Rockfax Description
An outstanding Swanage classic. It follows the steep cracks and mid-height bulge towards the left-hand side of the wall. Very pumpy but also very well protected. Start at a slab just right of the base of the unrelenting crack-line. Follow the slab easily left to the base of the crack-line and climb it to the mid-height horizontal break. Pull through the steep bulge above to a shake out at a good hold on the left. Continue up the thinner, but less-steep crack above the good hold to a point where a step left gains easier climbing and the top. © Rockfax

FA. Kevin Turner, Nick Buckley, S.Bartlett 3.79. FFA. Steve Monks ,Gordon Jenkin 21.11.81 Mar/1979

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Swanage wild pumpfests, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender.

James Oakes 01/Sep Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 01/Sep 2nd O/S
with noaks
BenL 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Andrea
Misha 01/Aug Lead O/S

Hard Very Swanage! Steady if you're fit, every time there's a hard move or two there's a jug just above. Couple of good rests as well (would be better without them!). Hardest thing is placing some of the gear as it's fiddly in those knobbly cracks. Well protected though. Nothing hard but was feeling it a bit towards the top. Very good!

with Mark S
Mark Warnett ?/Aug Lead O/S
brices 05/Jul 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul 2nd O/S
Caspian Johnson 04/Jul Lead O/S

So pumpy!

with brices
onlyfoddington 07/Jun 2nd dog

Amazing, so steep and sustained. I got to just below the mini break before I pumped out, and afterwards took advantage on many rests.

with Ian
ian d f 07/Jun Lead O/S

My first Swanage E3 lead. Very good route.

valecoastclimber 05/Jun Lead O/S
Albachoss 31/May 2nd O/S


with Andrea
Okecroak 30/May 2nd dog

finished on elbows…….

with I Butler
Hidden 25/May Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May Lead O/S
AlexD 23/May 2nd rpt

3 stars just isn't enough for this perfect jugfest!

with Ed
Hidden 04/May 2nd
mike mo ?/May Lead O/S

So much fun when you have to try really hard for the onsight

with Simon Pape
Hidden 21/Mar Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
ian bryant ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
WB 30/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Andy M
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead
Nick Russell 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

An awesome juggy pumpfest! Will feel soft if you're used to steep sport climbing. There is a very wobbly jug on the left, approximately where the guidebook indicates a good shakeout. Maybe it's well cammed in but I avoided it entirely - there's no shortage of good holds nearby.

Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
climbingpixie 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
piken ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden 07/Jun/14 2nd dog
Justin T 07/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Nancy
3 Names 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Bulman
AlexD 31/May/14 Lead rpt
with Ed
JM 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
markalmack 25/May/14 2nd O/S
with james marjot
Stuart Johnston 05/May/14 2nd dog

Had to rest on a nut to get another out. Pumpy as.

adam 24 05/May/14 Lead rpt

Very pleased to lead it! I seconded last year, but its such an obvious line that onsighting it wouldn't be much harder. Very pumped at the top, but hung in there.

Duncan Campbell 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Blimmin' mega! Pretty pumpy but not too hard for 5b as it is very juggy. Watch out for the top third as there is some loose-ness.

with Bubbles
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
Billg 03/May/14 Lead O/S
funsized 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

So Good!

with Ian
dan gibson 11/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 11/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
brices 08/Mar/14 2nd rpt

Just as good 2nd time round

with Remus
ian caton 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Climbing wall F6b. Swanage E2 surely.

with Abi
Sophie Nunn 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Richard
Luxulyan 20/Aug/13 2nd
with Sophie
Ed Booth 15/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Alex
AlexD 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Richard
mutt 21/Jul/13 Lead dog

fell at the last pinch! Heavy ropes and a hot day! I'll get it clean next time

Tom Livingstone 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
bede.west 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
BenNorman 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Glad to get up this one with my appauling current fitness, doesnt get much better, huge holds everywhere

brices 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Amazing one of the best routes ive done, If i could only climb routes like this il be eternaly happy

sparkass 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Used some lank

Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
patrickc 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Sue
Hidden 16/May/13 2nd dog
Hidden 16/May/13 Lead O/S
mes32 05/May/13 2nd dog

When you have to hammer gear out with a hex falling off becomes an inevitability. Awesome route though.

with Wilki
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead O/S
will moy 03/May/13 2nd

Pump Pump Pump.

with Tom
adam 24 21/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Apr/13 Lead rpt
petegunn 06/Apr/13 Lead

Excellent climbing, a superb route. A gorgeous sunny day, T-shirt climbing yay! :)

with Davina
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd dog
sonic46 28/Mar/13 2nd dog
ianto ??/2013 -
Tangerine_Kingdom ??/2013 Lead O/S
LJC 07/Oct/12 Lead

Took at 30 footer off the crux, got it ground up second time. Totally underwhelmed.

with Tom
Kevster 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent, french 6b with runners everywhere.

tonevert 29/Sep/12 2nd
Bristoldave 16/Sep/12 2nd β

Really good route

with LukeW
London Luke 16/Sep/12 Lead
with David R
ellis 01/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Tom Holdsworth, Tom Bridgeland
mikeyjbs 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with andrew caddie
dan gibson 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with andre hedger
BeccaSnowden 01/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Mike
London Luke ?/Aug/12 Lead dog
cooperman 25/Jun/12 2nd

As close to a clip as trad can get, great holds, great gear, great route

with Greg Foster
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
patrickc 16/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with neils
quiffhanger 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt

Raced up it: confidence and minimal gear faff-age helped me avoid the pump :)

mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett 26/May/12 Lead O/S

great route; pump is controllable with fitness, holds are massive. solid E3 5b in my book

with Princess Diana
Haydn Jones 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with pep
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Very nice - managed to dodge the pump.

with Jake
Hidden 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Justin T 21/Mar/12 2nd
with Cherry
Ciro 11/Mar/12 Lead RP

Took a fall just before the big break on my onsight attempt on Saturday, then seconded it as my arms were a bit boxed for another attempt. Came back on Sunday and sent it next go... very pleased with that for my first E3.

with Ramon
matt perks ??/2012 -
colkurtz 01/Jul/11 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tuftynick 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May/11 Lead
Graham Westbrook 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Pumpy! Great route!

JonBrown 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Clean 2nd, awesome moves and great gear

with Felix
feilx 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with jon brown
jacobjlloyd 12/Mar/11 2nd β

Really good! Glad I was on the thick end for this one- my lack of stamina very nearly had me off the mammoth jugs! Felt hard to me, but its been a while since I did any steep trad. Will come back and lead it when I've got a bit of fitness back. What a route!

with Dougie
Hidden 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S
thomb 12/Mar/11 Lead dog

pumpy and relentless, but fantastic gear and holds.

with Harry
dswansonlow 12/Mar/11 Lead dog

Soooooooo pumped. I have never been so pumped!

phil64 ??/2011 -
davenev 18/Sep/10 2nd

relentlessly steep............

with luke
Mr Tickle 18/Sep/10 Lead dog

This one hurt like hell! PUMPED!

with davenev
Alex Mason 11/Aug/10 Lead β

On mikeys gear. Unremarkable, but, remarkably good.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Not the best in britain, but still very good. Feels steep at times, but huge holds and plenty of rests.

Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
Speeddemonsi 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
brian watson 15/May/10 TR
pezzerrr 15/May/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with jacquie robinson
Ed Babs 17/Oct/09 Lead RP

awesome. + 2nd with harry 23/06/10 + 2nd with Iain 30/06/11 + 2nd with AlexD 31/05/14 + lead with AlexD 23/05/16

with Mike Hawkins
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 12/Sep/09 2nd

Also led this in 1989.

with Rab Carrington
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd β
Toby Dunn 15/Aug/09 2nd
with Andy Reeve
Ramon Marin 10/Aug/09 Lead β
with Salomon Fernandez
Tim M 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt

Last did it 15 years ago!

with Emma
climbergg 05/Jul/09 2nd
sinbad 04/May/09 Lead dog

two rests - pumped to funk!

with eddy on the rocks
eddy-on-the-rocks 04/May/09 Lead O/S

It was bloody cold. Managed to get cramp in my arms! Lots of big nut would be good.

with Sinbad
feilx 21/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Angus
tobydunford 15/Mar/09 2nd dog
with Angus
Hidden ??/2009 -
feilx 22/Nov/08 Lead rpt
with Steve Mayer
dan gibson 03/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with anna barnes
JPGR 08/May/08 2nd
with Steve
Hidden 24/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Richard Horn 11/Aug/07 2nd
Bern ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Steve Pearson
tonanf ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Pep
timharrison 05/May/07 TR O/S
trevor macalonan 28/Apr/07 TR dog
with Tim
timharrison 28/Apr/07 TR
DrGav 12/Apr/07 2nd dog

Great line but very burly!

with Andrey
Hidden 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Kyuzo 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Duncan Steel
dan gibson 21/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with jamie evans
feilx ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Lovatt
bigie bob 18/Mar/06 Lead O/S
Bern ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Ian Jones ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S


with Andy Reeve
Hidden 20/Jul/05 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with eddie church
Hidden 04/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead
DJonsight ??/2000 -
sadams 22/Jun/98 2nd
with Andy Long
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
Roget 04/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with jon
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ?/Nov/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 10/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 13/Jun/92 Lead

Downclimbed first third for a rest.

with Tim Dunsby
keefe 02/May/92 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 02/May/92 -
with keefe
DDDD ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Richard Newey
steve taylor ?/Apr/91 Lead
with stumpy
Dave Musgrove 17/Mar/91 Lead O/S

Super route. Strenuous but one of the best I've done at Swanage.

with Pete Finklaire, Keith Bostrum
Robmwatt ??/1990 -
Hidden 26/Jul/88 2nd O/S
frank ramsay ??/1988 Lead
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