|500m, 15 pitches. |
A difficult modern route that tackles the steep wall and roofs just to the left of Comici-Dimai. It is not quite as good as its neighbours but provides a good alternative if you are seeking to escape the crowds. The rock is exceptional for the area and the climbing is consistently enjoyable, even on the easier pitches.
The route is semi-bolted on the harder pitches but with some substantial run-outs between bolts. A small rack is therefore advised, particularly for the finishing pitches that have little to no fixed gear. The route drys slowly after rain and should only be climbed after a period of good weather. Sport grades are given for the bolted pitches, whilst the less-protected pitches are given UIAA grades.
Start a few metres to the left of Comici-Dimai, below the two consecutive corners.
1) VI, 50m. Climb the first corner before continuing direct into the second continuation corner.
2) VII- or 6b, 40m. Climb the vertical wall above.
3) VII- or 6b+, 35m. Pull through a yellow roof and move left before climbing direct up a steep vertical wall.
4) VII+ or 6c+, 40m. Continue up the wall above, with technical and sustained climbing, including an obligatory two-finger pocket move. Go left around one overhang then pull direct and right through the second.
5) VI+ or 6a+, 20m. Move left following the bolts to a good stance.
6) VIII+ or 7a+, 35m. Climb diagonally right then make an exposed and strenuous short traverse to the right on small footholds. Continue direct then move to the left of a small roof to belay.
7) VIII or 7a, 35m. Continue with more strenuous climbing to the left then back right, before cutting back left through a series of roofs.
8) V+, 20m. Continue climbing rightwards, past easier but unprotected climbing, to reach a good ledge
9) VI-, 30m. Follow the bolts direct then continue diagonally left with natural gear to reach a comfortable stance. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
Modern bolt and peg route to the left of Via Comici. F7a+ Crux. Sustained in the lower half. The upper wall is sparsely protected and loose so many choose to abseil off at half height or finish up the final Comici corner pitches.
K. Astner, K. Brugger, 1998