30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe and team 16.6.68 16/Jun/1968

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, UK Classic Corners, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Matt.c.Warner 22/Oct AltLd O/S
with Simon
mapperley samurai 30/Aug AltLd O/S

Top quality stuff: atmospheric and interesting. Lead P2.

Katsmiff 09/Aug AltLd O/S

Thought we were doing Jo, weren't doing Jo. Lesson learnt about doing some research before climbing at Swanage and making sure you're on the right climb. Others had the sense to sacrifice gear and ab off, but not us. So we have labelled this new climb 'f***ing oh my god I'm gonna die!' Couldn't trust anything on the wall. I'm never scared whilst climbing - this is the most scared I've ever been.

afterthesend 30/May AltLd O/S

Angus lead pitch one, I lead pitch two.

Barry Kerslake 21/May Lead O/S
with Shamina Kapadia
Shane Willis 08/Apr Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Direct start to pitch 1 was fun. Second pitch has different lines in the rockfax guide, and climbers club guide, each showing the route going up a different groove at the top. I took the rockfax line, having been drawn towards the tat just below the roof. Took a bit of effort to gain the corner above.

brew_guru 11/Mar -

Out to lunch!

with Tom R
ian bryant ??/2015 -
Dave Mahon 26/Oct/14 Lead

Led both pitches. Adventure climbing. Remote, flapping birds, crashing waves and big pitches. P1 seems longer than the 17m in the book if you start from the cave. P2 is gnarly and exposed.

with Justin Sharpe
felixizzy 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S


with Mike
LJC 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Dirty and not really top 50 quality.

ben.richards 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S


Hidden 02/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt

best ascent, skinny dipping before doing the climb! loving the summer!

with Al Palmer
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
mattprince 14/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
stuart34 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom thorne
Hidden 08/Jun/14 AltLd
Norman_P_W 08/Jun/14 AltLd

Great but ripped t shirt on first pitch.

with Bob M
Hidden 07/Jun/14 2nd dog
Justin T 07/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Nancy
Hidden 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
JM 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Hidden 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
Ciderslider 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, both pitches really good value for their grades - starting to enjoy the whole wild pulling through bulges and roofs thing.

ciderspider 17/May/14 2nd dog

a great adventure on the ruckle. First pitch went fine but went slightly right on the second pitch at the overhang. Got pumped making my way back and ended up with an airy dangle of shame before resting and completing.

andycash 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with chris day
Duncan Campbell 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Bubbles
Matt77 03/May/14 Lead O/S

I led the 1st pitch and s**** myself up going for the direct start which is definitely harder than 4c. This led to serious wobble time on the rest of the pitch. Second pitch led by Shane and was excellent.

with Shane
islandlynx ?/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2. Matt did the direct start with heel-hook definitely harder than a 4c move.

Monkey_Alan 13/Apr/14 2nd rpt
joedoherty 11/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Anna Gibson
puppythedog 30/Nov/13 2nd β

I set off to lead tyne first pitch but headed into the cave thinking that looked the easiest route. that meant guano all over my shoes meaning I couldn't trust my feet. I was already intimidated by the steepness and the location (new to Swanage) and so Steve had a pop at it. I found the moves tough but doable. Establishing in the groove is definitely the crux of the climb and the climb feels definitely different to terrain I have climbed on before. We elected for Steve to do both pitches.

with Steve
mikehenesy 16/Nov/13 Lead

Hey Matt, that first pitch, well the pidgeons may have flown but they'd left lots of little messages, in fact I can scatalogicaly state it was a veritably guano-fest. The abbed off threaded nut and crab were still there, corroded in. Not being very swanage fit getting round that overhang was an effort as was the rest of it, a sweat fest in the stupidly hot conditions, with mucho disco leggo in evidence. Good gear and great rock, and Dave G's first HVS, fantastic!

with Dave Garrity
DaveGarrity 16/Nov/13 2nd

I didn't tell Mike it was my first HVS, having never climbed VS at Swanage...! Took me to my limits, got really pumped on the second pitch needing a breather, not helped by the helicopter hovering low over the cliffs! Still, a brilliant day, and really mild for a November climb. Also the irony in the name of the climb...(!)

CurlyStevo ?/Nov/13 Lead

Awesome climb somewhat marred by the guano on the start on pitch 1. Soft in the grade and well protected.

with PuppyTheDog
Nexonen 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Sarp
sarpedon 06/Oct/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant, adventurous route. Climbed with Andy Jordan.

Luxulyan 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Alex
AlexD 11/Aug/13 AltLd
with Richard
wild_nomad 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Best route of the day! Marred only by the bird crap covered start in the cave. I would give it just 2 stars because of this. Once past this a tricky move into the corner (Solid 5a) gives lovely climbing to a 'cosy' ledge. The second pitch is simply spectacular! Leave something left for the awkward finishing groove.

with Kevin
Jevans ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

petegruf 29/Jun/13 AltLd
with nick k
Hidden 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
johncoxmysteriously 02/Jun/13 AltLd

Swanage HVS doesn't come easier than this. Very nice route though. Be good if the software could be sorted out so that there weren't five pictures of climbers called Joe attached to it on here, mind.

Simon Allcock 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mary, Wilki
mes32 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Monkey_Alan 02/Feb/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1. Started from the "window" L of Thunderball as the sea was still a bit high.

uncontrollable 02/Feb/13 AltLd rpt

lead pitch 2

with Alan B
ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
nigel pearson 10/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

awkward moves on first pitch, nice open climbing on second.

with Robin
ChrisBrooke 13/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

John P1, me P2. Climbing as a three was straightforward thanks to the capacious half-height belay ledge. Two enjoyable pitches. Pulling through the bulge on P2 was fine and well protected. The (sandy) groove above it was surprisingly awkward though. Keep something in the tank for it.

with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
Kirill 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Led as one pitch.

Julian Prieto 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Ollie Dorrell
Hidden 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Andy Chubb 26/Aug/12 Lead

Committing and strenuous at the 'bulge' on the second pitch. It looked a lot like an overhang to me!

with Chris Mellor
eroica64 26/Aug/12 2nd

Brilliant hard Ruckle HVS

with Andy Chubb
Hidden 21/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 21/Aug/12 Lead
mikeyjbs 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with andrew caddie
Hidden 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead
rd20 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Rd p1

GarethHall 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
givemetea 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P1 me; P2 Ann

with Ann Chong
Stroppy 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing, great fist jam on the crux.

with Luke Johnson
Hidden 27/May/12 AltLd
paultaylor 10/May/12 AltLd O/S

Damp slimy start. Quality route great intro to the ruckle.

will moy 10/May/12 AltLd
with paul taylor
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
Ian JL ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
decs 27/Aug/11 AltLd

yes, Dusty.

with Bart
MarkRyder 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Made a more direct start from boulder via heel hook. Extremely dirty after the recent monsoon conditions. Stake is there (newish one) and ab rope useful on the topout

with Mark
Nevil 23/Jul/11 Lead
with Jeremy
JezzaCat ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Nevil
Hidden ?/Jun/11 -
norb ?/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 21/May/11 2nd

Pretty wild. Got over the roof on pitch one with a ridiculously strenuous and inelegant horizontal manoeuvre. Pitch 2 is unrelenting, but great climbing.

with Stewart
matt.jj 21/May/11 AltLd dog

Lead first pitch clean - tough for a 4c, more like 5a. Slipped after crux on 2nd pitch - knackered.

dickie01 14/May/11 Lead O/S
with Julian King
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 AltLd O/S

Matt led the dank cave start. I had trouble passing the roof - my rucksack kept getting stuck. Arrived pumped - ready for the 5a pitch. Took a small fall when I ran out of juice.

Jim Slater 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Trevor Wilson
Monkey_Alan 16/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Led P1.

Hidden 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Stewart Armstrong ??/2011 -
with Ivan Bicknell
Kevster ??/2011 Lead O/S
uncontrollable 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch

with Viskii
Hidden 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
climbtim 17/Oct/10 AltLd dog

Backed off the roof on the first pitch after a lot of attempts - pumped and having a head day. Tom then led both pitches which was a good effort. I will be back

Hidden 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
Monkey_Alan 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great route, perfect example of the Ruckle. Hard start, sustained and techincal in the middle and then a horrendous loose earthy top-out.

Andre Clarke 01/Aug/10 AltLd

Lead first pitch. Rather awkward to get out of the cave. 2nd Pitch quite hard but fantastic exposure

with Mon
Andre Clarke 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch & 2nd the next pitch

with Alan, Mon
Ed Griffin 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Alaric
garywong 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
kleinej 25/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Gary
Alaric 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Found the bridgy bit to come out of the cave very awkward and difficult. Loved the open steep exposed second pitch climbing on jugs

with Ed
trev_f 04/Jul/10 Lead
with Ed
Geoffers 02/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Graham Westbrook ?/Jul/10 AltLd
LoopyLou 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

A fabulous route, the first pitch (which i led) has most of the excitement. The direct start (rather than from the back of the cave) is a more natural line but is tricky and has precarious moves before you place gear - as i found out; a hold broke off in my hand, which had me slide back down to the starting boulder. Of course i jumped straight back on the same line and just found a different hold to use. It was a sobering reminder how temporary the rock can be at Swanage after a period of heavy rain fall.

with Thea Williams
Hidden 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1

ian d f 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 18/Apr/10 2nd
with Ian
Theeni ?/Apr/10 2nd O/S
manwithacam 14/Mar/10 Lead

Lead as one pitch. This has been on my tick list for a couple of years, good to do it, good route tho not as good as it looks in the guidebook.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
DaNo123 27/Sep/09 2nd
with martin
Hidden 06/Sep/09 Lead
colkurtz 06/Sep/09 AltLd
with Robb
sgl 10/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Jez
Different Steve 10/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Clare
jezb1 09/Jul/09 AltLd

Ld 4c P1

Hidden 10/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 03/May/09 AltLd
Ceridwen 23/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Sophie Nunn 23/Apr/09 AltLd
LiLaMont 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tobydunford 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
feilx 21/Mar/09 2nd rpt
with Angus
breed 21/Feb/09 2nd O/S
with Ellis Bird
Hidden 14/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
ASchwirtz 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Nikki
Dan_Carroll 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
RocknRoll 12/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

I lead the first pitch and Ramon lead the second. Bridging past the roof on the first pitch felt commiting.

with Ramon Marin Martinez
jamie ward 08/Feb/08 2nd
with Marcus Harvey
mike.moss ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
TimPerkin 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
Hidden 10/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 AltLd dnf
Ed Babs 03/Aug/07 Lead O/S

+ 2nd with trev 04/07/10

with Kate
Bern ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Andy Mos
clipskipper 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

First pitch starts in a filthy cave, but the belay is good and the second pitch worth the 3 stars. Crux move bold and exposed - good fun! Btw, stakes are now replaced/visible.

with Sue Hazel
timharrison 10/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Suse
timharrison 05/May/07 2nd rpt
trevor macalonan 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tim
timharrison 30/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Sheena
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
brian watson ??/2007 Lead O/S
with scott titt
Hidden 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
featuresforfeet 20/Aug/06 2nd
with Patrick
AJ007 ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Owen W-G 06/May/06 Lead O/S

Ab-ed into Marmolata 1pm, topped out after 6pm, worrying Daisy in process who had been informed that the route "wouldn't take long". We did faff about exploring a recent yacht wreck, and aborted an attempt of some other route (Sinbad?) before starting Jo, which involved quite a bit of boulder-hopping to find. Mega dehydrated at top. Led both pitches, typically Hard Very Swanage. Angry gull at stance.

with Tony Seale
Different Steve 01/May/06 AltLd O/S

Led thrutchy 1st pitch

with Craig Evans
dan gibson 28/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with jamie evans
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
maybe_si ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
cem 19/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

Led p1

benjino ?/Jan/04 -
aged_ape ?/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
with Rob B
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
WB 13/Mar/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
cragspud ??/1995 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
sdht ??/1993 -
Nigel Coe 13/Dec/92 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
kp64zl ?/Jul/92 AltLd
with Jason M
ewjudge 06/Feb/92 AltLd O/S

Wonderful climb

with Dave Hopkins
Hidden ?/Jul/91 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 02/Jun/91 AltLd
with Joe
steve taylor ?/May/89 AltLd
with mark grover
DDDD ??/1986 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 22/Oct/83 -
with Frank Farrell
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RobScarisbrick, Hidden, Bernie L, DanChad, Hooo, Hidden, lukerathmell, joedoherty, Keiran.A, JCAshman, mikehenesy, mattyork2, Simon Cahill, gilmourheid, djking1983, Steve27, Hidden, Hidden, Bram, johnpr, climbtim, Katy Nelson, Ybot Htulk, Dan Lane, Hidden, SuseH, Albie, andyfeds, Hidden, Hidden, Kyuzo
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 55
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 53
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set