Marmolata Buttress** E3 5c
[Marmolata Buttress Abseil, 3 kb]35m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A gnarly first pitch leads to fine and varied climbing on the east face of the buttress.
1) 5c, 12m. Start as for the last route then climb a thin crack with difficulty to a large ledge on the seaward face.
2) 5b, 15m. Traverse around the corner to a groove leading to the fault-line. Traverse right again to a second groove which leads onto a ledge. Belay in the corner.
3) 5b, 15m. Step left out onto the wall where a lovely flake system leads to the top. © ROCKFAX

FA. G.Smith, Richard Crewe 2.6.73. FFA. George Hounsome, Scott Titt 20.11.77 02/Jun/1973

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs.

Photo: Marmolata Buttress Abseil © trevor macalonan
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 29 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

p1+3. Peg on p2 is in shocking condition
LJC - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/15 with Greg

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/15 with Mark Condon, Ian Faulkner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/14

ianto - 2013

Ian led pitches 1 & 3 (luckily for me!). Onsighted pitch 2 but fairly desperately! Great climb, very atmospheric.
nickdonohue - AltLd - Sep/12 with Ian Bryant

On a sunt as i got my absail rope stuck and climbed out! I had the impression it was hvs but didn't look in the guide book. Must stay away from the demon drink before climbing.
Andy Peak 1 - TR - 03/Mar/12 with Ted Piper

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with chris gee

Done in one epic pitch ***
feilx - 2nd rpt - 16/Apr/11 with Andy L

3 pitches in 1. Rationed the gear throughout, pitch 3 done with last 4 quickdraws.
La Mont - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with felix coxwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11

gnarly P1 is right - steep, sustained + hard to place gear - dnf with Tom Thorne 01/07/10
Ed Babs - Lead RP - 04/Jul/10 with Trevor

trev_f - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Jul/10

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

Hidden - 2009

JimR - 2nd - May/08 with Bern

led all 3 pitches.
Bern - Lead O/S - May/08 with Jim

led middle 5b pitch
sadams - AltLd - 24/Feb/08 with Eric Hildrew

feilx - Lead O/S - Apr/06 with Ian Lovatt

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

In one pitch.
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/05

ellis - AltLd O/S - May/05 with Dan Rowles

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Roget - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/98 with jon

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1991 with Jon Cook

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 30/Sep/89 with Tim Dunsby

Approx date
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1985 with Pete Oxley

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Longsufferingropeholder, Mark Warnett, Ash Sayers

Total votes cast 27
hard E40 of 9
E40 of 9
easy E40 of 9
hard E31 of 9
E36 of 9
easy E32 of 9
hard E20 of 9
E20 of 9
easy E20 of 9
hard 6a0 of 9
6a0 of 9
easy 6a0 of 9
hard 5c1 of 9
5c8 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 9
5b0 of 9
easy 5b0 of 9
3 Stars4 of 9
2 Stars5 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat
Clean RP