45m, 3 pitches.
Climbs the south (long or Loch Lurgainn) side of the pinnacle. A fine sustained and varied route on the mountain’s most spectacular pinnacle. It has potential quality, given a little traffic.
1. 15m 5b Climb the front of the lower buttress over a cracked bulge to step left and up to a stance.
2. 15m 5b Climb a thin crack on the right to move right to the col.
3. 15m 5b Return left and climb over a bulge via twin cracks to a ledge. Climb a classic layback and jam crack to thread a keyhole between the twin summits. Abseil descent down the short side.
1. 15m 5b Climb the front of the lower buttress over a cracked bulge to step left and up to a stance.
2. 15m 5b Climb a thin crack on the right to move right to the col.
3. 15m 5b Return left and climb over a bulge via twin cracks to a ledge. Climb a classic layback and jam crack to thread a keyhole between the twin summits. Abseil descent down the short side.
J Mackenzie, A Nisbet 26/May/2008.
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Route of Interest
Pieces of Eight
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Camas Mor)