Rockfax Description
Fine, crimpy wall climbing on the headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 5.2.94 05/Feb/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Dean177 01/May Lead RP

2nd go.

with Ana_B
Misha 30/Apr Lead RP
with Ian W
Matti Puckridge 30/Apr Lead RP

Climbs a lot better than it looks.

Hidden 30/Apr Lead rpt
paultaylor 28/Apr Lead RP
with Jimbo
Shane Willis 24/Apr Lead β

Don't know if this is a retro flash or a red point. Did it years ago on a top rope and fell off, went first time today on a lead. Missed at least half the holds on the way up and didn't see them until I was coming down, made it powerful and pumpy. Satisfying to get to the top though.

Martin Bagshaw 09/Apr Lead dog

Had 3 - 4 goes on it, nearly made it. Frustrating. One to add to the cleanup list.

with Tom Hudson
ASchwirtz 19/Mar Lead RP

went third attempt

Hidden 19/Mar Lead RP
brian watson 18/Feb Lead RP
TonyB 15/Feb Lead RP

2nd go

Hidden 15/Feb Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Feb Lead RP
tobydunford 23/Jan Lead RP
with Kirsty Kerr
elfka 15/Jan 2nd dog
with Ben Corbey
Dizz 27/Dec/15 TR dog
with Andy m
brian watson 23/Dec/15 Lead dog
with Pete Frost
Albachoss 19/Dec/15 Lead RP
with Andrea
BenL 12/Dec/15 Lead RP
with Alex Banks, Jake, Angus Webb
AlexD 21/Nov/15 2nd dog
with Andy Morris, Brian
brian watson 21/Nov/15 TR dog
Hidden 15/Nov/15 Lead dog
Josh Hadley 24/Oct/15 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Aug/15 Lead dog
Daniel Heath 12/Aug/15 Lead dog

Failed to get into the big undercut

dswansonlow 08/Jul/15 Lead RP
with Alex Banks
lewiz 13/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Beata
afrosam 31/May/15 Lead RP
Trisha Murphy 31/May/15 2nd
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead dog
lewiz 23/May/15 Lead dog
Pete Dangerous 10/May/15 Lead RP
with Artur
Bargate_Champ 02/May/15 Lead RP
artmal ?/May/15 Lead RP
with Beata
AlexD 11/Apr/15 2nd dog
with Nat
lewiz 05/Apr/15 Lead rpt
RFWilkie 04/Apr/15 Lead RP

2nd go.

mdjb 21/Mar/15 -
Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead O/S
nimajneb ??/2015 Lead β
Nick Russell 29/Nov/14 Lead RP

Good moves, sequencey. Rested after undercut on first attempt, took ages to work out moves then felt easy second go.

jacobjlloyd 09/Nov/14 Lead RP

Three goes. Power endurance! Loved the team send

with Ryu, Roger Kirke
mikespooner 09/Nov/14 Lead dog
with Ryu Fattah, Roger Kirke, Jake Lloyd
RKirke 09/Nov/14 Lead RP
paultaylor 12/Sep/14 Lead dog

sequence sorted, get it next time

with Matt Roberts
John Mcshea 07/Sep/14 Lead RP
Nick Clement 11/Aug/14 Lead RP
with mandy clement
Hidden 05/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ian Bell 08/Jun/14 TR dog

Tough, just about managed moves in isolation

with Tania T
LucasHarazin 08/Jun/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 17/May/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Rob Gates, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Mel Dodge, Gem Minihan, Natalie Haigh
philhaigh 11/May/14 Lead dog
anthony henry 11/May/14 Lead RP

Tried this a few times with the wrong beta. Sent after new beta. Basically from the undercut roll over with left hand to rail avoiding obvious gaston

philhaigh 09/May/14 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Shamina Kapadia
elyben 04/May/14 Lead dnf
hervenuttall ?/May/14 Lead O/S
with Marcus & The Ellis Brigham Crew
RadekNowak 12/Apr/14 Lead RP
Henry.Todman 12/Apr/14 Lead β
HAJ Francis ?/Apr/14 Lead RP

Pretty chuffed to get this second go, the top sequence is very fingery but really good climbing

Hidden 17/Mar/14 Lead RP
Luxulyan 09/Mar/14 Lead RP
with Tim
tim.fairhall 09/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Richard
tim.fairhall 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Richard
tim.fairhall 08/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Richard
Dandan82 22/Feb/14 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jan/14 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2014 Lead dog
Tommyads ??/2014 -
Hidden 01/Dec/13 Lead RP
jonleighton 01/Dec/13 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Dec/13 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Nov/13 TR RP
DorsetGareth 10/Nov/13 Lead RP

Second go.

Nick Clement 27/Oct/13 Lead RP
with mandy clement
PeterDawson 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
marcduhig 24/Aug/13 Lead RP

Second go. Had to fight on the cruz pretty hard.

with Wayne
philhaigh 08/Jul/13 2nd dog
with Mike Gubbins
ASchwirtz 02/Jun/13 Lead dog

Last climb of the day. Need to go back for this one.

richardashe 02/Jun/13 2nd
quiffhanger 27/May/13 Lead RP

2nd go. Annoyed 2 drop the on-sight - go too pumped figuring out the sequence on the upper wall.

with Kate
Hidden 27/May/13 Lead dog
innes 24/May/13 Lead RP

Good moves. Hard to onsight.

with Ruth
RD 05/May/13 Lead O/S
marcb 04/May/13 Lead dog
with Ed Ratcliffe
Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
Hidden 21/Apr/13 TR dnf
tonevert 02/Feb/13 2nd
eddy-on-the-rocks 08/Dec/12 Lead rpt

4th go.

paultaylor 08/Dec/12 Lead dog

Great route will be back to get it in a 1er. Finger E!

Hidden 01/Dec/12 TR dog
lewiz 30/Sep/12 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead dog
gibsond 30/Sep/12 TR dog

Can't see how to reach the undercut before the crux. If I can workout this move this should be doable.

Jobbo 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf
philhaigh 11/Sep/12 2nd dog
Linc 19/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Jul/12 TR dog
JCAshman 10/Jul/12 Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 05/Jul/12 Lead RP

3rd go. 7th overall.

with Paul
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Jul/12 Lead RP

Great fun, felt a lot easier than it did last year. Good fun

Jonathan Emett 30/Jun/12 Lead dog

3/4 gos, very close.

with Paul
Pippa 24/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead RP
mountain_jay 24/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 09/Jun/12 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Jun/12 TR dog
givemetea 26/May/12 TR dog

Three goes. Almost got it in one go - hit the right-hand gaston over the overlap but didn't quite latch it ... rope got in the way.

Hidden 26/May/12 Lead rpt
Ali 26/May/12 Lead RP

Worked moves once on toprope, toproped clean (accidentally!) then led. Nice, short crux section.

pelvoux 20/May/12 TR dnf

Could not hold on the undercling, maybe next time

with Mumtaz
Kevster 15/May/12 Lead rpt
Chappy 13/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead dnf
Kevster 13/May/12 Lead RP

Easy when it goes.

El3ctroFuzz 12/May/12 Lead RP

Fell off the crux on onsight. Got 2nd go. Quite easy for the grade.

with Alex Chapman
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/12 TR dnf
Brian H 11/Mar/12 Lead RP
givemetea 03/Mar/12 TR dog

argh! .... this doesn't feel much easier than when I tried it a couple of years ago. Three hard bits for me - going off the nasty crimp into the undercut and crossing through to the rail (can do this now but it feel pretty bloody hard) - big move from the rail with rubbish feet to the high gaston for the right hand (argh I can only do this move after resting on the rope and even then not reliably) - getting left foot high and moving leftwards to good side pull (this move seems fine now)

Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jan/12 TR
Kevster 08/Jan/12 Lead dog
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead rpt
matt perks ??/2012 -
Hidden 31/Dec/11 TR dog
Hidden 31/Dec/11 2nd dog
Billg 31/Dec/11 2nd
with Ollie
Hidden 18/Dec/11 Lead RP
jgustafsson 03/Dec/11 Lead RP

Very good sequence that's not too bad once you know how. Fell off after undercling on onsight, did 2nd go after trying the moves a few times.

with Jen
tom106 27/Nov/11 Lead rpt
with nathan
Brian H 27/Nov/11 Lead dnf
Sophie Nunn 26/Nov/11 Lead dnf
with Toby
Hidden 29/Oct/11 Lead dog
nigel pearson 01/Oct/11 Lead RP

great moves. It took me a while to work out the sequence. I wasn't expecting to get it today so it was great when it happened

with Yoko
J.Wells 21/Aug/11 Lead RP

Humid as the tropics - 2nd go

bustermartin 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt

tried it in 2009 but only just come back and tried it felt easy but alos more polished and chalky than when i last came

Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
Ed Babs 17/Jul/11 Lead RP
with Mike Hawkins, Rob Kennard
Hidden 16/Jul/11 Lead
Sami Mandeel 10/Jul/11 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10/Jul/11 Lead dog
Richard Hall 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Route is ok, not great and pretty much spot on for 7a+, not hard as voting here suggests. The route was rather ruined by having tick marks on every crux hold however, i dont know why people cant brush them off after they are finished.

with Anais
Sami Mandeel 26/Jun/11 Lead dog

So. Damned. Close. Next time, next time...

with Si
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
givemetea 26/Mar/11 TR dog

An improvement on my attempt last year. I can now get into the undercut, then onto the crimps and do the long move up to the side pull. I'm still struggling to bring my left foot up high enough so I can do the final move of the crux sequence.

with Sonya Crowe
GarethHall 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
davidliu 13/Mar/11 Lead RP
adrian perera 13/Mar/11 2nd
tedj234 ?/Mar/11 Lead RP
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

awesome, had tick marks so easy to follow onsight.

with Rosea
Hidden 27/Feb/11 Lead RP
Wendy 27/Feb/11 Lead RP

second go

with Tom Ball
Tomar 20/Feb/11 Lead RP

Great technical moves!! Got it on my 3rd attempt. Fully trusted Kerstin's great belaying skills (her first time belaying on rock).

with Kerstin
Hidden 12/Feb/11 TR dnf
dswansonlow 12/Feb/11 Lead dog
Hawkscry ??/2011 Lead O/S
MarkRyder 09/Dec/10 Lead RP
with Lee
jamespilgrim 13/Nov/10 TR dnf

Fine up to the crux - really nice moves but no energy to finish it

with Mark
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead
JPGR 29/Aug/10 Lead

WARNING - the last bolt snapped a karabinner!! But..your only likely to fall on it if a hold breaks at the top..........Otherwise really enjoyable route, every move seemed to put me in the wrong position, but it all works if you push on!

jacobjlloyd 29/Jul/10 Lead dog

The undercut move hurt my wrist. Beautiful flowing crimpy crux, but over too quickly. Looks like people often go left onto jugs at the end...it's better to do the big deadpoint move direct, and harder.

with Ivan
tom106 25/Jul/10 Lead RP
with tom smart, shane, harry
Hidden 21/Jul/10 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 18/Jul/10 Lead dog
tom106 18/Jul/10 Lead dog

second to last climb - will not forget leading it and setting up a top rope for ivan...ha

with ivan
3 Names 26/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead β
Luke Dawson 30/May/10 Lead O/S
brices 16/May/10 Lead RP

nice route

Pete Scott 25/Apr/10 Lead RP
Leeds 17/Apr/10 Lead RP
lukea 10/Apr/10 Lead RP
with gary
garywong 08/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out the sequence after the undercling.

billb ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Lee
Hidden 27/Mar/10 TR dog
givemetea 27/Mar/10 TR dog
Hidden 27/Feb/10 TR dnf
Hidden 14/Feb/10 TR dog
pezzerrr 14/Feb/10 Lead RP
funsized 31/Jan/10 Lead dog

2 rests at crux bolts. Definately returning for the tick.

with Dougie
dswansonlow 31/Jan/10 Lead dog
with Johnny Pearson
Hidden 17/Jan/10 TR dog
Jane Weir ??/2010 -
Linc ??/2010 Lead dog
dswansonlow 31/Oct/09 TR
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead RP
Ciro 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt
felixthelion 03/May/09 Lead RP

Fantastic route, nice moves on the headwall. Almost got this onsight, foot popped off getting the last gaston before easier moves at the top. Got back on and did it first RP attempt

with Liz
Ciro 03/May/09 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
schof 19/Aug/08 Lead RP
with joel perry
trev_f 01/Aug/08 Lead RP
with Rob
dannyboy83 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Pysho Andy, Joel
goi.ashmore 24/Apr/08 Lead RP
with John Marsland
_m.cox_ ?/Mar/08 Lead RP
John Southworth ??/2008 -
Boy ??/2008 -
Docent 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with pudel
Martin Krasnansky 01/Sep/07 Lead RP

greasy day:(

Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
feilx 11/Nov/06 Lead RP
with Bern
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Aug/06 Lead O/S
bigie bob 22/Jul/06 Lead RP
Richard Horn 09/Jul/06 Lead RP
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
steve taylor 12/Nov/05 Lead dog

Felt tough 10 years after I first red-pointed it.

Billg ??/2003 Lead β
Hidden 04/May/02 -
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dnf

My nemesis. Can do all the moves, just don't have the stamina to always stick the crux (which for me is hitting the high undercut off the poor crimps after the massive rest). Top section's fine.

with Jimbo, John Pullin
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
buzby78 04/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/96 Lead RP
Hidden 16/Apr/95 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Matthew Davies, Hidden, CarlWH, jonsey1995, Hidden, Neil_M_L, lawsy_boy1, John_Beesley, drifterjoe, WilliamD, FL1PD4N, 5210Hill, Hidden, Pete Dangerous, Rich2002, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, mloskot, Hidden, Hidden, Aeneas, Owen W-G, jamespilgrim, Hidden, Hidden, celoisa, Morgan Woods
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set