250m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

hamishfrost 08/Sep 2nd

Started early from the Cosmiques Refuge. Route to ourselves. Just amazing

Rob Royle 07/Sep 2nd

Amazing climb!

with Seb (Mountain Guide)
Hidden 04/Sep -
kingjam 20/Aug 2nd

Guided by Danny Mountain spirit

Hidden 17/Aug Lead O/S
Robaduck 07/Aug 2nd
FlavioL1989 07/Aug Lead O/S

Took the first lift up and cramponed along the dodgy ice ridge. 7:30 at the bottom of the crag among crowds, did some accidental "ice climbing" in rock shoes, crowds disappeared later during the day. Lead all pitches including the 6a shortcut halfway and 6b finish. Thanks for Andy and Rob for carrying most of my gear.

Hidden 05/Aug Lead
Hidden 05/Aug 2nd O/S
hlegge 05/Aug AltLd O/S

Really cool route. very busy, quite a soft crux pitch, but a lot of the higher easy pitches had interesting hardish bits. french freed the final short slab

with Dom Pearce
alooker ?/Aug AltLd
Hidden 15/Jul AltLd rpt
aerobiee 11/Jul Lead O/S
Jenn_Stretton 11/Jul 2nd
rosieposey14 25/Jun -
with mark challoner
thom_jenkinson 24/Jun AltLd

Fantastic route. As others have said it is easy to get lost near the top!

Hidden 24/Jun AltLd O/S
Remyveness 18/Jun AltLd O/S

Great route, very busy, had to wait for 4 parties to climb before us. Got lost 4 pitches from the top, but found our way back on route. Highly recommended route on the midi

davkeo 17/Jun AltLd rpt

P3,4 plus top 2 and a bit pitches. 6b finish. Snow on 2nd last pitch. Packs on made climbing less enjoyable but was nice to finish on top.

with Ken Doyle, Niall Hedderman
Hidden 11/Jun AltLd
Hugh Simons 11/Jun AltLd dnf

Too many folk on the route so had to ab off from about 2/3 of the way up sadly. Very nice rock in an amazing setting!

Euan Todd 11/Jun AltLd dnf

Too many parties on the route, so had to abb off from about 2/3rds of the way up. Fantastic route though, would love to come back and get on it again!

with Adam
Hidden 24/May AltLd O/S
ndraper1 18/May -

Some pitches are harder than is let on, but still a great and social route! Rapped off below the final pitch due to a lot of snow still lingering around. Diagonal raps(some short) bring you back to below the variation start(which we did). https://nickdraperupslidedown.wordpress.com/

Hidden 18/May AltLd
Hidden 12/May Lead
Hidden 24/Apr Lead dnf
Ella7 ??/2015 AltLd O/S

Led p. 2, 3, 4, and then alternate to end, finished left the 6a way. Simply amazing route! Stunning views and really lovely climbing on beautiful granite rock. It just keeps on going! Took us 6 hours.

Remyveness ??/2015 AltLd
robgixer 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Alessandro Tentori 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Majestic route, opened in 1956!!! Technical moves and physical climbing blend perfectly. The exit pitch at 6b can be aided.

with Damien Tomasi
newtonmore 06/Sep/14 -
alexm198 ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 4. Took the arete variant at the top which quickly turned into a frenzy of french-freeing. Abbed the route due to maintenance work at the top. Be careful not to get your ropes stuck!

with Matt Harle, James Thompson
Timothy Miller 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
davkeo 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

What a fantastic route. First high rock route on the Midi side and one I won't forget. Did odd pitches. Finished cretton crack.

Misha 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Great route on perfect granite in the sun! Really pleased to do this as felt really crap from altitude when we got to the Cosmiques the night before after a half-hearted attempt on the Contamine on Pointe Lachenal and still didn't feel great in the morning - but walking past this fantastic monolith proved too much of a temptation to resist! Felt fine on the route - bonus! Nic led the P1 rightward slanting wide crack with a short steep section (HVS), which is the new start (the snowline in the Piola guide is 20-30m higher!). I did the bold traverse under the roof (pushing E1 5a). Best to keep moving to the end of the roof as there's a bolt belay there, i.e. skip the three bolt belay a few metres from the end of the roof as you can't see the next pitch from it. Nic did the S crack - great lead, pretty tricky (E1 5b). I did the slab (one 5a/b sequence, the rest easy but very enjoyable) and belayed half way up the groove above so as not to get in the way of another team. Nic did a long VS pitch up the groove/corner system to the top of what is P5 in the guide books. At this point I think we lost the line for a while. I did a steep offwidth section and moved right into a fantastic V Diff line leading to a chain belay on a bolt and two pegs. After this Nic took the obvious continuation line up a giant detached flake and crack above, which got steadily harder (HVS 5b) and ended in a bit of a cul de sac. I escaped leftwards from there and did a meandering pitch over large blocks and snow (fun!) to reach a bolt belay on an arête. Nic followed the easy arête and moved left round a pinnacle and up a crack to reach a ledge with a belay and a bolted line running up a short face, which we thought was the finish described in Batoux. Looking at it later from the bottom, pretty sure that's where we got to and the arête was the easy rampline in the topo - we just went off route for a couple of pitches below that, needed to be further left. We hadn't taken boots etc with us so needed to ab off and it was more convenient to do that from an ab point at the top of the arête. So eight pitches up and seven abs down, following the route in its middle section. A 60 metre ab off the belay at the start of the S crack got us to the snow - shame the boots were some way up and to the right, got cold feet! Started just after 11am and finished just before 7pm so too late for the last lift and had to spend another night at the Cosmiques, fortunately feeling a bit better this time. Blowy and snowy the following morning so broke track to the lift in poor vis.

with Nic
Hidden 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/14 -
Hidden 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
gavinpeach 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Great climb. Led pitches 2,4,6,8. I found pitches 6,8,9 to be the trickiest. Went off route on the last pitch though. Tricky abseils back to the ledge.

with Andy Finney
Hidden 01/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd
andy_e 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

French freed some moves! Awesome route.

with Mike Gallimore, Ben Phillips
ben.phillips 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

French free

MSchobitz 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

First on the route, moved fast enough not to be overtaken so had some quiet. Great climbing, probably the best rock route Ive ever done! Top is still a bit snowy... Lots of pegs as well as insitu gear on the route, but route finding at the top is still hard.

Calum Wadsworth 26/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing! Really enjoyed this. Route finding was tricky but only if you are first on the route like us.

with micki
simon_D 10/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

S-rack was nice although full of pegs and other bits and pieces! Nice granite, bit snowy!

with Edvin
McGuinness 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Fultonius 14/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Lazy start, 12am at the base of the route, topped out at 15:30 and skied home.

with Graham Mcgrath
Ginger McGrath 14/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

didnt get out my bed till 10am, climbed in T-shirts, then skied home. it dosn't get much better

with fulton
Hidden 12/Mar/14 AltLd
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
HansStuttgart ?/Sep/13 -

Very good climbing on pitch 2.

Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Brannock 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, very nice climbing, got a bit lost lost at the end, wound up on 6B+ aerete at the very top of the pillar.

MPSBunny 23/Aug/13 2nd dog

This was hard! Filmed two Irish guys being rescued by helicopter after one of them sprained an ankle curtesy of a lead fall. Finished off in the company of an older mountain guide (who owned some badass nuts :p) Had to aid up some bolts at the end as we went off route at the top. Abseiled onto the Midi Station to be greeted by Robby with a can of super strength beer; shame about stacking it at the bottom of the abseil with the tourists watching!

Dan0Me 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Chris Hill
tuukka 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Maija
A Crook 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Truly amazing route. long and sustained at the grade. Did a F6a Contamine start pitch under the roof rather than original start. As usual a very busy day on route but luckily we were first. The S crack is a wonderful pitch on solid beautiful granite. My hands were wrecked afterward.

frost 15/Aug/13 AltLd
with Adam, D Garry
Theeni 10/Aug/13 2nd

Up on the first lift, brew and then started. Done by 1330, climbing as a three. Thomas took a whipper on the 3rd pitch which mashed my hands holding it, dampened my enthusiasm to take the lead after that.

Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd
mcgovern ?/Aug/13 AltLd
TommyMcG ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Peter Holder 20/Jul/13 Lead
with ben hester
peter.herd 20/Jul/13 -
with Sinclair Cooper
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd dnf
TRFrost 19/Jul/13 AltLd
np134 19/Jul/13 AltLd
zcsharp 05/Jul/13 AltLd

Didn't bother with the last pitch because it was getting late, and couldn't really find it.

steve_gibbs 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Kris ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd
Ahab 17/Jun/13 AltLd
thomaspomfrett 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Abbed off at last pitch due to snow. I lead all pitches bar one of the middle ones (pitch 5 I think). S crack was brilliant

with Sam Thomas
AdamCB ?/Jun/13 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
mux ??/2013 AltLd O/S

just dead ace ...busy but

walts4 ??/2013 -
Hidden 05/Oct/12 AltLd
Andy Clarke 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Utterly classic - more than lived up to its reputation for me. Great crack climbing on gorgeous golden granite in stunning surroundings. Extremely varied too, requiring most kinds of crack climbing/jamming technique over the course of its 200m. Had some route-finding issues near top, trying to choose most appropriate crack system. Eventually finished up the soaring 'Cretton.' (To locate this, traverse L across bottom of big R slanting gulley, which most parties seemed to take, but doesn't look worthy of rest of route.) I led Contamine start and Tim the S crack and finish, but in between we ran pitches together.

with Tim
Wils 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Sam Simpson 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 08/Aug/12 AltLd
HarryB 24/Jul/12 AltLd
with Al
dan ely 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with steve
Jay C 17/Jul/12 AltLd
with James M
ray.allwood 17/Jul/12 2nd O/S

With Mark Cordingley

with Andy Perkins (Guide)
hilty ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Finished up 6b+ arête at v top

mcgovern ?/Jun/12 Lead
with K-Man
Hidden ?/Jun/12 2nd
danimal88 12/May/12 AltLd O/S

Snow on the first belay made things a bit interesting. intermittent steepness with some delicate slabs. S crack living up to it's name in all but difficulty

with Ben O C
Alexandre Buisse 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

As fun as it's hyped up to be!

Dunx 27/Mar/12 AltLd
with Steve Holmes
dan ely ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/11 AltLd
al99 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Luke Thomas, Martina Zandonella
martinazando 22/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Fantastic route!

with Luke Thomas, Al Benson
Hidden 01/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Drew M ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Robin Brooke ?/Aug/11 2nd

beautiful clear day, first time on granite, alt finish to right to gain arete/ridge. brilliant day out.

with Ode Silvonen
Pryan ?/Aug/11 2nd
with Robin Brooke
Uisdean hawthorn ?/Aug/11 -
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Marco Plebani 22/Jul/11 2nd β
AlistairB ?/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

Very icy first pitch meant resorted to aid, onsighted the S-Crack but all the faff at the start meant we had to ab without finishing the route. Brilliant route though.

with Duncan Meacher
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Only did the first 3 pitches, abbed off due to ice

Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
Petarghh 25/Jun/11 2nd

Awesome route, Lead by Nick and Jack for speed and to reduce faff on route, Want to get back and lead some of the pitches though, they were all amazing !

Jack Loftus 25/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 30/May/11 AltLd
wi11 29/May/11 2nd β
dan gibson 29/May/11 Lead O/S

lots of traffic at the start, took a direct start. snowy up high,took a harder direct finish up some splitter cracks, awesome.

with will hardy
Hidden ??/2011 -
alpinestar_no1 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Awsome day out, nice weather. Got a bit lost in the top. Left boots at the start, absailed down to them after. (a bit messy with the traversing)

astrange 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Nice day in the sun! We did the route from the 8:30 lift to Midi. Left big boots and axes at the base of the climb. Abseiled back down and went back up to Midi and down to Cham.

stevepotter 04/Sep/10 -
with Matt
slav ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ben Briggs ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Luca
John Carney 31/Aug/10 -
with Rob Jarvis
smallerrich 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pretty much ran up this stringing pitchs together with full sacks on, not really acclimatised at all making it very tiring. Weather came in on the last pitch proper, so were a bit lost so bailed off and abbed. Almost became epic. E1 maybe?

with Sam
samrad 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

some really good pitches. i felt like shite climbing it tho. was ill, with big pack, and unacclimatised. s-shaped crack was a really ace pitch!

Pete Graham ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Howard Lawledge
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/10 -
with andrew marshall
johnmctighe 14/Jul/10 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 14/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
AMarchant 14/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

A brilliant day and a beautiful route. A shame its not a full days walk away from the crowds.

with Ally Hurst, Stu Air
Sophie Nunn 07/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andy
tscoobydoo ?/Jul/10 AltLd
with phillip belcher
liamo333 ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
clams ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Litros
Tobias at Home ??/2010 -
ig248 ??/2010 AltLd
with Andrew Marshall
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Hidden 29/Aug/09 -
liz j ?/Aug/09 2nd
with Matt Dickinson
petitflous05 ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd
MoWalker3 07/Jul/09 AltLd
with Quiet Ian
markfairbank 02/Jul/09 AltLd

Done alpine style, i.e. not completely free, but with sacks on would have been tough to get it with no aid. Lost our way abit near top and got caught in some bad weather resulting in a night in the Cosmiques. Awesome day out in the mountains :)

with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 02/Jul/09 AltLd

Climbed with full sack. Storm hit. Finished the route but rock shoes and wet grantie don't mix. Aided the S-crack and got a bit lost at the top.

with Mark Fairbank
HamishD ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley
Bruveris ?/Jul/09 2nd

Next day after climbing Frendo Spur

Hidden 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 18/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 18/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 12/Jun/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
markv21 24/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 AltLd
tommytuffa ?/Jul/07 AltLd
with FChris Fisher
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
andyinglis ?/Jun/06 AltLd

Quality route.

dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Will Barbour
zero six ??/2006 AltLd O/S
awhitta1 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
stugreen75 ??/2004 AltLd O/S

w. Oli. All done free. I did S crack. Abbed off 6th pitch due ice.

with Oli
Hidden ?/Aug/03 -
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd
prcleary ??/2000 Lead
andy_pemberton ?/Aug/96 Lead

Lots of pulling and standing on gear!

with Chris Richards
NickJH ?/Jul/96 AltLd dnf
with LiamG
NickJH ?/Jul/96 Lead dnf
with LiamG
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/92 Lead O/S
AndrewP ?/Aug/89 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
Lone Rider ??/1984 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/83 -
Hammy 30/Aug/83 Lead
with Pete Smith
Hidden ?/Aug/79 AltLd
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
Hidden ??/1974 AltLd
uphillnow ?/Jul/73 -

livesey ovetook us just above half height soloing

with John Swift, Steve Foster
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Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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