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Old Faithful** VS 4c

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[Luke enjoying the awkward section of P1, 3 kb]30m, 2 pitches. The abseil line is the safest escape, and also a worthy route. 1) 4b, 14m. Climb the crack above the fin-backed boulder to a large fault-line ledge. 2) 4c, 21m. Climb the next crack boldly around a roof and continue to a ledge on the left. Move right into a corner to finish. © ROCKFAX
FA. R.Kent, Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 4.5.69 04/May/1969

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Luke enjoying the awkward section of P1 © Ciderslider
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 180 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

lead P1
dobby 200 - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Joe Doherty

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Micheal Dobinson

led p2
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - 16/Feb/14 with Sarah Welsh

Led P1
Sarah Welsh - AltLd - 16/Feb/14 with Steve Price

Hidden - Lead - 29/Dec/13

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Dec/13

First Swanage VS for me, really nice climb, Mike made the start of the first pitch much more interesting than a VS!
DaveGarrity - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Mike Henesy

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/Nov/13

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 14/Nov/13 with Tom Thorne

will moy - AltLd - 14/Oct/13 with paul taylor

Lead P2
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/13 with Will I Am

dan gibson - 2nd - 22/Sep/13 with richard lade

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/13

stonemikey - Lead - 11/Sep/13 with Mark Ward

Led P1
Julian Prieto - AltLd rpt - 01/Sep/13 with John Knight, Alan Blanchflower

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Sep/13 with John Knight, Julian Prieto

Luxulyan - 2nd - 25/Aug/13 with Dan S

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/13

jtree03 - Lead - 15/Aug/13 with dazza

Dan Hostford - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Led second pitch. Nut dropped out under roof after taking it! Hard to find very satisfactory cam placements. Interesting moves throughout top pitch.
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Ian Cramman

Butch start and tough sustained second pitch. Lovely route.
oscaig - AltLd O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Kim Mulji

Me P1, Monika P2. Good as a team of three - party ledge for belay 1. Fantastic climbing on P2. Perfect hand jams all the way, or jugs to the sides. A must for any VS leader!
ChrisBrooke - AltLd rpt - 13/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen

Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - Oct/12 with Brian Mead

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/12

First pitch 4b? Really?
Kirill - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12

Awesome route - soaked before starting. Overhung first pitch and tricky start to second as tired arms finished in the dark
halfwaythere - Lead dog - 24/May/12 with jarod

Took a while on this one--didn't make it up till past dark!
jarodbishop - AltLd - May/12

Fantastic Ruckle lushness - Glad Luke enjoyed the first pitch ;-) Topped out as the sun was setting
Ciderslider - 2nd rpt - 29/Feb/12 with LukeyG

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 19/Feb/12

Hidden - 19/Feb/12

tried to lead 2nd pitch but wimped out
louby - 2nd - 29/Jan/12 with Chris Burn

Awkward start but some good climbing after that.
chris_B - Lead - 29/Jan/12 with Lou Atkin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12

Brian Rodgers - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Simon Pape

Ian JL - 2012

I led P1. large swell meant it was the only route we could get to after abseiling in. Nice route, exciting overhang on P2
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/11 with Robin

Heavy sea's, big waves and spring tide, quickest I've ever seen Jo do a pitch. I got soaked belaying and had to tie into the ab rope to stop me getting Harold Bishoped
dickie01 - AltLd rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Joe Heasman

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Oct/11

excellent climb, great introduction to swanage. got to do the second pitch twice as luke couldn't remove my first cam
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/11 with luke rathmell

Nearly lost stubbsy's big cam on the second pitch!!
lukerathmell - AltLd O/S - Oct/11 with Carl Stubbs

Fatclimber - Lead dog - 25/Sep/11 with Dean Chapman

MontyH - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Paul Milton

jasonpm - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Steve IMC

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 24/Sep/11 with Jason

loved the climb. belay ledge big enough for a double bed with space. the roof has got the holds and for a ruckle route seems less "wanting to murder you at every second"
norb - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11

jezb1 - AltLd - 01/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/11

jezb1 - Lead - 15/Aug/11

Ciderslider - 2nd rpt - 15/Aug/11 with Jez B

Led P2
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Alan Blanchflower

Led P1.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Julian Prieto

Lead P1 (and made a bit of a balls up of the move halfway up)
Ciderslider - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Paul Davis

dickie01 - AltLd - 31/Jul/11 with Joe Heasman

Rich K - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/11 with Wayne Cheung

LukeyG - 2011

Lead p2 after climbing up and down the first few moves a number of times. Quite meaty but enjoyable. Started snowing whilst on route!
jezb1 - AltLd - 27/Nov/10

This was cold. First time I've ever seen it snowing at Swanage. We were the only climbers anywhere in the Ruckle, definite "macho" points for this one. Felt hard with no feeling in the hands and greasy holds, dropped a sling in the sea when leading P1 and had to abandon a hex wedged in the depths on P2 ...cold does funny stuff to you!!
The Ivanator - AltLd rpt - 27/Nov/10 with Jez

JonBrown - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Ceridwen

Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Jon Brown

feilx - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Heather

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Nov/10

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 19/Oct/10 with Andy

LJKing - AltLd - Oct/10 with Rob Marson

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

Richard Morgan - AltLd β - 30/Aug/10 with Ivan, Toby Kluth

The Ivanator - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Richard M, Toby

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 30/Aug/10 with Richard and Ivan

Wet after yesterdays rain, had to come out onto the left hand face of first pitch which is fingery with the gear int he crack
climbtim - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Oct/09

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Lee

Fab route!
Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Thomasina, Uber Mike

Ben Harper - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with lauren davies

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09

pumped me out for the rest of the day!
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/09

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/09

Pete led pitch two, fine climbing, he was v pleased.
MontyH - AltLd - 08/Aug/09 with pete frost

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09

Hidden - Aug/09

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Jul/09

Hidden - 2009

in one pitch
trev_f - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Ed

Bern - 2nd - 15/Nov/08 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Nov/08

Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/08

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Oct/08

in one pitch
givemetea - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Tracey Tomlin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/08 with Guy Reid

Lead 2nd pitch. Mike lead 1st pitch
Rollo - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Kit

Led P1
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 13/Sep/08 with Simon Chandler

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/08

MontyH - Lead - 23/Aug/08 with Pete Frost and Paul Milton

I lead the first pitch, a bit bulgy but was able to jam my body into the corner while placing gear.
RocknRoll - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/08 with Ramon Marin Martinez

clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Ed Babington

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Lee Mercer

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Andy N

Hidden - 2nd dog - 2008

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2008 with Tom Gadsden

dcomeau - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Steve Dunn

dobrek - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/07 with simon4, Paul W

lee's first trip in the Ruckle
MontyH - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/07 with lee lander and Paul Milton

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/07

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/07 with Sion

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 10/May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Piers Harley - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/06 with Rob Marson

Ramon Marin - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/06 with Salomon Fernandez

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Sep/06

great route full of gear, with some steep moves.
MontyH - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/06 with Brian

What a great route!
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/06 with Clare Lambert

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/06

Nice climb, set us up for the day.
twodada - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/06 with Ion

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2006

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/05 with John Inkpen

M_W_Court - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/05

Hidden - Lead - 24/Sep/05

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/05

Hidden - Lead - Sep/05

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Aug/05

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/05

Boxy - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/05 with Vince

timharrison - Lead O/S - 2005

feilx - 2005

timharrison - Lead - 16/Sep/04 with Matt Perks

bigie bob - Lead O/S - Sep/04

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/04

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 01/Aug/04 with DAJ, Clare Francis

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jan/04

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jan/04

Hidden - 2004

andyfeds - 2nd - 2004 with Max S

brian watson - Lead O/S - 2004 with scott titt

five - Lead O/S - Nov/03

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/03

brew_guru - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Sep/02

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/02

Lead pitch 1. My first route in the Ruckle. I was so looking forward to climbing in Boulder Ruckle that I will be forever grateful for that day. It was a brilliant sunny and wonderful and we had an epic on our 2nd route of the day - gymcrack - almost getting cut off/stranded by the incoming tide.
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/02 with Paul L

jl - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/01 with Simon Bowler

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 13/Sep/98

kp64zl - AltLd - Feb/97 with Kirsten

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/96

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - Sep/96 with Neil Peck

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/95

Nigel Coe - Lead - 21/Feb/93

kp64zl - Lead - Jan/92 with Matt H

steve taylor - Lead - 1992

sdht - 1992

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/91

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 10/Sep/88 with Steve Portnoi

Nigel Coe - Lead - 05/Aug/88 with Duncan Turner

Dave Musgrove - 22/Feb/86

Nigel Coe - 11/Dec/83 with Pete Oxley

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 27/Nov/78 with Bob Mott

Falko - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/75 with Howard Lancashire

Nigel Bond - Lead - 23/Feb/74 with Dave Jolliffe

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lukerathmell, khalidq, Andy Chubb, Simon Cahill, djking1983, Hidden, Cat Hendrie, Fatclimber, benny b, leonjones, ben.richards, andyfeds, nick hawkins, Warren Earle, Tom Gadsden, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard HVS0 of 37
HVS0 of 37
easy HVS1 of 37
hard VS13 of 37
VS23 of 37
easy VS0 of 37
hard HS0 of 37
HS0 of 37
easy HS0 of 37
hard 5a0 of 34
5a0 of 34
easy 5a2 of 34
hard 4c3 of 34
4c27 of 34
easy 4c1 of 34
hard 4b1 of 34
4b0 of 34
easy 4b0 of 34
3 Stars7 of 34
2 Stars22 of 34
1 Star5 of 34
0 Stars0 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent

Lead58 of 180 (32.2%)
Followed28 of 180 (15.6%)
Alt Leads78 of 180 (43.3%)
Unknown16 of 180 (8.9%)

'Climbed'81 of 180 (45.0%)
clean O/S73 of 180 (40.6%)
clean β1 of 180 (0.6%)
clean rpt21 of 180 (11.7%)
dogged4 of 180 (2.2%)