91m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine, mid-height traverse of this exciting area all the way from Varina to finish right of Arapiles Syndrome. It can be done in rough seas. Before starting you need to pre-place a rope on the twin stakes above the Lean Machine area, for the last belay.
1) 5a, 18m. From 8m up Varina, traverse right (small thread) past a groove to belay on a cracked prow. This is reported to be a serious pitch with ground-fall potential and it can be avoided.
2) 5a, 30m. Drop down and rightwards across the Zoolookologie bay thread. Continue past a slight prow and vague scoop. Belay down and right of a cracked pillar.
3) 4c, 35m. Climb down and right to traverse a weakness past various old threads, in the centre of a bay, to a comfortable stance on the far side in a groove.
4) 4c, 15m. Follow the corner to the top and a terrace where you hope to find your pre-placed rope. Pull out on the rope to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Robertson, Brian Tilley 28/Aug/1997

Luxulyan 21/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Short lived attempt. Skipped pitch 1 as it seemed pointless. Started up on Uncry These Tears, got a couple of metres up with no protection in, pulled a hold off, fell backward onto the ledge and tumbled towards the sea, the rope came tight just as my head was going to take a dive into the sea. Nice one for putting a bit of gear in at your feet soph!

with Sophie
Ed Babs 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

P2 only with Mark Ryder 3 Mar 2012. P3 with Marti. Trundled the big loose block by the P2 belay. Splash!

with Marti
Marti999 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

skipped first pitch as seems abit pointless;the loose block by p2 belay now been removed.

jcook1980 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Dan Moore
MarkRyder 03/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Finished straight up after P2. Character building top out.

with Ed
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead dnf
davenev 11/Dec/10 AltLd
with luke
Mr Tickle 11/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Very interesting. First pitch not much gear and diagram for the first pitch in the guidebook isn't correct. 2nd pitch was good and fairly easy climbing but loose in places. Wasn't quite sure i belayed in the correct place but not a great belay with a massive loose block in front of me. First two pitchs took a while route finding and finding/setting up belays with lots of rope drag. Getting dark and decided to escape from 2nd belay upwards to very loose and steep ground and finished in the dark! very scary. Nice one Dave for the 3rd improvised pitch!

with davenev
clipskipper 04/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

1st pitch very thin on gear with groundfall potential. Second and third an absolute delight - good rock and good gear in a fantastic position, and warm sun in November! Don't set the second belay too soon, though, otherwise you won't have enough on a 50m rope to reach the third :-)

with Sue Hazel
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Steve27, andyfeds, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 5
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set