Modern Nightmare** 7a
[Emerging from the non-rest on Modern Nightmare, 3 kb]19m. The big corner has a hard start and a superb, pumpy finish. High in the grade. The ivy needs stripping back from time to time. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 29.4.94 29/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

Photo: Emerging from the non-rest on Modern Nightmare © Brian H
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This climb is in 96 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Very hard and commting top move.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 21/Sep/14

ASchwirtz - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14 with Richard Ashe

good stamina climb
richardashe - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14

Fall just before the top after one practice lead. Need to come back for it
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 15/Jun/14 with Richard Ashe

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Jan/14

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/13

lewiz - Lead RP - 11/May/13 with Pete Gagie

RD - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13

Jobbo - Lead RP - 21/Apr/13 with Alex

lewiz - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Feb/13

Kopinski - Lead RP - Feb/13

Excellent weather. Wore a thermal, t shirt, fleece, hoodie and downy in the car and sweated loads. Then arrived at the crag and climbed in a t shirt.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/12 with Anthony

3rd go! happy with this one...
andrew hammond - Lead RP - 02/Sep/12

Tried once months ago, got it clean first go today, I think I got a bit lucky guessing for holds at the top, it's pretty draining
Dandan82 - Lead RP - 21/Jul/12

tedj234 - Lead - 08/Jul/12 with Kate

3rd go. so good!
Jonathan Emett - Lead RP - 23/Jun/12 with Paul

2 gos. forgot how to do the roof 2nd go due to being pumped stupid.
Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/12 with oli

put the clips up on the redpoint
3 Names - Lead RP - 15/May/12 with Nick

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 05/May/12 with Ivan M

3 Names - Lead dog - 18/Mar/12

Saved it for the onsight for ages, made it through the boulder problem start (with an accidental foot dab on the bolt) but got distracted by the chalk at the top and got total forearm meltdown trying to finish up Fighting Torque. Wouldn't have got it anyway, those moves are hard to read. Got it by skin of teeth 2nd go, not pretty. Brilliant route - it's really very steep at the top isn't it?
Quiddity - Lead RP - 18/Mar/12 with Mac and Ally, Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Mar/12

John Mcshea - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with tom rainbow

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Nov/11

Hidden - TR RP - 27/Nov/11

Brian H - Lead RP - 27/Nov/11 with Kafoozalem

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn

Bern - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Richard White

dale1968 - 14/Oct/11 with Tom

TommityP - Lead dog - 14/Oct/11

Second go. Fell at lower off first go... Lame!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead RP - 17/Aug/11 with Si Lincoln

Linc - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with sam.sam.sam.ferguson

timharrison - Lead RP - 11/Aug/11 with Matt Carwardine

timharrison - Lead dog - 16/Jul/11 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/11

Great climb. Having eventually worked out the moves on the roofs didn't have the strength, stamina or guts for the very last move.
garywong - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/11 with Gareth Hall, Patrick Goodwin

GarethHall - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11 with Patrick Goodwin, Gary Wong

Hidden - TR dog - 30/Jan/11

Don't know if this is hard 7a, but very pleased with first onsight of the grade at Portland
jgustafsson - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Gavin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11

PeterDawson - Lead β - 2011

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 13/Nov/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - TR dog - 13/Nov/10

cool route bit sandy in the middle would clean up with more ascents though easy 7a
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10

very nice
Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 23/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Oct/10

fell off the start before trying the 7c variation, good route hard to find the holds at the top. second go
schof - Lead RP - 06/Oct/10 with steve howe

Hard for 7a, reminded me of a crap kilnsey route. Poor rock in places, but the big roof finish makes it worthwhile. After reading the other comments on the finish, i used an obvious sloping shoulder press to get stood on lip (felt like the crux).
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Laura Perry

Cleanly led all the way to the top then took a brilliant, massive lob from the top! Fun climb!
Wendy - Lead dog - 16/May/10 with Mike Coles

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with mike waters

Hidden - 03/Apr/10

sam_cox - Lead β - 13/Mar/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10

reet hard to onsight i reckon. at the top, where are the holds?! to the right as it happens. very enjoyable, although the bouldery start is a bit uncouth, i like easy starts.heel hook for the last clip. sorted.
w.pettet-smith - Lead RP - 31/Jan/10

struggled at the roof after i was given beta for the jug on the right.. (which doesnt exist!)
El3ctroFuzz - Lead dog - 30/Jan/10 with Elaine Budden

very easy, it might have helped watching the other 2 do it first... does grabbing the lower off count
mark_wellin - Lead β - 2010

Jane Weir - 2010

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/09 with sam read

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Jun/09

Chubbard - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/09 with J Robinson

Billg - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/09 with Sean Cullens

SeanyC - Lead dog - Feb/09 with billg

Hidden - Lead RP - 2009

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Ben Harper

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Jun/08

Excellent route with 3 distinct hard sections. Skipped a clip below the first roof.
Morgan Woods - Lead β - 23/Mar/08 with David S

Dave Searle - Lead RP - 23/Mar/08 with jim

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 01/Mar/08

feilx - Lead RP - 02/Feb/08 with Heather

Boy - 2008

Martin Krasnansky - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jul/06

Ram MkiV - Lead β - 19/Jul/06 with Alex Mason

bigie bob - Lead RP - 15/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/06

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Richard White - 2000

Shit myself silly on the roof. Bailed out straight away, idiot.
Ben Thorne - Lead dnf - 2000 with Jimbo

Hidden - Lead dnf - 1998

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/97

Mike Owen - 01/Jun/95 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/95 with jon

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
josh Bamsey, Ragingpossum, alexjz, JackMac, RFWilkie, Quiddity, Goonie, J/mie

Total votes cast 68
hard 7a+0 of 35
7a+0 of 35
easy 7a+5 of 35
hard 7a21 of 35
7a8 of 35
easy 7a1 of 35
hard 6c+0 of 35
6c+0 of 35
easy 6c+0 of 35
3 Stars5 of 33
2 Stars24 of 33
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Style of ascent

Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP