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Hangover** VS 5a

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[south coast winter, 3 kb]15m. A great little route up the steep wall and bulge 2m right of The Chimney to a large ledge. It has lost holds over the years, hence the upgrade. © ROCKFAX

Photo: south coast winter © tscoobydoo
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 300 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

stonemikey - 2nd - 23/Jul/14 with Edd Wratten

Willbur - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/14 with James Bridger

TimKnight - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Paul Anker

Joemanglerocks - 2nd - 14/Jun/14 with TimKnight

top roped after clean
mattc - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

SimonMarcYoung - 2nd - 01/Jun/14

Hard to be sure exactly which is the correct line
Andy Chubb - Lead O/S - 30/May/14 with Nick Gregory

riff156 - Lead rpt - 26/May/14 with Jo Smith

That was not VS 5a. Very over graded.
Pike - Lead O/S - 25/May/14 with Angus McBride, Mark Condon

Piers Harley - Lead β - 25/May/14 with Catherine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/14

islandlynx - 2nd - May/14 with matthew beals

riff156 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Hannah Carter

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/13

dpiddock - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13 with Chris P

Skullfire - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Jun Minohara

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/13

strudles - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/13

Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Hector Prieto

hector - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Julian Prieto

stonemikey - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Mark Ward

Geoffers - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Lauren

Headjamm - 2nd - 06/Jul/13 with Geoffers

Hidden - Lead - Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/13

tombushell - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Sam Husband

Sam Husband - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Tom

Nexonen - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Floris

Sophie Nunn - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/13 with Phil

JenDurden - Lead - 01/Jun/13

Stroppy - 2nd rpt - 26/May/13 with Tom Bushell

Seemed a lot easier than VS 5A...
tombushell - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Ed Hastrop

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

Tricky to place good gear at the beginning, might be best running it out a little bit
JUSTADUDE - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with clipskipper

tedburt - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13 with Aaron Burdett

dobby 200 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13

Lauren Davies - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/13 with Jayne Yeomans

Peter Lovell - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

jopayne1988 - 2nd β - 15/Apr/13

Georgia H - 2nd - Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead - 10/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12

DanC1985 - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Jorge

cdent - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/12 with Morna

andycash - 2nd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Ash, paul brackston

JenDurden - 2nd - 10/Aug/12 with TiffTiff

TiffTiff - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Jen Durden

Monkey_Alan - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/12 with John Knight

RyMole - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Martin Howson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/12

ejellard - 2nd β - 28/Jul/12

LJC - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Elias

Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12 with Anna Gibson, Alex Dennis

Wet and slippery at the crux, but even like this I don't think it's 5a. HS 4b in our guidebook.
Hooo - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Danny D, Rich B

Great route. Deffo vs but not sure about 5a!
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Adam

Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Brian Mead

Stroppy - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Rob Thomas

ali macphee - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

ali macphee - Lead - 13/May/12

Andrew23 - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Emma Bush

Nexonen - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with Jake

EmmaRoseT - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Andrew Tomlinson

Ralphus - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Karyn Anderson

torsok - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Tim

This is VERY easy at VS 5a, there are definitely no 5a moves! It is a really nice climb though.
UnkArl - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Matt

Steve27 - 2nd - 01/Apr/12 with Ewan Gilmour

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Apr/12

gilmourheid - Lead - 01/Apr/12 with Steve27

Hidden - Solo rpt - 24/Mar/12

Amy Kilpin - 2nd - 06/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Nov/11

Shorty83 - 2nd - 23/Oct/11 with Giles

tev - 2nd β - 09/Oct/11 with Tom S

nice,little run out in middle.didnt feel 5a
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11 with Thomas Vaughan

michael00693 - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

John Foster - 2nd - 30/Sep/11 with Geoff

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/11

I was very disappointed with how easy it was. I tried to stay to the left, away from the HS, but it still did not feel VS and still did not feel 5a. Apart of the grade, very nice climb.
andrzej kierzek - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/11 with Tara

Different Steve - 2nd rpt - 25/Sep/11 with Jason

ally1509 - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/11

Fiona McFarlane - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Helen King

Chris Sieradzki - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Dave

tev - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Chris

jasonpm - Lead - 30/Jul/11 with Simon Chandler

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Miles

Cat G - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11

nath_casper - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with adam, montse

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

andycash - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with chris day

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jun/11

mattshort - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Phil Porter

Jonathan Emett - Lead O/S - 17/May/11 with simon c

Simon Cahill - 2nd β - 17/May/11 with Jonathon Emett (Dorchester)

Bonkers Dog - Lead O/S - 14/May/11

ian1234567 - Solo O/S - 08/May/11

norb - Lead O/S - May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

Chris Redding - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

Chris Redding - 2nd rpt - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Neil Rigiani - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Emma Grant, Julia Wherrell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Mar/11

ChrisHarris1981 - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/11 with Tracy Elliott

gibsond - 2nd rpt - 06/Mar/11 with Stewart Walker

AlexD - 2nd rpt - 27/Feb/11 with Sophie

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Alex

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/10

uncontrollable - 2nd rpt - 25/Sep/10 with Julian, Mark J

tricky start with duff gear.
gcandlin - Lead β - 25/Sep/10 with Oliver wand

Good last route of the day. Was in a slight rush as a rain front was clearly creeping in from the west.
ben.richards - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/10 with Luca Celano

LJC - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/10 with ben.richards

Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Andre Clarke

Andre Clarke - 2nd - 15/Aug/10 with Alan

gibsond - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/10 with Pilar Martinez

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/10

eugeneth - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Matt Harris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10

WalnutHorse - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10

Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/10 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/10

Nice techy start although route finding I found was a bit difficult. Lovely climbing up grooves and over bulges although didn't find it 'easy for the grade' like others have suggested so I may have drifted off route. What ever I did I would say VS 5a was fair. Take lots of small nuts for the fiddly, flared cracks.
wild_nomad - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with John (Army)

Good little route, bit thin on gear at the bottom, but really nice moves. Fitting route name given Thea's admission of hangover influence on the day and her dropping the nut key. There is a worrying wobbling block near the top of the route.
LoopyLou - Lead - 13/Jun/10 with Thea Williams

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/10

Seth.J - Lead - 05/Jun/10 with Nerys Rees

Hidden - 2nd - 30/May/10

Purple Roni - 2nd - 30/May/10

matt25 - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

A windy day which made this less fun than it should have been.
KateBolton - 2nd - 19/May/10 with Tom Boeckx

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10

risby - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Tom Thorne

Ceridwen - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Thomasina

The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Stewart

Carly - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Richard

breed - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Chris Clifford

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/10 with Laura

Ed F - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/10

Ken Taylor - Solo - 2010

JezzaCat - TR - Nov/09 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Oct/09

lauramfletcher - 2nd O/S - 31/Oct/09

nasty climb - no gear
evhall - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Rob J

davenev - TR O/S - 10/Sep/09 with solo

No way is this 5a! I'd give it 4b if the logbook gave you the option to. Big holds and good gear all the way.
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/09 with Gary Lewin, Andy

allanfarrell - Lead RP - 08/Aug/09 with Tim Rich

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09

Never 5a, too easy.
jezb1 - Lead - 22/Jul/09

nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09

Easiest of the Swanage 5as!
BruceW - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/09 with Becca

Wimped out and side-stepped the difficult bit.
leonjones - Lead - 04/Jul/09 with Des Jerman

Indy Nile - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Leon Jones

AlexD - 2nd - 23/Jun/09 with joeurwin

joeurwin - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/09 with alex

uncontrollable - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Dean

andy jennings - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Floris

Trisha Murphy - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/09 with d_meacher

d_meacher - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/09 with Trisha Murphy

Sophie Nunn - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09

Fatclimber - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/09 with Dean Chapman

allanfarrell - TR - 12/Jun/09 with Chris Harding

Nozzer - Lead O/S - 30/May/09

easy for grade?
manwithacam - Lead - 30/May/09 with Sarah and Simon

pippakate - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09 with Nozzer

lyneux - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Chris Bull

gingerdave13 - 2nd O/S - 04/May/09 with stig

Ceridwen - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/09 with D

AndyM-LVB - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Nicolas Tardy

EmmanuelF - Lead - 01/Apr/09 with Laura

recon - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Ceri

Dieter Z - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Ceri

LardClimber - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Al Pease & Nic Brown

alpease - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with James Dynes

tumbling wizard - Mar/09

Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - Mar/09

@ndy - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/09

Alex More - Lead O/S - 2009

hrgcb - 2009 with Joe Prinold

Disco - Lead O/S - 2009

SusanH - 2nd - 2009

igneouscarl - Lead β - 29/Nov/08 with Robert Jones

sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/08 with Mark Welling

kylieo - 2nd - 21/Sep/08 with Phil

PhilR - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Kylie

Jane Weir - Lead - 21/Sep/08 with Al

Piers Harley - Lead β - 10/Sep/08 with Richard Matthews

98%monkey - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Flatcap

This seemed too easy. -- I think Phil went off-route at the end (onto a 4a).
flatcap - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Phil

gdb4060 - Lead - 08/Jun/08 with Pete

doyle12 - Lead O/S - 29/May/08 with Tristian

Phil Belcher - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Dad

aged_ape - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with KM

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Lee

JPGR - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with Steve

Matt Bennett - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08

ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Mark Beecher

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Keeley Scholes, John Inkpen

Marq - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Anthony Schwirtz

Strange little creature - Lead - Apr/08 with David Little

Chris Plewa - Lead O/S - Apr/08 with zoe strong

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/08

Gear was awful. Carl soloed the route and loved it, I lead it and hated it. Very confusing.
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 2008 with Tony

Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 24/Nov/07 with Tom Hindson

Kirill - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/07 with Charles Moreton

cem - 2nd rpt - 01/Nov/07 with Kirill Spiridonov

SamStrong - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Rob Dyer

A bit of a nerve-wracking start; the route looks fairly featureless. But once I was six feet up, I found some bomber protection and the rest of the climb was less stressful.
flatcap - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Colin

colinw - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Rich

djking1983 - Lead - 12/Sep/07 with Barry Rood

chriswitts1 - 2nd - 18/Jul/07 with Jon Smith

cliffy - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07 with Sam Densem

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/07

feeko - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/07

kenneM - Lead - Jun/07 with Bobby Hewitt

TimPerkin - Lead O/S - 06/May/07 with Dave Gale

Flax - Lead O/S - 05/May/07 with Dominic Farrell, Ben Harris

Nice VS. Would like to have done it myself, but wasn't happy with my ankle, so one for the wishlist.
djdf - 2nd - 05/May/07 with Tim George

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07

Jonny M - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Steve Moore

flyboy86 - Lead rpt - Apr/07 with Nick (kendogcatchy)

kendogcatchy - Apr/07 with Paul Martindale

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - Apr/07 with Dave

riddle - Apr/07 with Hadley Slade-Jones

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 2007

steve2006 - Lead O/S - 2007

tombushell - 2nd - 2007

nice climb, i seemed to take a line slighty more to the left, starting up the slightly blank wall and going through a couple of bulges rather than passing them on the right... although maybe Rockfax just drew their silly red line in the wrong place...
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06 with Rob Mead

bob3141 - 2nd - 29/Oct/06 with Adam Thomas

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06 with Lisa Paling

lisapaling - 2nd β - 29/Oct/06 with Toby Dunford

Wilbur - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/06 with Caine

viking - Lead O/S - Oct/06 with wilbur

mattpw - 2nd O/S - Oct/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/06

Ian_gozer - TR O/S - 26/Aug/06 with Tim

Julia Chatterton - 2nd - 25/Jun/06 with Will

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/06

rosida - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with D. Hemmings

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/06 with Kate

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/06

Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Dec/05

cem - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/05 with Michael Hosemann

Hidden - Lead rpt - Sep/05

Sparky!!!3 - 2nd - 15/Aug/05 with alex more

Paul Leader - 2nd - 04/Aug/05

good for the grade, easy get out's all the way
Darren Cook - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Addriane

sixties - Lead - 31/May/05 with hrd

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 29/May/05 with Vaughan Hewitt

Charlie Williams - Lead O/S - Mar/05 with Arthur Guy

chris murnin - Lead - 22/Feb/05

chrissloan84 - Lead O/S - 2005 with Stu

Darrell Read - Lead - 05/Dec/04

timharrison - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/04 with Naomi

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Very pleasant. A tossup between this and Isis for best VS at CT.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with Matt Baynham

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with Dave Fisher

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Richard Horn - 2003

mark4344 - Lead - 19/Aug/02 with dave tourell

MontyH - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/02

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/02

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/02

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/02

Alaric - Lead - 20/Jul/02

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2002 with Jemma Berry

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/01

MontyH - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/01

andybenham - 2001

Alaric - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/00 with Syd F

Very easy for grade.
gripped01 - Lead O/S - Jul/00 with Spider

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/00

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/99

Repeat ascent
Rob Oram - Lead rpt - 12/Jun/99 with Tom Asbridge & John Hardy

With Rinaldo (Rin)
Lepista - Lead - 31/May/99

FrankW - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/99 with Laura

Rob Oram - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/98 with Phil Milanes

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/97

tomkhoward - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/97 with SICMC

andyfeds - 2nd - 04/Aug/96 with Penny H

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/94

r0b - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/94 with Andy Jefferies

Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 09/May/93 with Chris

kp64zl - Lead - Mar/91 with Jim

bazzag - 1986 with rob

Nigel Coe - 31/Oct/81 with Jerry Hawley

Nigel Coe - Solo - 27/Jun/81

Nigel Coe - Lead - 15/Jul/79 with Jackie Coe

Nigel Coe - 07/May/78 with Allan Yeend

JohnHutch - TR - Aug/77

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, simonjkinsella, benny b, alimckay, Warren Earle, Tom Gadsden, dcomeau, djdf

Voting
Total votes cast 136
hard HVS0 of 52
HVS0 of 52
easy HVS0 of 52
hard VS1 of 52
VS19 of 52
easy VS18 of 52
hard HS12 of 52
HS2 of 52
easy HS0 of 52
hard 5b0 of 50
5b0 of 50
easy 5b0 of 50
hard 5a0 of 50
5a10 of 50
easy 5a6 of 50
hard 4c28 of 50
4c3 of 50
easy 4c3 of 50
3 Stars0 of 34
2 Stars10 of 34
1 Star22 of 34
0 Stars2 of 34
Bag of .....0 of 34
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Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 300 (1.3%)
Lead189 of 300 (63.0%)
Followed89 of 300 (29.7%)
Toproped5 of 300 (1.7%)
Alt Leads2 of 300 (0.7%)
Unknown11 of 300 (3.7%)

'Climbed'83 of 300 (27.7%)
clean O/S184 of 300 (61.3%)
clean β9 of 300 (3.0%)
clean rpt22 of 300 (7.3%)
clean RP1 of 300 (0.3%)
dnf1 of 300 (0.3%)