38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine, sustained outing with good positions which is now climbed in a single pitch. Start 5m right of Heidelberg Creature. Climb steeply up parallel cracks to pass a blocky bulge on the left. Follow the hanging corner above past a large overhang at the fault-line and on up to a small overhang. Step left around an arete and follow a thin crack and shallow groove to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Brain Snell, W.Lyons 6.7.74. FFA. George Hounsome 9.10.77 06/Jul/1974

Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
ASchwirtz 22/May Lead O/S
with Russ
Jus 08/May Lead O/S
with Sue
Hidden 08/May 2nd rpt
mikeyjbs 01/May Lead O/S
with Idoia
LJKing 17/Apr AltLd O/S

Led pitch one, fantastic climb, with out there belay.

with Paul Clarkson
Hidden 02/Apr AltLd
pearson9596 06/Jun/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great route and steady for (Swanage) E2

with Andy O'Conner
stevoland 21/May/15 AltLd O/S

p2

Cheese Monkey 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Rich R
LJC 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mark
Ciderslider 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Absolutely fantastic, had a bit of a mini epic with one of the ropes trapped around the arete (had to leave a piece of gear ) but got it clean. Another quality lead by Super Mario.

with Luca
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Hidden 08/Sep/14 TR
clipskipper 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt

First time as a single pitch. Bit of rope drag on the thin top wall. V small cams a boon!

with Sue Hazel
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
MPSBunny 25/May/14 2nd O/S

First ever clean E2 second (preceded by my first clean E1 second). Awesome route plenty of opportunities for good rests. The final pull around onto the head wall was amazing and had some sweet finger locks.

Brannock 25/May/14 Lead O/S

Good route, soft for E2, sort of steep HVS first pitch into E1 face climbing.

Martin Haworth 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Excellent route, worth 3 stars. Led in a single pitch, crux is the top wall, soft for E2.

with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
clipskipper 03/May/14 2nd β

Just as thin as last time, but better protected than I remember. That'd be those tiny cams, then :-)

with Ro
Marti999 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Been on the start before, but must be the first time ive lead this the right way.

with Debbie
dan gibson 09/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S

In a oner

mes32 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Wilki
AlexD 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

led p2. great wall climbing. decided against the modern single pitch approach after reading comments about rope drag!

with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 28/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with Alex
Graham Westbrook 02/May/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
Monkey_Alan 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Awesome route, very contrasting pitches.

with DAJ Johnson
Helen Gibson 13/Sep/12 Lead

led in one pitch, some rope drag, found the crux being the step around the arete, went to low to start but higher is better. very enjoyable

with Alice
Hidden 13/Sep/12 2nd
BeccaSnowden 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S

A lot of rope drag at top but still very good

with Mike
richardr 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
chris wyatt 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Cool climb. Much care needed with ropes to avoid drag if doing in one pitch

with rich
chakrit 24/May/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 09/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
steveb2006 01/Sep/11 Lead

Initimidating from below

jezb1 07/Apr/11 2nd

P1 only

jacobjlloyd 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

As one pitch. Felt soft. Steady HVS until the pull round the arete, then a short 5b crux up the headwall. Really good fun!

with Dougie
dswansonlow 12/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Sophie Nunn 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S
givemetea 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Louisa
LoopyLou 12/Sep/09 Lead

Good route. Bottom section trickier than it looks, upper headwall steady and more exposed. No single desperate move and reasonable gear.

with Roslyn
clipskipper 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Nice moves out onto and then up the face on pitch 2. Gear not as good as it could have been, but made up for it with sheer recklessness!

with Davey Boy
davenev 16/Apr/09 2nd

Awesome climb - great moves throughout - strenuous top had to pull on the last draw to remove the bomber gear below.

with luke
Mr Tickle 16/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Crux at top- very strenuous. Loads of gear. Great climb

with davenev
Ed Babs 21/Feb/09 Lead RP

it's all in the top wall

with Harry
Different Steve 29/Sep/08 2nd O/S

A minor epic in 4 pitches not helped by the incorrect Rockfax topo which shows the belay too low.

with Guy Reid
Bern ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S

in 1 pitch

with Andy Mos
dan gibson 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
tonanf ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S

think i went a bit high into the roof, saw LOADS of abandoned gear (retreats?), alex coined the phrase cam graveyard!

with arpollard
The Jazz Butcher 28/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
Roget 02/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/Nov/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Oct/89 Lead
with steve kerr
Nigel Coe 02/Nov/86 -
with Tim Dunsby
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, andycash, charley, islandlynx, hutchay, Ash Sayers, Hidden, Owen W-G, Ceridwen, Different Steve, Hidden
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set