I set off to lead tyne first pitch but headed into the cave thinking that looked the easiest route. that meant guano all over my shoes meaning I couldn't trust my feet. I was already intimidated by the steepness and the location (new to Swanage) and so Steve had a pop at it. I found the moves tough but doable. Establishing in the groove is definitely the crux of the climb and the climb feels definitely different to terrain I have climbed on before. We elected for Steve to do both pitches.puppythedog - 2nd β - 30/Nov/13 with Steve
Hey Matt, that first pitch, well the pidgeons may have flown but they'd left lots of little messages, in fact I can scatalogicaly state it was a veritably guano-fest. The abbed off threaded nut and crab were still there, corroded in. Not being very swanage fit getting round that overhang was an effort as was the rest of it, a sweat fest in the stupidly hot conditions, with mucho disco leggo in evidence. Good gear and great rock, and Dave G's first HVS, fantastic!
mikehenesy - Lead - 16/Nov/13 with Dave Garrity
I didn't tell Mike it was my first HVS, having never climbed VS at Swanage...!
Took me to my limits, got really pumped on the second pitch needing a breather, not helped by the helicopter hovering low over the cliffs!
Still, a brilliant day, and really mild for a November climb. Also the irony in the name of the climb...(!)
DaveGarrity - 2nd - 16/Nov/13 with Mike Henesy
Awesome climb somewhat marred by the guano on the start on pitch 1.
Soft in the grade and well protected.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Nov/13 with PuppyTheDog
Nexonen - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Sarp
Brilliant, adventurous route. Climbed with Andy Jordan.
I_hang_dog - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/13
Luxulyan - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Alex
AlexD - AltLd - 11/Aug/13 with Richard
Best route of the day! Marred only by the bird crap covered start in the cave. I would give it just 2 stars because of this. Once past this a tricky move into the corner (Solid 5a) gives lovely climbing to a 'cosy' ledge. The second pitch is simply spectacular! Leave something left for the awkward finishing groove.
wild_nomad - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Kevin
petegruf - AltLd - 29/Jun/13 with nick k
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/13
Swanage HVS doesn't come easier than this. Very nice route though. Be good if the software could be sorted out so that there weren't five pictures of climbers called Joe attached to it on here, mind.
johncoxmysteriously - AltLd - 02/Jun/13
Simon Allcock - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Mary, Wilki
mes32 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Led P1. Started from the "window" L of Thunderball as the sea was still a bit high.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/13 with Frodo Stickel
lead pitch 2
uncontrollable - AltLd rpt - 02/Feb/13 with Alan B
ianto - 2013
Hidden - 2013
awkward moves on first pitch, nice open climbing on second.
nigel pearson - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/12 with Robin
John P1, me P2. Climbing as a three was straightforward thanks to the capacious half-height belay ledge. Two enjoyable pitches. Pulling through the bulge on P2 was fine and well protected. The (sandy) groove above it was surprisingly awkward though. Keep something in the tank for it.
ChrisBrooke - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/12 with Monika Inkpen, John Inkpen
Led as one pitch.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Graham Dolman
Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Ollie Dorrell
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/12
Committing and strenuous at the 'bulge' on the second pitch. It looked a lot like an overhang to me!
Andy Chubb - Lead - 26/Aug/12 with Chris Mellor
Brilliant hard Ruckle HVS
eroica64 - 2nd - 26/Aug/12 with Andy Chubb
Hidden - 2nd - 21/Aug/12
Hidden - Lead - 21/Aug/12
mikeyjbs - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with andrew caddie
max railing - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Luis
Hidden - Lead - 03/Aug/12
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Gareth H
GarethHall - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Robert Dufton
P1 me; P2 Ann
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Ann Chong
Brilliant climbing, great fist jam on the crux.
Edward Hastrop - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12 with Luke Johnson
Hidden - AltLd - 27/May/12
Damp slimy start. Quality route great intro to the ruckle.
paultaylor - AltLd O/S - 10/May/12 with Will I Am
will moy - AltLd - 10/May/12 with paul taylor
Led pitch 1. Amazing and committing second pitch.
Antony87 - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Mark Lowe
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/Mar/12
Ian JL - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11
decs - AltLd - 27/Aug/11 with Bart
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with James P
Made a more direct start from boulder via heel hook. Extremely dirty after the recent monsoon conditions. Stake is there (newish one) and ab rope useful on the topout
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Mark
JezzaCat - 2nd O/S - Jul/11 with Nevil
Hidden - Jun/11
norb - 2nd - Jun/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11
Pretty wild. Got over the roof on pitch one with a ridiculously strenuous and inelegant horizontal manoeuvre. Pitch 2 is unrelenting, but great climbing.
The Ivanator - 2nd - 21/May/11 with Stewart
Lead first pitch clean - tough for a 4c, more like 5a. Slipped after crux on 2nd pitch - knackered.
matt.jj - AltLd dog - 21/May/11
dickie01 - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with Julian King
Matt led the dank cave start. I had trouble passing the roof - my rucksack kept getting stuck. Arrived pumped - ready for the 5a pitch. Took a small fall when I ran out of juice.
Dave Mahon - AltLd O/S - May/11 with Matt Jackson
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Trevor
Monkey_Alan - AltLd rpt - 16/Apr/11 with James Bisset
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/11
Hidden - Lead - 07/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11
Stewart Armstrong - 2011 with Ivan Bicknell
Kevster - Lead O/S - 2011
lead second pitch
uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Viskii
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Oct/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/10
Backed off the roof on the first pitch after a lot of attempts - pumped and having a head day. Tom then led both pitches which was a good effort.
I will be back
climbtim - AltLd dog - 17/Oct/10 with Tom Thorne
Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/10
Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/10
Led P2. Great route, perfect example of the Ruckle. Hard start, sustained and techincal in the middle and then a horrendous loose earthy top-out.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Andre Clarke
Lead first pitch. Rather awkward to get out of the cave. 2nd Pitch quite hard but fantastic exposure
Andre Clarke - AltLd - 01/Aug/10 with Mon
Lead 1st pitch & 2nd the next pitch
Andre Clarke - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Alan, Mon
Ed Griffin - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Alaric
garywong - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Jason Kleine
kleinej - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/10 with Gary
Found the bridgy bit to come out of the cave very awkward and difficult. Loved the open steep exposed second pitch climbing on jugs
Alaric - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Ed
trev_f - Lead - 04/Jul/10 with Ed
Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/10 with Tim
Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Jul/10
A fabulous route, the first pitch (which i led) has most of the excitement. The direct start (rather than from the back of the cave) is a more natural line but is tricky and has precarious moves before you place gear - as i found out; a hold broke off in my hand, which had me slide back down to the starting boulder. Of course i jumped straight back on the same line and just found a different hold to use. It was a sobering reminder how temporary the rock can be at Swanage after a period of heavy rain fall.
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Thea Williams
Led pitch 1
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 22/May/10
ian d f - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Mark
markfromstoke - 2nd - 18/Apr/10 with Ian
Theeni - 2nd O/S - Apr/10
Lead as one pitch. This has been on my tick list for a couple of years, good to do it, good route tho not as good as it looks in the guidebook.
middlemarker - Lead - 14/Mar/10 with Joris
Joris.Roulleau - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Dan Metcalfe
DaNo123 - 2nd - 27/Sep/09 with martin
Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/09
colkurtz - AltLd - 06/Sep/09 with Robb
sgl - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Jez
Different Steve - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/09 with Clare
Ld 4c P1
jezb1 - AltLd - 09/Jul/09
SCB - AltLd O/S - 10/May/09 with Grant
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09
matt.woodfield - AltLd - 03/May/09
Ceridwen - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Sophie Nunn
Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 23/Apr/09
lisapaling - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Toby Dunford
tobydunford - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Lisa Paling
feilx - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/09 with Angus
breed - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Ellis Bird
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/09
Hidden - 2009
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Nikki
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Rebecca Holland
I lead the first pitch and Ramon lead the second. Bridging past the roof on the first pitch felt commiting.
RocknRoll - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/08 with Ramon Marin Martinez
jamie ward - 2nd - 08/Feb/08 with Marcus Harvey
mike.moss - Lead O/S - 2008
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Oct/07
TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Dave Gale
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Aug/07
+ 2nd with trev 04/07/10
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/07 with Kate
Bern - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Andy Mos
First pitch starts in a filthy cave, but the belay is good and the second pitch worth the 3 stars. Crux move bold and exposed - good fun!
Btw, stakes are now replaced/visible.
clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/07 with Sue Hazel
timharrison - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/07 with Suse
timharrison - 2nd rpt - 05/May/07 with Trevor Macalonan
trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Tim
timharrison - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/07 with Sheena
Hidden - AltLd - 07/Apr/07
Rob Kennard - 2007
brian watson - Lead O/S - 2007 with scott titt
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Sep/06
featuresforfeet - 2nd - 20/Aug/06 with Patrick
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/06
Ab-ed into Marmolata 1pm, topped out after 6pm, worrying Daisy in process who had been informed that the route "wouldn't take long". We did faff about exploring a recent yacht wreck, and aborted an attempt of some other route (Sinbad?) before starting Jo, which involved quite a bit of boulder-hopping to find. Mega dehydrated at top. Led both pitches, typically Hard Very Swanage. Angry gull at stance.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 06/May/06 with Tony Seale
Led thrutchy 1st pitch
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 01/May/06 with Craig Evans
dan gibson - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/06 with jamie evans
Marti999 - Lead - 2006
maybe_si - Lead O/S - Sep/05
feilx - 2005
cem - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/04 with Graham Dolman
benjino - Jan/04
aged_ape - AltLd O/S - Jun/01 with Rob B
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
WB - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/99 with Guy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996
cragspud - AltLd - 1995
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1995 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
sdht - 1993
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 13/Dec/92 with Tim Dunsby
ewjudge - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/92 with Dave Hopkins
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/91
MoWalker3 - AltLd - 02/Jun/91 with Joe
steve taylor - AltLd - May/89 with mark grover
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1986
Nigel Coe - 22/Oct/83 with Frank Farrell