Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >
 
The Heidelberg Creature** VS 4c

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[seconding pitch 1 of "The Heidelberg Creature", 2 kb]40m, 2 pitches. An outrageously-steep corner-line that is well protected but hard for the grade. Start on a small ledge below the corner. 1) 4c, 20m. Climb the corner and make a steep pull up left to a ledge below an overhang at 8m. Continue steeply up the corner on good holds to a ledge and belay at the fault-line. 2) 4b, 20m. Pull through the overhang using a finger-crack and move up to a slim corner. Climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge on the right at its end. Finish carefully. © ROCKFAX
There is reports of some large loose blocks at 2/3 hieght. take care until this has stableized.
FA. Tony Wilmott, A.Heppenstall 18/Sep/1966

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Swanage.

Photo: seconding pitch 1 of "The Heidelberg Creature" © Piers Harley
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 175 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

Led P1, 2nd P2
tedburt - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Aaron Burdett

Followed John after Pete broke his ankle. Not a good day.
Curly Rich - 2nd - 21/Apr/13 with GMC JohnP

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Apr/13

leglesslizard - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

led pitch 1
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 08/Dec/12 with laurence, Alan B

Monkey_Alan - 2nd rpt - 08/Dec/12 with Lawrence Dudley, Frodo Stickel

Lawrence Dudley - AltLd - 08/Dec/12 with Frodo S, Alan B

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Nov/12

budchawla - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Alexander Orlov

Again, steep and thuggy Ruckle stuff on pitch 1 up to the layer of mid height strata. Then pitch 2, 4b 'Pull through the overhang using a finger crack' classic.
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Johnny Richard

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/12

Led P1, Sarah P2. Extremely steep, extremely reachy (for the short, which I am).
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/12 with Sarah Bayley

'' sticky damp!! ''
CRiddiford - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12 with Jake Young

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/12 with Caroline

great 4 warming up
Rockwarrior - Aug/12 with Shabad Chawla

Climbed both pitches in one go; no belay.
Steve27 - Lead - 28/Jul/12 with Luke Rathmell

RD p2
rd20 - AltLd - 13/Jul/12 with Patrick

paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd - 13/Jul/12 with robert dufton

Diccon lead the 1st pitch, I took the second.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Diccon Proctor, Paul Nurse

P1 very steep, hard for a 4c
Edward Hastrop - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12 with Josh Brown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

P1 only. Brilliant climbing, wildly steep but not at all pumpy and loadsa gear! Seagull nesting on belay ledge but quickly calms down if you're quiet.
AlexD - Lead O/S - 25/May/12 with Marti

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 13/May/12 with pep

Hidden - AltLd - 12/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12

froglette - 2nd - 11/May/12 with John Proudfoot

dave657 - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Toby

tobydunford - 2nd rpt - 14/Apr/12 with Dave Ripley

Led P2. Awesome lead by Paul on P1, committing step off the tight belay to start P2. Wow
TimKnight - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Paul Anker

Lead P1. Solid. Have never placed so much gear on one pitch. Lots of it though and plenty of big hands but doesn't stop the consistently steep wall from being consistently intimidating
Joemanglerocks - AltLd - 01/Apr/12 with TimKnight

John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Oli Brend

Hidden - 2012

dickie01 - AltLd rpt - 13/Nov/11 with Joe Heasman

pitch 2
chris_B - AltLd - 05/Nov/11 with Lou Atkin

I did the first pitch - steep!
louby - AltLd - 05/Nov/11 with Chris Burn

Hidden - Lead - 16/Oct/11

Stubsey did the first glory pitch (why does it only get one star in the guide?) and I got the scarey choss pitch(oh yeah 3 stars for the first and minus 2 for the second-and where should it go?). Stubsey reconed it was a lot harder than his previous Swanage VS.
mikehenesy - AltLd - 15/Oct/11 with Carl Stubbs

1st pitch- steep, juggy and pumpy with good gear and solid rock 2nd pitch- makes you think more (less juggy) less gear and a lot of loose rock through out. the harder of the two pitches
carl_123 - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/11 with mike henesy

jasonpm - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Steve IMC

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 24/Sep/11 with Jason

Led second pitch. Scary loose rocks, seagulls, could use a stake at the top
risby - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Julian Prieto

Led P1
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Ris Wright

Encountered an angry seagull on second pitch with 2 chicks in her nest. She kept dive bombing me, which made things exciting. Good route - typical full on Swanage experience.
Andy Chubb - Lead - 23/Jul/11 with James Mulvaney, Jim Mulvaney

Led 2nd half P1
Cheese Monkey - Lead dnf - 11/Jul/11 with Simon C

Tough sustained climbing on pitch one, how is this VS if Aventura is HVS? and how 4c if Tensor 11 is 5a, Swanage grades make no sense, beware! I placed gear to pass the jammed (loose!) flakes at about 18m but was totally pumped with nothing left to pull over. I lowered off and Ben climbed through to the belay. The peg & thread made us wonder if we where on The Tool E2 5b, it really did seem that hard, however photos on UKC seem to show we where on Hiedelberg Creature, I lead through for pitch two but traversed left for easier ground and the top out, the thin finger crack can wait for another day.
Simon Cahill - AltLd β - 11/Jul/11 with Ben Darby

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

P1
wi11 - AltLd rpt - 27/Jun/11 with Frank C

me second pitch in the rain, started just as we got to the bottom of the abseil! Doh!
Ceridwen - AltLd rpt - 05/Jun/11 with Edwin Jenkins

Led P2. p1 was hard for a 4c! Good gear though
LozM - AltLd - 09/Apr/11 with Mark J

I lead P1, Gary Lead P2
max railing - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with gary vinton

wi11 - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/11 with Chris Gee

Daj p1, me pitch 2
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Daj

Led p1, a cheeky reacquaint with the ruckle
nick hawkins - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/11 with Jez

P2 this time. Nice and steep!
jezb1 - AltLd - 03/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/10

A good route, steep, 3 dimensional, exposed. Have climbed this before but very different today to how I remembered it. Meaty stuff
middlemarker - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Joris

Awckward
Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Dan Metcalfe

Led 2nd pitch
DaNo123 - AltLd - 25/Sep/10 with NICK, steve

Great first pitch with some quite steep sections but lots of good holds. quite difficult to find gear for the belay at the fault line due to poor rock, but it's a big ledge that can fit 4 people comfortably so long as you don't want to stand up. Second pitch much easier in a great situation. Good gear all the way. Lead first pitch
wild_nomad - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Martin Hore

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Dan, Nick

LJC - Lead - 22/Sep/10 with ben.richards

Sustained first pitch with 'three' bulges rather than rockfax's proposed 'one'! Nice Pitch all the same, with positive holds when you need them. P2 is frightfully loose at the top with some worringly large, wobbly blocks. Luca pulled off one the size of a horse's head as he started seconding P2...also DON'T USE THE OBVIOUS THREAD FOR PROTECTION, IT SOUNDS TOTALY DETACHED! However, as long as care is taken, it is a fun route, worth doing :)
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/10 with Luca Celano

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/10 with Rich Brammall

Bram - AltLd - 20/Sep/10 with Dave King

haydng - AltLd rpt - 04/Sep/10 with John

nick led p1 i got p2. P2 chossy but easy. P1 very fun
rob askew - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/10 with nick brindley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Led first pitch. Stupendous for a VS! Really good. Second pitch just a way to the top really. Adam did well to get his head in gear and lead it after failing on Lightning Wall and having to rest on the first pitch of this.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Adam

only did pitch one as we were chased off by a angry seagul
cayteye - 2nd dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Kevin Faux

Tom Thorne - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Ed babington

Kevster - Jul/10

davewing - 2nd - 13/Jun/10 with Lee

Lead 1st pitch, nice route!
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Tom Smart

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/10

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Tim

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Tim Wong

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with Mike McKenna

Carly - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Richard

Intimidating and tough first pitch.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 03/May/10 with Stewart

FIrst pitch is a contorsionists delight, loads of jugs though. Second pitch quite stiff for 4b!
al99 - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - AltLd O/S - 01/May/10 with Al Benson

dan gibson - AltLd rpt - 27/Apr/10 with marvin

Chris P1, Matt P2. My first climb at Boulder Ruckle! Definitely going to be back for more.
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/10 with Matt Lunn

Excellent route. First pitch steep but plastered in holds and plenty for your feet. Second pitch great too.
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 23/Apr/10 with Gideon Castro

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Mar/10

colkurtz - AltLd - 07/Mar/10 with Robb

Hidden - 2010

LoopyLou - Lead - 12/Sep/09 with Roslyn

done as a single pitch
givemetea - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Louisa

Led Pitch 2
Darrell Read - AltLd - 22/Aug/09 with Oliver Mentz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

Lead 2nd pitch. Tried leading 1st pitch, but was intimidated by the overhang and lowered off. Very hard for VS 4c.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd - 09/Aug/09 with John Wilds, Max Streeton

my first Swanage VS. Nails!
Dave Mahon - Aug/09 with Brian

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/09 with Clare

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Jul/09 with Mike

me first pitch
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Phil

sgl - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Jez

Ld P1. Really enjoyable, steep but not too fierce.
jezb1 - AltLd - 18/Jun/09

andy jennings - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Big A

Led P1. First climb back from injury, was really scared... Also had a foot hold pop off, hence the fall, though I was well protected. Gorgeous day as well...
The_Boy_ODwyer - AltLd dog - 01/Jun/09 with Sersh

Lead the first pitch and Chris got stuck with the traditional Swanage top one. First pitch was a good honest struggle, good pro all the way.
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with Chris Lodge

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Jun/09

Led 1st pitch.
garywong - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09 with Patrick Goodwin

trev_f - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/09 with Ed

Brutish
Mr Tickle - 2nd β - 14/Feb/09 with davenev

P1 a proper grunt!
davenev - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/09 with luke

feilx - 2nd rpt - 01/Feb/09 with Tiff

Hidden - 2009

31770 - AltLd O/S - 2009 with Darrell Read

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/08

Led P1, a bit of a brute!
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 29/Sep/08 with Guy Reid

I lead the first pitch, Peter Lead the second
RocknRoll - Lead rpt - 27/Sep/08 with Peter Murphy

doyle12 - Lead dnf - 06/Aug/08 with Tristian

steep for 4C, big holds though. second pitch is not much easier. worth the 2 stars
PaulW - AltLd - Aug/08 with simon

doyle12 - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/08 with Tristian

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/08

dickie01 - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Joe Heasman

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

luke1986 - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Rob lead the first pitch (4c) I lead the second pitch (4b)
RocknRoll - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/08 with Rob Gibson

dcomeau - Lead O/S - 23/May/08 with Steve Dunn

haydng - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Rachel

RMG - 2nd - 11/May/08 with haydng

feilx - AltLd rpt - 20/Apr/08 with Graham Lewis

Got a bit spooked. Great top pitch.
Southern Man - 2nd - 05/Apr/08 with Nick

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/08 with phil Ashby

Led pitch one. Awesome overhanging corner with loads of holds and gear. really enjoyable layback crack on pitch 2. great climb.
Bart Shaw - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/08 with Mike

garburn - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/08 with Sophie Nunn

Lead the top pitch - need to be careful to stay on route, which is a crack that's quite challenging for the grade. Enjoyed it!
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Ed Babington

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Lee Mercer

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with anna barnes

First visit to Boulder Ruckle. What an awe inspiring place! Of the three routes we climbed, this was the only one I seconded cleanly.
alexrp - 2nd - 18/Oct/07 with Tony F

Up a groove, then an easy face, good climbing
tonanf - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with graham

My first 'ruckle experiance'!, left me wanting more
csd23 - Lead O/S - Sep/07 with Alister

lead 1st pitch, felt quite steep, massive holds though!
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Ben Smith

Katex - 2nd - 24/Aug/07 with Dan

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 04/Aug/07

P1 Tom (1 rest) P2 Roly
Tom Gadsden - Lead - 07/Jul/07 with Roly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/May/07

middlemarker - AltLd - May/07 with Martin

MontyH - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with pete frost

Sylvi - 2nd - 16/Mar/07 with Simon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/07

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2007 with Iain Shone

Led P2. Tough 1st pitch - outrageously overhanging for VS!
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/06 with Martin Hore

Boxy - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/06

timharrison - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Tim

timharrison - AltLd O/S - 27/May/06 with Mike Clifford

Piers Harley - Lead dnf - 26/Apr/06 with Rob Marson

Piers Harley - 2nd - 26/Apr/06 with Rob Marson

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/06

serious VS with some wicked moves
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with the mole

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/06

Jon Greengrass - Lead O/S - 2006

brian watson - Lead O/S - 2006 with Jeff Yaldren

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2006

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/05 with John Inkpen

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/05

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005

timharrison - Lead O/S - 2005 with Corryne

feilx - 2005

M,D
Marq - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/04 with Daniel Dennehy

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/04

Haglington - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Sandy Ogilvie

benjino - Jan/04

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Nov/03

Led p2
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/02 with Paul L

Hidden - AltLd - 2001

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/99 with Graham Dolman

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
tonevert, Hidden, gilmourheid, Hidden, Ciderslider, alexanderjwatts, Hidden, Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 181
hard HVS0 of 63
HVS0 of 63
easy HVS7 of 63
hard VS39 of 63
VS17 of 63
easy VS0 of 63
hard HS0 of 63
HS0 of 63
easy HS0 of 63
hard 5a0 of 62
5a0 of 62
easy 5a5 of 62
hard 4c37 of 62
4c19 of 62
easy 4c0 of 62
hard 4b1 of 62
4b0 of 62
easy 4b0 of 62
3 Stars7 of 56
2 Stars31 of 56
1 Star18 of 56
0 Stars0 of 56
Bag of .....0 of 56
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Style of ascent

Lead50 of 175 (28.6%)
Followed24 of 175 (13.7%)
Alt Leads93 of 175 (53.1%)
Unknown8 of 175 (4.6%)

'Climbed'55 of 175 (31.4%)
clean O/S96 of 175 (54.9%)
clean β2 of 175 (1.1%)
clean rpt17 of 175 (9.7%)
dogged1 of 175 (0.6%)
dnf4 of 175 (2.3%)