Director's Groove* HVS 5a
35m, 2 pitches. This rather worrying route starts up a wide groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in). 1) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove, passing a roof on the right, then move left to gain an arete. Traverse diagonally right to belay below a wide crack. Awkward belays. 2) 4c, 15m. Follow the wide crack to the top. Poor gear. © ROCKFAX
FA. D.Hadlum, P.Grainger 10.4.66 10/Apr/1966
PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 90 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Chris led in one pitch. Roof felt really hard.
bigbobbyking - 2nd O/S - 25/May/14 with Chris Bull

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Apr/14

P2 of Ashes and Diamonds. CC SW climbs has this down as VS 4c. Thought it felt bloody hard! Good lead from Iggy
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Iggy

andycash - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Ash

Led P2.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/14 with Mike Moss

markfromstoke - AltLd - 29/Dec/13 with Ian

ian d f - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/13 with Mark

Well. Thought we were at Subluminal and we were wrong. Set up a hanging belay at the second belay ledge, and had an interesting climb back up. All in all a hard adventure which should have never happened.
JoeCoxson - Lead dnf - 30/Nov/13 with Felix Gillies-Creasey

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/13

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/13 with Joshua Leak

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13

Fab route with excellent route finding & variety of terrain
torsok - 2nd - 15/Jun/13 with Nic

patrickc - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Sue

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

P1 feels hard but I the roof direct without the traverse left to the arete. P2 is good quality climbing - surprised to find a big splitter off-width. Can be hard to protect unless your partner cleverly remembered to bring 2x number 5 cams :)
budchawla - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/13 with Alexander Orlov

Rockwarrior - Lead O/S - Feb/13 with Shabad Chawla

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

As one single pitch. Had a problem getting out a Friend by the overhang. But the move left above the overhang was not too bad. The top offwidth crack was quite nice but required concentration all the way.
crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Stephen Venables

Robin Woodward - Lead - Sep/12

Alex the Alex - 2nd - Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 27/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/12

Robin Woodward - Lead - Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

LukeyG - Lead - 29/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12

chakrit - Lead O/S - 10/May/12

led first pitch after partner had placed some of the gear
nigel pearson - AltLd β - 19/Nov/11 with Robin

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 20/Sep/11 with Pete

wi11 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Graham Westbrook

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with wi11

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11

Led P1. Tricky moves around the roof, then a poorly-protected and loose P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Tom Thorne

Nice offwidth action on P2...the description says "poor gear" however I managed to get some good protection in the form of two stacked hexes deep in the crack, which made the last few moves a little less daunting!
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Luca Celano

P1. Easy going until the overhanging corner where there were some very awkward moves to place gear before moving left onto the face. Great little right traverse before the ledge - awkward belay spot, but managed to sit down. Dive bombed by a bird (possibly nesting on Elysium) which decided to scrabble at my helmet and shat on my legs - thanks a bunch!
LJC - 25/Apr/11 with ben.richards

Tricky roof forms the crux on the bottom section, with the not-so-difficult-as-it-looks crack at the top. Nice enough route
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Pete Amy, Matt Perks

halfwaythere - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

P2, very nice route only placed 3 runners and went for it.
jezb1 - AltLd - 07/Apr/11

I climbed the second pitch
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11

Great fun getting between the roof and the arete - nice feeling of exposure but with good gear :)
Alan100 - 03/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/11

Led p1
cem - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Graham Dolman

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Apr/10

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

I lead the first pitch (5a) quite tricky getting round the overhang. Felt 'out there' but the fun was all over when I realised the arette was within reach and I didn't have to go straight up.
RocknRoll - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Peter Murphy

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with John Vet

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/08

chrisbevins - 2nd - 2007

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/06 with jamie evans

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/05

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005

feilx - 2005

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - Nov/04

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 01/Aug/04 with DAJ, Clare Francis

D,M
Marq - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/04 with Daniel Dennehy

benjino - Jan/04

Boxy - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/03 with Mick

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/02

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/00 with Miles Butteriss

Hidden - Lead - 2000

five - AltLd dog - May/98

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Aug/95 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead - 1994

finished up Ashes and Diamonds
kp64zl - AltLd - Jan/92 with Keith

sdht - 1992 with Dave Ward

mark-abz - Lead - 29/Apr/90 with Simon K

steve taylor - AltLd - Mar/90 with Ket

VS 4c in the 1986 guide
Pete Nugent - 26/Mar/89

Nigel Coe - Lead - 12/Aug/88 with Duncan Turner

RichardMc - AltLd - 21/Jun/86 with Steve Gould

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 18/May/80 with Steve Portnoi

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 01/Nov/78 with Gerry Dunford

Nigel Coe - Lead - 08/Oct/78 with John Walmsley

Dave Musgrove - 01/Dec/74 with Keith Butler

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
john_mx

Voting
Total votes cast 73
hard E10 of 27
E10 of 27
easy E10 of 27
hard HVS16 of 27
HVS11 of 27
easy HVS0 of 27
hard VS0 of 27
VS0 of 27
easy VS0 of 27
hard 5b0 of 25
5b0 of 25
easy 5b1 of 25
hard 5a16 of 25
5a8 of 25
easy 5a0 of 25
hard 4c0 of 25
4c0 of 25
easy 4c0 of 25
3 Stars0 of 21
2 Stars5 of 21
1 Star12 of 21
0 Stars4 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf