Rockfax Description
The last good route in this area is a serious undertaking. Climb up the right-hand corner of the arch to a foot-ledge near the top. Step up right onto a slab for a tricky and bold finish. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 8.2.89 08/Feb/1989

uncontrollable 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Daj
Monkey_Alan 29/Jun/14 2nd
with DAJ Johnson, Frodo Stickel
Sophie Nunn 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Sue
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead rpt
pelvoux 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Did it when it was graded HVS 5a 6 years ago. Finished straight under the overhang, reaching slightly to the right over the overhang; committed move. Good climb with interesting moves.

with Jon
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
JUSTADUDE 25/May/13 2nd dog

Brilliant climb! Should have rest in the first narrow roof section before taking on the crux, couldnt reach a hold to move up over the top bulge and ended up getting pumped, had to hang on rope for a sec to then tackle it, will have to do again clean!

clipskipper 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Escape from the chimney tricky. Finished direct through the roof rather than up the RH slab. Grade probably unaffected.

with Neil
Hidden ??/2013 -
Steve27 01/Apr/12 2nd

Went right too early - probably lowered the grade to VS

jasonpm 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Simon Chandler
stevorobs3 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with stef mesch
Monkey_Alan 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Got up near the top of the corner, couldn't see how to get any further and eventually lowered off.

Andre Clarke 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Alan
David Mayers ??/2010 2nd
with Stuart Howard
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead dnf
d_meacher 16/Jun/09 Lead dnf

Pulled off a big hold onthe arete just before moving onto the slab so retreated.

Ceridwen 17/Apr/09 2nd dog
with D
Dan_Carroll 13/Apr/09 Lead dnf

worked out after that I went too high into the corner before trying to move round onto the slab, found there was no gear, got pumped and a little scared, then it got dark. down climbed then ab'd in to get the gear. some loose rock near the top of the corner too. felt hard and a little bold for the grade. will hopefully go back and finish it properly at some point.

AndyM-LVB 05/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Bottled it on the last wall section, even after getting on to it! After reading some of the comments on here, I'm not so gutted now. It was a serious route, quite commiting for a HVS, the guidebook description is very deceptive.

with Nicolas Tardy
EmmanuelF 01/Apr/09 Lead O/S

committing, scary as hell, and the final slab took me a while to work out, very "sequency". But a really great route nonetheless. Would probably deserve more stars but more of a warning too. This is followed by a typical loose mud and rocks finish and a belay by rattly a peg in the ground.

with Laura
Dieter Z ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S

f**k that was hard

with Ceri
tobydunford 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
LiLaMont 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/09 -
recon ??/2009 -

corker! was sweating blood.. and bleeding sweat..

with Ceri
Dave Foster ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Much procrastination before rocking onto slab. Climbed too high into corner first go and had to reverse. Gear felt spaced and not reet cracky. Had Coastguard helicopter hovering behind us for five minutes. Great experience. Scary and hard for HVS.

with Carl
Bern ?/Jun/08 2nd

more like E1 5b, gear not very good either.

with Andy Mos
aged_ape 15/May/08 Lead O/S
with KM
Marti999 06/Jun/07 Lead
djdf 06/May/07 2nd β

First time anywhere near a HVS. Most of it was OK and I could feasibly have done myself, didn't like the last bit though. Could maybe have made the stepover on to the footledge/slab, but the tricky fingery stuff beyond that would have spit me off just after I cacked myslef.

with Alex Borresen
pelvoux 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S

First HVS, tough finish

with Heloise, Jonathan
nicnic 21/Apr/07 -

I decided to try this as one of my first HVSs, partly because the guidebook said it was well protected. Fell about 16ft off on the face and smashed my knees. I think i was very lucky to just have cuts, swelling and bruises. I returned the day after to have a look and saw someone else take the same fall. I think an amendment to the next edition of the guidebook could prevent some serious injuries.

riddle ?/Apr/07 Lead

Hadley lead the corner to the roof and fell, i TR'd this and finished the route. Must lead it proper next time.

with Hadley Slade-Jones
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 28/May/06 2nd O/S
with AJ
AJ007 ?/Mar/06 2nd
Tom Gadsden ??/2006 2nd dog

Difficult last moves

with Mike
timharrison ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Hard, scary. Not sure if it was nice or not

with Corryne
Charlie Williams ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Gary Dicker
Hidden 19/Mar/05 Lead dnf
Owen W-G 19/Sep/04 Lead O/S

Scary, and another skin of teeth lead. Saw some E2-(or so he claimed) climber taking a flyer from the usual point just after my lead.

with Andrew
feilx ??/2004 -
gripped01 ?/Jul/00 2nd O/S

Serious fall for lead climber.

with Spider
kp64zl ?/Oct/96 TR
Nigel Coe ??/1990 -

Approx date

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ropeboy, allanfarrell
High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set