Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >
 
Sweet SA* VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Buzz Lightyear
 
Sea Lion >>
35m, 2 pitches. A challenging climb featuring a tough first pitch and a fine upper pitch shared with 'B' Line. High in the grade. 1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner past a bulge to a ledge. Continue to the fault-line and belay over to the left next to a boulder. 2) 5a, 20m. Move up and leftwards to below a groove. Climb the grey wall boldly up right and then back left to the groove. Climb this with difficulty past an old peg to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. F.Clarke, Al Alvarez 1963
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 87 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

RD P2
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Gary

P1
garywong - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Robert Dufton

Led p2, would be HVS anywhere but Swanage
Owen W-G - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Curly Steve

Yeah I found the first overhang harder than Aventura or Joe, defo 5a. I think pitch two feels HVS 5a also.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - 06/Sep/14

Nice climbing, not too bold really. Peg is bomber
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Prince

P1
paultaylor - AltLd - 16/Jun/14 with Will I Am

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Paul K, Pete H

Sophie Nunn - AltLd rpt - 18/May/14 with Andy J

Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 18/May/14 with Sophie

Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

Hidden - Lead - May/14

Peter Lovell - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14

Led P2. I always underestimate this pitch.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 01/Mar/14 with Alex Dennis

led p1. wild!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Monkey Alan

Led P1
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13 with Alan Blanchflower

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 28/Jul/13 with Julian Prieto

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/13 with alex malins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13

ianto - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12

couldn't remember a thing from last time, got shagged trying to get round the bulge on the right - wrong way. Cracking second pitch led bt Chris.
mikehenesy - AltLd dog - 17/Jun/12 with Chris Lodge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/12

dave657 - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Toby

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Dave Ripley

Sian p1, Chris p2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Sian Hughes

sian88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Andy Mosienko

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 24/Jul/11 with James Bisset

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11

Leiko Miura - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Peter Roberts, Ali Bahar

If the 2nd pitch is 5a, then the 1st pitch must be 5b! most definately harder and certainly felt harder than E1's that i have done to date. Top is littered with loose choss, but still a very fine route.
Ali.B - Lead O/S - Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

norb - 2nd - Jun/11

dickie01 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Joe Heasman

LJC - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with ben.richards

The line of pitch 1 is confusing - the overhangs above the corner do not seem to go at 4c. Luca took a nice line out left under them (more suited to the grade) then climbed to the fault. Pitch two: the RF guide says to climb up then trend rightwards to top out but the rock was very chossy so I trended left instead, up a technical wall, past a peg and finised up a shallow corner...I think it was actually the right way to go!
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Luca Celano

Guy 1st Pitch. Lost way on second, broke handhold, clipped to peg - lobed!
DaNo123 - AltLd dog - 25/Sep/10 with GUY

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Nick

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/10 with Rich Brammall

Bram - AltLd - 20/Sep/10 with Dave King

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/10

Dave Thompson - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/10 with Duncan Critchley

Gazzawatson - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Brian Watson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/10 with Tom Thorne, Mark James

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/10

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with sue Hazel

Lead 1st. Funky moves pulling through the overhangs, felt more like E1 to be honest! Are you meant to go left? Top pitch was pretty hard, maybe deserving HVS? Rusty pegs!
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Tom Smart

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/10 with jacquie robinson

Led 1st pitch. Struggled at the steep bulge, but got through eventually.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Frodo Stickel

Alan p1, me p2
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Alan B

Jane Weir - Lead - 2010

LJKing - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Rob Marson

First pitch was nails getting round the overhang, maybe I did it wrong, that's where I found the 5a. Pro was fine though. Didn't see what the fuss was about on the second pitch, Tom did lead it though. I dodged the falling rocks just fine, best to belay under the break on the wobbly rock.
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Tom Boeux

trev_f - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/09 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Ben

Great climb, deserves extra star I think. Bottom pitch harder than top unless you eat overhangs for breakfast
manwithacam - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/08 with Alex

garburn - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/08 with Sophie Nunn

clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Ed Babington

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Lee Mercer

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 2008 with harry massey

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 04/Aug/07

andy jennings - 2nd O/S - Aug/07

struggled today? mind just isnt on it
MontyH - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/07 with Paul Milton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 22/Dec/06

I lead the second pitch, Suse lead the first one, this was Suse's first Swanage VS!!
timharrison - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/06 with Suse

Boxy - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2006

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 20/May/05 with Ben Gilbert

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005

feilx - 2005

Jason Gotel - Lead - Aug/04 with Pippa Lansdown

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 16/May/04 with will woodhead, jeremy leicester, dan, paul kenny, hans allnut, simon ball, farrow

benjino - Jan/04

andyfeds - Lead - 06/Sep/03 with Andy C

Led first pitch, Rich led second. Awesome roof on first and dodgy looking piton on second.....spectacular route....
ohsteveo - Lead - Aug/03 with Rich Gautier

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 13/Oct/85 with Scott Titt

My knee 'popped' on a 'floppy bridging' move on the first pitch, so handed over the lead to Tim and needed a tight rope to escape, before limping back to the car.
Nigel Coe - 2nd - 31/Dec/82 with Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lukerathmell, Simon Cahill, benny b, Hidden, Tom Gadsden

Voting
Total votes cast 67
hard HVS0 of 23
HVS2 of 23
easy HVS9 of 23
hard VS4 of 23
VS8 of 23
easy VS0 of 23
hard HS0 of 23
HS0 of 23
easy HS0 of 23
hard 5b0 of 24
5b0 of 24
easy 5b1 of 24
hard 5a13 of 24
5a10 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
hard 4c0 of 24
4c0 of 24
easy 4c0 of 24
3 Stars1 of 20
2 Stars14 of 20
1 Star5 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead25 of 87 (28.7%)
Followed8 of 87 (9.2%)
Alt Leads49 of 87 (56.3%)
Unknown5 of 87 (5.7%)

'Climbed'19 of 87 (21.8%)
clean O/S59 of 87 (67.8%)
clean rpt7 of 87 (8.0%)
dogged2 of 87 (2.3%)