The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches - the first is for those who like to get stuck into a bit of chimneying/squirming.
1) 5b, 18m. Climb the chimney to a large belay ledge.
2) 5b, 15m. Step left out onto the wall where a lovely flake system leads to the top. This is the third pitch of Marmolata Buttress. © Rockfax
SW Climbs - Swanage , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge , Routes for MCI , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Kiddie68 | 8 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Top rope solo. I knew I’d done this in the past, but still found it hard. The first pitch is fantastic, with chicken wings and how-the-hell-do-you-do-this thrutching. Swanage’s best offwidth! Second pitch totally different with fierce fingery moves to get established. Probably E2. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Top rope solo. I knew I’d done this in the past, but still found it hard. The first pitch is fantastic, with chicken wings and how-the-hell-do-you-do-this thrutching. Swanage’s best offwidth! Second pitch totally different with fierce fingery moves to get established. Probably E2. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)