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Gypsy*** E2 5b

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33m, 2 pitches. Well-travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the smooth face below the main fault-line. 1) 5b, 16m. Pull up strenuously onto a ledge and move up a corner to an overhang. Climb another overhang and the slim corner to the fault-line and belay. 2) 5b, 22m. Step right and pull over the overhang into an open groove. Follow the groove to an overhang before moving right and climbing to the top. © ROCKFAX
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 29.10.67. Pitch 2 used to be protected by two pegs which were removed by a falling leader (who survived). 29/Oct/1967

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 109 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/14 with Tom Livingstone

Bahaha fell off when i broke a foothold on second. I'm such a chopper!
Tom Livingstone - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/14 with Dan Gibson

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

tev - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/14 with Lawrence, Alan B

Backed off P2 after failing to read the crux. Seconded it clean.
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with Lawrence Dudley, Thomas Vaughan

Lead P2. Great route but I thought that this was a bit soft. Not sustained at all.
Stuart Johnston - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Stuart Johnstone

GPN - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Annette

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Pete Hiscox, Ian Faulkner

ian d f - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Michael P, Pete H

ianto - 2013

Led P1. awesome, great moves up rounded rib to faultline.
AlexD - AltLd O/S - 30/Oct/12 with Ed

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 15/Sep/12

led p1.. brilliant all the way. groove on 1st pitch, best climbed on arete!
Helen Gibson - AltLd - 05/Sep/12 with Alice

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12

Luxulyan - 2nd O/S - Sep/12 with Tom Murrell

Calling it clean... I had to sit on the rope during the second pitch to get a nut free. Eventually abandoned it!
budchawla - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Alexander Orlov

All in one pitch
Kevster - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12

Paul Eckton - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with kevin faux

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/12

awesome
Rockwarrior - Lead - Aug/12 with Shabad Chawla

CRiddiford - 2nd - 24/Jul/12 with Mike, Jake Young

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Mike

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/12 with andrew porter

tried to lead as one pitch but shite ropework led to impromptu belay halfway up 2nd pitch, attacked by seagull and rope got tangled = nightmare. didn;t think climbing was that good either.
Mark Warnett - AltLd O/S - Jun/12 with Princess Diana

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

mwatson - Lead O/S - Jun/12

P2
wi11 - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12 with Graham Westbrook

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12 with wi11

3 Names - 2nd rpt - 19/May/12 with Ed Bulman

Haydn Jones - 2nd O/S - 13/May/12 with pep

paddygoodwinlondon - AltLd rpt - 12/May/12 with Gareth Hall

Led first pitch - quite sustained and strenuous!
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Patrick Goodwin

chakrit - Lead O/S - 10/May/12

Fantastic. Pumpy but without being too desperate and good gear when you need it. Wouldn't want to do as one pitch - reckon the rope drag would be pretty annoying.. Found some suprising moves when hold weren't quite what i expected - a really satisfying lead. Definitely worth the stars!
Alan100 - Lead - 15/Apr/12

Rowan Mitchell - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Alan Murray

Done as one big pitch. Found the entry to the groove below the upper overhang on p2 particularly hard.
harold walmsley - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/12 with Paul Evans

Best route I've done at Swanage. Steep, but great holds leading you on all the way, with a couple of little suprise moves..just brilliant!
Helen Gibson - 2nd - 09/Sep/11

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/11 with helen gibson

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Justin T - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Cherry

Amazing climbing, short but packs it in.
cooperman - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Greg Foster

colkurtz - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Robb

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/11

Lead in one pitch
3 Names - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Sumee Holloway

annetweddell - 2nd - 28/Jul/11 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/11

This was great fun, not easy and a good adventure. Found the 'stiff corner' just below the fault pretty exciting, thought I might not make it, but got a semi desperate finger lock in the back and pulled through! Most enjoyable route at swanage so far.
manwithacam - AltLd - 19/Jun/11 with Mike R

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/11

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 01/May/11 with chris gee

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/10

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 15/Sep/10 with rob gibson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10

dickie01 - AltLd - 09/May/10 with Joe Heasman

Phil Belcher - 2nd - 10/Apr/10 with Rich

Bern - 2nd rpt - 14/Mar/10 with Richard White

Sophie Nunn - 2nd - 03/Oct/09

Lead P1
brian watson - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/09 with neil weymouth

Toby Dunn - AltLd - 16/Aug/09 with Andy Reeve

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/09

Excellent stuff, but a while since I was leading anything this tough (if ever). Rested on gear just below the pitch 2 roof and looked up to see the final moves that lead you out. Arse!
clipskipper - AltLd dog - 31/May/09 with Davey Boy

Lead 2nd pitch - belting climb, first swanage E2.
tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Angus

Hidden - 2009

DDDD - Lead O/S - 2009

trev_f - 2nd O/S - 28/Dec/08 with Ed

+ 2nd with Iain 30/06/11 + Alt Leads with AlexD 30/10/12
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 28/Dec/08 with Trevor

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 24/Feb/08 with jacquie robinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Nov/07

Led in one pitch
Richard Horn - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07

Led P2 having led P1 previously. 1st E2!
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 04/May/07 with Guy Reid

Did in one pitch, which is probably why the second half was very pumpy (and not seeing a great left hold)
DrGav - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/07 with Andrey

Sweet route - both pitches have exciting moments, rock on the whole is better than on most Swanage routes.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Emily

Rob Kennard - 2007

Rob Pitt - Lead - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/06

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/06 with jamie evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/06

Bern - 2006

Marti999 - AltLd - 2006

Stone Muppet - 2nd - 2006 with js

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/05

feilx - 2005

In one pitch
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/04

Led in one
cem - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/04 with Graham Dolman

Richard White - 2003

ellis - AltLd O/S - Jul/02 with Steve Grey

Hidden - 2001

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2000 with Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

cem - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/99 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - Lead - 14/Mar/99

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 13/Apr/95 with Perric Crellin

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Roget - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/94 with jon

Hidden - Lead - 10/Apr/93

"Steep, sustained, something and severe"
ewjudge - 2nd dog - 05/May/91 with Sven Wardle

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/90

steve taylor - AltLd - Jun/90 with Steve Williams

jasper11 - 1990

JS p1, PN p2. Graded E1 in the 1986 guide!
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 25/Mar/89 with John Stringfellow

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 09/May/82 with Tim Dunsby

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, nigel pearson, Hidden, iceaxejuggler, Hidden, Master Chief, LJKing, Hidden, RFWilkie, Hidden, Andy Chubb, givemetea, jtree03, Ceridwen, Mr Tickle, Kyuzo, Owen W-G

Voting
Total votes cast 120
hard E30 of 41
E30 of 41
easy E30 of 41
hard E212 of 41
E222 of 41
easy E23 of 41
hard E14 of 41
E10 of 41
easy E10 of 41
hard 5c0 of 40
5c0 of 40
easy 5c8 of 40
hard 5b19 of 40
5b11 of 40
easy 5b2 of 40
hard 5a0 of 40
5a0 of 40
easy 5a0 of 40
3 Stars36 of 39
2 Stars2 of 39
1 Star1 of 39
0 Stars0 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
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Style of ascent

Lead44 of 109 (40.4%)
Followed26 of 109 (23.9%)
Alt Leads31 of 109 (28.4%)
Unknown8 of 109 (7.3%)

'Climbed'36 of 109 (33.0%)
clean O/S55 of 109 (50.5%)
clean rpt13 of 109 (11.9%)
dogged5 of 109 (4.6%)