18m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent pitch. Climb onto a huge block just right of Pearly Gate, then head up and follow a groove just left of the half-height overhang. © Rockfax

FA. H.Evans, P.Deketeleare 16.2.69 16/Feb/1969


ClimberDateStyle
Neilaw 09/Jul Lead O/S
Sophie Nunn 09/Jul 2nd rpt
with Floris, Neil W
Wine and climb 08/Jul Lead O/S
with truan
el_monty 23/May 2nd β
with Seb Lee
mlcumberlidge 17/Apr 2nd O/S
cdpuk 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
JulianB 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead
cem 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Pero 19/Sep/15 2nd
jfms 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

I found this nice and straightforward for the grade

Hidden 05/Jul/15 2nd
Alex the Alex 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Lovely little route. Very friendly by Swanage standards.

with Rog
RKirke 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Okecroak 30/May/15 2nd O/S
with I Butler
WillGraham1 30/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead O/S
will_benfold 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Pleasantly sustained, but the gear is all there.

KittyKat 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Will Benfold
Dan0Me 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
Kevster 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
tonevert 22/Mar/15 2nd
with Kevin Faux
cheeky 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andreas
mark4344 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Matt Payne
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
KRB 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good climbing. Finished on this one after taking Ollie up a few VSs on this scorching morning. Jumped in the sea straight after to cool off.

with Oliver Bridges
cem 12/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Not the quickest of ascents. Last route of the day, I was knackered and the rock was very greasy/soapy: I don't think I've ever chalked up so much.

petegruf 12/Jul/14 2nd
uncontrollable 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Daj
Monkey_Alan 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with DAJ Johnson, Frodo Stickel
wild_nomad 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route with sustained difficulty, but nothing desperate and no real crux. Good gear. Good bet for a first E1 lead.

with Paul Day
Andre Clarke 10/Aug/13 TR O/S

Sparsely protected so elected to go for top rope

andrzej kierzek 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tara
Sophie Nunn 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Phil
Stroppy 26/May/13 Lead O/S
tombushell 26/May/13 2nd
with Ed Hastrop
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
givemetea 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Ali Taylor
ben.richards 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Small loose block 2/3rds height on the right of the groove - perfect for putting nuts behind but not so perfect for falling onto (I'd imagine). Took the nut out and gunned it to the nice jugs above. Other than that, it was very nice climbing on adequate holds all the way.

LJC 23/Jul/12 2nd O/S
maffujones 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with David Fisher
LJC 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Good gear when needed.

with Theo
theocelano 23/Jun/12 2nd
Dave Mahon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

A great route. steep but with good gear, mainly nuts.

with Brian Mead
Alex Mason 11/Apr/12 2nd β

Cool Aesthetic route. Reminds me of a mini-Wall of the Worlds.

Mr Tickle 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Nice route with nice moves through the crux, nice to be back at the steepness of Swanage.

Hidden ?/Apr/12 2nd
Amy Kilpin 06/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead
risby 14/Aug/11 2nd dog
Monkey_Alan 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice route, good gear throghout.

jon_gill1 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
stevorobs3 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with stef mesch
Helen Gibson 20/May/11 Lead

First E1 at Swanage! Lovely moves and good pro.

dan gibson 20/May/11 2nd rpt
with helen gibson
Hidden 07/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 -
London Luke ?/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead
colkurtz 24/Apr/11 2nd
with Robb
Rhys Jones 16/Apr/11 Lead
with bonita
garywong 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
kleinej 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Gary
Ceridwen 07/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Andy
clipskipper 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Wing
davewing 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Lee
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
KateBolton 19/May/10 2nd dog

A hell of a climb. Started well but the crux had two very slippery finger holds which I fell off, twice. Then couldn't get a piece of gear out and dropped the nut key. Ended up using everything to get up, even my chin. Pretty damn desperate!

The Ivanator 07/Apr/10 2nd
with Stewart
Carly 07/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Richard
davenev 10/Sep/09 TR O/S
with solo
Different Steve 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
MarkRyder 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Lee
The Ivanator 25/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Result! My first E1.

with Sean
Perryman 25/Jun/09 Lead
Trisha Murphy 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
d_meacher 16/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
lyneux 09/May/09 2nd O/S
with Chris Bull
jezb1 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Really liked the route. My first clean onsight E1, bit soft in the grade?

dannymoo99 02/May/09 2nd
with Jez Brown
Ceridwen 25/Apr/09 Lead dog
Ceridwen 23/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Sophie Nunn 23/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Shona H 20/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Charlie Moore
Dan_Carroll 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Soft for the grade.

with Rebecca Holland
Beck Holland 13/Apr/09 2nd dog
tobydunford 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/09 -
Ed Babs 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Trevor
trev_f 22/Aug/08 2nd β
with Ed
Matt Shepherd 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Dave Foster ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Nice but seemed quite short.

with Carl
jamie ward 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Good route but very awkward for me to get gear out and Marcus to place! Climb the steep groove strenously, 2 in situ wires above groove.

with Marcus Harvey
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
riddle 31/May/08 Lead O/S

Fab route, The crux is cheeky, great climbing.

with Yasmina
Matt Bennett 03/May/08 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Beecher
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd β
SGD 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Marq 03/May/08 2nd O/S
with Andy Livingstone
Tobes ?/May/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
brian watson ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Paul Milton
Kirill 01/Nov/07 2nd
cem 01/Nov/07 Lead rpt
Graham Westbrook ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Theeni ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S

Just!

with Matt Kemp
MontyH 25/Aug/07 2nd
with Brian and Paul
Tom Livingstone ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
kenneM ?/Jul/07 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
feeko 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S
JDSwain 25/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Alex Balch
Hidden 30/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with AJ
AJ007 ?/Mar/06 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Hidden 11/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 30/Oct/04 Lead O/S

My first extreme on mainland Britain. Led by skin of teeth.

with Dan & Tim
cem 19/Jun/04 2nd
Richard Horn ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
feilx ??/2004 -
charlesmfrench 13/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
CMacD ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Aug/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/May/90 Lead
with steve kerr
kp64zl ?/May/90 2nd
with Dave
MoWalker3 18/Sep/88 TR
Nigel Coe 31/Oct/81 Lead
with Jerry Hawley
Nigel Coe 02/Sep/79 2nd
with Frank Farrell
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/78 Lead
with Roger Wilson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Echna, Hidden, bazthomas, GeorgT, dereke12000, Matt250, Stroppy, olidea, lostinmidlands, Hidden, andyfeds, allanfarrell, dcomeau
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 39
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set