Jo*** HVS 5a
[Joe to right of Bottomless Buttress, Swanage, 3 kb]30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb. Varied, well protected and in a remote location. Start at the back of the bay at a cave.
1) 4c, 17m. Climb the right wall of the cave to a ledge. Bridge up past a roof and continue up a corner to a belay at the fault-line.
2) 5a, 19m. Move up onto the wall above the stance and head rightwards (thread) to a bulge. Pull over the bulge to a corner and finish up this. Stake belays in place above. © ROCKFAX

FA. Richard Crewe and team 16.6.68 16/Jun/1968

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, West Country Climbs, Orange Spot Swanage, UK Classic Corners, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Photo: Joe to right of Bottomless Buttress, Swanage © dickie01
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 180 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

Top quality stuff: atmospheric and interesting. Lead P2.
mapperley samurai - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/15

Thought we were doing Jo, weren't doing Jo. Lesson learnt about doing some research before climbing at Swanage and making sure you're on the right climb. Others had the sense to sacrifice gear and ab off, but not us. So we have labelled this new climb 'f***ing oh my god I'm gonna die!' Couldn't trust anything on the wall. I'm never scared whilst climbing - this is the most scared I've ever been.
Katsmiff - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/15 with Martin Bagshaw

Angus lead pitch one, I lead pitch two.
afterthesend - AltLd O/S - 30/May/15

Barry Kerslake - Lead O/S - 21/May/15 with Shamina Kapadia

Led both pitches. Direct start to pitch 1 was fun. Second pitch has different lines in the rockfax guide, and climbers club guide, each showing the route going up a different groove at the top. I took the rockfax line, having been drawn towards the tat just below the roof. Took a bit of effort to gain the corner above.
Shane Willis - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/15

Out to lunch!
brew_guru - 11/Mar/15 with Tom R

ian bryant - 2015

Led both pitches. Adventure climbing. Remote, flapping birds, crashing waves and big pitches. P1 seems longer than the 17m in the book if you start from the cave. P2 is gnarly and exposed.
Dave Mahon - Lead - 26/Oct/14 with Justin Sharpe

felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/14 with Mike

P2. Dirty and not really top 50 quality.
LJC - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with ben.richards

ben.richards - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Luca Celano

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/14

best ascent, skinny dipping before doing the climb! loving the summer!
Helen Gibson - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/14 with Al Palmer

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/14

mattprince - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Joe Doherty

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/14

stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/14 with Tom thorne

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/14

Great but ripped t shirt on first pitch.
Norman_P_W - AltLd - 08/Jun/14 with Bob M

Hidden - 2nd dog - 07/Jun/14

Justin T - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Nancy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14

JM - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Stevo

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/14

Awesome climb, both pitches really good value for their grades - starting to enjoy the whole wild pulling through bulges and roofs thing.
Ciderslider - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with Ian Stephenson

a great adventure on the ruckle. First pitch went fine but went slightly right on the second pitch at the overhang. Got pumped making my way back and ended up with an airy dangle of shame before resting and completing.
ciderspider - 2nd dog - 17/May/14 with Ciderslider

andycash - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with chris day

Led P1.
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Bubbles

I led the 1st pitch and s**** myself up going for the direct start which is definitely harder than 4c. This led to serious wobble time on the rest of the pitch. Second pitch led by Shane and was excellent.
Matt77 - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Shane

lead pitch 2. Matt did the direct start with heel-hook definitely harder than a 4c move.
islandlynx - AltLd O/S - May/14

Monkey_Alan - 2nd rpt - 13/Apr/14 with Lawrence Dudley

joedoherty - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Anna Gibson

I set off to lead tyne first pitch but headed into the cave thinking that looked the easiest route. that meant guano all over my shoes meaning I couldn't trust my feet. I was already intimidated by the steepness and the location (new to Swanage) and so Steve had a pop at it. I found the moves tough but doable. Establishing in the groove is definitely the crux of the climb and the climb feels definitely different to terrain I have climbed on before. We elected for Steve to do both pitches.
puppythedog - 2nd β - 30/Nov/13 with Steve

Hey Matt, that first pitch, well the pidgeons may have flown but they'd left lots of little messages, in fact I can scatalogicaly state it was a veritably guano-fest. The abbed off threaded nut and crab were still there, corroded in. Not being very swanage fit getting round that overhang was an effort as was the rest of it, a sweat fest in the stupidly hot conditions, with mucho disco leggo in evidence. Good gear and great rock, and Dave G's first HVS, fantastic!
mikehenesy - Lead - 16/Nov/13 with Dave Garrity

I didn't tell Mike it was my first HVS, having never climbed VS at Swanage...! Took me to my limits, got really pumped on the second pitch needing a breather, not helped by the helicopter hovering low over the cliffs! Still, a brilliant day, and really mild for a November climb. Also the irony in the name of the climb...(!)
DaveGarrity - 2nd - 16/Nov/13 with Mike Henesy

Awesome climb somewhat marred by the guano on the start on pitch 1. Soft in the grade and well protected.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Nov/13 with PuppyTheDog

Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Sarp

Brilliant, adventurous route. Climbed with Andy Jordan.
sarpedon - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/13

Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Alex

AlexD - AltLd - 11/Aug/13 with Richard

Best route of the day! Marred only by the bird crap covered start in the cave. I would give it just 2 stars because of this. Once past this a tricky move into the corner (Solid 5a) gives lovely climbing to a 'cosy' ledge. The second pitch is simply spectacular! Leave something left for the awkward finishing groove.
wild_nomad - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Kevin

Lead first pitch
Jevans - AltLd O/S - Jul/13

petegruf - AltLd - 29/Jun/13 with nick k

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13

Swanage HVS doesn't come easier than this. Very nice route though. Be good if the software could be sorted out so that there weren't five pictures of climbers called Joe attached to it on here, mind.
johncoxmysteriously - AltLd - 02/Jun/13

Simon Allcock - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Mary, Wilki

mes32 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Simon Allcock, Wilki

Led P1. Started from the "window" L of Thunderball as the sea was still a bit high.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/13 with Frodo Stickel

lead pitch 2
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/13 with Alan B

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

awkward moves on first pitch, nice open climbing on second.
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Robin

John P1, me P2. Climbing as a three was straightforward thanks to the capacious half-height belay ledge. Two enjoyable pitches. Pulling through the bulge on P2 was fine and well protected. The (sandy) groove above it was surprisingly awkward though. Keep something in the tank for it.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen

Led as one pitch.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Graham Dolman

Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Ollie Dorrell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12

Committing and strenuous at the 'bulge' on the second pitch. It looked a lot like an overhang to me!
Andy Chubb - Lead - 26/Aug/12 with Chris Mellor

Brilliant hard Ruckle HVS
eroica64 - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Andy Chubb

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/12

mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with andrew caddie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/12

Rd p1
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Gareth H

GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Robert Dufton

P1 me; P2 Ann
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Ann Chong

Brilliant climbing, great fist jam on the crux.
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Luke Johnson

Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/12

Damp slimy start. Quality route great intro to the ruckle.
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 10/May/12 with Will I Am

will moy - AltLd - 10/May/12 with paul taylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Mar/12

Ian JL - 2012

PAJames - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11

yes, Dusty.
decs - AltLd - 27/Aug/11 with Bart

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with James P

Made a more direct start from boulder via heel hook. Extremely dirty after the recent monsoon conditions. Stake is there (newish one) and ab rope useful on the topout
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/11

JezzaCat - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Nevil

Hidden - Jun/11

norb - 2nd - Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Pretty wild. Got over the roof on pitch one with a ridiculously strenuous and inelegant horizontal manoeuvre. Pitch 2 is unrelenting, but great climbing.
The Ivanator - 2nd - 21/May/11 with Stewart

Lead first pitch clean - tough for a 4c, more like 5a. Slipped after crux on 2nd pitch - knackered.
matt.jj - AltLd dog - 21/May/11

dickie01 - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Julian King

Matt led the dank cave start. I had trouble passing the roof - my rucksack kept getting stuck. Arrived pumped - ready for the 5a pitch. Took a small fall when I ran out of juice.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - May/11 with Matt Jackson

Led P1
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Trevor Wilson

Led P1.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 16/Apr/11 with James Bisset

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11

Stewart Armstrong - 2011 with Ivan Bicknell

Kevster - Lead O/S - 2011

lead second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Viskii

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/10

Backed off the roof on the first pitch after a lot of attempts - pumped and having a head day. Tom then led both pitches which was a good effort. I will be back
climbtim - AltLd dog - 17/Oct/10 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10

Led P2. Great route, perfect example of the Ruckle. Hard start, sustained and techincal in the middle and then a horrendous loose earthy top-out.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Andre Clarke

Lead first pitch. Rather awkward to get out of the cave. 2nd Pitch quite hard but fantastic exposure
Andre Clarke - AltLd - 01/Aug/10 with Mon

Lead 1st pitch & 2nd the next pitch
Andre Clarke - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Alan, Mon

Ed Griffin - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Alaric

garywong - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Jason Kleine

kleinej - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/10 with Gary

Found the bridgy bit to come out of the cave very awkward and difficult. Loved the open steep exposed second pitch climbing on jugs
Alaric - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Ed

trev_f - Lead - 04/Jul/10 with Ed

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Tim

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Jul/10

A fabulous route, the first pitch (which i led) has most of the excitement. The direct start (rather than from the back of the cave) is a more natural line but is tricky and has precarious moves before you place gear - as i found out; a hold broke off in my hand, which had me slide back down to the starting boulder. Of course i jumped straight back on the same line and just found a different hold to use. It was a sobering reminder how temporary the rock can be at Swanage after a period of heavy rain fall.
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Thea Williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/10

Led pitch 1
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10

ian d f - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Ian

Theeni - 2nd O/S - Apr/10

Lead as one pitch. This has been on my tick list for a couple of years, good to do it, good route tho not as good as it looks in the guidebook.
manwithacam - Lead - 14/Mar/10 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Dan Metcalfe

DaNo123 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with martin

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/09

colkurtz - AltLd - 06/Sep/09 with Robb

sgl - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Jez

Different Steve - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/09 with Clare

Ld 4c P1
jezb1 - AltLd - 09/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

matt.woodfield - AltLd - 03/May/09

Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Sophie Nunn

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 23/Apr/09

LiLaMont - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Toby Dunford

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Lisa Paling

feilx - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/09 with Angus

breed - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Ellis Bird

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09

Hidden - 2009

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Nikki

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Rebecca Holland

I lead the first pitch and Ramon lead the second. Bridging past the roof on the first pitch felt commiting.
RocknRoll - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/08 with Ramon Marin Martinez

jamie ward - 2nd - 08/Feb/08 with Marcus Harvey

mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/07

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Dave Gale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Aug/07

+ 2nd with trev 04/07/10
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/07 with Kate

Bern - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Andy Mos

First pitch starts in a filthy cave, but the belay is good and the second pitch worth the 3 stars. Crux move bold and exposed - good fun! Btw, stakes are now replaced/visible.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07 with Sue Hazel

timharrison - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/07 with Suse

timharrison - 2nd rpt - 05/May/07 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Tim

timharrison - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/07 with Sheena

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Apr/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

brian watson - Lead O/S - 2007 with scott titt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06

featuresforfeet - 2nd - 20/Aug/06 with Patrick

AJ007 - AltLd - Aug/06 with Michael P

Ab-ed into Marmolata 1pm, topped out after 6pm, worrying Daisy in process who had been informed that the route "wouldn't take long". We did faff about exploring a recent yacht wreck, and aborted an attempt of some other route (Sinbad?) before starting Jo, which involved quite a bit of boulder-hopping to find. Mega dehydrated at top. Led both pitches, typically Hard Very Swanage. Angry gull at stance.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Tony Seale

Led thrutchy 1st pitch
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 01/May/06 with Craig Evans

dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/06 with jamie evans

Marti999 - Lead - 2006

maybe_si - Lead O/S - Sep/05

feilx - 2005

Led p1
cem - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/04 with Graham Dolman

benjino - Jan/04

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - Jun/01 with Rob B

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

WB - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/99 with Guy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

cragspud - AltLd - 1995

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

sdht - 1993

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 13/Dec/92 with Tim Dunsby

kp64zl - AltLd - Jul/92 with Jason M

Wonderful climb
ewjudge - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/92 with Dave Hopkins

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/91

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 02/Jun/91 with Joe

steve taylor - AltLd - May/89 with mark grover

DDDD - Lead O/S - 1986

Nigel Coe - 22/Oct/83 with Frank Farrell

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RobScarisbrick, Bernie L, DanChad, Hooo, lukerathmell, joedoherty, Keiran.A, JCAshman, mikehenesy, mattyork2, Simon Cahill, gilmourheid, djking1983, Steve27, Bram, johnpr, climbtim, Katy Nelson, Ybot Htulk, Dan Lane, SuseH, Albie, andyfeds, Kyuzo

Total votes cast 161
hard E10 of 55
E10 of 55
easy E11 of 55
hard HVS17 of 55
HVS34 of 55
easy HVS3 of 55
hard VS0 of 55
VS0 of 55
easy VS0 of 55
hard 5b0 of 53
5b0 of 53
easy 5b1 of 53
hard 5a3 of 53
5a47 of 53
easy 5a2 of 53
hard 4c0 of 53
4c0 of 53
easy 4c0 of 53
3 Stars35 of 53
2 Stars11 of 53
1 Star6 of 53
0 Stars1 of 53
Bag of .....0 of 53
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat