Rockfax Description
A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves. Possibly 7c+. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 14.4.94 14/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
BenL 01/Oct Lead RP
Hidden 01/Aug Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jul Lead dog
Hidden 14/Jun Lead dog
Ed Babs 30/Apr TR dog
Marcus O
Marcus 09/Apr -

Seem to be working this in tandem with Freaky Ralph. Now can do the route on a top rope but can't yet do it clipping at the same time. More refinements necessary I think!

La Mont 21/Mar Lead RP
James Doc
Hidden 14/Feb Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jan Lead dog
lewiz 30/Nov/14 Lead dog
Hidden 18/Oct/14 TR dog
Hidden 07/Sep/14 TR dog
3 Names 15/Mar/14 Lead RP


Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Jan/14 Lead RP

First outdoor session of 2014! 2nd redpoint attempt. Felt really hard when I first went up but quickly figured a sequence and then it went shortly after with freezing cold fingers! I saw this in a magazine when I first started climbing and have wanted to do it since. Not the best route I've done though and a bit too technical for my liking. Happy to do it in a session and a great way to start 2014!

Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead dog
marcduhig 24/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Ok thought I was good at working out routes. Maybe not!

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 02/Jun/13 Lead RP

First go today after getting the draws in. Stoked!

sam.sam.sam.ferguson 27/May/13 Lead dog

Fell one move away from the jug... gutted. Thats the 8th redpoint attempt. Maybe next time.

Hidden 02/Mar/13 Lead dog
dannyboy83 02/Feb/13 Lead RP

2nd go, unexpectedly quick as it felt quite tough on the o/s. 7c+

Ben Corbey
pezzerrr 26/Jan/13 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 07/Dec/12 Lead dog

5-11-12 lead through the crux, then fell off. One hard move to work out 11-11-12 remembering the sequence; dogged: 21-7-12; 13-7-12; 8-7-12; 1-7-12; 3-4-12

Linc 28/Jul/12 Lead RP
Linc 21/Jul/12 2nd dog
Dandan82 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 13/Jul/12 Lead dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 08/Jul/12 TR dog
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 01/Jul/12 TR dog
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 08/Jun/12 Lead RP
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead RP
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 03/Apr/12 Lead dog
Linc 03/Apr/12 Lead dog
Marti999 03/Apr/12 TR dog
mark_wellin 26/Feb/12 Lead dog

2 years later... got it in three, all the moves done... should link it next time.

Hidden 28/Jan/12 TR dog
jfreeman 13/Aug/11 Lead RP

Second go.

simonr 13/Aug/11 Lead dog

Not so bad with Jon's beta - next time definitely. Soft?

Hawkscry 26/Jul/11 Lead RP
bustermartin 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

so close to doing this, the undercut bit feels the hardest bit for me! need to stop trying hard routes when i dont have much time left!!!

dan gibson 17/Apr/11 Lead RP
kyle rance
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead RP
Spacetourist ?/Mar/11 Lead RP

Amazing and hard, hardest 8a so far.

Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead dnf
Dandan82 03/Jul/10 Lead dog
sam_cox 20/Jun/10 Lead RP

Second go, First Red point. Great route, thought I would be scared of the run out but did not think about it when on the route. Thanks Schof for the Beta and motivation.

schof 10/May/10 Lead RP

did it fast! im taking 8a and i dont care

alex blaza
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Feb/08 Lead RP
Martin Krasnansky 19/Oct/07 Lead RP
bigie bob 10/Feb/07 Lead RP
Southern Mark Smith ?/Dec/04 Lead RP

Awesome line and fantastic climbing. A difficult route to define as it requires both stamina and a fair bit of power for the crux.

Joff Cook
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set