead dnf
with toby
Toby Dunn 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
GarethHall 05/Nov/11 Lead RP
Jack_F 29/Oct/11 Lead RP

2nd Redpoint attempt after blowing the onsight going wrong handed through the roof!

Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Sep/11 Lead dog
patrickc 11/Sep/11 TR dnf
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
Ed morris 02/Sep/11 Lead RP
Haydn Jones 02/Sep/11 Lead RP

Fantastic move through the lip, once you work the sequence out, it doesn't feel to bad at all!

Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead dog
PowerPigtails 30/Aug/11 Lead RP

7a+ in the new Portland Guide

timharrison 25/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Davide Gaetta
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead dog
quiffhanger 21/Aug/11 Lead RP

Fluffed the first crux on the flash attempt despite having all the beta :( Second go. Beware the in-situ pigeon.

Hidden 16/Aug/11 Lead dog
sportsten 07/Aug/11 Lead β
with SwissMachine
Tomar 03/Jul/11 Lead RP

Good but no way 7a. 7a+ would seem fair in my view.

with Ross
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jun/11 Lead dnf
JPGR 25/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead O/S
chris sm 22/May/11 Lead dog

Quick play at the end of the day. Didn't try the RP but should be ok next time.Hard for F7a.

with Laurel Bowler
Owen W-G 22/May/11 Lead dnf

Fell off on first RP attempt trying to slap for the big hold by the final bolt. Nails crux at the top, but I'll be coming back to crush. Best left until after 2pm once in the shade.

with Max
Kevster 21/May/11 Lead RP
timharrison 15/May/11 Lead dnf
with Jo Chia
KDhruev 22/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden 13/Mar/11 TR dog
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
Wendy 12/Mar/11 Lead RP

Really good, technical route - once i'd worked out the bottom roof - hard for the short!

with Tom Ball
wi11 ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
with Marcus, Nat
Hidden 30/Jan/11 TR dnf
drysori 23/Jan/11 Lead RP

Toproped first. Should have bagged it first lead attempt, but got it third go. Had a bit of a 'mare on the last move when I couldn't remember what to do. Got engaged in the morning before climbing, that only took one go!

jgustafsson 23/Jan/11 Lead dog

Missed the onsight, and one attempt thereafter. Really enjoyed it, but I should have gritted my teeth a bit more...

with Gavin, Ivan
Hidden 09/Jan/11 TR dog
Hawkscry ??/2011 -
Hidden 17/Dec/10 Lead RP
Hidden 17/Dec/10 TR RP
Hidden 12/Dec/10 TR dog
Hidden 11/Dec/10 TR dog
brices 06/Nov/10 Lead RP
DafSWMC 18/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Nik G, Alys
gejones 18/Sep/10 Lead β
with DafSWMC
steven24584 11/Aug/10 Lead RP
jacobjacob 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

felt easy after hall of mirrors, well chuffed :)

Kevster 18/Jul/10 Lead
Leeds 24/Jun/10 Lead RP
Roberto 25/May/10 Lead RP
Ciro 20/Feb/10 Lead dog
w.pettet-smith 20/Dec/09 Lead RP

had a play on it in the summer but didn't do very well. first redpoint this time, with much gurning and grunting and maybe a little scream. well chuffed as i havn't got to climb much of late. nice technical moves in the middle, i nearly lost it when it got easy though. oh lordy. lovely december day.

with jo
Hidden 28/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jul/09 Lead dog
Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/09 2nd dnf
Oli 25/Jun/09 Lead RP

First go putting the draws in after failing yesterday.

with Roger
derico 24/Jun/09 Lead β

Very technical and sequency climb on side pulls and crimps.. not too powerful if you get the sequence right!

with Oli
nigel pearson 20/Jun/09 Lead RP


with Yoko
barni 18/Jun/09 Lead dog
with Northern
w.pettet-smith 13/Jun/09 Lead dog

tried four times and still failed! unstuck by the moves coming off the rest after the hardish pulls over the lip (not too bad really with high feet and a gaston) screamed a bit. quality route.

with any one who would belay me
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead RP
w.pettet-smith 01/Jun/09 Lead dog

found the hard low section ok, then got a bit stumped higher up.seems nicey technical.

thompson1000 ?/Jun/09 Lead
with Barni
Hidden ?/Jun/09 TR
Hidden ?/Jun/09 Lead dog
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead RP
vertigo 04/Apr/09 Lead RP

A nemesis vanquished!

schof 23/Mar/09 Lead RP
with harry massey
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 08/Mar/09 Lead rpt
Billg 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead dog
with billg
matt green(uni) ?/Feb/09 TR RP
Ed Babs 17/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Marti
Marti999 17/Jan/09 Lead rpt
mark_wellin ??/2009 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
sam_cox ?/Dec/08 Lead
Hidden 02/Nov/08 Lead RP
trev_f 28/Oct/08 Lead RP
with Jon
Ben Harper 25/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Karl Alvarez
Hidden 29/Jun/08 Lead RP
Somerset swede basher 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Wicks
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead dog
Matt Bennett 02/Mar/08 TR dog
Rob Kennard 01/Mar/08 -
with Rich White, Harry Massey
John Southworth ??/2008 -
Boy ??/2008 -
Rik Dawes ??/2008 Lead RP
nawface ??/2008 -
Lloyders 17/Dec/07 Lead dog
dmoir 26/Nov/07 Lead RP
with Dan B and Heather R
Scott N ?/Sep/07 Lead RP
DrGav 12/Aug/07 Lead RP

Very sequency. Felt to be at my limit! Amazing face climb.

with Adam
Martin Krasnansky 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
catt 23/Jun/07 Lead RP

A really great route with a bit of everything. Fun moves, hard moves, delicate moves. Had to fight for it towards the top but just made it all the more rewarding.

Morgan Woods 23/Jun/07 Lead RP

Finally!!....done after about 6 attempts across 3 days....hardish for 7a.

with Wilbur and Scottish Iain
Wilbur 23/Jun/07 Lead RP

Got it 5th attempt (over 3 days). Was spurred on by Iain and Morgs having done it clean just before me...., and half a can of red bull!

with Iain
DrGav 07/Apr/07 Lead dog

Two hard sectionn, the second took quite a few goes to work out. Excellently fingery.

with Chris
Hidden 28/Jan/07 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jan/07 Lead β
Hidden ??/2007 -
feilx 11/Nov/06 Lead RP
Richard Horn 05/Nov/06 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Aug/06 Lead RP
bigie bob 23/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/06 Lead RP
chris sm 01/Apr/06 TR dog
eddieclimb ?/Feb/06 Lead RP
with Dan Savory, Jason Parker
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
dannyboy83 ??/2006 Lead O/S
lukea 17/Nov/05 TR O/S
with dan
lx ?/May/05 Lead
with james
Hidden 02/Jan/05 -
pezzerrr ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/1999 Lead RP

Still think it should be 7a+. Too sustained for 7a.

with James Dunlop, Jimbo, John Pullin
Mark Kemball 11/Apr/98 Lead RP
with Jason Lloyd
Hidden ??/1998 TR dog
buzby78 04/Apr/97 Lead O/S
sadams 22/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Team Midlands
goi.ashmore 18/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
josh Bamsey, Hidden, Ragingpossum, alexjz, Hidden, KDhruev, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, virgil, Owen W-G, Siderunner, ian caton, AndyJBooth, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, onlytovey
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Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set