The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The first pitch is superb but the second is dirty.
1) 6a, 15m. Climb a crack and wall right of The Fin to the roof. Head diagonally right across the wild roof-crack to another easier crack above that leads to the faultline. Belay on the left.
2) 5b, 18m. Climb a corner on the right then traverse right to the arete. Follow this over a roof then move left into a corner. Climb back right up the arete to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Snell, N.Porter 6.11.1977. FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 29.11.1981.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)