The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
A particularly notable first pitch. Start on the flat, wave washed boulder west and below of the fin-backed boulder at the start of Old Faithful.
1) 4c, 14m. Climb up to the bulge below the wide gritstonesque crack. Pull over the bulge and climb the crack to belay on a ledge at the faultline.
2) 5a, 21m. Climb up into the recess above and then swing left around the arete and climb steeply up to a ledge. Press on up short grooves to a small roof, move left to the end of a roof then climb straight up to a solid exit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start on the flat wave washed boulder west and below of the fin back boulder at the start of Old Faithful.
1) 4c. Climb up to the bulge below the wide gritstonesque crack. Pull over bulge and climb the crack to belay on ledge.
2) 5a. Climb up in to recess and the swing left around the arĂȘte and climb steeply up to ledge, press on up short grooves to small roof, move left to end of roof then climb straight up to a solid exit.
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)