Rockfax Description
A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves. Possibly 7c+. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14.4.94 14/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Dandan82 18/Jun Lead dog

Back to this with new beta going direct on the arete and not off to the right hand flowstone edge. Feels do-able, just need to put a little more time in.

Beefy Bert 03/Jun Lead RP
Hidden 29/May Lead dog
rubben 19/May Lead RP

Absolutely brilliant route. Looks choosy, but climbs magnificently. Lots of droppable moves and every bit an 8a. I did an 8b in Turkey easier than this. Definitely worth the climb and certainly one of the best routes I've done in Dorset. 5th or 6th redpoint

Ramon Marin 15/May Lead RP

Boom! The fight is over. 100% 8a in my opinion. It took me longer than any of the other 8a's I've done.

with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 14/May Lead dog

One move from glory. The siege continues. It's getting me strong though, did my first E6 off the back of this.

with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 08/May Lead dog

Account opened. Worked it all weekend and finally have a workable beta. Not quite sure people say it's soft, it's the hardest 8a I've tried so far. If this is 7c+ then Cider soak is 7b+ ;-) Great moves and well psyched

with viki harvey
PeterDawson 17/Apr Lead RP

Awesome route! First Boulder is squeezing then to finish I ended up pressing.

i_a_coops 16/Apr Lead RP
with conor
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 16/Feb Lead rpt

A small foothold has come off making the crux moves in the groove slightly harder. Nice moves and a great route.

with Xav
JM 12/Dec/15 Lead RP

Just creeps in at 8a I think.

with Anna Reiners
BenL 01/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Aaron
Hidden 01/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead dog
Ed Babs 30/Apr/15 TR dog
with Marcus O
La Mont 21/Mar/15 Lead RP
with James Doc
Hidden 14/Feb/15 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jan/15 Lead dog
lewiz 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Oct/14 TR dog
Hidden 07/Sep/14 TR dog
3 Names 15/Mar/14 Lead RP


Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Jan/14 Lead RP

First outdoor session of 2014! 2nd redpoint attempt. Felt really hard when I first went up but quickly figured a sequence and then it went shortly after with freezing cold fingers! I saw this in a magazine when I first started climbing and have wanted to do it since. Not the best route I've done though and a bit too technical for my liking. Happy to do it in a session and a great way to start 2014!

with Nick, Charlotte Warner
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead dog
marcduhig 24/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Ok thought I was good at working out routes. Maybe not!

with Wayne
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 02/Jun/13 Lead RP

First go today after getting the draws in. Stoked!

with Steph
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/May/13 Lead dog

Fell one move away from the jug... gutted. Thats the 8th redpoint attempt. Maybe next time.

with Steph
Hidden 02/Mar/13 Lead dog
dannyboy83 02/Feb/13 Lead RP

2nd go, unexpectedly quick as it felt quite tough on the o/s. 7c+

with Ben Corbey
pezzerrr 26/Jan/13 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Dec/12 Lead dog

5-11-12 lead through the crux, then fell off. One hard move to work out 11-11-12 remembering the sequence; dogged: 21-7-12; 13-7-12; 8-7-12; 1-7-12; 3-4-12

Linc 28/Jul/12 Lead RP
Linc 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
Dandan82 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jul/12 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Jul/12 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Apr/12 Lead dog
Linc 03/Apr/12 Lead dog
Marti999 03/Apr/12 TR dog
mark_wellin 26/Feb/12 Lead dog

2 years later... got it in three, all the moves done... should link it next time.

Hidden 28/Jan/12 TR dog
jfreeman 13/Aug/11 Lead RP

Second go.

simonr 13/Aug/11 Lead dog

Not so bad with Jon's beta - next time definitely. Soft?

Hawkscry 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
bustermartin 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

so close to doing this, the undercut bit feels the hardest bit for me! need to stop trying hard routes when i dont have much time left!!!

dan gibson 17/Apr/11 Lead RP
with kyle rance
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead RP
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Amazing and hard, hardest 8a so far.

with Rosea
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Dandan82 03/Jul/10 Lead dog
sam_cox 20/Jun/10 Lead RP

Second go, First Red point. Great route, thought I would be scared of the run out but did not think about it when on the route. Thanks Schof for the Beta and motivation.

with Andy
schof 10/May/10 Lead RP

did it fast! im taking 8a and i dont care

with alex blaza
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Feb/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 19/Oct/07 Lead RP
bigie bob 10/Feb/07 Lead RP
The Jazz Butcher ?/Dec/04 Lead RP

Awesome line and fantastic climbing. A difficult route to define as it requires both stamina and a fair bit of power for the crux.

with Joff Cook
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alex Norman, RFWilkie, _m.cox_, huffy, Hidden, Hidden, lewiz, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, bustermartin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Pete Scott, Goonie, A Longleat Boulderer, Hidden
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent