Rockfax Description
The big corner has a hard start and a superb, pumpy finish. High in the grade. The ivy needs stripping back from time to time. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29.4.94 29/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, Classic Portland 7as (2* +).

Bernie L 15/Nov Lead RP

1st RP

cdpuk 15/Nov Lead dog

Got the starting sequence first time on first lead, then backed off the top after a few attempts. Got the top on another go after a rest. Could probably do it clean next time.

Hidden 26/Sep Lead rpt
Brown 26/Sep Lead
with Lilifa
Hidden 19/Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 08/Aug Lead
Hidden 09/Jul Lead O/S
philhaigh 25/Jun Lead RP
with Ed Babs
Hidden 13/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun 2nd dog
Linc 06/Jun Lead rpt
with louis
afrosam 31/May Lead dog
dprctr 10/May Lead dnf

Lots of faffing near the start

with Sumee
philhaigh 04/May Lead dog
brian watson 04/May TR dog
with Phil
Hidden 02/May Lead RP
Dibdawg 19/Apr Lead dog

Impossible start for me much better climbing there after.

innes 06/Apr Lead O/S
with Ruth
Solly K.D. 07/Mar Lead

Great climb first ever 7A outdoors.

Hidden 17/Jan Lead O/S
Nick Russell 11/Jan Lead β

Tough start, hard to read. The roof may be intimidating but definitely not the crux.

with Helen
Hidden 11/Jan Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jan Lead β
Beefy Bert ??/2015 Lead RP
AlexD 20/Dec/14 2nd dog
RFWilkie 21/Sep/14 Lead dog

Very hard and commiting top move.

ASchwirtz 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
richardashe 29/Jun/14 Lead RP

good stamina climb

ASchwirtz 15/Jun/14 Lead dog

Fall just before the top after one practice lead. Need to come back for it

Hidden 02/Feb/14 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Feb/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jan/14 Lead RP
jonleighton 07/Dec/13 Lead O/S
lewiz 11/May/13 Lead RP
RD 05/May/13 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Jobbo 21/Apr/13 Lead RP
with Alex
lewiz 31/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Feb/13 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead dog
Kopinski ?/Feb/13 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 01/Dec/12 Lead rpt

Excellent weather. Wore a thermal, t shirt, fleece, hoodie and downy in the car and sweated loads. Then arrived at the crag and climbed in a t shirt.

with Anthony
andrew hammond 02/Sep/12 Lead RP

3rd go! happy with this one...

Dandan82 21/Jul/12 Lead RP

Tried once months ago, got it clean first go today, I think I got a bit lucky guessing for holds at the top, it's pretty draining

tedj234 08/Jul/12 Lead
with Kate
Jonathan Emett 23/Jun/12 Lead RP

3rd go. so good!

with Paul
Jonathan Emett 20/Jun/12 Lead rpt

2 gos. forgot how to do the roof 2nd go due to being pumped stupid.

with oli
3 Names 15/May/12 Lead RP

put the clips up on the redpoint

with Nick
MarkRyder 05/May/12 Lead RP
with Ivan M
3 Names 18/Mar/12 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead dog
John Mcshea 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 17/Dec/11 Lead RP
Hidden 10/Dec/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Nov/11 TR RP
Brian H 27/Nov/11 Lead RP
Toby Dunn 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Bern 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 14/Oct/11 -
with Tom
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 17/Aug/11 Lead RP

Second go. Fell at lower off first go... Lame!

Linc 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
timharrison 11/Aug/11 Lead RP
with Matt Carwardine
timharrison 16/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
garywong 26/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Great climb. Having eventually worked out the moves on the roofs didn't have the strength, stamina or guts for the very last move.

GarethHall 26/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jan/11 TR dog
jgustafsson 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Don't know if this is hard 7a, but very pleased with first onsight of the grade at Portland

with Gavin
Hidden 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S
PeterDawson ??/2011 Lead β
Ed Babs 13/Nov/10 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Nov/10 TR dog
Luke Dawson 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S

cool route bit sandy in the middle would clean up with more ascents though easy 7a

Dan_Carroll 23/Oct/10 Lead dog

very nice

Caspian Johnson 23/Oct/10 Lead dog
schof 06/Oct/10 Lead RP

fell off the start before trying the 7c variation, good route hard to find the holds at the top. second go

with steve howe
Alex Mason 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Hard for 7a, reminded me of a crap kilnsey route. Poor rock in places, but the big roof finish makes it worthwhile. After reading the other comments on the finish, i used an obvious sloping shoulder press to get stood on lip (felt like the crux).

with Laura Perry
Wendy 16/May/10 Lead dog

Cleanly led all the way to the top then took a brilliant, massive lob from the top! Fun climb!

with Mike Coles
dominic lee 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with mike waters
Hidden 03/Apr/10 -
sam_cox 13/Mar/10 Lead β
pezzerrr 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith 31/Jan/10 Lead RP

reet hard to onsight i reckon. at the top, where are the holds?! to the right as it happens. very enjoyable, although the bouldery start is a bit uncouth, i like easy starts.heel hook for the last clip. sorted.

El3ctroFuzz 30/Jan/10 Lead dog

struggled at the roof after i was given beta for the jug on the right.. (which doesnt exist!)

with Elaine Budden
mark_wellin ??/2010 Lead β

very easy, it might have helped watching the other 2 do it first... does grabbing the lower off count

Jane Weir ??/2010 -
dan gibson 08/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with sam read
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead RP
Chubbard 08/Mar/09 Lead dnf


Billg 15/Feb/09 Lead O/S
SeanyC ?/Feb/09 Lead dog
with billg
Hidden ??/2009 Lead RP
dannyboy83 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Jul/08 Lead dog
Hidden 01/Jun/08 Lead RP
Morgan Woods 23/Mar/08 Lead β

Excellent route with 3 distinct hard sections. Skipped a clip below the first roof.

with David S
Dave Searle 23/Mar/08 Lead RP
with jim
Richard Horn 01/Mar/08 Lead RP
feilx 02/Feb/08 Lead RP
with Heather
Boy ??/2008 -
Martin Krasnansky 02/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 19/Jul/06 Lead dog
Ram MkiV 19/Jul/06 Lead β
with Alex Mason
bigie bob 15/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Apr/06 Lead
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dnf

Shit myself silly on the roof. Bailed out straight away, idiot.

with Jimbo
Hidden ??/1998 Lead dnf
buzby78 03/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 01/Jun/95 -
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 17/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Roget 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
drifterjoe, Hawkgirl, josh Bamsey, Ragingpossum, alexjz, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Goonie, Hidden, J/mie
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set