Dorset > Boulder Ruckle >
 
Tatra (before 2014 rockfall)** VS 5a

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<< Vysoke Tatry (Tatra Direct - new top pitch)
 
Tatra (after 2014 rockfall) >>
46m, 3 pitches. The best VS in Boulder Ruckle. Well protected, but at the very upper limit of the grade. Start on a ledge below a large sentry box. 1) 5a, 18m. Climb up until a move right can be made to the base of a crack in the right wall of the sentry box. Climb the crack and pull right to an easing at the right-hand side of the overhang above. Follow the steep crack to a ledge and belay. 2) 4b, 10m. Move right along a foot-ledge to a short vertical crack. Pull up the crack to the break and make a strenuous traverse along this to a ledge and belay just around the arete. 3) 4c, 22m. Climb the large corner above the belay via some wide bridging to a ledge and finish up a short, steep corner. © ROCKFAX
The first pitch has been destroy in a large rockfall. reclimbed on 11th Jan 2014 graded E1 5b now.
FA. Barry Annette, P.Kemp pre 1963

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Rockfax West Country top 50, Orange Spot Swanage.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 213 logbooks, and on 16 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jan/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 30/Nov/13

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Ian

A great climb which very nearly merits HVS. Pitch 2 is committing for the second.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/13

Ended up leading all three pitches. This is a total sandbag at VS - the 2-3 moves out of the sentry box are hard, and the moves on the traverse although easy are committing and not easy to protect (from a fall onto the ledge) and then just when you think it's all over in steps P3 !!
Ciderslider - Lead - 11/Aug/13 with Ben

steveprice.exmouth - 2nd - 01/Aug/13 with David Coley

duzinga - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Omer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/13

1,3
LukeyG - AltLd - 30/Jun/13

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with alex malins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/13

Led P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/13 with Lawrence Dudley

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/13

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Dan Browne

Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Floris

Led P2
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13 with Alan Blanchflower

Led P1,P3. Committing moves at the start of P1.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 18/May/13 with Julian Prieto

Enjoyable epic for the 2nd. Good route and interesting for the grade. Not one for the novice VS leader!
haydng - Lead rpt - 08/May/13 with Dave R

Hidden - AltLd dog - 06/May/13

fantastic route and definitely not a soft touch!interest all the way through!in my top ten routes i would say!
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Arul, ross garfoot

Led P1, P3 2nd P2
tedburt - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Aaron Burdett

Georgia H - 2nd - May/13

Peter Lovell - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13

adam 24 - 2nd - 20/Apr/13

Dogged the first pitch after having completely numb fingers from a very cold start & trying to extract cams in that condition. P1 felt steep & cruxy. P2 is a fun traverse, 1 cam before you start the traverse and 1 more halfway. P3 is excellent & worth 3 stars! Need to keep hands warm in cold weather and need to not leave six months between trad climbing trips!
budchawla - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Alexander Orlov

leglesslizard - AltLd O/S - Apr/13

Rockwarrior - Lead O/S - Feb/13 with Shabad Chawla

ianto - 2013

Leo49 - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/12

I got pitch 2, Stephen P1 and P3.
crispycodd - AltLd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Stephen Venables

I led P1 after a bit of faffing, chris did P2 and P3. Thought the hard stuff was over after P1 but unfortunately rock not so good afterwards. P3 could do with some new pegs.
louby - AltLd - 22/Sep/12 with Chris Burn

Scotsken - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/12 with Si Ball

Good route with Average rock. Thought pitches 2 and 3 were slightly serious feel sorry for the novice vs leader on this.
Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Mike(Dad)

Hidden - Lead - Sep/12

I thought this was quite a serious route. 2nd pitch - traverse is not well protected and there is a ledge to bounce off all the way across. 3rd pitch - rusty old peg protects unless you have LARGE cam with another ledge to bounce off should you fail. Not for a timid leader, even though the climbing is quite straight forwards
Kevster - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Tony Johnson

tonevert - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Kevin Faux

A very intimidating and stiff introduction to the delights of the Boulder Ruckle. Johnny led pitches 1 and 3. 1 was tough and 2 was really scary and hard to protect.
mattyork2 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Johnny Richard

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 05/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jul/12

mc fifi - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/12

paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Will I Am

will moy - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with paul taylor

funsized - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with Fi

Amazing climb. on the first pitch make sure you belay to the right of the ledge (facing in)so you can watch the leader on the traverse. have either massive cams for the last pitch, or very small wires for near the rusty peg.
carl_123 - Lead O/S - 31/May/12

ali macphee - AltLd - 31/May/12

chakrit - Lead O/S - 24/May/12

Very tough! worthy of HVS 5a?
Piers Harley - AltLd - 19/May/12 with Jeremy Windsor

musgravet - 2nd O/S - 11/May/12 with Olly P, Doug Wilkie

Hidden - Lead β - 11/May/12

first multipitch. Good weather. One fall on easy top section!
Doug Wilkie - 2nd dog - 11/May/12 with Tom Musgrave

My intro to 'the Ruckle'. Led pitch 2. A great route and mini adventure
Antony87 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mark Lowe

Bit of a sandbag at VS but then i guess pumpy VS isn't unusual in swanage. Good climbing on the 1st and 3rd pitches, slightly let down by the dusty ledge crawl of the 2nd. Definitely more than I expected..
Alan100 - AltLd - 15/Apr/12

Dogged the first pitch. Climbed the third clean
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd dog - 15/Apr/12 with Alan Murray

P1+3
LJC - 13/Apr/12 with ben.richards

Two great pitches separated by a less-than-worth it pitch of 4b. Unfortunately if your swinging leads then one of you gets all the good bits and the the other gets the scraps...I was this person! Definitely gonna go back and lead P1 & P3 as they were really fun.
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Luca Celano

luke led p1,me p2,3 Stiff for VS!little out of practice on the steep stuff but p1 tough.traverse straight foreward but still delicate.the final corners awkward but secure-very enjoyable...p1 warrants HVS?the gear is there if youve the strength to hang about and place it,and the holds are there too,if you can find them!def top end VS at least.
tomshanti - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Luke Partridge

LukeyG - Lead - 31/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/12

John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with Oli Brend

owb106 - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/12 with John Tanner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/12

Simon backed off 2nd pitch, so reused his placements...sketchy nonetheless!
stefano_nunes - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/12

Led pitch 2
halfwaythere - AltLd dog - 07/Jan/12 with brad

PAJames - 2012

Ian JL - 2012

Chris p1, Sian p2, Chris p3
Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Sian Hughes

sian88 - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead - 14/Oct/11

Each pitch is very stiff for the grade - definitely HVS. Be careful on pitch 2!
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - Oct/11 with Matt Jackson

martin one - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - Sep/11

led 1st and third pitch.
halfwaythere - AltLd dog - 29/Aug/11 with alex

Led all pitches. P1 Soaking wet.
TommityP - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/11

An excellent route, jamming, bridging, lay-backing its got it all, plus a traverse! top of the grade but well protected.
petegunn - AltLd - 09/Aug/11 with Davina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11

RD P1 - Patrick's birthday
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Patrick

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/11

P1&3
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Frank C

Ceridwen - AltLd rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Matt Hot rock

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 26/Jun/11 with Kerry

4 pitches this time, the first being the desperate running jumping traverse around to the start courtesy of the big crashing sea - all three survived, phew. Andy's bonzer lead on pitch one (there were two in place stuck cams which me and Ian unaware got pretty shagged trying to extract). I lead pitch 2 which was just as hard as last time although done in alternative grovelling (style?) in the break. Andy took a flyer when a hold broke but heroicaly, a little skinned and bloody, led the next cheeky but lovely (a bit like myself) pitch. Finished in traditional fashion sans daylight.
mikehenesy - AltLd - 23/Jun/11 with Andy Forsyth, Ian Holloway

a lasting memory and one the happyist moments in climbing when we made it out. leading..........i'll think about it
norb - 2nd O/S - Jun/11

P1 and P3 - P3 feels bold
31770 - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Darrell Read

Darrell Read - AltLd - 17/Apr/11 with Oliver Mentz

dickie01 - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Joe Heasman

mind the dead crow jammed behind a flake near the top!! my hand touched its head - gah!
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Alex

jtree03 - AltLd - 21/Mar/11 with jonathan, dazza

An experience! Had to leave jammed cam on exit from sentry box ...could not shift it, but got good and knackered trying. Then led the traverse in awkward style finishing with a grovelling crawl along the break, top pitch went OK! Probably does just merit HVS, but wasn't the E grade sandbag I'd been imagining from its reputation.
The Ivanator - AltLd - 19/Mar/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 19/Mar/11 with Ivan Bicknell

And I thought Heidelberg Creature was steep...
haydng - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with John

brian watson - AltLd rpt - 14/Jun/10 with gary mason

Lead 1st, Tom lead 2nd and 3rd. Nice route, if a little wandering. Would get 3 stars but for the contrived traverse pitch.
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/10 with Tom Smart

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Tim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/10

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/10

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Rich

Led 2nd pitch.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Frodo Stickel

Lead pitch 1 and 3. Great climb, keeps throwing surprises at you one after the other...3rd pitch is just fun
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Alan B

Hard 1st pitch! Felt more like HVS to me!
Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Feb/10

Dhonny_Jaws - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Michael Porter

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

Jane Weir - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Sep/09

colkurtz - AltLd - 07/Sep/09 with Robb

ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen

what an epic, got totally shagged out on the first pich taking out gear so had to aid climb the hard bit, then was too pumped to lead the second pitch only just managed it, and did the last pitch in the pitch black with a head torch and really enjoyed the last pitch would climb the last pitch again but not the first too, well harder than vs
Ben Sidsaph - 2nd dog - 17/Aug/09 with Mike Hennesey

Good stuff, loads of pro all the way on 1st and 3rd pitch. 2nd pitch surprisingly demanding if your forearms are trollied getting up the first. 3rd pitch done in the eerie glow of LED's. Note:-never leave your headtorch behind if you're climbing with Henesy!
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/09 with Ben Sidsaph

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09

andy jennings - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Big A

mark89 - AltLd - 17/Jun/09

sgl - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Jez

jezb1 - 2nd - 04/Jun/09

JPGR - AltLd O/S - Jun/09 with Paul

Third pitch more like 4c
petegruf - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with LozM

Top pitch more like 4c!
LozM - 2nd - 09/May/09 with Pete M

Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Mark

Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - Apr/09 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 31/Mar/09

led p2 only, VS my arse!!!!!
davenev - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with luke

Led P1 and P3. Definitly a hard HVS
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/09 with davenev

Wrecked on pitch 1, and rested. Luke not happy on P2, so I led all three in the end. Last was great.
cmsg - Lead dog - 21/Feb/09 with Luke Gannarelli

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - Nov/08

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/08 with Tom Robinson

Tom Robinson - 2nd - 22/Oct/08 with David King

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/08

great route on all three pitches. I lead 1st and 3rd, felt wasted on the crux of pitch one. felt harder than VS to me.
MontyH - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/08 with Brian

1st ever trad route 2nd lead.
theone - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/08 with rik dawes

cherad - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08

Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/08

timharrison - Lead rpt - 18/May/08 with Johan Aukerstrom

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/08 with jacquie robinson

Hidden - 2008

One of the hardest Vs at swanage surely!
tobydunford - 2nd O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Harry Martin

Led P2, P3
Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 23/Sep/07 with Guy Reid

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/07

scary biscuits! great fun though.
riddle - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/07 with Lee

+ 01 Mar 12 with Tom (p1)
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Kate

I lead second and third pitches as a single pitch. Should be rated HVS not VS.
jchenoweth - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Fat Alan

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 10/May/07

Richard White - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Aug/06

winter_burn - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/06

Really great route, I led the first and third pitches. Mike fell off on the second when a hold broke in his hand.
timharrison - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06 with Mike Clifford

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/06

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

chrisbevins - Lead O/S - 2006

brian watson - Lead O/S - 2006 with Jeff Yaldren

Hidden - Lead - Sep/05

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 20/May/05 with Ben Gilbert

Only did top pitch - nice.
steve taylor - 2nd β - 01/May/05 with Scott Titt

Boxy - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/05 with Vince

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005

feilx - 2005

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 2005

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/04

D,M,M
Marq - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/04 with Daniel Dennehy

Backed off
Jason Gotel - Lead - Aug/04 with Pippa Lansdown

Haglington - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Sandy Ogilvie

Alaric - 2nd - 25/Apr/04 with Pete F, Paul L

benjino - Jan/04

Hidden - 2nd - Nov/03

five - Lead O/S - Nov/03

Led p 1 & 3
cem - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/03 with Graham Dolman

James B - Lead - 31/Aug/03 with Nigel

furry - 2nd - 27/Aug/02 with Phil B

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/02

Led P1 & P2
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Mervyn Lamacraft

First two pitches tough - last one nice
andyfeds - Lead dog - 2002 with Andy C

Hidden - 2001

MoWalker3 - 01/Jun/00 with Dave

aged_ape - Jun/00 with Simon Oliver

climbtim - AltLd - 17/Mar/00 with ghost

Stone Muppet - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Oct/99

WB - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/98 with Guy

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Oct/98

chris sm - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/97 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1996

kp64zl - Lead - Oct/95 with Justin S, Simon V

colin milton - AltLd - 27/Aug/95 with eric milton

Dringo - 1995

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Okecroak - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/92 with M Mercy

sdht - 1992 with Dave Ward

mark-abz - Lead - 13/Jan/90 with Simon K

jasper11 - 1990

Gripping pitch 1.
eroica64 - AltLd - 29/Jan/89 with Denis Crampton

steve taylor - AltLd - Jul/88 with Martin Stansbury

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 05/Mar/88 with David

DDDD - AltLd - 1986 with Chris Brown

bullybones - AltLd - Oct/85

I led pitch 1.
ill_bill - AltLd - 1985 with Steve Newman

GuyM - 1985

Hidden - 1985

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 02/May/82 with Tim Dunsby

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 14/Sep/80 with Dave Kyle

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 02/Sep/79 with Frank Farrell

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 01/Nov/78 with Gerry Dunford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mayo, Hidden, Hidden, JCAshman, gilmourheid, Steve27, Master Chief, benny b, johnpr, Richard Morgan, SuseH, Hidden, Warren Earle, Tom Gadsden, Hidden, Oli

Voting
Total votes cast 277
hard HVS0 of 101
HVS3 of 101
easy HVS73 of 101
hard VS21 of 101
VS4 of 101
easy VS0 of 101
hard HS0 of 101
HS0 of 101
easy HS0 of 101
hard 5b0 of 95
5b0 of 95
easy 5b2 of 95
hard 5a57 of 95
5a34 of 95
easy 5a2 of 95
hard 4c0 of 95
4c0 of 95
easy 4c0 of 95
3 Stars17 of 81
2 Stars54 of 81
1 Star7 of 81
0 Stars3 of 81
Bag of .....0 of 81
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Style of ascent

Lead54 of 213 (25.4%)
Followed22 of 213 (10.3%)
Alt Leads114 of 213 (53.5%)
Unknown23 of 213 (10.8%)

'Climbed'84 of 213 (39.4%)
clean O/S108 of 213 (50.7%)
clean β2 of 213 (0.9%)
clean rpt10 of 213 (4.7%)
dogged9 of 213 (4.2%)