The ENE Ridge of Sgorr Ban is a Grade II winter climb, possibly changed in character during the 09/10 season thanks to a rockfall at the hardest section.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 26/Feb -

Extremely blustery on summit. Steve had fun while roped!

Martin Newman, Steve King
MartinN 26/Feb Lead O/S

Nice snow conditions on the arrete with rock steps near the top having snow on the ledges and semi frozen turf. Moved together except for one step which we pitched. Very strong winds which got worse the higher we got. It was an effort getting to the summit of Sgorr Dhearg, almost got blown off our feet several times. Turned straight round at the summit and descended the north ridge. This route is described in the Cicerone Press guide as School House Ridge and marked as such on the BMC map.

Oli 24/Feb Solo O/S

Fun scrambling as a start to the Ballachulisch horseshoe.

Mike Dudley
Stephen Halliday 24/Feb Solo
gav 14/Feb Solo

Only really snowy at the top

amaciejk 14/Feb Solo
Hairbear75 31/Jan -

Very windy, but enjoyable.

Gemma Hope, Andy Hope
steveq 01/Mar/14 -
Hidden 16/Feb/14 -
Louvet 16/Feb/14 -
ear4mb 11/Feb/14 AltLd

Lots of new snow, plus windy conditions slowed us down a bit but an excellent afternoon out. Rock steps straightforward although new snow and drifting meant some insecurity and digging for good axe placements at times.

ralphio 09/Feb/14 Lead

Moved together over the rock steps. Not too difficult or exposed.

Stuart Hurworth 09/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed on a training course - moving together and using various types of belay, direct, body, Italian hitch and 'normal'. Fun and easy, but very windy at top and on descent ridge!

Manchester Climbing Club
Hidden 07/Feb/14 -
arose 30/Jan/14 Solo

Great fun - Alfie should remember his crampons next time though!

Alfie Tipler, Miles Mconville
Howard J 12/Jan/14 Solo

AKA School House Ridge. Mostly fresh snow with patches of good neve. Mostly straightforward, Grade I/easy Grade II, except for one section which I was reluctant to tackle solo, so I followed a ledge leftwards and up a small gully on well-consolidated neve. Traces of old tracks showed I wasn't the only one to make this choice. An enjoyable and easily accessible route and seemed fairly safe from avalanche risk.

dan_the_dingo 29/Mar/13 Solo
TizzyA 23/Feb/13 Solo
colenn 05/Jan/12 Solo
Hidden 14/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Feb/11 Solo O/S
Mark Collins 13/Feb/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Jan/11 Solo
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
colin fagan 13/Mar/10 Solo

Cracking ridge walk/scramble with one or two interesting steps which were quite icy. Done this as part of ballachulish horseshoe.

halfaseesaw 07/Mar/10 Solo dnf

Thaw overnight stripped much of the snow, so the interesting bit was bare. Decided to err on the side of caution and turned back. However, superb views and a good day out anyway.

sgl0jd 06/Jan/10 -

Beautiful. Really alpine feel to it, especially the upper snow arete.

jdgaventa 04/Jan/10 Solo

as part of Ballachulish Horseshoe

jacob, katy
mountainbagger 01/Jan/10 Solo

Great route (as found in the back of Dan Bailey's Scotland's Mountain Ridges in the list of routes he couldn't fit into the actual book!) in winter condition. Couple of tricky bits, one particularly (for a Grade I) as I got it all wrong and ended up precariously balanced, but got through it! Nobody else on it at the time, so really nice day. The walk up to summit of Sgorr Ban (so really this is Sgorr Ban's ENE Ridge, not Sgorr Dhearg's) was really nice and the ridge across to Sgorr Dhearg was delightful - one of the best days walking I've ever had. Went on to summit of Sgorr Dhonuill, but that was a bit less pleasant, though a great looking rocky top. Recommended if in condition, and I guess an easy scramble in the summer.

Mrs Mountainbagger
Simon Caldwell 31/Dec/09 -

Difficulties short lived, but awkward and exposed while they lasted. Looked like we were the only ones who persevered, everyone behind us retreated and traversed to the north ridge (or off the mountain completely) - I must have made it look desperate!

CathS 31/Dec/03 Solo O/S

The rock step felt more like Grade II than Grade I. Tricky and exposed. The rest of the ridge was very straightforward.

Iain Thow 16/Dec/82 Solo
Paul Sumbler, Mel Sumbler, Jane Henderson, John Tyler, Dave Bermingham, Kev Hobbs, Andy Sutton, Ian Burwood
High II
Mid II
Low II
High I/II
Mid I/II
Low I/II
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set