Great route and amazing moves. Moving left over the top of the overhangs was fantastic - just enough holds to make it secure. The final overhanging crack was brutal. Awesome lead Stu!MarkyGee - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Stu Howie
How easy - Lead - 07/Sep/14 with Markygee
Led this after being battered by freak waves at the base last December. Didn't put any gear in the top third until I got to easy ground, as the didn't seem to be any, and I didn't want to hang around! Yes, I did the E1 finish as well I now know!
kim.mulji - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Monica
louise spent a while on the crux trying holds but worked it out as a clean second.
CurlyStevo - Lead - 31/Aug/14 with louise_london_climber
cheeky - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Andreas
Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Aug/14
Did the right route this time, after about 15 mins going up and coming back down in a variety of spots... bit hard to find the right line
Montecore - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Matt Ray
uncontrollable - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/14 with Daj
nice route, up the groove between the clean wall and the big blocks, passing a layback flake then two steps left passing a rusty peg stub to the second nose then straight up the groove just on your right, you can go straight up at the end maintaining the grade.
MoWalker3 - 25/Jun/14 with Cormac
timmyhobby - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14
Piers Harley - 2nd - 26/May/14 with Catherine
Was advised against doing this climb by Piers who said he had done it before and it was unpleasant. I insisted and he was right, it wasn't the nicest climb. The step out is a bit wary as you don't think it should be this difficult for the grade and so you keep looking for an easier route. Felt good once the route had been done though.
Katsmiff - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Piers Harley
andyclimber - 2nd O/S - 25/May/14
Strayed onto E1 on left to finish. Thought it was hard !
tiga271 - 2nd - 25/May/14 with Brian
Shane strayed onto the E1 but did a great job holding it together!
Matt77 - 2nd - 04/May/14 with Shane
islandlynx - Lead O/S - May/14
**** WARNING **** THIS CLIMB IS WRONGLY DESCRIBED IN BOTH TEXT AND TOPO IN THE 2005 & 2012 ROCKFAX. DO NOT GO TOO FAR LEFT ON THE TRAVERSE. THE LINE GOES BACK UP AND DIAGONALLY RIGHT IN A JUGGY / BLOCKY STEEP GROOVE WHERE THIS CLIMBER IS PICTURED.
AT THE END OF THE GROOVE THE OVERHANG FORCES YOU OUT LEFT.
IF THE CORRECT LINE IS FOLLOWED IT IS A LOVELY MID GRADE VS WITH MOSTLY GOOD GEAR AND ROCK! (I'VE DONE IT TWICE).
THERE IS A REST IF YOU INITIALLY TRAVERSE LEFT A BIT PAST THE JUGGY GROOVE, WHICH ALLOWS THE ARMS TO RECUPERATE AND GEAR TO BE PLACED, JUST REMEMBER TO STEP BACK RIGHT AGAIN!
CurlyStevo - 21/Apr/14
ciderspider - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Ciderslider
SANDBAG !!!!! Although I really enjoyed this route I was really glad to get to the top - I got pumped in my right arm on the top wall and a little scared (as I didn't think I sorted brilliant gear). I did think at one stage I was gonna take a ride. Great route - not ever gonna do it again
Ciderslider - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Ian Stephenson
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/13
stonemikey - Lead - 07/Jul/13 with Mark Ward
CallumSmith - Lead - Jul/13
Stroppy - 2nd rpt - 26/May/13 with Tom Bushell
tombushell - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Ed Hastrop
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/13
JUSTADUDE - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with clipskipper
Deviated onto Tenuicollis E1 5a, very poorly protected end.
DanC1985 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/13 with Trevor
Fell after climbing about 10 or 15 feet above traverse, 30 foot fall, gear pop meant I swung into recess and came to a halt 5 feet above the ground. Broke ribs and back and collapsed lung, helicopter rescue, 2 days in hospital, walked out - very lucky boy!
Reading other reviews of this climb, it seems I may have strayed onto the E1 to the left as a direct result of the Rockfax description.
neilwiltshire - Lead dnf - 21/Apr/13 with Tim Cooper
Leo49 - 2013
Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12
givemetea - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ali Taylor
This route is alot of fun and very exposed and steep. I could not here Anna and she was struggling had to lower her down, and abb to get the gear.
Dale - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Anna
LJC - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Elias
Great climb, but still think this is another league compared to the other VS's at cattle troughs.....
Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/12 with Anna Gibson, Alex Dennis
AlexD - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/12 with Anna, Ceri
maffujones - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with David Fisher
Half Pint Lizz - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/12 with Sonya Crowe
Typical Swanage VS. Hard and sustained, but all there.
LozM - Lead - 01/Jul/12 with Mark J
Joemanglerocks - Lead - 30/Jun/12 with TimKnight
TimKnight - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Paul Anker
dpm23 - Lead - 20/Jun/12
Stroppy - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Rob Thomas
Piers Harley - 2nd - 18/May/12 with Jeremy Windsor
jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/12 with chris Lyness
Awesome route would get 3 stars on stanage no doubt. Middle of the grade VS climbing with reasonable rests between the steepenings, mostly solid rock and good protection (although a little spaced for the 4a finish).
CurlyStevo - Lead - Mar/12 with Rob
Ian JL - 2012
joedoherty - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/11 with Matt Prince
andrzej kierzek - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Tara
michael00693 - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Adam Ryan
adam 24 - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11
Different Steve - Lead - 25/Sep/11 with Jason
jasoncash - 2nd O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Andy Cash
andycash - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with jason cash
Montecore - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with Rina Sorathia
def1010 - 17/Sep/11
tev - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Max
Outstanding all the way with lots of varied climbing. Solid VS!
wild_nomad - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11
the boy done well: i thought this was tough to second but andrew made light work of it (points deducted for dropping a set of nuts)
katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with andrew funnell
AndyFunnell - Lead - 29/Aug/11 with katherinesydney
think i followed the wrong line, and ended up on the last half of the E1 to the left, not shown in the rockfax guide
nickevens - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Gramps
Julian Prieto - 2nd rpt - 19/Aug/11 with Ian Clifford
Moved too far left after the overhang despite what my partner was telling me! Didn't like the look of the proper line. Good gear except for the top which felt a bit run out to me. It was the wrong line though.
cliffy - Lead - 19/Aug/11 with Julian Prieto
Excellent job. Went the right way this time, up corner, not too far left up face.
risby - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/11 with Alan Blanchflower
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 14/Aug/11 with Ris Wright
Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Aug/11
jasonpm - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Simon Chandler
Very scary after the step left. Suspect I may have ended up on the E1.
will_benfold - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Miles
Cat G - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/11
hardest VS ive done in a while, pritty good gear otherwise i would have been really bricking it. relatively sustained.
jo86 - Lead - 26/Jun/11 with Neil Nand
Sustained throughout the climb & pretty hard for a VS, seemed to have good gear though.
ElBarto - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/11 with Joseph Toller
Awesome route. Gear is good but the finish up the wall is hard for VS 4c!
Nexonen - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Jake
mattshort - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Phil Porter
dan gibson - 2nd O/S - 20/May/11 with helen gibson
Jonathan Emett - 2nd O/S - 17/May/11 with simon c
No falls but many rests, off route and back on made for a tiring finish, need longer runners to reduce drag next time!
Simon Cahill - Lead dog - 17/May/11 with Jonathon Emett (Dorchester)
Hidden - Lead - 14/May/11
Rhys Jones - 14/May/11 with CalshotDave
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11
Itching to do some harder routes I quickly nipped up the start of this route into the arch and then eased round the traverse but then could not the next bit. Hanging around, failing to get gear in higher up, my hands slipped and I fell. Luckily into air and not onto rock but, ignominiously, upsidedown.
risby - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/11 with Jo
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/11
Steve27 - 2nd - 27/Mar/11 with Tom Kett
lostinmidlands - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with tris
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/11
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/10
Danh89 - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/10 with C-nunez, LukeyG
C-nunez - Lead - Sep/10 with Luke Goble
LukeyG - Sep/10 with C-nunez
LukeyG - Sep/10 with Danh89
Richard Morgan - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10 with Ivan, Toby Kluth
Pleased to lead this after previously seconding, tough proposition at the grade.
The Ivanator - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Richard M, Toby
Climbed easier VS's in Swanage
Ybot Htulk - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Richard and Ivan, Ivan
Good holds and good gear but few easy rests. Pretty straight forward if you can keep a cool head-I imagine. Dislodged a sizable block pulling through at the top - beware. Always good when you don't kill your seconds though!
mikehenesy - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Kate, Paul Smith
No easy rests on this route. I still think Mike took the more difficult line at opposite the top of the arch and he could have gone further left. He dislodged a large block at the top which was 'exciting' for Paul and I at the bottom.
KateBolton - 2nd - 18/Aug/10 with Paul Smith, mikehenesy
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 15/Aug/10 with Andre Clarke
Stiff for VS 4C
Andre Clarke - Lead dog - 15/Aug/10 with Alan
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10
eugeneth - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Matt Harris
risby - 2nd rpt - 31/Jul/10 with Julian Prieto
Julian Prieto - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with Ris Wright
Bold route, and thanks to my stupidly placed runners it felt like I was climbing with a sack of spuds tied to my leg! (rope drag is killer!)
ben.richards - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Luca Celano
Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10
garywong - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Jason Kleine
I rested after the step left. Couldn't commit to which way to go.
kleinej - Lead dog - 24/Jul/10 with Gary
WalnutHorse - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/10
LJC - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/10 with ben.richards
Beer demons after wine and brai.
ScottyD - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10
Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 07/Jul/10 with Andy
James B - Lead - 04/Jul/10 with Rob
Garron - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10
garywong - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Harry Trevelyan
Wonderful wonderful climb, never desperate, great moves, wonderful positions moving left around the bulge and direct finish up the wall.
LoopyLou - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Thea Williams
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10 with Dave Wing
Seth.J - AltLd - 05/Jun/10 with Disco Dave
APuddy - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/10
Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/10
risby - 2nd O/S - 15/May/10 with Tom Thorne
Really nice route! I think Rockfax has the wrong line drawn as it shows it ascending the face after stepping left above the overhang - seems to make a lot more sense to step into the big groove on the right, and then step left once you are blocked off by the next overhang (and this seems to be what the CC guidebook tells you to do). Seems like there is some consensus on this from the comments below.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10 with Matt Lunn
Not friendly, particularly after the step left on to the face. Poor gear, poor holds, well worth HVS 5a I would say.
Andy Chubb - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Gideon Castro
The Ivanator - 2nd rpt - 07/Apr/10 with Stewart
nickdunn - 2nd - 07/Mar/10 with Chris Dennis
Ken Taylor - 2010
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09
Hidden - 2nd - 31/Oct/09
jezb1 - Lead - 03/Oct/09
Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 03/Oct/09 with Jez Brown
davenev - TR O/S - 10/Sep/09 with solo
Different Steve - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/09 with Clare
Tough and pumpy as the last climb of the day, lots of climbing for an 18m pitch, feels longer!
The Ivanator - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Sean
Perryman - Lead - 25/Jun/09 with Ivan Bicknell
AlexD - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/09 with joeurwin
joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/09 with alex
wasn't sure of finish route and went too far left (miss-guided by Rockfax, that's my excuse anyway). Lowered off and abbed in to retrieve gear. Well miffed.
Indy Nile - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/09 with Leon Jones
andy jennings - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Floris
Ceridwen - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/09 with Benjy
Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/09
Alexstone - Lead O/S - Jun/09
Nozzer - Lead dnf - 30/May/09
tedburt - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Josh Coombs
Really nice but wasn't my turn to lead :( Next time!
jezb1 - 2nd - 02/May/09
Completely shit myself!!
dannymoo99 - Lead - 02/May/09 with Jez Brown
Ceridwen - 2nd rpt - 25/Apr/09 with Mark
Ceridwen - Lead dog - 17/Apr/09 with D
recon - 2nd O/S - Apr/09 with Ceri
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/09
igneouscarl - 2nd - 28/Mar/09 with Tom Stahl
uncontrollable - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Alan B
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 14/Mar/09 with Frodo Stickel
hrgcb - 2009 with Joe Prinold
Disco - Lead dnf - 2009
Dieter Z - 2nd O/S - 2009 with Ceri
Rollo - Lead β - 10/Aug/08 with Mike
Matt Shepherd - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/08
Excellent VS up until you have completed traverse,Rockfax guidebook says 'Ascend a bulging groove on the left!That would put you onto Tenuicollis E1 5a Thin on Gear!! It should read 'Climb the overhang-chocked groove which is obvious' CC Guide. lazy route description from Rockfax Beware!!!
jamie ward - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/08 with Marcus Harvey
Really enjoyed this - thought the step left was going to be the crux, but then got onto the headwall and realised this was! bit loose on top.
Ant Mace - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Lloyd Cowdry
gdb4060 - Lead - 07/Jun/08 with Pete
aged_ape - Lead O/S - 15/May/08 with KM
Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 03/May/08
ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with Mark Beecher and Andrew Livingstone
SGD - Lead O/S - 03/May/08
Marq - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08 with Anthony Schwirtz
Great climb, a moment of anxiety after moving onto the open face but moves are flowing and easy once you get moving.
poopleonard - 2nd O/S - May/08 with Anthony mace
Very hard in the grade. The crux comes high up... get the gear in and go boldly :-)
Strange little creature - Lead - Apr/08 with David Little
Hidden - Lead dnf - 2008
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07
Kirill - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/07 with Charles Moreton
cem - 2nd rpt - 01/Nov/07 with Kirill Spiridonov
Graham Westbrook - Lead O/S - Oct/07
Theeni - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Matt Kemp
kenneM - Lead - Jun/07 with Booby Hewitt
Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/07
Stumped by the start
Flax - Lead dnf - 05/May/07
Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/07
eldre070 - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/07 with Rob Floyd
JWB - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07
Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/07
riddle - Lead - Apr/07 with Hadley Slade-Jones
Tom Gadsden - Lead dog - Mar/07 with Kit
Kit Gillibrand - 2nd - Mar/07 with Tom Gadsden
trevor macalonan - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/07 with pete swift
Richard White - Lead O/S - 2007
Hidden - 2nd - 12/Nov/06
Hidden - Lead - 12/Nov/06
Prob one of the scariest VS's ever done,really nice climbing, but all the jugs were loose blocks hangin off the cliff - yes swanage!
tobydunford - Lead rpt - 29/Oct/06 with Lisa Paling
bob3141 - Lead - 29/Oct/06 with Adam Thomas
lisapaling - 2nd β - 29/Oct/06 with Toby Dunford
Sophie Nunn - Lead - 05/Oct/06
existing debt - 2nd - 09/Sep/06 with mat perks
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/06
Piers Harley - Lead β - 06/Sep/06 with Rob Marson
Went on to lead this one, its a pretty tough one for me at the time.
stuntsbyjon - 2nd RP - Sep/06
Ian_gozer - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/06 with Greg
Marq - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06 with Vicky Hill
Richard Horn - Lead O/S - Apr/06
Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/06 with Kate
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/06 with kat
Airy traverse. No rests and pumpy.
peas - 2nd O/S - 22/Jan/06 with Chris Ford
Neil Adams - Lead O/S - 2006
Kyuzo - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/05 with Bernard Lam
featuresforfeet - Lead - Oct/05 with Monkey
thompson1000 - 18/Sep/05
Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/05
TimPerkin - 2nd - 31/Jul/05 with Dave Gale
Andy Chubb - AltLd - 29/May/05 with Vaughan Hewitt
Charlie Williams - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with Gary Dicker
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005
chrisbevins - 2nd O/S - 2005
Had ego bruised by this earlier in year but succeeded on second attempt. No pushover even after traverse beneath roofs. Top of grade for sure.
Owen W-G - Lead RP - 19/Sep/04 with Andrew
timharrison - Lead dog - 21/Aug/04 with Naomi
Hidden - 2nd - Aug/04
cem - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/04 with Graham Dolman
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with Dave Fisher
charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/03 with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
simon kimber - 2nd - Sep/03 with Paul Burren
Hidden - Lead RP - 20/Jul/03
Hidden - Lead - 20/Jul/03
Alaric - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/03 with Karen B
Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/03
Peter Swift - 2nd dog - 2003 with dom
simon kimber - Lead O/S - 2002 with Jemma Berry
MontyH - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/01 with Andy Young
andybenham - 2001
Nice climb and certainly committing.
Rob Oram - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/00 with John Hardy
Marti999 - Lead - 2000
Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/99
FrankW - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/98 with Joe
Probably my favourite ever climbing experience.
Good weather, good company, exciting overhang, loose belay stake ;)
tomkhoward - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/97 with Andy Plumb
five - Lead O/S - Mar/97
andyfeds - Lead - 04/Aug/96 with Penny H
Rob Kennard - 1996 with James Dunlop
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/94
fell off this!
GuyM - 1994
sdht - 1993
kp64zl - Lead - Mar/91 with Jim
ChrisJD - 2nd - 19/Jun/90
steve taylor - Lead O/S - Sep/89 with john the chef
Nigel Coe - Lead - 02/Sep/79 with Frank Farrell