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Director's Groove* HVS 5a

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Freddy >>
35m, 2 pitches. This rather worrying route starts up a wide groove in the wall just right of the abseil line (looking in). 1) 5a, 25m. Climb the groove, passing a roof on the right, then move left to gain an arete. Traverse diagonally right to belay below a wide crack. Awkward belays. 2) 4c, 15m. Follow the wide crack to the top. Poor gear. © ROCKFAX
FA. D.Hadlum, P.Grainger 10.4.66 10/Apr/1966
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

P1 feels hard but I the roof direct without the traverse left to the arete. P2 is good quality climbing - surprised to find a big splitter off-width. Can be hard to protect unless your partner cleverly remembered to bring 2x number 5 cams :)
budchawla - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/13 with Alexander Orlov

As one single pitch. Had a problem getting out a Friend by the overhang. But the move left above the overhang was not too bad. The top offwidth crack was quite nice but required concentration all the way.
crispycodd - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Stephen Venables

Robin UK - Lead - Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/12

LukeyG - Lead - 29/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12

led first pitch after partner had placed some of the gear
nigel pearson - AltLd β - 19/Nov/11 with Robin

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 20/Sep/11 with Pete

wi11 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Graham Westbrook

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with wi11

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

Tom Thorne - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Alan Blanchflower

Led P1. Tricky moves around the roof, then a poorly-protected and loose P2.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 21/May/11 with Tom Thorne

Nice offwidth action on P2...the description says "poor gear" however I managed to get some good protection in the form of two stacked hexes deep in the crack, which made the last few moves a little less daunting!
ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Luca Celano

P1. Easy going until the overhanging corner where there were some very awkward moves to place gear before moving left onto the face. Great little right traverse before the ledge - awkward belay spot, but managed to sit down. Dive bombed by a bird (possibly nesting on Elysium) which decided to scrabble at my helmet and shat on my legs - thanks a bunch!
LJC - 25/Apr/11 with ben.richards

Tricky roof forms the crux on the bottom section, with the not-so-difficult-as-it-looks crack at the top. Nice enough route
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Pete Amy, Matt Perks

halfwaythere - 2nd - 09/Apr/11

P2, very nice route only placed 3 runners and went for it.
jezb1 - AltLd - 07/Apr/11

I climbed the second pitch
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11

Great fun getting between the roof and the arete - nice feeling of exposure but with good gear :)
Alan100 - 03/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/11

cem - AltLd rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Graham Dolman

Theeni - AltLd O/S - Apr/10

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08

I lead the first pitch (5a) quite tricky getting round the overhang. Felt 'out there' but the fun was all over when I realised the arette was within reach and I didn't have to go straight up.
RocknRoll - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Peter Murphy

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with John Vet

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/08

chrisbevins - 2nd - 2007

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/06 with jamie evans

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/05

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 2005

feilx - 2005

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - Nov/04

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 01/Aug/04 with DAJ, Clare Francis

D,M
Marq - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/04 with Daniel Dennehy

benjino - Jan/04

Boxy - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/03 with Mick

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/02

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 22/Oct/00 with Miles Butteriss

Hidden - Lead - 2000

five - AltLd dog - May/98

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Aug/95 with eric milton

sdht - 1992 with Dave Ward

mark-abz - Lead - 29/Apr/90 with Simon K

steve taylor - AltLd - Mar/90 with Ket

VS 4c in the 1986 guide
Pete Nugent - 26/Mar/89

RichardMc - AltLd - 21/Jun/86 with Steve Gould

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 01/Nov/78 with Gerry Dunford

Dave Musgrove - 01/Dec/74 with Keith Butler

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
john_mx, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 66
hard E10 of 24
E10 of 24
easy E10 of 24
hard HVS14 of 24
HVS10 of 24
easy HVS0 of 24
hard VS0 of 24
VS0 of 24
easy VS0 of 24
hard 5b0 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b1 of 22
hard 5a15 of 22
5a6 of 22
easy 5a0 of 22
hard 4c0 of 22
4c0 of 22
easy 4c0 of 22
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars5 of 20
1 Star11 of 20
0 Stars4 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead19 of 60 (31.7%)
Followed7 of 60 (11.7%)
Alt Leads25 of 60 (41.7%)
Unknown9 of 60 (15.0%)

'Climbed'28 of 60 (46.7%)
clean O/S26 of 60 (43.3%)
clean β1 of 60 (1.7%)
clean rpt2 of 60 (3.3%)
dogged3 of 60 (5.0%)