Rockfax Description
A popular route with varied climbing in good situations. Start at the left-hand side of a high, arched recess 5m right of a large block. Climb the groove on the left until a move left gain the lip of an overhang. Pull up slightly left then back right into a bulging groove. Climb this to finish up two short walls. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
See http://www.rockfax.com/news/2014/04/22/isis-swanage-important-topo-correction/

FA. D.Rowlands 1963

Ticklists: Swanage A-Z, Orange Spot Swanage.

LovelyMrTom 09/Oct Lead O/S

Went too far left, like so many others before. Hard and poorly protected. I'm sure the actual line is really nice though.

Hidden 02/Oct 2nd
matteo_8 25/Sep Lead dog
cookieman 23/Aug Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 31/Jul 2nd O/S
George Frisby 31/Jul Lead O/S

Amazing climbing throughout. Have to think about the ropes otherwise get horrible drag at the top.

Keiran.A 30/Jul Lead dog
with John Harlow
Wine and climb 08/Jul Lead O/S
with truan
Hidden 03/Jul 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 03/Jul Lead O/S

As many have before took the wrong line in the 2012 guide and onto a bit of the E1 next door. Rope tangles also an issue.

lecko 07/Jun 2nd
with Lu
Rollo 04/Jun Lead O/S
with Ben M, jsk
benwmorgan 04/Jun 2nd dog
with Rollo
jennysknight 04/Jun 2nd
with Roly
chris sm 30/May Lead O/S
with Damien ?
el_monty 23/May Lead O/S
with Seb Lee
JenDurden 15/May 2nd
with Sion F-R, Andy Jordan
andy dunn 08/May Lead O/S
with Claire
Claireybloomers 08/May 2nd
with Andy
simibrown 25/Apr 2nd
with Bernie
Hidden 17/Apr 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 31/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Oct/15 2nd O/S
cdpuk 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Two cams stuck! Fortunately retrieved with a bit of work.

with Ian Shore
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead
Pero 19/Sep/15 Lead
Philoosh 06/Sep/15 Lead dog

Took a HUGE whipper on this one just before moving left and unintentionally wedged a nut in good. Sorted on the second try!!!

Pete_Frost 29/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Very enjoyable - deserves its stars. Never desperate but rewards a thoughtful approach.

with Blake Williams
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
garywong 02/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/15 2nd dog
jaimer 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with André Knirch
montymoo 29/Jul/15 2nd

great lead by L

with lorraine
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead rpt
James_L88 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Powell
powelli 20/Jun/15 2nd
Alex the Alex 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Awesome! Really good exposure and steep moves. Finished a little too far right through the overhangs in the corner at about the same grade. Good value VS.

with Sam, Rog
Sam Husband 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Alex Thompson, Woger
RKirke 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Moritz L 31/May/15 Lead O/S

Great route

with Alice
alice270 31/May/15 2nd dog

Had a little rest when I saw Moritz, he was not impressed at this. Nice climb, though was concentrating a lot of taking gear out.

with Moritz
Okecroak 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with I Butler
jez_palmer 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Requires commitment but the moves feel solid and the gear is good

with Krzysztof
euge74 ??/2015 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead dnf
mdjb 27/Sep/14 -
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
How easy 07/Sep/14 Lead
kim.mulji 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Led this after being battered by freak waves at the base last December. Didn't put any gear in the top third until I got to easy ground, as the didn't seem to be any, and I didn't want to hang around! Yes, I did the E1 finish as well I now know!

with Monica
CurlyStevo 31/Aug/14 Lead

louise spent a while on the crux trying holds but worked it out as a clean second.

with louise_london_climber
cheeky 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Andreas
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd dog
Montecore 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Did the right route this time, after about 15 mins going up and coming back down in a variety of spots... bit hard to find the right line

with Matt Ray
uncontrollable 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Daj
MoWalker3 25/Jun/14 -

nice route, up the groove between the clean wall and the big blocks, passing a layback flake then two steps left passing a rusty peg stub to the second nose then straight up the groove just on your right, you can go straight up at the end maintaining the grade.

with Cormac
timmyhobby 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
hannahbannana 08/Jun/14 2nd
Piers Harley 26/May/14 2nd
with Catherine
Katsmiff 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Was advised against doing this climb by Piers who said he had done it before and it was unpleasant. I insisted and he was right, it wasn't the nicest climb. The step out is a bit wary as you don't think it should be this difficult for the grade and so you keep looking for an easier route. Felt good once the route had been done though.

andyclimber 25/May/14 2nd O/S
tiga271 25/May/14 2nd

Strayed onto E1 on left to finish. Thought it was hard !

with Brian
Matt77 04/May/14 2nd

Shane strayed onto the E1 but did a great job holding it together!

with Shane
islandlynx ?/May/14 Lead O/S
CurlyStevo 21/Apr/14 -


ciderspider 18/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Ciderslider 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

SANDBAG !!!!! Although I really enjoyed this route I was really glad to get to the top - I got pumped in my right arm on the top wall and a little scared (as I didn't think I sorted brilliant gear). I did think at one stage I was gonna take a ride. Great route - not ever gonna do it again Now know that i went completely off route and carried on left onto the main wall (rather than stepping right and up into the groove) very sketchy for a few moves with little in the way of gear.

Hidden 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
stonemikey 07/Jul/13 Lead
with Mark Ward
Callum Smith ?/Jul/13 Lead
Stroppy 26/May/13 2nd rpt
tombushell 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ed Hastrop
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 25/May/13 2nd O/S
clipskipper 25/May/13 Lead
DanC1985 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Deviated onto Tenuicollis E1 5a, very poorly protected end.

with Trevor
neilwiltshire 21/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Fell after climbing about 10 or 15 feet above traverse, 30 foot fall, gear pop meant I swung into recess and came to a halt 5 feet above the ground. Broke ribs and back and collapsed lung, helicopter rescue, 2 days in hospital, walked out - very lucky boy! Reading other reviews of this climb, it seems I may have strayed onto the E1 to the left as a direct result of the Rockfax description.

with Tim Cooper
Leo49 ??/2013 -
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
givemetea 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ali Taylor
Dale ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S

This route is alot of fun and very exposed and steep. I could not here Anna and she was struggling had to lower her down, and abb to get the gear.

with Anna
LJC 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Elias
Ceridwen 22/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Great climb, but still think this is another league compared to the other VS's at cattle troughs.....

with Anna Gibson, Alex Dennis
AlexD 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Anna, Ceri
maffujones 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with David Fisher
Half Pint Lizz 14/Jul/12 2nd dog
with Sonya Crowe
LozM 01/Jul/12 Lead

Typical Swanage VS. Hard and sustained, but all there.

with Mark J
Joemanglerocks 30/Jun/12 Lead
TimKnight 30/Jun/12 2nd O/S
dpm23 20/Jun/12 Lead
Stroppy 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Thomas
Piers Harley 18/May/12 2nd


with Jeremy Windsor
jon_gill1 06/May/12 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness
CurlyStevo ?/Mar/12 Lead

Awesome route would get 3 stars on stanage no doubt. Middle of the grade VS climbing with reasonable rests between the steepenings, mostly solid rock and good protection (although a little spaced for the 4a finish).

with Rob
Ian JL ??/2012 -
joedoherty 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
mattprince 09/Oct/11 2nd
andrzej kierzek 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Tara
Tangerine_Kingdom 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
adam 24 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Different Steve 25/Sep/11 Lead
with Jason
jasonpm 25/Sep/11 2nd
jasoncash 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
andycash 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with jason cash
Montecore 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Rina Sorathia
def1010 17/Sep/11 -
tev 11/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Max
wild_nomad 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Outstanding all the way with lots of varied climbing. Solid VS!

katherinesydney 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S

the boy done well: i thought this was tough to second but andrew made light work of it (points deducted for dropping a set of nuts)

AndyFunnell 29/Aug/11 Lead
nickevens 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

think i followed the wrong line, and ended up on the last half of the E1 to the left, not shown in the rockfax guide

with Gramps
Julian Prieto 19/Aug/11 2nd rpt
cliffy 19/Aug/11 Lead

Moved too far left after the overhang despite what my partner was telling me! Didn't like the look of the proper line. Good gear except for the top which felt a bit run out to me. It was the wrong line though.

risby 14/Aug/11 Lead rpt

Excellent job. Went the right way this time, up corner, not too far left up face.

Monkey_Alan 14/Aug/11 2nd
Bob M 14/Aug/11 2nd
with Stewart Walker
Hidden 10/Aug/11 Lead dog
jasonpm 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Simon Chandler
will_benfold 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Very scary after the step left. Suspect I may have ended up on the E1.

with Miles
Cat G 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
jo86 26/Jun/11 Lead

hardest VS ive done in a while, pritty good gear otherwise i would have been really bricking it. relatively sustained.

ElBarto 26/Jun/11 2nd dog

Sustained throughout the climb & pretty hard for a VS, seemed to have good gear though.

Nexonen 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Gear is good but the finish up the wall is hard for VS 4c!

with Jake
mattshort 29/May/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Porter
dan gibson 20/May/11 2nd O/S
with helen gibson
Jonathan Emett 17/May/11 2nd O/S
with simon c
Simon Cahill 17/May/11 Lead dog

No falls but many rests, off route and back on made for a tiring finish, need longer runners to reduce drag next time!

with Jonathon Emett (Dorchester)
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead
Rhys Jones 14/May/11 -
with CalshotDave
Hidden 01/May/11 2nd O/S
risby 10/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Itching to do some harder routes I quickly nipped up the start of this route into the arch and then eased round the traverse but then could not the next bit. Hanging around, failing to get gear in higher up, my hands slipped and I fell. Luckily into air and not onto rock but, ignominiously, upsidedown.

with Jo
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
lostinmidlands 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with tris
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
topsyturvy ??/2011 -

Date approximate.

with Marcin
Hidden 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Danh89 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
C-nunez ?/Sep/10 Lead
LukeyG ?/Sep/10 -
with C-nunez
LukeyG ?/Sep/10 -
with Danh89
Richard Morgan 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf
The Ivanator 30/Aug/10 Lead

Pleased to lead this after previously seconding, tough proposition at the grade.

Ybot Htulk 30/Aug/10 2nd

Climbed easier VS's in Swanage

with Richard and Ivan, Ivan
mikehenesy 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Good holds and good gear but few easy rests. Pretty straight forward if you can keep a cool head-I imagine. Dislodged a sizable block pulling through at the top - beware. Always good when you don't kill your seconds though!

with Kate, Paul Smith
KateBolton 18/Aug/10 2nd

No easy rests on this route. I still think Mike took the more difficult line at opposite the top of the arch and he could have gone further left. He dislodged a large block at the top which was 'exciting' for Paul and I at the bottom.

with Paul Smith, mikehenesy
Monkey_Alan 15/Aug/10 2nd
Andre Clarke 15/Aug/10 Lead dog

Stiff for VS 4C

with Alan
Hidden 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
eugeneth 07/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Matt Harris
risby 31/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Julian Prieto 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ben.richards 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Bold route, and thanks to my stupidly placed runners it felt like I was climbing with a sack of spuds tied to my leg! (rope drag is killer!)

Hidden 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
garywong 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
kleinej 24/Jul/10 Lead dog

I rested after the step left. Couldn't commit to which way to go.

with Gary
WalnutHorse 22/Jul/10 Lead O/S
LJC 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S
ScottyD 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Beer demons after wine and brai.

Ceridwen 07/Jul/10 2nd rpt
with Andy
James B 04/Jul/10 Lead
with Rob
Garron 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
garywong 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S
LoopyLou 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Wonderful wonderful climb, never desperate, great moves, wonderful positions moving left around the bulge and direct finish up the wall.

with Thea Williams
clipskipper 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Dave Wing
Seth.J 05/Jun/10 AltLd
APuddy 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
risby 15/May/10 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 25/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Really nice route! I think Rockfax has the wrong line drawn as it shows it ascending the face after stepping left above the overhang - seems to make a lot more sense to step into the big groove on the right, and then step left once you are blocked off by the next overhang (and this seems to be what the CC guidebook tells you to do). Seems like there is some consensus on this from the comments below.

with Matt Lunn
Andy Chubb 24/Apr/10 Lead

Not friendly, particularly after the step left on to the face. Poor gear, poor holds, well worth HVS 5a I would say.

with Gideon Castro
The Ivanator 07/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with Stewart
nickdunn 07/Mar/10 2nd
Denoir 07/Mar/10 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
David Mayers ??/2010 2nd
with Paul Widdowson
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Ugly Kid Jo 31/Oct/09 2nd
with Skinny
jezb1 03/Oct/09 Lead

Nice route

Ceridwen 03/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Jez Brown
davenev 10/Sep/09 TR O/S
with solo
Different Steve 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Clare
The Ivanator 25/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Tough and pumpy as the last climb of the day, lots of climbing for an 18m pitch, feels longer!

with Sean
Perryman 25/Jun/09 Lead
AlexD 23/Jun/09 Lead O/S


joeurwin 23/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with alex
Indy Nile 21/Jun/09 Lead dnf

wasn't sure of finish route and went too far left (miss-guided by Rockfax, that's my excuse anyway). Lowered off and abbed in to retrieve gear. Well miffed.

andy jennings 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Floris
Ceridwen 16/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Benjy
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Alexstone ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Nozzer 30/May/09 Lead dnf
tedburt 23/May/09 2nd O/S
jezb1 02/May/09 2nd

Really nice but wasn't my turn to lead :( Next time!

dannymoo99 02/May/09 Lead

Completely shit myself!!

with Jez Brown
Ceridwen 25/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Mark
Ceridwen 17/Apr/09 Lead dog
with D
recon ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Ceri
Hidden 31/Mar/09 Lead O/S
igneouscarl 28/Mar/09 2nd


with Tom Stahl
uncontrollable 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Alan B
Monkey_Alan 14/Mar/09 2nd
hrgcb ??/2009 -
with Joe Prinold
Disco ??/2009 Lead dnf
Dieter Z ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Ceri
Ceridwen ??/2009 Lead O/S
Rollo 10/Aug/08 Lead β
with Mike
Matt Shepherd 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
mike.moss 10/Aug/08 2nd
jamie ward 29/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Excellent VS up until you have completed traverse,Rockfax guidebook says 'Ascend a bulging groove on the left!That would put you onto Tenuicollis E1 5a Thin on Gear!! It should read 'Climb the overhang-chocked groove which is obvious' CC Guide. lazy route description from Rockfax Beware!!!

with Marcus Harvey
Ant Mace 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this - thought the step left was going to be the crux, but then got onto the headwall and realised this was! bit loose on top.

with Lloyd Cowdry
gdb4060 07/Jun/08 Lead
with Pete
aged_ape 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with KM
Matt Bennett 03/May/08 Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mark Beecher and Andrew Livingstone
SGD 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Marq 03/May/08 2nd O/S
poopleonard ?/May/08 2nd O/S

Great climb, a moment of anxiety after moving onto the open face but moves are flowing and easy once you get moving.

with Anthony mace
Strange little creature ?/Apr/08 Lead

Very hard in the grade. The crux comes high up... get the gear in and go boldly :-)

with David Little
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Kirill 01/Nov/07 Lead O/S
cem 01/Nov/07 2nd rpt
Graham Westbrook ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Theeni ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Kemp
kenneM ?/Jun/07 Lead
with Booby Hewitt
Hidden 20/May/07 2nd
Flax 05/May/07 Lead dnf

Stumped by the start

Hidden 08/Apr/07 Lead
eldre070 08/Apr/07 Lead dnf
with Rob Floyd
JWB 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/07 2nd
riddle ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Hadley Slade-Jones
Tom Gadsden ?/Mar/07 Lead dog
with Kit
Kit Gillibrand ?/Mar/07 2nd
trevor macalonan 13/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Bob M 12/Nov/06 2nd
Norman_P_W 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Bob M
tobydunford 29/Oct/06 Lead rpt

Prob one of the scariest VS's ever done,really nice climbing, but all the jugs were loose blocks hangin off the cliff - yes swanage!

bob3141 29/Oct/06 Lead
LiLaMont 29/Oct/06 2nd β
Hidden 29/Oct/06 2nd
Sophie Nunn 05/Oct/06 Lead
existing debt 09/Sep/06 2nd
with mat perks
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 06/Sep/06 Lead β
with Rob Marson
stuntsbyjon ?/Sep/06 2nd RP

Went on to lead this one, its a pretty tough one for me at the time.

Ian_gozer 13/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Greg
Marq 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Vicky Hill
Richard Horn ?/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 25/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Kate
beanfingers 22/Jan/06 Lead O/S

proper bo

with kat
peas 22/Jan/06 2nd O/S

Airy traverse. No rests and pumpy.

with Chris Ford
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead O/S
Kyuzo 14/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Bernard Lam
featuresforfeet ?/Oct/05 Lead


with Monkey
thompson1000 18/Sep/05 -
Hidden 29/Aug/05 Lead dnf
TimPerkin 31/Jul/05 2nd
with Dave Gale
Andy Chubb 29/May/05 AltLd
with Vaughan Hewitt
Charlie Williams ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Gary Dicker
Hidden 19/Mar/05 2nd β
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
chrisbevins ??/2005 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 19/Sep/04 Lead RP

Had ego bruised by this earlier in year but succeeded on second attempt. No pushover even after traverse beneath roofs. Top of grade for sure.

with Andrew
timharrison 21/Aug/04 Lead dog
with Naomi
Hidden ?/Aug/04 2nd
cem 19/Jun/04 Lead O/S
clive-greenwood 15/May/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Fisher
charlesmfrench 13/Sep/03 2nd O/S
with Caroline Waterhouse, Ian Waterhouse
simon kimber ?/Sep/03 2nd
with Paul Burren
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Jul/03 Lead
Alaric 19/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Karen B
Hidden 08/Jun/03 Lead β
Peter Swift ??/2003 2nd dog
with dom
Hidden 23/Jun/02 Lead O/S
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Jemma Berry
MontyH 09/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Andy Young
andybenham ??/2001 -
Rob Oram 08/Jul/00 Lead O/S

Nice climb and certainly committing.

with John Hardy
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Bob M 22/Aug/99 2nd
with Jill Stevens
FrankW 13/Sep/98 2nd O/S
with Joe
tomkhoward 01/Jun/97 Lead O/S

Probably my favourite ever climbing experience. Good weather, good company, exciting overhang, loose belay stake ;)

with Andy Plumb
five ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
andyfeds 04/Aug/96 Lead
with Penny H
Rob Kennard ??/1996 -
with James Dunlop
Hidden 23/Jul/94 2nd O/S
GuyM ??/1994 -

fell off this!

sdht ??/1993 -
kp64zl ?/Mar/91 Lead
with Jim
Hidden 19/Jun/90 2nd
steve taylor ?/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with john the chef
Russell Lovett ??/1984 2nd O/S

Date climbed sometimes in early 1980,s.

with Tim Freeman
Nigel Coe 02/Sep/79 Lead
with Frank Farrell
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 79
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 75
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set