Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.
Rockfax Description
A modified and stabilised version of the original climb that has maintained its quality and trad status. Climb One Previous Owner for 4m and go right to a thin crack and break above. Move up to a good hold - thread and peg runner - and take the flakeline to a bolt. Climb over an overlap and up the wall to a lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Re-cleaned and the old fixed ‘bashee wire’ now replaced with a bolt. The peg and thread have been left to retain the trad atmosphere and wires are still needed.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Malham Cove)