Rockfax Description
The deep gap in the ledge crossed by the awkward move is capped by a short hanging slab, start below this. Step up onto the short hanging slab and move up into a massive niche. Climb the chimney above via awkward moves past the chockstones to finish in a cliff-top crevasse. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Swanage Green Spots.

unicycleboy 17/May TR O/S

Greasy, happy I wasn't leading

Hidden 04/May Solo
jayyaj 01/May Lead dnf

Did as a relaxing last climb of the day. Ended up bailing on it! Seemed hard for an HVD.

Hidden 01/May Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr -
Alex 74 30/Apr Lead
with John
bazthomas 23/Apr 2nd O/S

Awesome lead by Georgia !

with Georgia
Georgia Barnett 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Baz
AndrewHeaton 17/Apr Lead O/S
daniel heaton 17/Apr 2nd
with Dad
naylers 16/Apr 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr Solo
GDS 02/Apr Lead
with rob
Bob M 16/Mar -
with Nick Foot, Ket
Hidden 06/Mar Solo
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
viv sherry ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
mikehenesy 20/Sep/15 2nd β

The kid done well!

with martin kendrik
scree 19/Sep/15 -
chancer 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S


with Stuart
musgravet 04/Sep/15 2nd O/S
chris cockbain 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/15 2nd O/S
BarrySW19 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Jon
SenzuBean 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Barry
Hidden 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S
andycash 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S
BurnerOfBiggerThings 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/15 2nd
alexporter 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ian d f 17/Jul/15 TR O/S
with shunt
Buccaneerbilly 09/Jul/15 Lead

Climbed this instead of first corner as it was as greasy as a scammel back axle!

with Daz Lunn
GDS 06/Jul/15 Lead
with mike p
Hidden 28/Jun/15 2nd
mky77 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Buccaneerbilly 11/Jun/15 2nd
with Daz Lunn
Hidden 27/May/15 2nd
Hidden 27/May/15 Lead
helehan 24/May/15 Lead dnf

Got to base of chimney and couldn't see a way up, rock was greasy and little sign of protection above. Moved right to ledge and finished up Bird's Nest.

climbing son 24/May/15 Lead
ejellard 19/Apr/15 Lead
cas smerdon 16/Apr/15 2nd
with Mark S
joe.wahab 14/Apr/15 TR O/S
with Terry
JDG2428 05/Apr/15 2nd
with simon p
powelli 05/Apr/15 Lead
with Jon G
ian.ross.bnc ?/Apr/15 Lead
alexbarry 07/Mar/15 Lead dnf

Pitched the gap at the base of the climb as my partner was a beginner. Ended up bailing a few moves from the top as there was no way he was going to be able to follow. very stiff grading I thought.

Hidden 31/Jan/15 2nd O/S
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Have lead and soloed this climb since all 3 times cant remember date or partner.

with unknown
jeb3496 ??/2015 -
Aaron.D 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
with Rob Owen
Hidden 29/Nov/14 2nd
timorme 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Orme
Matt_Hardy 02/Oct/14 Lead
with Josh Lee
Lewis201 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd β
Hidden 19/Sep/14 Lead
JenDurden 13/Sep/14 Lead dnf
with JoePrem
JenDurden 13/Sep/14 2nd
with JoePrem
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
elfka 17/Jul/14 2nd
with Hugo Gibson
pdamann 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with M Fielker
Tom Gregory 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jenny Page
ChrisPaines 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
meltdown34 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
GDS 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with mike
michaelp 18/May/14 2nd O/S
MontyH 30/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian and Paul
brian watson 30/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost, Paul Milton
treg 24/Apr/14 2nd

Quite stiff for the grade. First trad a Swanage.

with Bird
MontyH 08/Mar/14 Lead
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
harry_lewis ??/2014 2nd
with Jed
jedster1111 ??/2014 Lead
Echna 08/Dec/13 Solo O/S

Roped solo up the abseil rope with a prussic. Went off route left and right onto the S and VS. Never going to forget the climbing rope on top of the cliff again...

with Rich
arandall 01/Dec/13 2nd O/S
omaskrey 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Aimee Louise 01/Dec/13 2nd
thomaspomfrett 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Pretty grim

with Kirsty Marsden
Aimee Louise 30/Nov/13 Lead
Hidden 08/Oct/13 2nd O/S
mikehenesy 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Willy
Buccaneerbilly 05/Oct/13 2nd
chubbyclimber 21/Sep/13 Lead

Horrible, dirtly, greasy yuck.

Hidden 05/Sep/13 Solo rpt
tev 28/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Paul, Jill
Willbur 02/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Greasy climb even though it was a dry day.

with James Bridger
robertcollier 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Lost nerve and had to come down. Rock was greasy from sea mist

with Emily Collier
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
robertcollier 02/Jun/13 2nd
with Emily Collier
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
mikehenesy 01/Jun/13 Lead
with tcs
jonnyblindsign 31/May/13 Lead O/S
rushy11111918 26/May/13 Lead

First lead fall (slipped off and was held by two micronuts).

with Ralph
MarkCunnington 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Becky Chadwick, Arul Umapathy
ChrisUK 04/May/13 2nd O/S
katemurphy_@hotmail 04/May/13 Lead
Hidden 01/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/13 TR O/S
philmcf ?/May/13 Lead O/S
MontyH 27/Apr/13 Lead
with Kate, Brian, Lee Lander
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
Steve954 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Easy but nice

with Steve, Richard, Andy, Rich
PawelP 20/Apr/13 Lead RP
FrJ 20/Apr/13 Lead
with kj kajla
cdpuk 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead
Jonners 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
TommyC 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Awkward Chimney moves! Take some small nuts.

with Jon
callaghanjoe 02/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
johnl 15/Nov/12 2nd rpt
with Andy Dunford
Hidden 23/Oct/12 Lead O/S
runwildjohn 06/Oct/12 Lead
Alice_Horton 06/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/12 Lead O/S
alexporter 26/Aug/12 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd
bpmclimb 13/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Rained off halfway up Skinhead, so escaped up this route.

with Clare
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Solo rpt
rustyfishhook 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Not fucking funny! HVD my ass, wont be bothering with that route again.

Trippinjester 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Geoffers 29/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Lauren, Tim
Headjamm 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

First lead with support from Tim using a loose top rope

with Geoff
ElBarto 28/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Wildstyle 28/Jul/12 2nd
Rustyjas 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Setting up Belays and lead training for RLT

with Mike Henesey
Liam Ingram 20/Jul/12 Lead O/S
catrin289 20/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Sophiewhitter 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Sam Warby
Hidden 08/Jul/12 Lead
Sam Warby 15/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Steve954 26/May/12 2nd rpt


with Richard, Andy, Rich
Bob M 25/May/12 2nd
pippa_g 22/May/12 Lead O/S

Much better than it looks, nice moves and well protected

Hidden 22/May/12 2nd
Scotty2690 21/May/12 2nd
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd O/S
robblowen 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with Munch
munch88 19/May/12 2nd β
with rob
Laura Parker 13/May/12 2nd

Good lead by Babybear - even if he was a bit Shakin Stevens in a few places!

Babybear 12/May/12 Lead

loved this.. sang all the way up. happy days

Hidden 06/May/12 2nd
Big Rik 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Holmen, Lisa Brand
claireheenan 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Theantoff 06/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/May/12 2nd β
Hidden 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
da_cox 17/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Richard Overitt
LukeyG 12/Mar/12 Lead
Pegleg 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Paul Jackson
Hidden 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Oliver Hopper 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
aj_white 11/Feb/12 2nd

Certainly more challenging than the grade suggests

Ian JL ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead dog
sammycolon 06/Nov/11 Lead
DigitalSteak 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Andrew23 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Dominic Arnold
popov86 31/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
marcb 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Nevil 20/Aug/11 2nd
JezzaCat ?/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Vincent
tev 31/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Chris
Hinchrn 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Very nice easy climb. Not grate for placing gear

benren 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Tom, Kate Bolton
mikehenesy 30/Jul/11 2nd rpt

Other stuff busy so sent Kate up this leading her train of umperlumpers. All had a good time and ascended in good style.

with Ben with the tats, Tom Hinchcliffe aka Tom M., Kate
runwildjohn 30/Jul/11 2nd

Alice led

Alice_Horton 30/Jul/11 Lead
JezzaCat ?/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Nevil
Graham Westbrook 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
FrJ 04/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Rich K 01/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Wayne Cheung
gnat 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Headjamm 10/May/11 2nd O/S
with Geoff
Geoffers 09/May/11 Lead O/S
with Lauren
runwildjohn 01/May/11 Lead
with Nora Holford, Dave Clark
jasoncash 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Amazing day with 3 friends

with Charlie O'Brien
Jayne Jackson 14/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Charlie Evans 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
sarpedon 09/Apr/11 Solo O/S

Had the guidebook in my mouth.

Ciderslider 28/Mar/11 2nd O/S
ciderspider 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S

First HVD lead

DanMc 10/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Too wet and was getting dark. Had to back off and collect gear the next day by ab'ing.

Hidden 10/Mar/11 2nd dnf
Ralphus 20/Feb/11 2nd O/S
UnkArl 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
UnkArl 20/Feb/11 Lead β


with Jenny, Debbie
Debs 20/Feb/11 2nd
with Karl
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
nikinko 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with liam
risby 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
gibsond 02/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Very greasy and wet today.

Monkey_Alan 12/Sep/10 2nd
with Max, Karensa Lawrie
bradholmes 04/Sep/10 2nd
gibsond 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
tev 30/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Darrell
ill_bill 29/Aug/10 Lead
Danh89 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gjh 25/Jul/10 Lead RP
Seth.J 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Ben
FrJ 23/Jul/10 2nd
with Tim Hunting
VLogan 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Very Dirty

jonnyridleylogan ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 Lead
andycash 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with charlie o'brian
cas smerdon 13/Jun/10 2nd

lead halfway and had to back off

with Mark S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 Lead
ElBarto 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
rd20 12/Jun/10 2nd
with Hannes
cbonner 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Stuart
Rich K 05/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Wayne Cheung
j4kub 29/May/10 Lead
with claire gibson
kingey 01/May/10 Lead
rustaldo 29/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd O/S
climbtim 21/Apr/10 Lead
mikehenesy 15/Apr/10 Lead
with Kate
KateBolton 15/Apr/10 2nd
cas smerdon 13/Apr/10 2nd
with Pete Finklaire
Hidden 04/Apr/10 2nd rpt
gjh 04/Apr/10 2nd β
martin one 04/Apr/10 Lead
with pete
Monkey_Alan 31/Jan/10 2nd
greylag ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
alaster tonge ??/2010 Lead O/S
tev 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark J, Des
Indy Nile 26/Sep/09 2nd rpt

Thomas Led

with Mark James, Thomas Vaughan
uncontrollable 05/Sep/09 Solo O/S
tbs105 ?/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
francois 22/Aug/09 2nd
with Chris, Lorna
Hedfa Hites 22/Jul/09 2nd O/S

A good climb... made difficult by damp conditions

Indy Nile 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S

wild weather made it pretty greasy, but nice route

Laura89 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Dave
nick hawkins 05/Jul/09 Lead β
Ben Sidsaph 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Stu
daviesp2 25/Apr/09 Lead
MontyH 23/Apr/09 Lead
with Paul Milton
size9hex ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Bruce Tandy
Monkey_Alan 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Steve
critchlg 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Perfect day out. Used only a 19mtr rope.

with Martin
dj rivum 15/Mar/09 -
with critchlg
dj rivum 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with critchlg
MontyH 07/Mar/09 Lead
with brian and Pete
JezzaCat ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Varied & enjoyable crack/corner climb.

with Steve
Bern 15/Feb/09 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
John30587 ??/2009 -
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
sdht ??/2009 -
Andy Peak 1 ??/2009 Lead
with James Bradley
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
ElBarto ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Colin Setterfield
trev_f 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Ed
Ed Babs 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Trevor
lostinmidlands ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with mikeP
Bokonon 17/Aug/08 Lead
with Dave & Nev
404.mac 26/Jul/08 Lead
nick hawkins 21/Jul/08 2nd
with samir
samir 21/Jul/08 Lead
doyle12 12/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Tristian
jamie ward 20/May/08 2nd O/S
with Martyn Eales
tobydunford 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 26/Apr/08 2nd β
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
jamie ward 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Nathan Sunley-smith
Hidden ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd
canis cibo 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
aged_ape ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Alex B
MarkRyder 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Lee
Steve954 14/Jul/07 2nd rpt

Good warm up. Make sure you stay left to go over the chockstone

Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Claire S-J ?/Jul/07 Lead
tebs 08/Jun/07 2nd
with Mike
jonathannewth 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Chris W
Hidden 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Steve954 28/Apr/07 2nd O/S
RachaelB 21/Apr/07 Lead
with Nic Fleming
freelancer_85 15/Apr/07 Lead dnf
with Megan and Steve
simoncov 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Not the nice easy warm-up I was looking for

with LJ
starfish 07/Apr/07 Lead rpt

warmup/first trad of the year

with ST
aphyx 17/Feb/07 TR O/S
with Tim, Ralph, Vicki, Nicki
eldre070 03/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Paul Rigg
flatcap 02/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Not too difficult, but I had a hard time placing protection. Despite a sunny day, it was a bit damp and slippy inside (but still climbable).

with Taz
The Jazz Butcher ??/2007 Lead O/S
Lloyders ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
djking1983 12/Nov/06 Lead
Bram 12/Nov/06 2nd
MontyH 11/Nov/06 Lead rpt

I was poor, Lee climbed it in good style.

with Lee Lander
Hidden 11/Nov/06 2nd
Raggar ?/Nov/06 2nd

covered in wd40

with Ian M
Hidden 22/Jun/06 Lead O/S
mikehenesy ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
broc 28/May/06 2nd rpt
with John
JDSwain 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Candlin
Outdoorfun37 10/May/06 Lead
with Spitz
Jonny M 09/Apr/06 2nd O/S
GiveHerHelen 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S
broc 04/Mar/06 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden ?/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Paul-Michael 15/Oct/05 Lead O/S


with Dan
chris murnin 20/Aug/05 Lead
thompson1000 10/Jul/05 Lead
Hidden 06/Feb/05 Lead O/S
leonjones ??/2005 Lead
jonberry791 ??/2005 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 14/Nov/04 Lead

Easily protected.

swhite 08/Aug/04 TR
with David Chadwick
Hidden ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Zoomer 31/May/04 Lead
with Mac MacDonald
timharrison 30/Apr/04 2nd
chrissloan84 ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Fatclimber ??/2004 -
with Nigel Cook
Marq 28/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with Rich Cole
Hedley 19/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with Rick
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Solo
Rob84 ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Paul Bunney
furry 27/Aug/02 2nd
with Phil B
VS4b ??/2002 Lead
MontyH 10/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Paul Milton
mark4344 21/May/01 Lead O/S
with dave tourell
andybenham ??/2001 -
FrankW 17/Dec/00 Lead rpt
with Joe
Adrian Daniels 27/Oct/00 Lead
with Bill Marsh, John Parrott
Jacob Ram 19/Aug/00 Lead
with elisa shub
Alaric 08/Jul/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/00 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
FrankW 14/Nov/99 Lead rpt
with Simon Rogers
MontyH ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with rob guppy
Bob M 20/Jun/99 -
Gareth 17/Jun/99 Lead rpt
with Graeme
FrankW 25/May/99 Lead rpt
with Joe
Hidden 02/Apr/99 2nd
Rob Oram 20/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Tom Asbridge & John Hardy
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
sixties 29/Aug/98 Lead
with hrd
timreynolds 04/Aug/98 2nd
with Paul Bastiaiens
Jim Brooke 15/Feb/98 2nd O/S
with Luke Gilbert
Gareth 06/Jun/97 2nd O/S
with Andrew
nacnud 15/Mar/97 2nd
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
andyfeds 05/Apr/96 2nd
with Weeksie
tracyclimber 17/Feb/96 Lead

Slippery, hard for VD (grade when I climbed it)

kp64zl ?/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/95 Lead O/S
five ?/Feb/95 Lead O/S
Dringo ??/1995 -
colin milton 17/Sep/94 2nd
with eric milton
jim_randell 11/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with FW
Geoffers ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Bean
r0b 17/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
james wardle ?/Jun/93 AltLd
with simon Longley
timreynolds 25/May/91 2nd
with Tony Hayward
ellie macpherson ?/May/91 Lead
with Ian Holmes
FrankW ?/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with Pat H
ferret newman 01/Apr/90 2nd
with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991, Phil, Mad bloke from Rock & Rapids, Moley
craig h 27/Jan/90 Solo rpt
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
steve taylor ?/Feb/89 Lead O/S
with mark grover
craig h ?/Dec/88 Lead O/S
with Little Lou
MoWalker3 04/Sep/88 -
bazzag ??/1988 -
with carl and co.
Moses 26/Oct/86 Solo

Supervising novices on neighbouring climb

Moses 26/Oct/86 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
GuyM ??/1985 -
Nigel Coe 29/Jul/84 Solo
Nigel Coe 27/Jun/81 Solo
Nigel Coe 30/Apr/81 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/78 Lead
Chris Terrey ?/May/78 Lead
with Dave Kelsey, Gerry Dunford
Nigel Bond 27/Jul/74 Lead
with Dave Jolliffe, Pete Dainty
Martin Bennett 31/Aug/71 Solo
Steve Woollard ??/1970 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Aidanrobinson1995, simonjkinsella, Hidden, petersheppard, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, carlbakes, Warren Earle, Hidden, fivestar, Stick
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set