|550m, 14 pitches.
550m 6b/c, 6b+ oblig.
(Grades given here are the ones we found and may differ from those in the guide)
Friends, two of the small/medium, and 12 q-ds
Difficult to understand the inclusion of routes like this in a publication of Vie "plaisir".
The route is beautiful and enjoyable if you love to climb a little psycho!
APPROACH AND REPORT:
From Grimsel Hospitz parking down to the dam, cross, go up the stairs inside and follow the obvious path through the tunnel and descends into the lake. Before the crag a large boulder acts as a bivouac. You should leave packs here. Route names are written on the base. That of Yeti is not easy to read.
Start at a white pillar 30 metres to the left of the word "FORCES", evident on the right side of the wall.
Note: The friends become useful on P3, 5, 6 and 9
Not be underestimated, it is easy to get lost.
L1) top slab smoothed by the glacier, it seems to climb on the glass! 6b obligatory between the first two bolts, if you are wrong when clipping the hole. 35m 4 bolts
L2) wall, a bolts, then nothing for a 15m, to right and fix comp plaque difficult to get to the 3rd, 6th, after the friend can step comp. Good stance, 40m, 4 bolts
L3) to R, 1st bolts diff to see, 40m, 4 bolts, 6.
L4) plaques and walls already in a better slot, 40m, 3 bolts, 6.
L5) to follow the crack, 6th, friends are not always easy, 40m, 3 bolts
L6) slot yet, difficult to arrive at 1 bolts, not protect them, follow a few metres on the 2nd bolts ... know when to cross to right, vertical wall, 6c according to the guide, but a little '+ easy and even if forced bolts distant, yet more right to right to break with even steps expo, 50, 6 bolts.
L7) plates, knives and walls, 40m, 6a +, 4 bolts
L8) easy but shit! 3 bolts long throw, just protect them and to get to the stop step expo 30m, 6a.
Hence the difficulty setting you are wanting to get off and may decline (in this case, take a couple of lines and maillon. I do not leave, however, drop shots following the merger will likely slip to 20m.
L9) follow the crack of LH right under the roof that is passed to the left, unprotected, 5c, up to stance 45m, 4 bolts
L10) easy shot, a little 'less get to the first bolts! 25m, 5c, 3 bolts
L11) plaque photonics, not easy to figure out where to go, 5c, 50, 5 bolts
L12) than a roof and zigzagging the best for chips, 40m, 5c, 3 bolts
L13) Muret 'roads and since the plaques in a dihedral, 5b, 35m 4 bolts
L14) over a roof, bolt far right into the wall, easy slabs to the last stance, 5b, 40m, 4 bolts. From here pratone easily to the summit.
Descent: follow cairns down a channel to right looking at the wall. Maximum attention when wet! Follow the tracks up to a further channel that seems impossible to get off especially when wet (almost always), to right, down, on a spur of the lines we have to double, you should do it. Also for channels, tracks, water slides and swamps to reach a wooded area, find a passage between it and return the vague path between the various streams. Eventually we arrive at the camp under the big rock where they left their packs (if the leg is to be found!). 1 hour good.
Yves & Claude Remy
Photo: tracciato della route © berni64