Rockfax Description
A good pitch. Climb the large flake-crack past the fault-line to a ledge on the left. From the ledge move leftwards to flakes and climb these, and the wall to the right, trending rightwards to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The flake crack in centre of boulder filled bay. Climb crack to fault line and continue up crack above till a step left gain a ledge. From the left of ledge climb up and rightward on flakes and solid wall on right to a clean exit. stakes
(This is the better alterative finish; the original finish goes over loose ground to the left)

Ticklists: WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20.

Ed Babs 29/Jul Lead O/S

As part of the Rockfax 2012 Boulder Ruckle Non Bird Banned HVS In A Day Challenge: 11 routes (lightning wall, directors groove, thunder groove, finale groove, buzz light year, the long goodbye, war, nutcracker exit II, black sunshine, aventura and jo) in 9 hours.

with Ellis
kim.mulji 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Much easier as a second.

andyjirvin 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led in one pitch. Probably the nicest climb we did. Worthy of 5a? Perhaps just hard 4c. Majority of top section, including all the flakes and most big blocks, seemed either loose or hollow. Care needed and difficult to place gear because of this. Shame as the moves through the flakes are really nice.

Ian MK 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Anna Maykova 31/Aug/14 2nd
with Ian
brian watson 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with bob mott, scott titt
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd
TimKnight 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Joemanglerocks 14/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 14/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Oct/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 21/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Floris
Hidden 21/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Nice route, tricky to read but good holds when you find them.

with Oli Dorrell
Julian Prieto 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Climb in the bag and foolishly got complacent on the top out. Grabbed a loose block and I was off, falling 50 feet and sending Hector 15 feet up.

hector 18/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/12 2nd
torsok 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Nic
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Ceridwen 15/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Solid HVS, we did the right exit which was not too loose, but harder than the rest of the climb! I'd have agreed with 4c except for the last few meters, which were more like 5a

with Phil
Sophie Nunn 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Alex
Andre Clarke 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Rested on gear so blown my onsight. Crux isn't on mid section which one would have thought looking at it from below.

AlexD 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Sophie
LukeyG 19/Mar/12 Lead
Marti999 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 23/Aug/09 2nd
Norman_P_W 23/Aug/09 Lead
with Bob M
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead
Norman_P_W 29/Oct/06 2nd
with Bob M
Hidden 01/Oct/05 AltLd
Nigel Coe 09/Sep/01 Lead
with Tim Dunsby
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lukerathmell, Adam A Wheeler, jezb1
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 12
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set