Lightning Wall*** HVS 4c
[Debbie on Lightning Wall (HVS 4C), 3 kb]38m. An intimidating, but essential tick of the Boulder Ruckle which can be climbed in two pitches. Start below a groove, just left of a deep corner 25m from the base of the abseil. Enter the groove and follow it to the fault-line. Move right and up through a bulge into a short corner (possible belay). Move right onto the wall above the roof and traverse this up rightwards on good holds to the arete. Follow the arete to a niche, old peg, move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. G.Smith, A.Webster 10.4.66 10/Apr/1966

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20, Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Photo: Debbie on Lightning Wall (HVS 4C) © Kafoozalem
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 388 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/14 with Matt Prince

cdpuk - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Julian Bridle

Done in two pitches.
John Sheehan - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/14 with David Coley

Done in one pitch. found the crux hard this time - must be unfit. Great climb.
Dave Mahon - Lead - 25/Oct/14 with Justin Sharpe

Pero - AltLd - 09/Sep/14

Hidden - TR - 08/Sep/14

Buccaneerbilly - 2nd - 03/Sep/14 with Tom Boeckx, Michael Henesy

2nd Pitch.
JM - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/14 with Stevo

stevoland - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/14 with John

In one big pitch (messed up the ropework). Varied climbing, with the crux in an unexpected place.
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Emily

Really varied and cool climbing. Had a minor wobble after taking out a piece of gear just before the first short traverse, but kept it together and stayed on.
Emily - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Nick

nige pacer - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Mike Lea

Kirill - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/14 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 02/Aug/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/14

climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14 with Andy

Amazing route done in two pitches.
joedoherty - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Matt Prince

Led 2nd Pitch HVS 5a
mattprince - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Joe Doherty

khalidq - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Jon Leighton

Gavdee1 - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14 with Kev

Kevster - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/14 with Gavin Dee

jonleighton - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

andycash - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Ash

Led P2
Joemanglerocks - 2nd - 15/Jun/14 with TimKnight

Committing moves into the traverse, but otherwise quite steady
TimKnight - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/14 with Paul Anker

Got up the corner but lost all nerve when standing at the start of the traverse which had a distinct lack of protection. Spent a lot of time shouting to be lowered and eventually another climbing was able to relay the message to John. John abbed for gear and a couple of minutes after touching down we saw a guy (Roger) take a ground fall on Elysium. Called for rescue and got a lift boat team to help him and a helicopter to winch him out. Found out afterwards that it was bruised ribs and nothing more.
MPSBunny - 2nd dnf - 25/May/14 with John Brannock

Quality
Brannock - Lead O/S - 25/May/14

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Chris Gooder

Not hard, but exposed.
Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Duncan Campbell - 2nd - 05/May/14 with Bubbles

adam 24 - 2nd rpt - 05/May/14 with Stuart Johnston

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

Billg - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Alan Rosier

The move out from the half-height belay stance is exposed for the grade.
clipskipper - 2nd β - 03/May/14 with Ro

Well good
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Iggy

Nice route rolled into one pitch. Tried to go straight up at the traverse and got quite pumped for some reason.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Ben

andycash - 2nd - 18/Apr/14 with Ash

Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

will moy - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/14 with Nutt

found it very hard but not very good at jamming
mattc - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/14 with sue

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14

Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Alex Dennis

AlexD - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Monkey Alan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/14

cymjt - 2014

markfromstoke - 2nd - 29/Dec/13 with Ian

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Dec/13

ian d f - Lead rpt - 29/Dec/13 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Dec/13

Dizz - Lead O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Tom

Tubs - 2nd O/S - 30/Nov/13 with Liz F

Really good route, didn't find the crux too hard but it is pretty sustained, the final headwall section soon after the traverse is a bit spooky and probably worth HVS 4c in its self. Glad to get it clean this time. felt like a lovely warm sunny day, too hot in troos n t shirt despite being 9 deg c.
CurlyStevo - Lead - 17/Nov/13 with paulus

mike.moss - 2nd rpt - 16/Nov/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/13 with Mike Moss

Ab'd in intending to warm up on nearby VS's. Sea too big to access any, and David C got impressively drenched by a big wave, so we escaped back up Lightning Wall. Same as last visit ...
petecallaghan - Lead rpt - 10/Nov/13 with Jamie Trump, David Coley

Escaped the Ruckle with only minor drenching
Jamiet297 - 2nd O/S - 10/Nov/13 with David Coley, Pete Callaghan

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 04/Nov/13

agh!!! hard traverse as second, incommunicado....
winter hill1 - 2nd - 03/Nov/13

Paul Eckton - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/13 with Joshua Leak

An epic that ended with a coastguard rescue after dark.
The Ivanator - 2nd dnf - 22/Sep/13 with Stevo

Damp and greasy conditions and took a long time to lead with rest but got there in the end. Ivan unable to reach the cliff top in the final hour of light and had to be resucued by the coastcard. Gear returned by scott tit bmc president!
CurlyStevo - Lead dog - 22/Sep/13 with Ivanator

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Clare

Nick Clement - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13 with mandy clement

Not sure how to classify the style...first half climbed on Owen's gear, second half on my own. Great route.
Matt77 - Lead β - 03/Aug/13 with Owen

Struggled at crux move rightwards so stupidly went directly up through bulges above the break and got stuck, dithered for 15mins trying not to panic but eventually jumped off when all other options evaporated. All a bit stressful. Matt led without drama but i still found crux tricky. Mojo notable by its absence all w/e.
Owen W-G - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/13 with Preston Matt

Tom Livingstone - 2nd β - 29/Jul/13 with Dan Lane

Dound this desperate, probably due to the 98% humidity. Water was almost dripping off the holds! Great route though.
Dan Lane - Lead dog - 29/Jul/13 with Tom Livingstone

Geoffers - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Tim

Luxulyan - 2nd - 20/Jul/13 with Tom Murrell

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 20/Jul/13 with Sarp

With Strong Sophie Nunn
sarpedon - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/13

colkurtz - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Robb

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jun/13

GPN - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Annette

net - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with George

petegruf - 2nd - 30/Jun/13 with kasha

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/13

Brilliant!
mes32 - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Wilki

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Jun/13

Superb adventurous feel and demanding on technical capabilities
torsok - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/13 with Nic

pearson9596 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Pete Hiscox, Ian Faulkner

ian d f - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Michael P, Pete H

Monkey_Alan - 2nd rpt - 09/Jun/13 with Lawrence Dudley

wi11 - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Mat, Vicky H

think i went too high at the traverse; anyway thought it was tough and pumpy
Mark Warnett - Lead O/S - Jun/13

mattc - 2nd dog - 27/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/13

TommyA - 2nd O/S - 12/May/13

Dusty but awesome
Nexonen - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 06/May/13 with Andy J

Tightsgirl - AltLd - 21/Apr/13 with Ali Rose

Good. scary leaving the belay
arose - AltLd - 21/Apr/13 with Hannah Francis

bradfry - 2nd - 21/Apr/13 with Luke

tomB - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Juliette

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Great climb. Very exciting coming out on to the traverse. Brilliant day too.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13 with Roger Kirke

RKirke - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Edward Hastrop

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13

Rockwarrior - Lead O/S - Feb/13 with Shabad Chawla

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Seconded this a couple of years ago, was easier leading it without battling to stop being dragged out on to the traverse. Tim did a better job of seconding it than I'd done.
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Tim Johns

Alex the Alex - Lead - Sep/12

rested on gear just before the move up and onto the traverse as I couldn't work out where to go immediately and there was chalk everywhere. Fantastic climb, first route at Swanage and best route of the day
alastairbegley - Lead dog - 28/Aug/12

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 05/Aug/12

Great route traversing across was the wall on good holds was really fun.
Dave89 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/12 with Ali

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12

Brilliant
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Caroline

CRiddiford - 2nd - 24/Jul/12 with Becca

Jake Young - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Mike

Had to leave Andre's orange nut at the crux after he lobbed on it.
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 15/Jul/12 with Andre Clarke

rd20 - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/12 with Patrick

rd20 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/12 with Patrick

paddygoodwinlondon - Lead - 13/Jul/12 with robert dufton

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with merlin march, Peter Rigby

Robin Woodward - Lead - Jul/12

Diccon lead and kept the rope too tight making it difficult especially at the crux. Still I was climbing like a one armed hippo.
Paul-Michael - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Diccon Proctor, Paul Nurse

will moy - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/12 with paul taylor

paultaylor - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/12 with Will I Am

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/12

Ali.B - 2nd O/S - 30/May/12 with PeterRobers

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12

3 Names - Lead O/S - 19/May/12 with Ed Bulman

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with pep

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 11/May/12

chakrit - Lead O/S - 10/May/12

HVS 4c is a fair grade.
stuaart - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/12 with Louise Atkin, Chris Burn

louby - 2nd - 22/Apr/12 with Chris Burn

chris_B - 2nd rpt - 21/Apr/12 with stuart reeves, Lou Atkin

Simon Allcock - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/12 with Wilki

Superb. Felt a bit hard for grade for a short steep but well-protected section just before the big traverse.
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Paul Evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/12

LukeyG - Lead - 25/Mar/12

tobydunford - Lead rpt - 25/Mar/12 with Kirsty Kerr

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Mar/12

bemdl - 2nd - 17/Mar/12

Monkey_Alan - 2nd rpt - 10/Mar/12 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/12

MarkRyder - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Ed

tonevert - Lead β - 18/Feb/12 with Rob Scott

mark schramm - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Dave C

Ian JL - 2012

clams - 2nd - 2012 with K&PR

wow, what a brilliant adventure.
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11 with Robin

Kevster - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/11

great route
chris_B - Lead - 06/Nov/11 with Lou Atkin

louby - 2nd - 06/Nov/11 with Chris Burn

We abseiled into the Ruckle intending to warm up on Finale Groove and then head to Behemoth. However, despite low tide, the sea was too high for us to reach FG and I got a soaking checking out the access. Instead I lead out on Lightening Wall. A bouldery start lead onto good quality climbing on sandy rock that felt a little insecure. I found the move out of the groove awkward and committing, but well protected. The traverse rightwards over the big roof had little protection, but good gear at the end. Another crux move left out of a groove also felt awkward and committing, but reasonably well protected. Very high quality throughout and a fabulous overhanging position, with the sea crashing in. My two partners got dowsed by a particularly big wave, and Chris had a battle to escape up the route, pumping out pretty early on and prussiking up the rope to overcome the crux. I think it took more than two hours for us to complete it. This was Chris's second day of sea cliff climbing so he definitely got thrown in the deep end with a proper Ruckle experience.
petecallaghan - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Chris Ridger, Nick Donohue

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Oct/11

Great climb, wish I'd led it.
nickdonohue - 2nd - Oct/11 with Pete Callahan, Chris Ridgers

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 24/Sep/11 with Jason

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 20/Sep/11 with Pete

Tom Hill - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Andrew Gee

Must lead this soon! In one pitch. 5a?
jezb1 - 2nd - 01/Sep/11

Andrew Gee - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11 with Tom Hill

First Boulder Ruckle route since Bottomless Buttress 18 years ago; done as one pitch; found the crux tough for the grade, sensational traverse, gripping experience! 50m ropes don't reach stake and back down to cliff edge unless second solos up first few metres
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Marcus

Soaking wet throughout. Led P2.
TommityP - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/11

Wow ! What a fantastic route. Loads of exposure on the move onto the upper wall. Thought I was off of this one at the crux (trying to recover gear), but as soon as I got onto the traverse the holds came thick and fast and i was able to finnish the route. Well chuffed, first HVS (all be it only as a second) - cheers Paul.
Ciderslider - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Paul Davis

Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Andy Combes, Ian Clifford

1st time out climbing for 3 months on something near my best lead grade. Not a great success!
cliffy - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/11 with Julian Prieto, Andrew Combes

Monkey_Alan - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/11 with Alex Dennis

colkurtz - 2nd - 31/Jul/11 with Robb

AlexD - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Monkey Alan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/11

annetweddell - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Jeff

Had previously seconded. Very wet undercling at the crux.
Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/11 with James Bisset

Took a big swing from the crux.
Bisset - 2nd dnf - 24/Jul/11 with Alan Blanchflower

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/11

wi11 - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/11 with Frank C

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/11 with Matt Hot rock, Sophie Nunn

Matthew Robinson - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with Kerry

james.pilbeam - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

tonanf - Lead - 22/Jun/11 with james

Magic route! A must, and what a traverse!
matt.jj - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

Classic.
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - Jun/11 with Matt Jackson

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Trevor

LJC - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with ben.richards

ben.richards - 2nd rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Luca Celano

I climbed the first pitch
Rowan Mitchell - AltLd - 03/Apr/11

Done this a couple of times before but it's good enough to keep repeating. Traverse is nicely exposed without ever being hard - just need to be confident. Don't forget to look down though and enjoy the space under your feet!
Alan100 - 03/Apr/11

wi11 - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with Chris Gee

jtree03 - AltLd - 21/Mar/11 with jonathan, dazza

exciting, adventurous climb.. awesome! i got pitch2 and the main traverse
rustaldo - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Uncle Dave

Great route, tough steep section after the break definitely felt 5a.
The Ivanator - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Stewart

Stewart Armstrong - 19/Mar/11 with Ivan Bicknell

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with Rich

LJC - 2nd O/S - 12/Mar/11 with ben.richards

John Tanner - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with Matt Smith

Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11 with John Tanner

Climbed at 9am without warming up/stretching, got slightly confused by the sequence of moves at the crux just before the traverse, got pumped and rested on the gear. Pondered over the moves whilst relaxing in my harness and then managed to climb it with relative ease. Traverse was brilliant, though no gear through the middle of it. Rock-over onto the arete was very fun indeed. My first HVS ever!
ben.richards - Lead dog - 12/Mar/11 with Luca Celano

Backed off. Had traversed under overhang, then went up a bit, but wasn't in the mood to commit to next moves up & then along the rightward traverse to niche. Too tired, too late & too rubbish at climbing today! Next time...
Chris Sansum - Lead dnf - 05/Mar/11 with Gary Lewin

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Jan/11

climbtim - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Tom Thorne

jasonpm - Lead O/S - 2011 with Steve IMC

Led in one
cem - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Graham Dolman

Climbing of high diversity and quality. Lots of good holds but like most climbs here it's the steepness that gets the grade. Crux is the first few moves after the fault line. The traverse is the easiest bit. Split this into two pitches to reduce rope drag but the belay point was pretty uncomfortable. Would recommend doing it in one pitch with two skinny ropes and long extenders. Defo HVS 5a!
wild_nomad - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Martin Hore

djking1983 - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/10 with Rich Brammall

Bram - Lead - 20/Sep/10 with Dave King

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/10

haydng - Lead rpt - 04/Sep/10 with John

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/10

all my chalk had ran out on a hot day making it tougher. Only one crux probably hard 4c. Sorry again to nick for not placing gear after the hard move before the traverse.
rob askew - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/10 with nick brindley

mrtom - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Mike Moss

First route at The Ruckle. Very impressed with the crag. Adam couldn't follow the crux and with much faff, I had to lower him off, ab down for most of my gear and then climb a VS with him to escape. Took most of the afternoon, but a great route! It is definitely worth 5a as given in the new WCC rockfax.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Adam, Mike Henesy

Simons lead, he seemed took a bit of time over the crux which was fair enough as it seemed def hard 5a. Maybe it was because I was getting pulled hard right on to the traverse when I was trying to go up, or maybe I'm just crap. Had to rearrange some gear so that I didn't take a big swing if I came off. Got shagged doing it and had to clip into a quick draw for a rest. Move ok once I recovered and negociated some slack! Adam couldn'd do the move - and then the fun started!
mikehenesy - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/10 with Adam Hughes, Simon DeHaan

great climb but just too tired.....
django - Lead dnf - 17/Jul/10 with John Rowe

RobRock84 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Kev

cayteye - 2nd dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Kevin Faux

Graham Westbrook - Lead - Jul/10

Kevster - Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Jun/10

risby - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10

Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 20/Jun/10 with Tom Thorne, Mark James

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/10

My first trad lead after a year!
petitflous05 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 15/May/10 with Carol

mick1jones - 2nd dog - 08/May/10

Epic! A pretty serious route in my books. Lovely climbing though.
al99 - Lead O/S - 01/May/10 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - 2nd O/S - 01/May/10 with Al Benson

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - May/10

Hidden - 2nd β - 21/Apr/10

manwithacam - Lead - 14/Mar/10 with Joris

Great climb!. with a breathtaking traverse. Thanks go to whoever left a nr5 wire which made cleaning and jumaring a lot easier
uncontrollable - Solo O/S - 13/Mar/10 with roped solo

Phil Belcher - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Rich

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/10

Jane Weir - Lead - 2010

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 2010

RCrockford - 2nd - 10/Oct/09 with Jonah

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 03/Oct/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd dog - 12/Sep/09

Exciting traverse!
Dave Mahon - 2nd - Aug/09 with Brian Mead

nice route- strong line. went a bit too far left at cruxy bit, so had to traverse a bit further right that was neccessary.
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 12/Jul/09 with david coley

PilarMartinez - Lead dog - 12/Jul/09 with TheCherokee

sgl - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Jez

Quality, look forward to leading it.
jezb1 - 2nd - 18/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/09

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/09 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd β - 20/May/09

mark89 - AltLd O/S - 20/May/09

garywong - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Patrick Goodwin

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/09

Traverse was scary on second. Looked like death on lead...
The_Boy_ODwyer - 2nd - 01/Apr/09 with Rob

robertporter - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with James O'Dwyer

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/09

Bern - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/09 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/09

tobydunford - 2nd rpt - 14/Mar/09 with Angus

Bern - Lead rpt - 15/Feb/09 with Sue Hazel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead dog - 2009

trev_f - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/08 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Dec/08

tobydunford - 2nd β - 01/Nov/08 with Harry Martin

Very exposed laybacking around the corner onto the traverse - very nice!
givemetea - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with Tracey Tomlin

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Oct/08

adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Kafoozalem

maresia - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Rob Scheichl

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/08

I tried to lead it but bottled the move out right from the break which involves smaring and a sort of lay back on a big flake. I tried to go up higher but couldn't hold on to the damp rock and rested on a nice big tech friend no. 4
RocknRoll - 2nd RP - 29/Jun/08 with Rob Gibson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

haydng - Lead rpt - 11/May/08 with Rachel

RMG - 2nd - 11/May/08 with haydng

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08

A wonderful route, especially the traverse position.
Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/08 with Tom Hindson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/08

Brilliant route!
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Andy N

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/07

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Oct/07

Clee - 2nd - 23/Sep/07 with Martin H

Done in one pitch - rope drag became a pain, but great route
Chris the Tall - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Dave T

Katex - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/07 with Dan

Lovely route with a tingly traverse across the wall itself. Best not to climb it with a single rope, though!
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Roger H Smith

riddle - 2nd - Aug/07 with Lee UKC!

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07 with Steve Gould

Fairly easy HVS
jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Fat Alan

Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 10/May/07

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 04/May/07 with Guy Reid

Led in one
cem - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/07 with Joel Trott

Siderunner - 2nd - 22/Apr/07 with Seb B

great route, awkward belay ledge, Pete led pitch one in good style.
MontyH - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with pete frost

beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2007 with Iain Shone

chrisbevins - 2007

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rebecca Holland

Rob Pitt - Lead - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/06

And 03/03/12 with Mark Ryder
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06 with Richard White

Jim Vach - 2nd rpt - Nov/06 with Paul Winder

Ramon Marin - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06 with Salomon Fernandez

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Oct/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/06

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 24/Sep/06 with Jen Towill

Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06

winter_burn - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/06

Ybot Htulk - AltLd - Jun/06 with Pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/06

dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/06 with jamie evans

Hidden - AltLd β - Mar/06

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

ChrisBrooke - 2nd - 19/Nov/05 with John Inkpen

bigie bob - Lead O/S - Nov/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/05

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 29/May/05 with Vaughan Hewitt

Led top pitch - front cover shot in Climb mag.
steve taylor - AltLd β - 01/May/05 with Scott Titt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/05

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/05

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Mar/05

Hidden - Lead - Jan/05

Hidden - 2005

Rob Kennard - AltLd - 2005 with Alex More

Nice
timharrison - Lead O/S - 2005 with Dominic Holdem

feilx - 2005

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 2005 with bob mott

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Simon

Budge - Lead dog - 17/Oct/04 with Martin Gillie

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/04

brian watson - AltLd - 21/Aug/04 with bob mott

five - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/04 with PW, TW

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/04

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Tony Payne

Alaric - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/04 with Nigel Mackwood

Marq - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/04 with Daniel Dennehy

benjino - Jan/04

Boxy - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/03 with Mick

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/02

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/01

Hidden - 2001

Led p1
cem - AltLd rpt - 22/Oct/00 with Miles Butteriss

aged_ape - Lead O/S - Apr/00 with KC

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/99 with Graham Dolman

jasper11 - 1999

Minor epic! I decided to lead it as a single pitch, just enough rope. Had to down-climb to recover some gear though. Andy C had difficulty with the traverse. We scared off the next pair who were considering it!
andyfeds - Lead - 20/Sep/98 with Andy C

Budge - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/97 with Mike Oates

mikej - AltLd - 29/Sep/95 with Mike Byles

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Aug/95 with eric milton

Richard White - Lead O/S - Jul/95

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/94 with jon

Okecroak - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/93 with G Scott

Mark Kemball - Lead - 20/Jul/93 with Alison Dorey

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/93

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/92

kp64zl - AltLd - Jan/92 with Keith

sdht - 1992 with Dave Ward

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 22/May/91 with Joe

Wonderful traverse to start the second pitch.
ewjudge - Lead O/S - 05/May/91 with Sven Wardle

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/91

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/90

Adrian Daniels - AltLd - 31/May/90 with Steve Webster

mark-abz - Lead - 29/Apr/90 with Simon K

ChrisJD - AltLd - 14/Jan/90

Pete Nugent - 24/Mar/89

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1989 with Anne from SF

First Swanage HVS
steve taylor - Lead O/S - Jul/88 with Martin Stansbury

steve taylor - AltLd - Jul/88 with mark grover

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 18/May/86 with Brian Wyvill

DDDD - AltLd - 1986

I led 1st pitch, Toby led 2nd. Hot day.
JamieAyres - AltLd O/S - Jun/85 with Toby Foordkelcey

GuyM - 1985

Hidden - 1985

Nigel Coe - 28/Jun/83 with Pete Oxley

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 05/Mar/83

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 28/Apr/79 with Frank Farrell

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 01/Nov/78 with Gerry Dunford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lem, Joemanglerocks, lukerathmell, Matt250, RFWilkie, kenneM, JCAshman, cdpuk, Graham C, Stroppy, MaccMark, Steve27, Master Chief, leonjones, Chris Sansum, alimckay, mikehenesy, Richard Morgan, andybuckley, James B, tomkhoward, jamie ward, Robfromcornwall, Tom Gadsden, Kyuzo

Voting
Total votes cast 403
hard E10 of 139
E10 of 139
easy E14 of 139
hard HVS15 of 139
HVS111 of 139
easy HVS8 of 139
hard VS1 of 139
VS0 of 139
easy VS0 of 139
hard 5a1 of 139
5a5 of 139
easy 5a86 of 139
hard 4c36 of 139
4c11 of 139
easy 4c0 of 139
hard 4b0 of 139
4b0 of 139
easy 4b0 of 139
3 Stars112 of 125
2 Stars11 of 125
1 Star1 of 125
0 Stars1 of 125
Bag of .....0 of 125
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf