UKC

Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A particularly notable first pitch. Start on the flat, wave washed boulder west and below of the fin-backed boulder at the start of Old Faithful.
1) 4c, 14m. Climb up to the bulge below the wide gritstonesque crack. Pull over the bulge and climb the crack to belay on a ledge at the faultline.
2) 5a, 21m. Climb up into the recess above and then swing left around the arete and climb steeply up to a ledge. Press on up short grooves to a small roof, move left to the end of a roof then climb straight up to a solid exit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start on the flat wave washed boulder west and below of the fin back boulder at the start of Old Faithful.
1) 4c. Climb up to the bulge below the wide gritstonesque crack. Pull over bulge and climb the crack to belay on ledge.
2) 5a. Climb up in to recess and the swing left around the arĂȘte and climb steeply up to ledge, press on up short grooves to small roof, move left to end of roof then climb straight up to a solid exit.

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Followed
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lightning Wall Direct

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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