Rockfax Description
The Chimney is one of Swanage's most popular climbs and is the first introduction to the delights of the Swanage sea cliffs for many climbers. The start of the climb is close to the low-angled descent line that gains the base of the unusual cliff feature - The Lecture Theatre. The climb is actually only a chimney for the first half of its height and it is this section that is the sternest section of the route which requires some strenuous back-and-footing on some slippery rock to overcome it. At the top of the chimney a traverse right accesses easier ground that leads to the cliff top and an iron-stake belay. Finishing straight up is a good and well-protected alternative finish at S 4a. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Swanage Green Spots, SPA Training Minimum Requirement.

Hidden 26/Nov Lead G/U
Whole Nut 10/Oct 2nd dog
with Poppet
Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 16/Aug Lead O/S
teh_mark 02/Aug 2nd rpt
Han914 02/Aug Lead O/S
joe.wahab 31/Jul Lead O/S

May have gone off route a bit? I kinda went a little left after the chimney petered out...

TomWeeks 31/Jul 2nd O/S

First ever outdoor climb, lead by Joe Wahab.

Hidden 18/Jul 2nd
gutnahofski 05/Jul 2nd O/S

climbed alternate Sev ending

with Ian Dixon
5cme2810 04/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun Lead G/U
StormShadow 28/Jun Lead

Nice climb with good protection. Looks terrible in the chimney, but do a few body/knee/arm jams and it is just fine.

with Ariel
Hidden 22/Jun Lead
bvilsue 21/Jun 2nd
with Sebastian
Hidden 14/Jun 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Joris.Roulleau 25/May Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May Lead O/S
clarendon 18/Apr 2nd
with Marcin
arl966 18/Apr 2nd

AND also S4a (direct finish)

cas smerdon 14/Apr Lead
with Mark S
Dan0Me 05/Apr Lead O/S
with Sophie C
Hidden 05/Apr Lead rpt
m_harbour 01/Feb Lead O/S
jamesthegardner 01/Feb 2nd
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Climbed early 1980,s. Also lead and soloed around this time.

with unknown
Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Matt_Hardy 22/Sep/14 Lead

Great Finish up the S 4a

with Josh Lee
EllieWoods 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Leo
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Trace 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nikinko 06/Sep/14 2nd


with jorge (nst)
nathan2day 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Hannah
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
el_monty 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Rachel
Ben Watts 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Louise 'the wife' Watts
Willbur 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with James Bridger
David Staples 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
CRiddiford 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
mattprince 05/Jul/14 Lead
with Jethro Hempworth
Darrell Read 21/Jun/14 Lead
robbiek 21/Jun/14 -
with Darrell Read
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Echna 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alex, Rich
Hidden 25/May/14 Lead O/S
GDS 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with mike, BCC
michaelp 25/May/14 2nd O/S
RobRocks 25/May/14 TR O/S
with Ali Andrews, Chris Jones, Tammy
davidbird63 18/May/14 2nd

Zep's second trad lead. A romp for him.

with Zep Mouris
Steve954 17/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice warm up. The first couple of moves were a bit damp but it did not spoil the route

with Richard
Hidden 04/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Philoosh 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
funkyvin1 12/Apr/14 Lead
Sam4242 22/Mar/14 Solo
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd
davidbird63 ??/2014 2nd O/S
with Zep Mouris
Chris Dove 05/Sep/13 2nd β

Good climb. Nice comfy ledge to debate left or right. Got three really bomber bits of gear in before the Sev option, got on the move but couldn't get the commitment. Went right and easy exit. Really long run out to the belay stakes!!!!

Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead
David Walker 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MariaT 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Kerry Williamson
dpiddock 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris P
Lapepina 04/Aug/13 2nd
with David Walker
Skullfire 03/Aug/13 2nd β
with Jun Minohara
Rich K 02/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Wayne Cheung
CallumSmith ?/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Pulsatingstar 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead
ChrisHarris1981 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Chimney and climb out were excellent. Right traverse above it was less so, easy climb but hard to protect that bit.

Pulsatingstar 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
rushy11111918 25/May/13 Lead

Finishing straight up (S 4a)

with Ralph
UnkArl 25/May/13 Solo β

Soled this to try and get 2 bits of Matt's stuck gear, only manage to get one of them out.

with Matthew Rushworth, Debbie
Debs 25/May/13 Solo
with Karl
Hidden 17/May/13 Lead
ShoelaceExpress 11/May/13 -
Lauren Davies 25/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jayne Yeomans
Steve27 20/Apr/13 Lead
with Naomi Riglar
Hidden 19/Apr/13 2nd
lyneux 13/Apr/13 2nd O/S

In the rain with big sea!

with Paul Clarkson
annak 13/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd O/S
nick_curtis01 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Easy at the grade. Used as a warm up for later climbs. Weather was overcast.

with Georgia Hancock
Georgia H ?/Mar/13 Lead
Georgia H ?/Mar/13 2nd
Steve27 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Alexk567 ??/2013 -
cem 29/Sep/12 2nd
with Alexey Kravets, Isabel Hadley
sam_craddock 09/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/12 2nd
shelagh23 16/Aug/12 Lead
ejellard 28/Jul/12 2nd β
theocelano 23/Jul/12 Lead
ben.richards 23/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Ceridwen 22/Jul/12 2nd

Strait up finish, hard for a severe (HS) in my opinion

with Anna Gibson
tev 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Maarten, Brian
Hidden 30/Jun/12 Lead
joedoherty 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Mike Irving
Hidden 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
ElBarto 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb, did the VDiff finish this time, did the S4a previously.

Wildstyle 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Felix Ottey 20/May/12 Lead O/S
ali macphee 13/May/12 Lead O/S
ali macphee 13/May/12 Lead
joshchalke 06/May/12 Lead O/S
nikinko 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Dave Cunningham
Michael-H ?/Apr/12 Lead
with Marta
pdamann 23/Mar/12 TR
with M Fielker
mark moulding ??/2012 Lead
amyblackwell 12/Nov/11 2nd
teh_mark 02/Oct/11 2nd
with Jack Tondeur
Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Pegleg 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Jackson
andrzej kierzek 25/Sep/11 Solo rpt

Seconded first, than soloed.

Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Ramblin dave 17/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Alison
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hooo 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Howard
Liz Wakelin 09/Jul/11 Lead
with Josie Herbert
Hidden 25/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Chris Redding 23/Jun/11 Solo O/S
diamond rib 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Dan Sanderson, Adam Wheeler
Liz Wakelin 11/Jun/11 2nd
with Dave Mason
andycash 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S

direct for Sev 4a

with chris day
Geoffers 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Lauren
Headjamm 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Geoffers
Philippa Arding 18/May/11 Lead

did sev 4a finish

with jo nosworthy
Richard L 15/May/11 2nd
with Liam
liamnkaz 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/11 2nd rpt
Steve954 14/May/11 2nd rpt

Great route, did the Severe 4a option straight up where the top is a little challenging but no drama's

with Andy, Rich
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead O/S
ian1234567 08/May/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/11 2nd
JezzaCat ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Stella
Stella Baylis ?/May/11 2nd O/S
with Jeremy
norb ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Ciderslider 30/Apr/11 2nd rpt
ciderspider 30/Apr/11 Lead rpt

S4a finish

ciderspider 30/Apr/11 Lead

S4a finish

with Mark Reed
MariaT 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
David Walker 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Maria
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead
AndyFunnell 10/Apr/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Solo O/S
Jayne Jackson 28/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Helen Rudkin
Neil Rigiani 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Emma lead

Ramblin dave 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Ben S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead
ciderspider 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Sev 4a finish

Ciderslider 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Direct Finnish

Jayne Jackson 08/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Charlie Evans 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S

We did the Severe 4a finish

with Jayne Jackson, Marc Bromhall
blakey ??/2011 Lead
Hidden 12/Dec/10 2nd
kim.mulji 23/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Ian
mariannekhoo 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Did the S (4a) finish.

with Sonya Crowe
tscoobydoo ?/Oct/10 Solo O/S
topropechop ?/Oct/10 2nd O/S
andyfeds 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Finished direct

with Jo W
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Solo O/S
tev 15/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Brad
bradholmes 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
risby 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Poppy belayed me, Laura clipped through and Poppy then seconded climbing the direct severe route at the top

with Poppy Wright, Laura Corfield
gibsond 14/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Did direct finish S 4a.

Danh89 ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with LukeyG
tev 25/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Gary
FrJ 24/Jul/10 Lead
with Tim Hunting
Wildstyle 17/Jul/10 2nd O/S
madguernseyboy 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ElBarto 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Did the S4a finish

with Rob Green
Alex Shermer 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Andrew Gardner
jimwight2010 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S

bit hairy not alot of protection for the severe

DrJon 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Dan
LukeyG ?/Jul/10 Lead
with Danh89
C-nunez ?/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd
ben.richards 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Took the direct alternative line as described in the Dorset Rockfax, graded at Sev 4a.

LJC 20/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
philhilo 30/May/10 Lead O/S

Good to get Harry up a proper sea cliff route. Not bad for 10!

with Harry, Tamsin mayberry
j4kub 30/May/10 Lead
with claire gibson
matt25 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 16/May/10 2nd O/S
petedunford183 12/May/10 Lead
Zygoticgema 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with KarlH
KarlH 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Finished up the Severe 4a section. Nice climb.

with Gemma
andyfeds 11/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Andy C
Indy Nile 05/Apr/10 2nd rpt
NaomiElizabeth 04/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Extremely exposed, not the greatest of routes.

Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
SJFox86 13/Mar/10 2nd O/S
abercolin 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
hayleylouise 07/Mar/10 2nd
kingborris ?/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/10 2nd O/S
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead
with Danh89
Ken Taylor ??/2010 Solo
lauramfletcher 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S
andycash 29/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with mark sinclare
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 2nd
tobydunford 19/Sep/09 Lead rpt
with Sarah Wysling
The Ivanator 06/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Rich
tev 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Stephanie
Rich God 3 06/Sep/09 Lead
martiny25 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

really good climb enjoyed this

with chris stan
Theeni 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jo
drewclimber 20/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with gordon
kingey 16/Aug/09 Lead
kingey 16/Aug/09 Lead
tdudley 14/Aug/09 2nd O/S
B-bop ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Olly
allanfarrell 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Harding
allanfarrell 25/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Parker
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd O/S
sonic46 13/Jun/09 2nd
with Danny & Stu
allanfarrell 12/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Andy Parker
Ceridwen 05/Jun/09 Solo RP

I climbed up, didn't realise the route went right, didn't fancy the way strait up as a solo, climbed back down, realised the strait up was a severe, climbed back up and finished it! Last move of severe a bit fluttery.

funkyvin1 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead β
Nozzer 30/May/09 Lead β
pippakate 30/May/09 2nd O/S
with Nozzer
Hidden 24/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead
Nozzer 10/May/09 Lead O/S
tom_holdsworth 10/May/09 Lead
with Mike Kennedy
davidnoke ?/May/09 Lead O/S
ceriantrevan ?/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Harphead 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Spicerman
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd
profb 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Pretty easy climb. Placed some poor gear earlier on but bomber as I got back into the groove. Would like to try the direct route and did feel confident of completing it but thought best on first lead for sometime.

with Steven Love
Martin 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with David Burman
Martin 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with David Burman
tobydunford 29/Mar/09 2nd rpt
LiLaMont 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
igneouscarl 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Tom Stahl
Ceridwen 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Took the alternative top section making it severe.

with Emily
roc n run 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

1st climb since last September. Very trad! Led all routes today (H forgot to pack shoes. 2nd in trainers & bare feet) Warm and sunny though breeze was cool and decidedly cold out of sun.

with H
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead
Dave Marshall 22/Feb/09 2nd
with Richard Keast
Monkey_Alan 14/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/09 2nd
jezb1 27/Jan/09 Solo
jdgaventa 30/Dec/08 Lead
with katy
Hidden 14/Dec/08 Lead
daviesp2 12/Oct/08 Lead
uncontrollable 11/Oct/08 Solo O/S

roped solo

Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd
merry_tale ?/Sep/08 -
roberts1234567890 19/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead
nick hawkins 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with samir
MontyH 12/Jul/08 Lead
with Paul Milton
cherad 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden ?/Jun/08 -
doyle12 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tristian
Kyle Rance 27/May/08 Lead
404.mac 24/May/08 Lead
hollylaura ?/May/08 -
Chris Plewa ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with zoe strong
Hidden 22/Mar/08 2nd rpt
jamie ward 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Leighton Hicks
nevostevo 11/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with emery
Hidden ??/2008 -
tavarua 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Also done the direct finish at Severe 4a

with Sarah
Hidden 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Flax 03/Nov/07 Solo rpt
Hidden 21/Oct/07 2nd
tonymw 21/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Catherine Browne
rrrock! 20/Oct/07 Lead

S 4a finish gooood :)

colinw 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden 25/Jul/07 2nd
leonjones 08/Jul/07 Lead
riddle ?/Jul/07 -
with Yasmina
steve2006 ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with david moore (age 10)
feeko 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S
munkeyseemunkeydo 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Kez
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Lead rpt
runwildjohn 20/May/07 Lead
with Chris Newsome
Steve954 19/May/07 Lead β

My first Trad lead

Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
RachaelB 21/Apr/07 Lead
with Anne Marie Walsh
homing-penguin 16/Apr/07 Lead
eldre070 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Floyd
Hidden 11/Feb/07 Lead
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Scott N ??/2007 -
Hidden 14/Oct/06 2nd
Howard1 14/Oct/06 Lead
with Fi
Hidden 28/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Ian_gozer 26/Aug/06 Solo β
Ian_gozer 13/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Greg
Hidden 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Sarah Bough 09/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Ian Johnson
jonathannewth 03/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Direct finish (S4a) definitely worthwhile

with Chris W
Marq 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Vicky Hill
Howard1 ?/Jul/06 Lead
with Fi
Hidden ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/06 2nd O/S
daviesp2 28/May/06 Lead
Paul Leader 28/May/06 2nd
with Paul D
davewing 07/May/06 Lead

Need to extend the top runner or use double ropes if traversing out right. Only just reached the belay stake after tying in to the middle of a 50m rope.

with Dave
featuresforfeet ?/May/06 2nd rpt
with Dave Wing
maybe_si 09/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
Oddjob 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Marq 02/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Got soaked many times at bottom belaying

with Alleyn Bowen (HMC)
Jonny M ?/Apr/06 2nd O/S
AJ007 ?/Mar/06 Lead
Flax ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Henry Fisher
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
broc 13/Nov/05 2nd O/S
with John
trevor macalonan 24/Sep/05 2nd O/S
tobydunford 28/Aug/05 Solo O/S
aturner99 15/Aug/05 2nd
Sparky!!!3 15/Aug/05 2nd
with alex more
Darren Cook ?/Aug/05 Lead

needs carefull belaying

with Anne Marie
featuresforfeet ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
chris murnin 22/Feb/05 Lead
JDSwain ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Ben Candlin
runwildjohn 28/Jul/04 2nd
with Alice Horton
clive-greenwood 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with Patricia
Peter Swift ??/2004 -
Hidden 17/Sep/03 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/03 2nd
Alaric 19/Jul/03 2nd rpt
with Karen B
FrankW 21/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Alex F
Alpandy ?/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Chris
Marq 06/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Isabel Kingsmill
sam coward ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Helen
Richard Horn ??/2003 -
Alaric 21/Sep/02 Lead rpt
with Bruce M, Nick, Paul F, Adrian P, Neil
Alaric ?/Feb/02 Lead rpt
with Philip D
MontyH 18/Feb/01 Lead O/S
andybenham ??/2001 -
gripped01 ?/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with Spider
Jacob Ram 13/May/00 Lead
with elisa shub
Hidden 19/Mar/00 2nd O/S
Alaric ?/Mar/00 Lead rpt

some time earlier in the year before 23rd april. possibly march.

Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Alaric 10/Oct/99 Lead rpt
with Pierre Maxted, Phil B
Alaric 15/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Rob Oram 06/Jun/99 2nd rpt

Repeat ascent

with John Hardy
migs493 24/Mar/99 Lead O/S

With a group

Rob Oram 18/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Phil Milanes
Hidden 09/May/98 Lead
MontyH 10/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
Rampikino 08/Sep/96 Lead
andyfeds 04/Aug/96 2nd O/S
with Richard B
sixties 09/Jul/96 AltLd
with hrd
nacnud 05/May/96 2nd
MontyH 08/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with M Haysom
Hidden 23/Jul/94 Lead O/S
r0b 03/May/93 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
kp64zl ?/Mar/91 2nd
with Jim
MoWalker3 16/Jul/88 -
bazzag ??/1986 -
with rob
Nigel Coe 27/Jun/81 Solo
paul59 12/May/80 2nd
with Paul Kirk
mark-abz 27/Jan/80 Lead
with Pete V
Nigel Coe 15/Jul/79 Lead
with Jackie Coe
Hidden ?/Aug/77 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Keiran.A, Hidden, simonjkinsella, Dave Page, Hidden, Hidden, simon geering, Warren Earle, Hidden, Hidden
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Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set