UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies east of Scotsman Chimney to the start of Traverse of the Gods.

24m.

Rockfax Description
A hidden gem. From the left-hand end of the ledge, climb a tough crack to the faultline. Step right and follow a pleasant groove to an easy slab. The slab leads up rightwards to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, Tim Dunsby 18/Aug/1974.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Swanage , subluminal A to Z .....almost , Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
igm852 23 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil rope needs to runs more to the right from the last stake facing the sea, otherwise you end up on the wrong ledge. The crack is hard
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The abseil rope needs to runs more to the right from the last stake facing the sea, otherwise you end up on the wrong ledge. The crack is hard
matt perks 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good route. The start is steep and requires a bit of technique. I think 4C is fair. www.dizzy-heights.co.uk
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A good route. The start is steep and requires a bit of technique. I think 4C is fair. www.dizzy-heights.co.uk
Ewan 13 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: That initial crack is quite hard for 4c. Straight forward after that though. Quite an atmospheric route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: That initial crack is quite hard for 4c. Straight forward after that though. Quite an atmospheric route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 21
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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