The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
An exposed climb in a good position. The second pitch is poor.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb a short groove to the right of a pointed block to reach its capping roof. Move out left and up before climbing back right to a hanging arete. Climb to the faultline (poor belay - better to move right and belay in the corner of Snowdrop).
2) 5b, 15m. Pull over a roof and climb a crack, just right of the arete, to a roof. Step left onto the arete and follow it to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley, Crispin Waddy 31/Aug/1986.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
matt perks | 21 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route is well worth doing. The first pitch is pretty steady although I thought the arete was a bit too precarious for waltzing. The belay at the fault is semi-hanging and requires gear in the crack above the roof for it to be bombproof (you can place this with your feet on the fault ledge). There aren't really any 5c moves on the second pitch but it is steep and exposed until past the roof. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This route is well worth doing. The first pitch is pretty steady although I thought the arete was a bit too precarious for waltzing. The belay at the fault is semi-hanging and requires gear in the crack above the roof for it to be bombproof (you can place this with your feet on the fault ledge). There aren't really any 5c moves on the second pitch but it is steep and exposed until past the roof. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)