Jammed Boulder Gully(Winter)** III
110m, 3 pitches. Jammed Boulder Gully in Winter conditions. Start up the gully (easy snow slope in snowy conditions), thread belay just below the jammed boulder. A steeper ice section leads round the right hand side of the boulder (the guide book suggest it might be possible to go underneath the boulder?!). There is a choice of belays in the continuation gully - best to belay as high as possible as on the last pitch it's a good 50 metres to a decent belay. The final pitch follows the gully, passing a short steeper section.
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This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

What, a winter route on Dinas Mot?! Quite snowy but certainly in climable condition. Decided to do it because it was a windy day with snow forecast to come in later in the day, so didn't want to get caught out up high and didn't fancy the queues in Idwal - so were dismayed to find four teams on the route / queueing. A sixth team rolled up shortly after we arrived. Paul did an extra 50m pitch below the normal starting ledge, which features a bit short steep ice step that provided the hardest climbing of the route, then I/II ground. I plodded up the first pitch to just below the jammed boulder, which was a walk really. Tom led the crux pitch round the block, which we agreed was about 2 rather than 4 as the guide book suggests. I finished with the nice upper gully, which was mostly a plod but had a nice steeper step at about 2, shame it wasn't more sustained. While we were waiting, I also soloed nice mixed ground just to the right of the snow plod pitch, going up to what must have been the first belay of Jammed Boulder Buttress. The ice on P2 of that route was looking pretty good, thick enough for screws in places.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10 with Paul, Tom

Different Steve - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10 with Clare

Pay Attention - AltLd - 10/Jan/10

I lead the crux pitch. Laurence had started up the buttress climb to the right, however this wasn't in condition. A lot of ice got knocked down by the party above! Which meant we had to hide under the jammed boulder for a good hour.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10 with Laurence King

wilkie14c - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with Mark Wilson, Dave Clarke

Mark Wilson23 - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with Dave Clarke, Paul blanchard

Hidden - Jan/10

adi bryant - Solo - Feb/05

Hidden - Lead - 2004

BenTiffin - AltLd - Feb/98

Total votes cast 8
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