33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Well-travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the smooth face below the main fault-line.
1) 5b, 16m. Pull up strenuously onto a ledge and move up a corner to an overhang. Climb another overhang and the slim corner to the fault-line and belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Step right and pull over the overhang into an open groove. Follow the groove to an overhang before moving right and climbing to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 29.10.67. Pitch 2 used to be protected by two pegs which were removed by a falling leader (who survived). 29/Oct/1967

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage.

Hidden 20/Sep Lead rpt
Oli 20/Aug AltLd O/S

In full on rain. Led P2. Lower pitch was very soapy. Steady for E2?

with Edd
BenL 08/Aug 2nd β
with Andrea
Hidden ?/Aug Lead dog
stevoland 18/Jul Lead O/S

Ace. One pitch, one rope cos I forgot the other one.

AJM 28/Jun 2nd β
with Gregor McCombie, Tom Lambert
Tubs 28/Jun 2nd O/S

Sustained interest but with rests when you need them.

with Gregor, AJM
ASchwirtz 07/Jun Lead O/S
richardashe 07/Jun 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 10/May Lead O/S
Dibdawg 09/May Lead O/S

Great line, great climbing, good choice for 1st trad lead @ Swanage.

with Richard Lade
Shane Willis 17/Feb AltLd O/S
Dr Toph 24/Jan AltLd O/S

Steve led P1, which has a great finish. I did P2 which was a cool sustained line and well protectable with small cams.

with Steve
ian bryant ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
ben.richards 03/Aug/14 2nd dog
LJC 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1

with George, ben.richards
Kirill 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
cem 02/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Didn't expect to do it again so soon but it was on the top of Kirill's list & there were precious few other areas we could have gone to given the sea conditions.

Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 02/Aug/14 2nd dog
with Andy
khalidq 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
cem 13/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Led it as one long pitch. Brilliant, I'd forgotten quite how good it is.

with Peter Murphy
petegruf 13/Jul/14 2nd
with charles m
brices 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, 1 long pitch

with Llinos
paultaylor 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

In 1, excellant

Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tash 12/Jun/14 2nd
with ali k
markalmack 26/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead p2

with james marjot
Misha 18/May/14 2nd O/S

Excellent, lots of steep, hard bits interspersed with rests and nice balancy climbing up the flake groove on P1. Unexpected cruxy sequence towards the end of P2. Sue led it in one, which made for a nicely sustained pitch.

with Sue
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May/14 2nd
Martin Haworth 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Very sustained and pumpy. Led in a single pitch.

with Tony
Tony Holdsworth 03/May/14 2nd O/S
with Martin Haworth
Fran S8 03/May/14 Lead O/S
andycash 18/Apr/14 2nd
with Ash
Ash Sayers 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
dan gibson 09/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 09/Apr/14 2nd dog

Bahaha fell off when i broke a foothold on second. I'm such a chopper!

Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
tev 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
with Lawrence, Alan B
Monkey_Alan 29/Mar/14 2nd

Backed off P2 after failing to read the crux. Seconded it clean.

Stuart Johnston 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lead P2. Great route but I thought that this was a bit soft. Not sustained at all.

adam 24 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
GPN 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

A bit of a Swanage epic!

with Annette
pearson9596 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Hiscox, Ian Faulkner
ian d f 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Michael P, Pete H
ianto ??/2013 -
saxdonkey ??/2013 2nd
ian caton ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Abi
AlexD 30/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1. awesome, great moves up rounded rib to faultline.

with Ed
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Helen Gibson 05/Sep/12 AltLd

led p1.. brilliant all the way. groove on 1st pitch, best climbed on arete!

with Alice
Hidden 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Luxulyan ?/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Tom Murrell
budchawla 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Calling it clean... I had to sit on the rope during the second pitch to get a nut free. Eventually abandoned it!

Kevster 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

All in one pitch

Paul Eckton 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Rockwarrior ?/Aug/12 Lead


CRiddiford 24/Jul/12 2nd
Jake Young 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Mike
dan gibson 15/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with andrew porter
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

tried to lead as one pitch but shite ropework led to impromptu belay halfway up 2nd pitch, attacked by seagull and rope got tangled = nightmare. didn;t think climbing was that good either.

with Princess Diana
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
wi11 22/May/12 AltLd O/S


Graham Westbrook 22/May/12 AltLd O/S
with wi11
3 Names 19/May/12 2nd rpt
with Ed Bulman
Haydn Jones 13/May/12 2nd O/S
with pep
paddygoodwinlondon 12/May/12 AltLd rpt
with Gareth Hall
GarethHall 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch - quite sustained and strenuous!

chakrit 10/May/12 Lead O/S
billb ?/May/12 AltLd
Alan100 15/Apr/12 Lead

Fantastic. Pumpy but without being too desperate and good gear when you need it. Wouldn't want to do as one pitch - reckon the rope drag would be pretty annoying.. Found some suprising moves when hold weren't quite what i expected - a really satisfying lead. Definitely worth the stars!

Rowan Mitchell 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
harold walmsley 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Done as one big pitch. Found the entry to the groove below the upper overhang on p2 particularly hard.

with Paul Evans
Helen Gibson 09/Sep/11 2nd

Best route I've done at Swanage. Steep, but great holds leading you on all the way, with a couple of little suprise moves..just brilliant!

dan gibson 09/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
Hidden 03/Sep/11 2nd
Justin T 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Cherry
cooperman 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing climbing, short but packs it in.

with Greg Foster
colkurtz 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 30/Jul/11 Lead
3 Names 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Lead in one pitch

annetweddell 28/Jul/11 2nd
with Jeff
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
manwithacam 19/Jun/11 AltLd

This was great fun, not easy and a good adventure. Found the 'stiff corner' just below the fault pretty exciting, thought I might not make it, but got a semi desperate finger lock in the back and pulled through! Most enjoyable route at swanage so far.

with Mike R
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt
dan gibson 01/May/11 Lead rpt
with chris gee
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/10 AltLd
dan gibson 15/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with rob gibson
Hidden 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
dickie01 09/May/10 AltLd
with Joe Heasman
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Bern 14/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Sophie Nunn 03/Oct/09 2nd
brian watson 06/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Lead P1

with neil weymouth
Toby Dunn 16/Aug/09 AltLd
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 19/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
clipskipper 31/May/09 AltLd dog

Excellent stuff, but a while since I was leading anything this tough (if ever). Rested on gear just below the pitch 2 roof and looked up to see the final moves that lead you out. Arse!

with Davey Boy
tobydunford 14/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch - belting climb, first swanage E2.

with Angus
Hidden ??/2009 -
DDDD ??/2009 Lead O/S
trev_f 28/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Ed
Ed Babs 28/Dec/08 Lead O/S

+ 2nd with Iain 30/06/11 + Alt Leads with AlexD 30/10/12

with Trevor
dan gibson 24/Feb/08 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 04/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
Richard Horn 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Led in one pitch

Different Steve 04/May/07 AltLd O/S

Led P2 having led P1 previously. 1st E2!

with Guy Reid
DrGav 12/Apr/07 2nd dog

Did in one pitch, which is probably why the second half was very pumpy (and not seeing a great left hold)

with Andrey
Chad123 08/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Sweet route - both pitches have exciting moments, rock on the whole is better than on most Swanage routes.

with Emily
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Rob Pitt ??/2007 Lead
Hidden 11/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
bigie bob 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 03/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with jamie evans
Hidden ?/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??/2006 2nd
with js
Hidden 21/Jul/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
pezzerrr 14/Nov/04 Lead O/S

In one pitch

Hidden 26/Jun/04 Lead O/S
cem 20/Jun/04 Lead rpt

Led in one

Hidden 27/Apr/04 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 -
ellis ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Ian Jones ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
cem 11/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 14/Mar/99 Lead
Hidden 25/Apr/98 AltLd O/S
Bruce Kerr 13/Apr/95 AltLd
with Perric Crellin
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
Roget 30/Mar/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 10/Apr/93 Lead
ewjudge 05/May/91 2nd dog

"Steep, sustained, something and severe"

with Sven Wardle
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Jun/90 AltLd
with Steve Williams
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Pete Nugent 25/Mar/89 AltLd

JS p1, PN p2. Graded E1 in the 1986 guide!

with John Stringfellow
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 09/May/82 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
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Votes cast 52
High 5c
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High 5a
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Votes cast 51
Votes cast 48
Style of ascent
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