The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A mind and body workout. The highlight is a Separate Reality style ceiling crack. Start at the large roof.
1) 6a, 10m. The big pitch. Gymnastically power out along the 7m horizontal jamming horror (great gear) to reach a hanging belay in a square-cut corner.
2) 5b, 12m. Traverse left to miss the next roof and follow an easy corner-crack to the faultline.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb a shallow groove then move rightwards beneath a blank headwall. Climb a thin technical crack, stepping left at the top to finish. © Rockfax
FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 23/Jul/1983.
Swanage wild pumpfests , Ultimate E5 ticklist
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)