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Rébuffat*** TD

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[Beats graduation. Aiguille du Midi south face, Rebuffat route, pitch 3., 2 kb]250m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: Beats graduation. Aiguille du Midi south face, Rebuffat route, pitch 3. © long
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This climb is in 135 logbooks, and on 45 wishlists.

First on the route, moved fast enough not to be overtaken so had some quiet. Great climbing, probably the best rock route Ive ever done! Top is still a bit snowy... Lots of pegs as well as insitu gear on the route, but route finding at the top is still hard.
MSchobitz - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Calum

Absolutely amazing! Really enjoyed this. Route finding was tricky but only if you are first on the route like us.
Calum Wadsworth - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with micki

S-rack was nice although full of pegs and other bits and pieces! Nice granite, bit snowy!
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14 with Edvin

McGuinness - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Mike

Lazy start, 12am at the base of the route, topped out at 15:30 and skied home.
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with Graham Mcgrath

didnt get out my bed till 10am, climbed in T-shirts, then skied home. it dosn't get much better
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with fulton

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Mar/14

jcw - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Very good climbing on pitch 2.
HansStuttgart - Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/13

Lead all pitches, very nice climbing, got a bit lost lost at the end, wound up on 6B+ aerete at the very top of the pillar.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13

This was hard! Filmed two Irish guys being rescued by helicopter after one of them sprained an ankle curtesy of a lead fall. Finished off in the company of an older mountain guide (who owned some badass nuts :p) Had to aid up some bolts at the end as we went off route at the top. Abseiled onto the Midi Station to be greeted by Robby with a can of super strength beer; shame about stacking it at the bottom of the abseil with the tourists watching!
MPSBunny - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/13 with John Brannock

Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Chris Hill

tuukka - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/13 with Maija

Truly amazing route. long and sustained at the grade. Did a F6a Contamine start pitch under the roof rather than original start. As usual a very busy day on route but luckily we were first. The S crack is a wonderful pitch on solid beautiful granite. My hands were wrecked afterward.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Simon Frost, Dave Garry

frost - AltLd - 15/Aug/13 with Adam, D Garry

Up on the first lift, brew and then started. Done by 1330, climbing as a three. Thomas took a whipper on the 3rd pitch which mashed my hands holding it, dampened my enthusiasm to take the lead after that.
Theeni - 2nd - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/13

mcgovern - AltLd - Aug/13 with TommyMcG

TommyMcG - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Conor McGovern

Peter Holder - Lead - 20/Jul/13 with ben hester

peter.herd - 20/Jul/13 with Sinclair Cooper

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Jul/13

TRFrost - AltLd - 19/Jul/13 with N. Price

Didn't bother with the last pitch because it was getting late, and couldn't really find it.
zcsharp - AltLd - 05/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/13

Hidden - Jul/13

Kris - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/13

Ahab - AltLd - 17/Jun/13

Abbed off at last pitch due to snow. I lead all pitches bar one of the middle ones (pitch 5 I think). S crack was brilliant
thomaspomfrett - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Sam Thomas

AdamCB - Jun/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

just dead ace ...busy but
mux - AltLd O/S - 2013 with A Crook, frost

walts4 - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Oct/12

Utterly classic - more than lived up to its reputation for me. Great crack climbing on gorgeous golden granite in stunning surroundings. Extremely varied too, requiring most kinds of crack climbing/jamming technique over the course of its 200m. Had some route-finding issues near top, trying to choose most appropriate crack system. Eventually finished up the soaring 'Cretton.' (To locate this, traverse L across bottom of big R slanting gulley, which most parties seemed to take, but doesn't look worthy of rest of route.) I led Contamine start and Tim the S crack and finish, but in between we ran pitches together.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Tim

Wils - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Gareth clendinning

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Emily Ward

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/12

HarryB - AltLd - 24/Jul/12 with Al

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with steve

Jay C - AltLd - 17/Jul/12 with James M

Finished up 6b+ arÍte at v top
hilty - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with Adam coles

mcgovern - Lead - Jun/12 with K-Man

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/12

Snow on the first belay made things a bit interesting. intermittent steepness with some delicate slabs. S crack living up to it's name in all but difficulty
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Ben O C

As fun as it's hyped up to be!
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Dunx - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Steve Holmes

dan ely - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/11

al99 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke Thomas, Martina Zandonella

Fantastic route!
martinazando - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke Thomas, Al Benson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11

Drew M - AltLd - Aug/11 with Fred Lyon

beautiful clear day, first time on granite, alt finish to right to gain arete/ridge. brilliant day out.
Robin Brooke - 2nd - Aug/11 with Ode Silvonen

Pryan - 2nd - Aug/11 with Robin Brooke

Uisdean hawthorn - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Marco Plebani - 2nd β - 22/Jul/11

Very icy first pitch meant resorted to aid, onsighted the S-Crack but all the faff at the start meant we had to ab without finishing the route. Brilliant route though.
AlistairB - AltLd dnf - Jul/11 with Duncan Meacher

Only did the first 3 pitches, abbed off due to ice
d_meacher - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with AlistairB

Hidden - Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/11

Jack Loftus - AltLd - 25/Jun/11 with Pete Hill, Nick

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/11

wi11 - 2nd β - 29/May/11 with Dan gibson

lots of traffic at the start, took a direct start. snowy up high,took a harder direct finish up some splitter cracks, awesome.
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with will hardy

Hidden - 2011

Awsome day out, nice weather. Got a bit lost in the top. Left boots at the start, absailed down to them after. (a bit messy with the traversing)
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with astrange

Nice day in the sun! We did the route from the 8:30 lift to Midi. Left big boots and axes at the base of the climb. Abseiled back down and went back up to Midi and down to Cham.
astrange - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with alpinestar_no1

stevepotter - 04/Sep/10 with Matt

slav - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Ben Briggs - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with Luca

John Carney - 31/Aug/10 with Rob Jarvis

Pretty much ran up this stringing pitchs together with full sacks on, not really acclimatised at all making it very tiring. Weather came in on the last pitch proper, so were a bit lost so bailed off and abbed. Almost became epic. E1 maybe?
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Sam

some really good pitches. i felt like shite climbing it tho. was ill, with big pack, and unacclimatised. s-shaped crack was a really ace pitch!
samrad - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with smallerrich

Pete Graham - AltLd - Aug/10 with Howard Lawledge

tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall

johnmctighe - 2nd - 14/Jul/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10

A brilliant day and a beautiful route. A shame its not a full days walk away from the crowds.
AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10 with Ally Hurst, Stu Air

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Andy

tscoobydoo - AltLd - Jul/10 with phillip belcher

liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

clams - AltLd - Jun/10 with Litros

Tobias at Home - 2010

ig248 - AltLd - 2010 with Andrew Marshall

Hidden - 29/Aug/09

liz j - 2nd - Aug/09 with Matt Dickinson

petitflous05 - AltLd - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - Aug/09

Neil and Phil climbing as a pair ahead of us. Started on Contamine and then crossing under first roof to do the Rebuffat. I got the "S crack" and quaked my way up it - managed not to fall, despite worst disco leg ever as my protection fell out. Couldn't do last pitch as it was snowed up. Abbed as two 3's (an american team joined us).
Caspar - AltLd - 20/Jul/09 with James

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/09

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/Jul/09 with Quiet Ian

Done alpine style, i.e. not completely free, but with sacks on would have been tough to get it with no aid. Lost our way abit near top and got caught in some bad weather resulting in a night in the Cosmiques. Awesome day out in the mountains :)
markfairbank - AltLd - 02/Jul/09 with SteveyM

Climbed with full sack. Storm hit. Finished the route but rock shoes and wet grantie don't mix. Aided the S-crack and got a bit lost at the top.
SteveMyatt - AltLd - 02/Jul/09 with Mark Fairbank

HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley

Next day after climbing Frendo Spur
Bruveris - 2nd - Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/08 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - AltLd - 18/Jun/08 with Adam Booth

Hidden - 12/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

markv21 - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/07

tommytuffa - AltLd - Jul/07 with FChris Fisher

Quality route.
andyinglis - AltLd - Jun/06 with Neil Adams

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Will Barbour

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006

awhitta1 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05

w. Oli. All done free. I did S crack. Abbed off 6th pitch due ice.
stugreen75 - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Oli

Hidden - Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/02

Lots of pulling and standing on gear!
andy_pemberton - Lead - Aug/96 with Chris Richards

NickJH - AltLd dnf - Jul/96 with LiamG

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/92

AndrewP - AltLd - Aug/89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/88

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1984

Hidden - Oct/83

Hammy - Lead - 30/Aug/83 with Pete Smith

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/79

Hidden - AltLd - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
MSchobitz, Dino Dave, Timothy Miller, Hidden, gavinpeach, IanHope, Chris Ridgers, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jamie ward, Hidden, Ahab, Hidden, Ragingpossum, jezb1, pc1983, Hidden, ashtond6, Hidden, Hidden, daniel_c_baron, Hidden, davenev, har054, LJC, Hidden, Lawrie Brand, RKernan, Bradders, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, ian caton, KatieG, Ropeboy, Hidden, joese7en, Hidden, cayteye, vincentvega

Total votes cast 26
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Style of ascent

Lead14 of 135 (10.4%)
Followed15 of 135 (11.1%)
Alt Leads84 of 135 (62.2%)
Unknown22 of 135 (16.3%)

'Climbed'75 of 135 (55.6%)
clean O/S54 of 135 (40.0%)
clean β2 of 135 (1.5%)
dogged1 of 135 (0.7%)
dnf3 of 135 (2.2%)