Rockfax Description
A great little route up the steep wall and bulge 2m right of The Chimney to a large ledge. It has lost holds over the years, hence the upgrade. © Rockfax

el_monty 23/May Lead O/S
with Seb Lee
el_monty 23/May Lead O/S
with Seb Lee
alex goodall 14/May Lead O/S
Derigain 14/May 2nd
Hidden 30/Apr Lead rpt
simibrown 25/Apr Lead
with Bernie
Gentleman Joe 16/Apr Lead O/S

Perhaps a little sparse on gear in the middle section with some patches of fairly loose rock but otherwise a good climb

Hidden 02/Apr 2nd O/S
bedmaster_3000 02/Apr 2nd O/S
with Jonny Logan, Robert Terry
richy85 31/Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Mar Lead O/S
Phil Anderson ??/2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
cdpuk 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
DrIan 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Amanda
JulianB 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Juan S 20/Sep/15 Lead
with Wei
Hidden 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S
montymoo 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with lorraine
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead
jungle 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Easy but bold start

Okecroak 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with I Butler
jotunscope 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with Ali
jez_palmer 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Krzysztof
Hidden 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S
elfka 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Hugo Gibson
Pike 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Still not VS 5a, nothing harder than 4c.

with Jen Booys, Sarah Sams
Hidden 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
matt1024 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Great route, not 5a.

with Tor
Vnockles 11/Apr/15 2nd
Russell Lovett ??/2015 2nd O/S

Climbed early 1980,s also lead around that time.

with unknown
Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
Echna 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Did a direct variation of it after we had done the same on Resurrection.

with Dalinda, Rich
montydog 21/Sep/14 2nd
mattprince 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Climbing as a three, good route

with Liam Foster, David Holmes-Evans
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
stonemikey 23/Jul/14 2nd
with Edd Wratten
Willbur 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with James Bridger
TimKnight 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 14/Jun/14 2nd
mattc 09/Jun/14 Lead dnf

top roped after clean

Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
SimonMarcYoung 01/Jun/14 2nd
Andy Chubb 30/May/14 Lead O/S

Hard to be sure exactly which is the correct line

with Nick Gregory
riff156 26/May/14 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
Pike 25/May/14 Lead O/S

That was not VS 5a. Very over graded.

with Angus McBride, Mark Condon
Piers Harley 25/May/14 Lead β
with Catherine
Rafal Malczyk 25/May/14 Lead O/S

John freaked out:(

with John
Matt77 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Felt easier than 5a. Nice route though.

with Shane
islandlynx ?/May/14 2nd
riff156 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Hannahc
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead rpt
dpiddock 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Chris P
Skullfire 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd O/S
strudles 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Julian Prieto 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
hector 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
stonemikey 07/Jul/13 Lead
with Mark Ward
Geoffers 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lauren
Headjamm 06/Jul/13 2nd
with Geoffers
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
tombushell 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Sam Husband 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Tom
Nexonen 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Floris
Sophie Nunn 01/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Phil
JenDurden 01/Jun/13 Lead
Stroppy 26/May/13 2nd rpt
tombushell 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Seemed a lot easier than VS 5A...

with Ed Hastrop
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Tricky to place good gear at the beginning, might be best running it out a little bit

clipskipper 25/May/13 2nd
tedburt 05/May/13 2nd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
dobby 200 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Lauren Davies 25/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jayne Yeomans
Peter Lovell 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
jopayne1988 15/Apr/13 2nd β
Georgia H ?/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 10/Dec/12 Lead
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
DanC1985 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jorge
cdent 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Morna
andycash 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Ash, paul brackston
JenDurden 10/Aug/12 2nd
TiffTiff 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 09/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with John Knight
RyMole 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Martin Howson
Hidden 02/Aug/12 Lead O/S
ejellard 28/Jul/12 2nd β
LJC 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Elias
Ceridwen 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Anna Gibson, Alex Dennis
Hooo 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Wet and slippery at the crux, but even like this I don't think it's 5a. HS 4b in our guidebook.

with Danny D, Rich B
brew_guru 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Great route. Deffo vs but not sure about 5a!

Dave Mahon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Brian Mead
Stroppy 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Thomas
ali macphee 13/May/12 Lead O/S
ali macphee 13/May/12 Lead
Andrew23 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Nexonen 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jake
EmmaRoseT 12/May/12 2nd
Ralphus 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Karyn Anderson
ardzeiem 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tim
UnkArl 05/May/12 Lead O/S

This is VERY easy at VS 5a, there are definitely no 5a moves! It is a really nice climb though.

with Matt
Steve27 01/Apr/12 2nd
Bob M 01/Apr/12 2nd
with Stewart Walker
gilmourheid 01/Apr/12 Lead
with Steve27
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Solo rpt
Amy Kilpin 06/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Shorty83 23/Oct/11 2nd
with Giles
tev 09/Oct/11 2nd β
with Tom S
tomshanti 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S

nice,little run out in middle.didnt feel 5a

Tangerine_Kingdom 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
adam 24 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
John Foster 30/Sep/11 2nd
with Geoff
Hidden 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
andrzej kierzek 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

I was very disappointed with how easy it was. I tried to stay to the left, away from the HS, but it still did not feel VS and still did not feel 5a. Apart of the grade, very nice climb.

with Tara
Different Steve 25/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with Jason
jasonpm 25/Sep/11 Lead
ally1509 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Helen King
Chris Sieradzki 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Dave
tev 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
jasonpm 30/Jul/11 Lead
with Simon Chandler
will_benfold 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Miles
Cat G 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
nath_casper 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with adam, montse
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
andycash 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with chris day
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd
mattshort 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Porter
Jonathan Emett 17/May/11 Lead O/S
with simon c
Simon Cahill 17/May/11 2nd β
with Jonathon Emett (Dorchester)
Bonkers Dog 14/May/11 Lead O/S
ian1234567 08/May/11 Solo O/S
norb ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 29/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Neil Rigiani 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
ChrisHarris1981 18/Mar/11 2nd O/S
gibsond 06/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Stewart Walker
AlexD 27/Feb/11 2nd rpt
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 27/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S
uncontrollable 25/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Julian, Mark J
gcandlin 25/Sep/10 Lead β

tricky start with duff gear.

with Oliver wand
ben.richards 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Good last route of the day. Was in a slight rush as a rain front was clearly creeping in from the west.

LJC 19/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Andre Clarke 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Alan
gibsond 14/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S
eugeneth 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Harris
Hidden 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
WalnutHorse 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Ceridwen 07/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Andy
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
wild_nomad 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Nice techy start although route finding I found was a bit difficult. Lovely climbing up grooves and over bulges although didn't find it 'easy for the grade' like others have suggested so I may have drifted off route. What ever I did I would say VS 5a was fair. Take lots of small nuts for the fiddly, flared cracks.

with John (Army)
LoopyLou 13/Jun/10 Lead

Good little route, bit thin on gear at the bottom, but really nice moves. Fitting route name given Thea's admission of hangover influence on the day and her dropping the nut key. There is a worrying wobbling block near the top of the route.

with Thea Williams
Hidden 13/Jun/10 2nd
Seth.J 05/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd
Purple Roni 30/May/10 2nd
matt25 30/May/10 Lead O/S
KateBolton 19/May/10 2nd

A windy day which made this less fun than it should have been.

Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
risby 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Ceridwen 03/May/10 Lead O/S
with Thomasina
The Ivanator 07/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Stewart
Carly 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Richard
breed 06/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Clifford
Dave89 07/Feb/10 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden 24/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 Solo
David Mayers ??/2010 2nd
with Paul Widdowson
JezzaCat ?/Nov/09 TR
with Andy
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Ugly Kid Jo 31/Oct/09 2nd
with Skinny
lauramfletcher 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S
evhall 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

nasty climb - no gear

with Rob J
davenev 10/Sep/09 TR O/S
with solo
Chris Sansum 09/Aug/09 Lead rpt

No way is this 5a! I'd give it 4b if the logbook gave you the option to. Big holds and good gear all the way.

with Gary Lewin, Andy
allanfarrell 08/Aug/09 Lead RP
with Tim Rich
Hidden 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
jezb1 22/Jul/09 Lead

Never 5a, too easy.

nick hawkins 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
BruceW 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Easiest of the Swanage 5as!

with Becca
leonjones 04/Jul/09 Lead

Wimped out and side-stepped the difficult bit.

Indy Nile 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
AlexD 23/Jun/09 2nd
joeurwin 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with alex
uncontrollable 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dean
andy jennings 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Floris
Trisha Murphy 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
d_meacher 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Fatclimber 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Dean Chapman
allanfarrell 12/Jun/09 TR
with Chris Harding
Nozzer 30/May/09 Lead O/S
manwithacam 30/May/09 Lead

easy for grade?

with Sarah and Simon
pippakate 30/May/09 2nd O/S
with Nozzer
lyneux 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with Chris Bull
gingerdave13 04/May/09 2nd O/S
with stig
Ceridwen 17/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with D
AndyM-LVB 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Nicolas Tardy
EmmanuelF 01/Apr/09 Lead
with Laura
recon ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Ceri
Dieter Z ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Ceri
LardClimber 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
alpease 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/09 -
Graham Westbrook ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
@ndy 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Alex More ??/2009 Lead O/S
hrgcb ??/2009 -
with Joe Prinold
Disco ??/2009 Lead O/S
SusanH ??/2009 2nd
igneouscarl 29/Nov/08 Lead β
with Robert Jones
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 26/Nov/08 Lead O/S
kylieo 21/Sep/08 2nd
with Phil
Hidden 21/Sep/08 Lead
Jane Weir 21/Sep/08 Lead
with Al
Piers Harley 10/Sep/08 Lead β
with Richard Matthews
98%monkey 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Flatcap
flatcap 20/Jul/08 2nd O/S

This seemed too easy. -- I think Phil went off-route at the end (onto a 4a).

with Phil
gdb4060 08/Jun/08 Lead
with Pete
doyle12 29/May/08 Lead O/S
with Tristian
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
aged_ape 13/May/08 Lead O/S
with KM
MarkRyder 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
JPGR 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Steve
Matt Bennett 03/May/08 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Mark Beecher
ChrisBrooke 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes, John Inkpen
Marq 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Strange little creature ?/Apr/08 Lead
with David Little
Chris Plewa ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with zoe strong
Hidden 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
Dave Foster ??/2008 Lead O/S

Gear was awful. Carl soloed the route and loved it, I lead it and hated it. Very confusing.

with Tony
Will Homoky 24/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Hindson
Kirill 01/Nov/07 Lead O/S
cem 01/Nov/07 2nd rpt
SamStrong 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Rob Dyer
flatcap 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

A bit of a nerve-wracking start; the route looks fairly featureless. But once I was six feet up, I found some bomber protection and the rest of the climb was less stressful.

with Colin
colinw 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Rich
djking1983 12/Sep/07 Lead
with Barry Rood
chriswitts1 18/Jul/07 2nd
with Jon Smith
cliffy 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Densem
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
feeko 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S
kenneM ?/Jun/07 Lead
with Bobby Hewitt
TimPerkin 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
Flax 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Dominic Farrell, Ben Harris
djdf 05/May/07 2nd

Nice VS. Would like to have done it myself, but wasn't happy with my ankle, so one for the wishlist.

with Tim George
Hidden 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Jonny M 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
flyboy86 ?/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Nick (kendogcatchy)
kendogcatchy ?/Apr/07 -
Ybot Htulk ?/Apr/07 2nd
with Dave
riddle ?/Apr/07 -
with Hadley Slade-Jones
Jesse Dufton ??/2007 Lead
steve2006 ??/2007 Lead O/S
tombushell ??/2007 2nd
adamscottthomas 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S

nice climb, i seemed to take a line slighty more to the left, starting up the slightly blank wall and going through a couple of bulges rather than passing them on the right... although maybe Rockfax just drew their silly red line in the wrong place...

bob3141 29/Oct/06 2nd
tobydunford 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 29/Oct/06 2nd β
Wilbur 14/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with Caine
viking ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with wilbur
mattpw ?/Oct/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Ian_gozer 26/Aug/06 TR O/S
with Tim
Julia Chatterton 25/Jun/06 2nd
with Will
Hidden 23/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 25/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden 11/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Dec/05 Lead O/S
cem 27/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Michael Hosemann
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead rpt
Sparky!!!3 15/Aug/05 2nd
with alex more
Paul Leader 04/Aug/05 2nd
Darren Cook ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

good for the grade, easy get out's all the way

with Addriane
sixties 31/May/05 Lead
with hrd
Andy Chubb 29/May/05 AltLd
with Vaughan Hewitt
Hidden 19/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Charlie Williams ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Arthur Guy
chris murnin 22/Feb/05 Lead
chrissloan84 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Stu
Darrell Read 05/Dec/04 Lead
timharrison 21/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Naomi
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 15/May/04 Lead O/S

Very pleasant. A tossup between this and Isis for best VS at CT.

with Matt Baynham
clive-greenwood 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Fisher
Hidden 07/Sep/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/03 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Richard Horn ??/2003 -
mark4344 19/Aug/02 Lead
with dave tourell
MontyH 12/Aug/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/02 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/02 Lead
Alaric 20/Jul/02 Lead
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Jemma Berry
pezzerrr 27/Aug/01 Lead O/S
MontyH 18/Feb/01 Lead O/S
andybenham ??/2001 -
Alaric 12/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Syd F
gripped01 ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S

Very easy for grade.

with Spider
Hidden 08/Apr/00 2nd O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Rob Oram 12/Jun/99 Lead rpt

Repeat ascent

with Tom Asbridge & John Hardy
Lepista 31/May/99 Lead

With Rinaldo (Rin)

FrankW 28/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Laura
Rob Oram 18/Jul/98 2nd O/S
with Phil Milanes
Hidden ?/Jul/97 2nd
tomkhoward 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with SICMC
andyfeds 04/Aug/96 2nd
with Penny H
The Reaper 05/Aug/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/94 2nd O/S
r0b 26/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Andy Jefferies
Didymus 09/May/93 Lead O/S
with Chris
kp64zl ?/Mar/91 Lead
with Jim
bazzag ??/1986 -
with rob
Nigel Coe 31/Oct/81 -
with Jerry Hawley
Nigel Coe 27/Jun/81 Solo
Nigel Coe 15/Jul/79 Lead
with Jackie Coe
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/78 Solo
Nigel Coe 07/May/78 -
with Allan Yeend
Hidden ?/Aug/77 TR
Martin Bennett 28/Mar/72 -
with Geoff Baker
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
bazthomas, Hidden, jing, Hidden, Hidden, simonjkinsella, Hidden, alimckay, Warren Earle, Tom Gadsden, dcomeau, djdf
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 61
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set