Modern Nightmare** 7a
[Modern Nightmare(7a), 3 kb]19m.

Rockfax Description
The big corner has a hard start and a superb, pumpy finish. High in the grade. The ivy needs stripping back from time to time. © ROCKFAX

FA. Pete Oxley 29.4.94 29/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

Photo: Modern Nightmare(7a) © Kafoozalem
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 116 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15

philhaigh - Lead RP - 25/Jun/15 with Ed Babs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/15

Linc - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/15 with louis

afrosam - Lead dog - 31/May/15

Lots of faffing near the start
dprctr - Lead dnf - 10/May/15 with Sumee

philhaigh - Lead dog - 04/May/15 with Ed Babs, Gem Minihan

brian watson - TR dog - 04/May/15 with Phil

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/May/15

Impossible start for me much better climbing there after.
Dibdawg - Lead dog - 19/Apr/15 with Dean Merchant

innes - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Ruth

Great climb first ever 7A outdoors.
Solly K.D. - Lead - 07/Mar/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jan/15

Tough start, hard to read. The roof may be intimidating but definitely not the crux.
Nick Russell - Lead β - 11/Jan/15 with Helen

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Jan/15

Hidden - Lead β - 11/Jan/15

Beefy Bert - Lead RP - 2015

AlexD - 2nd dog - 20/Dec/14 with Jane Weir, Marti

Very hard and commiting top move.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 21/Sep/14

ASchwirtz - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14 with Richard Ashe

good stamina climb
richardashe - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14

Fall just before the top after one practice lead. Need to come back for it
ASchwirtz - Lead dog - 15/Jun/14 with Richard Ashe

Hidden - Lead RP - 02/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Jan/14

jonleighton - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/13

lewiz - Lead RP - 11/May/13 with Pete Gagie

RD - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

drcorbasisgod - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/13

Jobbo - Lead RP - 21/Apr/13 with Alex

lewiz - Lead dnf - 31/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 06/Feb/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Feb/13

Kopinski - Lead RP - Feb/13

Excellent weather. Wore a thermal, t shirt, fleece, hoodie and downy in the car and sweated loads. Then arrived at the crag and climbed in a t shirt.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead rpt - 01/Dec/12 with Anthony

3rd go! happy with this one...
andrew hammond - Lead RP - 02/Sep/12

Tried once months ago, got it clean first go today, I think I got a bit lucky guessing for holds at the top, it's pretty draining
Dandan82 - Lead RP - 21/Jul/12

tedj234 - Lead - 08/Jul/12 with Kate

3rd go. so good!
Jonathan Emett - Lead RP - 23/Jun/12 with Paul

2 gos. forgot how to do the roof 2nd go due to being pumped stupid.
Jonathan Emett - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/12 with oli

put the clips up on the redpoint
3 Names - Lead RP - 15/May/12 with Nick

MarkRyder - Lead RP - 05/May/12 with Ivan M

3 Names - Lead dog - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Mar/12

John Mcshea - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with tom rainbow

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Nov/11

Hidden - TR RP - 27/Nov/11

Brian H - Lead RP - 27/Nov/11 with Kafoozalem

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11 with Sophie Nunn

Bern - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Richard White

dale1968 - 14/Oct/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Oct/11

Second go. Fell at lower off first go... Lame!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead RP - 17/Aug/11 with Si Lincoln

Linc - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with sam.sam.sam.ferguson

timharrison - Lead RP - 11/Aug/11 with Matt Carwardine

timharrison - Lead dog - 16/Jul/11 with Iain Moodie

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/11

Great climb. Having eventually worked out the moves on the roofs didn't have the strength, stamina or guts for the very last move.
garywong - Lead dnf - 26/Mar/11 with Gareth Hall, Patrick Goodwin

GarethHall - Lead dog - 26/Mar/11 with Patrick Goodwin, Gary Wong

Hidden - TR dog - 30/Jan/11

Don't know if this is hard 7a, but very pleased with first onsight of the grade at Portland
jgustafsson - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Gavin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/11

PeterDawson - Lead β - 2011

Ed Babs - Lead RP - 13/Nov/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - TR dog - 13/Nov/10

cool route bit sandy in the middle would clean up with more ascents though easy 7a
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10

very nice
Dan_Carroll - Lead dog - 23/Oct/10

Caspian Johnson - Lead dog - 23/Oct/10 with Dan carrol

fell off the start before trying the 7c variation, good route hard to find the holds at the top. second go
schof - Lead RP - 06/Oct/10 with steve howe

Hard for 7a, reminded me of a crap kilnsey route. Poor rock in places, but the big roof finish makes it worthwhile. After reading the other comments on the finish, i used an obvious sloping shoulder press to get stood on lip (felt like the crux).
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/10 with Laura Perry

Cleanly led all the way to the top then took a brilliant, massive lob from the top! Fun climb!
Wendy - Lead dog - 16/May/10 with Mike Coles

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 16/May/10 with mike waters

Hidden - 03/Apr/10

sam_cox - Lead β - 13/Mar/10

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10

reet hard to onsight i reckon. at the top, where are the holds?! to the right as it happens. very enjoyable, although the bouldery start is a bit uncouth, i like easy starts.heel hook for the last clip. sorted.
w.pettet-smith - Lead RP - 31/Jan/10

struggled at the roof after i was given beta for the jug on the right.. (which doesnt exist!)
El3ctroFuzz - Lead dog - 30/Jan/10 with Elaine Budden

very easy, it might have helped watching the other 2 do it first... does grabbing the lower off count
mark_wellin - Lead β - 2010

Jane Weir - 2010

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/09 with sam read

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Jun/09

Chubbard - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/09 with J Robinson

Billg - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/09 with Sean Cullens

SeanyC - Lead dog - Feb/09 with billg

Hidden - Lead RP - 2009

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08 with Ben Harper

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead dog - 18/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Jun/08

Excellent route with 3 distinct hard sections. Skipped a clip below the first roof.
Morgan Woods - Lead β - 23/Mar/08 with David S

Dave Searle - Lead RP - 23/Mar/08 with jim

Richard Horn - Lead RP - 01/Mar/08

feilx - Lead RP - 02/Feb/08 with Heather

Boy - 2008

Martin Krasnansky - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jul/06

Ram MkiV - Lead β - 19/Jul/06 with Alex Mason

bigie bob - Lead RP - 15/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead - 18/Apr/06

feeko - 2006

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

Hidden - 2000

Shit myself silly on the roof. Bailed out straight away, idiot.
Ben Thorne - Lead dnf - 2000 with Jimbo

Hidden - Lead dnf - 1998

buzby78 - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/97

Mike Owen - 01/Jun/95 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/95

Roget - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/95 with jon

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
drifterjoe, Hawkgirl, josh Bamsey, Ragingpossum, alexjz, RFWilkie, Goonie, J/mie

Total votes cast 82
hard 7a+0 of 43
7a+1 of 43
easy 7a+7 of 43
hard 7a25 of 43
7a9 of 43
easy 7a1 of 43
hard 6c+0 of 43
6c+0 of 43
easy 6c+0 of 43
3 Stars7 of 39
2 Stars27 of 39
1 Star5 of 39
0 Stars0 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP