Rockfax Description
A real cracker of a face climb. Use the diagonal crack to reach the first overlap, move straight through and pass a second overlap on its right to gain a small niche. The final wall gives a fitting finale. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E2 5c in the CC guide

FA. Tony Wilmott 7.65 Jul/1965

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, SW Climbs - Swanage, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Oli 22/Nov Lead O/S

Felt like hard work although the climbing itself was fairly straight forward. Slowest lead ever? With useful encouragement from Scott Titt such as; 'you haven't got a friend 2.5 have you? There's a really good placement for one just up there..' Good fun.

with Fred
LJC 03/Oct TR rpt

x3 for some end of day mileage

with Phill
stevoland 22/Jul 2nd β
ian d f 18/Jun Lead O/S
with Adam
Ciderslider 22/May TR dog

Really wet, but got it with just one fall half way this time

with Luca
LJC 22/May TR
with Mark
Graham Westbrook 22/Apr 2nd
with Gibbon
MontyH 15/Apr TR O/S
with brian and Pete
maybe_si 06/Apr TR O/S
adam 24 22/Mar Lead

Lacked commitment to make the move into the niche, you can't see the holds and the gear is a bit worrying. Couldn't resist the temptation to make one move left and rest in the chimney.

with Paul Clarkson
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Russell Lovett ??/2015 TR O/S

Cant remember who with or date but early 1980,s.

with unknown
Ciderslider 14/Sep/14 TR dog

Really annoyed, got two thirds of the way up without any major drama then I made a few silly mistakes - got the top section after a couple of short falls

with Ben
brian watson 30/Aug/14 TR
with shunt
Sam4242 28/Aug/14 TR RP

Shunt solo

katiep 24/Aug/14 TR rpt

Would love to lead this one day

with Callan
brian watson 09/Aug/14 TR rpt
with shunt
LJC 03/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with George, ben.richards
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tash 01/Jul/14 2nd
with ali k
AlexD 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Marti
mc fifi 18/May/14 2nd
with Ed Hastrop
Stroppy 18/May/14 Lead rpt

First E3 lead, climbed last year on TR so not an onsight but still chuffed :)

Gareth 16/May/14 TR rpt
with on shunt
Hidden 14/May/14 Lead β
will moy 14/May/14 Lead RP

one go on top rope then clean lead. pretty steady and good gear

with tom thorne
paultaylor 04/May/14 TR
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead β
brices 08/Mar/14 2nd RP
with Remus
Sophie Nunn 29/Dec/13 TR rpt
brian watson 06/Oct/13 TR dog
with shunt
brian watson 06/Oct/13 TR rpt
with shunt
Luxulyan 06/Aug/13 2nd
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 06/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Richard
Sophie Nunn 17/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Luxulyan 17/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Sophie
brices 10/Jul/13 2nd β
Mike Goldthorp 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great climbing!

with Simon, Ben Norman
Luxulyan 26/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Martin
Hidden 23/Apr/13 TR
Stroppy 07/Apr/13 TR O/S

TR just for fun as we had to rush. Got up it no problem.

RKirke 06/Apr/13 TR O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/13 TR dog
ianto ??/2013 -
LukeyG 06/Nov/12 TR
MontyH 13/Oct/12 TR
with brian and lee
Hidden 13/Oct/12 TR
Ian JL 15/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 19/Jun/12 TR rpt
with Darrel, Alan
patrickc 22/May/12 TR rpt
with oli
Sophie Nunn 01/May/12 TR dog


with Scott
billb ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 19/Mar/12 TR rpt
Sophie Nunn 12/Mar/12 TR rpt
LJC 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Minor epic. Definitely not E2 5b as according to CC guide.

with Jack, Tom
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 TR

Sustained, no real stopper moves, but anybody can climb well on a top-rope. I would not have the stamina to stand around fiddling with gear.

with Tom Shimell
Sophie Nunn 19/Nov/11 TR rpt
nick hawkins 21/Sep/11 TR
jtree03 19/Aug/11 TR
3 Names 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
riddle 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Hidden ?/May/11 -
al99 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

The guide made it sound like a bit of a nightmare but gear was ample (I placed 9 pieces) and the climbing was at the bottom end of the 5c grade. I think it might be closer to E2 5c.

martinazando 25/Apr/11 2nd dog
Sophie Nunn 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
Gareth 15/Apr/11 TR rpt
with on shunt
sarpedon 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 04/Apr/11 TR rpt
GuyM ??/2011 -

unfortunately on shunted on family hol - good route though..

steve taylor 07/Nov/10 TR


brian watson 07/Nov/10 TR rpt
Gareth 12/Aug/10 TR rpt
with on shunt
natalietanzer 07/Jul/10 TR
with marcus
Hidden 07/Jul/10 TR
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Lead
colkurtz ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Robb
katiep 20/Jun/10 TR O/S
with Ceri, Robin Head
Ceridwen 20/Jun/10 TR rpt

Fantastic moves! But looks like gear would be sparse and hard to place, maybe one day!

with Robin Head, Katy Preston
Robin Head 20/Jun/10 TR O/S
with Katie
tscoobydoo ?/Jun/10 -
brian watson 18/May/10 TR β
with Pete Frost
Hidden 28/Mar/10 Lead rpt
patrickc 07/Mar/10 TR rpt
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead rpt
Ed Babs 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Harry
tobydunford 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead dnf
benkelsey 11/Sep/09 TR β
Sophie Nunn 08/Sep/09 TR
Ceridwen 16/Aug/09 2nd dnf

Got dark, rock wet, we bailed onto the severe to the left. Had to 2nd with a head torch, did more than half philatus clean before falling just below the last piece of gear.

with Andy Mosienko
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
dan gibson 25/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with tio
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Lead β
Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun/09 Lead dnf
feilx 22/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Crazy Tom
jchenoweth 21/Mar/09 TR O/S
Gareth 17/Feb/09 TR
Hidden ??/2009 -
sdht ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/08 TR dog
tobydunford 26/Apr/08 TR dog
trevor macalonan ??/2008 TR dog
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
dannyboy83 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Sion
Bern ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Steve Pearson
tonanf ?/May/07 Lead dog

Took this little number much too lightly, it gets the E3 for sustaindness I guess, and finding protection worth anything was hard. Every time I spent ages trying to find pro, which was rubbish, then I commkited to the next move and immediatly spotted what would have been much preferable gear., A lesson in reading the whole climb and not just the climbinbg

with arpollard
Tom Gadsden 15/Apr/07 TR dog
with Will
steve taylor ?/Feb/07 TR
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
feilx ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Lovatt
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden 24/Jun/05 TR
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 28/Dec/04 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 27/Jul/03 TR
JasonG ??/2003 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Ian Jones ??/2000 Solo O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden 28/Mar/99 Lead
akamini ?/Mar/99 TR
FrankW ??/1999 2nd O/S
with Harry Massey
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
kp64zl ?/Jul/97 TR
nacnud 15/Mar/97 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/93 Lead O/S
OMSKB 05/May/93 2nd
with Richard Winfield
Nigel Coe 13/Feb/93 -
Tim M ??/1992 Lead O/S
Roget 16/Nov/91 Lead O/S
with jon
steve taylor ?/May/91 Solo
with mark grover
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
kp64zl ??/1990 TR dog
MoWalker3 19/Nov/89 TR
Nigel Coe 29/Aug/88 Lead
with Ray Mardon
Nigel Coe 26/Jul/88 TR

Clipping in to knotted rope

Nigel Coe 07/Feb/88 TR

Noticed that the block at three-quarter height was gone.

Nigel Coe ?/Oct/87 TR

Barefoot as I'd forgotten my rock shoes.

Nigel Coe 27/May/87 TR

Three reps

Nigel Coe 29/Mar/87 -
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/86 Lead
with Brian Wyvill
Nigel Coe 21/Aug/84 TR
Nigel Coe 08/Aug/84 -
with Tim Dunsby
Nigel Coe 21/Jul/84 TR
Nigel Coe 08/Apr/84 TR
Nigel Coe 08/Jan/84 TR
Nigel Coe 26/Jul/83 TR
Nigel Coe 10/Oct/82 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, Hidden, BenFitzG, RFWilkie, Owen W-G, Ash Sayers, Alex Hallam, givemetea, JonBrown, Ezy Ryder, Hidden
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Style of ascent
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