165m, 5 pitches.
Start as for Blitzkrieg. pitch 1.From the top of a spike climb thin ice to reach the turfy groove above, follow this to a tree belay. Pitch 2. climb the steep groove behind the belay and as soon as possible move leftwards onto a slab. traverse delicately leftwards to belay round the arete on the Groove belay. pitch 3. step back right and climb the arete until it steepens, strenuous moves rightwards (crux) lead to more turf and up to a small cave, exit this on the right and climb up to belay on the Pillar Traverse. Pitch 4. Climb the groove behind the belay and move right to gain a steep crack, climb it and the ground above to belay below a line of overhangs. Pitch 5. Climb through the overhang via a wide crack, this leads up to a right trending ramp which is followed to easy ground.
S Frost / D Almond 08/Jan/2010.
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Route of Interest
Scott Report
Grade: VII ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))