Scorpion** IV 5
120m, 3 pitches. the left facing corner system high in the crag.1)40m, 3 Start up iced slabs as for East Hutaple Grooves, belay on the steep terrace below the buttress wall. 2) 40m, 3 Traverse 10m right to the end of the ledge and follow the obvious chimney to beneath the steep headwall. 3)40m, 5 The crux pitch! Climb the steep headwall via 2 chockstones in an exposed position, finishing up a narrow turf gangway to belay well back on the right. Scrambling remains.
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This climb is in 1 logbook, and on no wishlists.

Wildy steep and pumpy, the crux pitch felt like solid 6 in the soft snow. Harder than Bowfell Buttress in the same condition but very well protected if you have the strength to place it..
John Kettle - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/10

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