Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The highlight is the lovely roof on the first pitch.
1) 6a, 20m. Start as for Sweet SA. At 5m, traverse right out of the corner and cross the two-metre ceiling to an easier crack.
2) 5c, 20m. Pull over the roof on the right, then bypass another overhang on its right and finish up the wall above. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley, Crispin Waddy 29/Aug/1986.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mark Warnett | 17 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The sea lion bit felt bold but easy; I may have missed gear. Good gear to protect the crux (although tat looks old), which is pretty fierce, but it is all there once you launch. Will lead the top pitch of sea lion to avoid loose top pitch; unfortunately this was also a tottering pile of choss! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The sea lion bit felt bold but easy; I may have missed gear. Good gear to protect the crux (although tat looks old), which is pretty fierce, but it is all there once you launch. Will lead the top pitch of sea lion to avoid loose top pitch; unfortunately this was also a tottering pile of choss! |
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| ian bryant | 27 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: agree with dannyboy. very committing roof moves (you'd never reverse it) but there's lots of gear to prevent you hitting anything and all the holds you need are there - just have a good look from the bottom. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: agree with dannyboy. very committing roof moves (you'd never reverse it) but there's lots of gear to prevent you hitting anything and all the holds you need are there - just have a good look from the bottom. |
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| dannyboy83 | 9 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awesome wild moves to gain both hands on the lip of the roof. Crap 2nd pitch though | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Awesome wild moves to gain both hands on the lip of the roof. Crap 2nd pitch though |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle
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Ocean Boulevard
Grade: E3 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)