Dorset > The Cuttings >
 
Fighting Torque** 8a

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[Fighting Torque, 8a, 2 kb]18m. A ferocious test-piece with unlikely moves. Possibly 7c+. © ROCKFAX
FA. Pete Oxley 14.4.94 14/Apr/1994

Ticklists: The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, A Guide for Progress in Dorset, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List.

Photo: Fighting Torque, 8a © Brian H
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 45 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

Hidden - TR dog - 07/Sep/14

finally!
3 Names - Lead RP - 15/Mar/14 with Sumee Holloway

3 Names - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/14 with Hazel Rowson, Sumee Holloway

3 Names - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/14 with Sumee Holloway

First outdoor session of 2014! 2nd redpoint attempt. Felt really hard when I first went up but quickly figured a sequence and then it went shortly after with freezing cold fingers! I saw this in a magazine when I first started climbing and have wanted to do it since. Not the best route I've done though and a bit too technical for my liking. Happy to do it in a session and a great way to start 2014!
Ellis Butler-Barker - Lead RP - 19/Jan/14 with Nick, Charlotte Warner

3 Names - Lead dog - 30/Nov/13 with Nick

3 Names - Lead dog - 29/Nov/13 with Nick

3 Names - Lead dnf - 17/Nov/13 with Hazel Rowson

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/Nov/13

3 Names - Lead dnf - 16/Nov/13 with Hazel Rowson

Ok thought I was good at working out routes. Maybe not!
marcduhig - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/13 with Wayne

First go today after getting the draws in. Stoked!
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13 with Steph

Fell one move away from the jug... gutted. Thats the 8th redpoint attempt. Maybe next time.
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dog - 27/May/13 with Steph

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Mar/13

2nd go, unexpectedly quick as it felt quite tough on the o/s. 7c+
dannyboy83 - Lead RP - 02/Feb/13 with Ben Corbey

pezzerrr - Lead RP - 26/Jan/13

5-11-12 lead through the crux, then fell off. One hard move to work out 11-11-12 remembering the sequence; dogged: 21-7-12; 13-7-12; 8-7-12; 1-7-12; 3-4-12
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dog - 07/Dec/12 with Rob Gates, Steph, Sami Mandeel, Marti Hallett, Si Lincoln, Mark Welling

Linc - Lead RP - 28/Jul/12 with Carnie Lisa, Dan verge

Linc - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/12 with Carnie Lisa, Dan verge

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dog - 13/Jul/12 with Si Lincoln

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - TR dog - 08/Jul/12 with Sami Mandeel, Si Lincoln

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - TR dog - 01/Jul/12 with Steph, Sami Mandeel, Si Lincoln

First 8a? 12 days of effort, 3rd RP of the day, finally ticked with a severe weather warning out, rain and some STRONG wind, first experience of mythical sticky damp. Epic. Thanks for the psyche to everyone involved. (02,03,06/05 - 10 RPs total over 3 days. gradually getting closer - half a move at a time! Struggling to manage more than 2 good goes in a day. 26-27/05 - 3 more RPs, got to high point on the crux twice more. Started the flick over to the good crimp (move 7.5) on best go. 15/05 - 3 goes after getting clips in. Got some crucial links - now done in 2, big psychological step. First redpoint go high point: move 7 on crux. 12-13/05 - About 7 goes. Got the moves/clip in the undercuts sorted and a new, steadier sequence for the upper crux, thanks Iain! Linked from the rest to the clip above the crux in 2 overlapping sections. Psyched. 05-06/05 - about 7 goes figuring out moves. Done all the moves and making progress but still some way to go. 29/01 - Did all the moves bar the move onto the blunt arete/into twin undercuts.
Quiddity - Lead RP - 08/Jun/12 with Iain M, Ali, Mac and Ally, GiveMeTea, Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/May/12

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead dog - 03/Apr/12 with Marti Hallett, Si Lincoln

Linc - Lead dog - 03/Apr/12 with sam.sam.sam.ferguson

Marti999 - TR dog - 03/Apr/12 with Sam Ferguson

2 years later... got it in three, all the moves done... should link it next time.
mark_wellin - Lead dog - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - TR dog - 28/Jan/12

Second go.
jfreeman - Lead RP - 13/Aug/11 with Simon Robinson

Not so bad with Jon's beta - next time definitely. Soft?
simonr - Lead dog - 13/Aug/11 with Jon Freeman

Hawkscry - Lead RP - 26/Jul/11

so close to doing this, the undercut bit feels the hardest bit for me! need to stop trying hard routes when i dont have much time left!!!
bustermartin - Lead dog - 24/Jul/11

dan gibson - Lead RP - 17/Apr/11 with kyle rance

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Apr/11

Amazing and hard, hardest 8a so far.
Spacetourist - Lead RP - Mar/11 with Rosea

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/10

Second go, First Red point. Great route, thought I would be scared of the run out but did not think about it when on the route. Thanks Schof for the Beta and motivation.
sam_cox - Lead RP - 20/Jun/10 with Andy

did it fast! im taking 8a and i dont care
schof - Lead RP - 10/May/10 with alex blaza

Hidden - Lead RP - 16/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Feb/08

Martin Krasnansky - Lead RP - 19/Oct/07

bigie bob - Lead RP - 10/Feb/07

Awesome line and fantastic climbing. A difficult route to define as it requires both stamina and a fair bit of power for the crux.
Richard White - Lead RP - Dec/04 with Joff Cook

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Quiddity, Hidden, Hidden, bustermartin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Pete Scott, Goonie, A Longleat Boulderer, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 62
hard 8a+0 of 35
8a+0 of 35
easy 8a+0 of 35
hard 8a4 of 35
8a23 of 35
easy 8a1 of 35
hard 7c+7 of 35
7c+0 of 35
easy 7c+0 of 35
3 Stars7 of 27
2 Stars17 of 27
1 Star3 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Lead39 of 45 (86.7%)
Followed1 of 45 (2.2%)
Toproped5 of 45 (11.1%)

clean RP21 of 45 (46.7%)
dogged18 of 45 (40.0%)
dnf6 of 45 (13.3%)