Rébuffat*** TD
[Bill low down on the Rebuffat, Eperon des Cosmiques, 3 kb]250m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Photo: Bill low down on the Rebuffat, Eperon des Cosmiques © Tom Last
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This climb is in 188 logbooks, and on 58 wishlists.

Started early from the Cosmiques Refuge. Route to ourselves. Just amazing
hamishfrost - 2nd - 08/Sep/15

Amazing climb!
Rob Royle - 2nd - 07/Sep/15 with Seb (Mountain Guide)

Hidden - 04/Sep/15

Guided by Danny Mountain spirit
kingjam - 2nd - 20/Aug/15 with Matt Naylor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/15

Robaduck - 2nd - 07/Aug/15

Took the first lift up and cramponed along the dodgy ice ridge. 7:30 at the bottom of the crag among crowds, did some accidental "ice climbing" in rock shoes, crowds disappeared later during the day. Lead all pitches including the 6a shortcut halfway and 6b finish. Thanks for Andy and Rob for carrying most of my gear.
FlavioL1989 - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/15 with Rob Kempster, Andy Erskine

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/15

Really cool route. very busy, quite a soft crux pitch, but a lot of the higher easy pitches had interesting hardish bits. french freed the final short slab
hlegge - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/15 with Dom Pearce

alooker - AltLd - Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Jul/15

aerobiee - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/15 with Jen Stretton

Jenn_Stretton - 2nd - 11/Jul/15 with David Thexton

rosieposey14 - 25/Jun/15 with mark challoner

Fantastic route. As others have said it is easy to get lost near the top!
thom_jenkinson - AltLd - 24/Jun/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/15

Great route, very busy, had to wait for 4 parties to climb before us. Got lost 4 pitches from the top, but found our way back on route. Highly recommended route on the midi
Remyveness - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/15 with Ellie Fuller

P3,4 plus top 2 and a bit pitches. 6b finish. Snow on 2nd last pitch. Packs on made climbing less enjoyable but was nice to finish on top.
davkeo - AltLd rpt - 17/Jun/15 with Ken Doyle, Niall Hedderman

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/15

Too many folk on the route so had to ab off from about 2/3 of the way up sadly. Very nice rock in an amazing setting!
Hugh Simons - AltLd dnf - 11/Jun/15 with Alistair Lee

Too many parties on the route, so had to abb off from about 2/3rds of the way up. Fantastic route though, would love to come back and get on it again!
Euan Todd - AltLd dnf - 11/Jun/15 with Adam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/15

Some pitches are harder than is let on, but still a great and social route! Rapped off below the final pitch due to a lot of snow still lingering around. Diagonal raps(some short) bring you back to below the variation start(which we did). https://nickdraperupslidedown.wordpress.com/
ndraper1 - 18/May/15

Hidden - AltLd - 18/May/15

Hidden - Lead - 12/May/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Apr/15

Led p. 2, 3, 4, and then alternate to end, finished left the 6a way. Simply amazing route! Stunning views and really lovely climbing on beautiful granite rock. It just keeps on going! Took us 6 hours.
Ella7 - AltLd O/S - 2015 with Remy Veness

robgixer - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/14

Majestic route, opened in 1956!!! Technical moves and physical climbing blend perfectly. The exit pitch at 6b can be aided.
Alessandro Tentori - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with Damien Tomasi

newtonmore - 06/Sep/14

Led pitch 4. Took the arete variant at the top which quickly turned into a frenzy of french-freeing. Abbed the route due to maintenance work at the top. Be careful not to get your ropes stuck!
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - Sep/14 with Matt Harle, James Thompson

Timothy Miller - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/14 with dave keogh

What a fantastic route. First high rock route on the Midi side and one I won't forget. Did odd pitches. Finished cretton crack.
davkeo - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/14 with Tim Miller

Great route on perfect granite in the sun! Really pleased to do this as felt really crap from altitude when we got to the Cosmiques the night before after a half-hearted attempt on the Contamine on Pointe Lachenal and still didn't feel great in the morning - but walking past this fantastic monolith proved too much of a temptation to resist! Felt fine on the route - bonus! Nic led the P1 rightward slanting wide crack with a short steep section (HVS), which is the new start (the snowline in the Piola guide is 20-30m higher!). I did the bold traverse under the roof (pushing E1 5a). Best to keep moving to the end of the roof as there's a bolt belay there, i.e. skip the three bolt belay a few metres from the end of the roof as you can't see the next pitch from it. Nic did the S crack - great lead, pretty tricky (E1 5b). I did the slab (one 5a/b sequence, the rest easy but very enjoyable) and belayed half way up the groove above so as not to get in the way of another team. Nic did a long VS pitch up the groove/corner system to the top of what is P5 in the guide books. At this point I think we lost the line for a while. I did a steep offwidth section and moved right into a fantastic V Diff line leading to a chain belay on a bolt and two pegs. After this Nic took the obvious continuation line up a giant detached flake and crack above, which got steadily harder (HVS 5b) and ended in a bit of a cul de sac. I escaped leftwards from there and did a meandering pitch over large blocks and snow (fun!) to reach a bolt belay on an arête. Nic followed the easy arête and moved left round a pinnacle and up a crack to reach a ledge with a belay and a bolted line running up a short face, which we thought was the finish described in Batoux. Looking at it later from the bottom, pretty sure that's where we got to and the arête was the easy rampline in the topo - we just went off route for a couple of pitches below that, needed to be further left. We hadn't taken boots etc with us so needed to ab off and it was more convenient to do that from an ab point at the top of the arête. So eight pitches up and seven abs down, following the route in its middle section. A 60 metre ab off the belay at the start of the S crack got us to the snow - shame the boots were some way up and to the right, got cold feet! Started just after 11am and finished just before 7pm so too late for the last lift and had to spend another night at the Cosmiques, fortunately feeling a bit better this time. Blowy and snowy the following morning so broke track to the lift in poor vis.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Nic

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14

Hidden - 09/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14

Great climb. Led pitches 2,4,6,8. I found pitches 6,8,9 to be the trickiest. Went off route on the last pitch though. Tricky abseils back to the ledge.
gavinpeach - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/14 with Andy Finney

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/14

French freed some moves! Awesome route.
andy_e - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Mike Gallimore, Ben Phillips

French free
ben.phillips - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Mike Gallimore, Andrew Erskine

First on the route, moved fast enough not to be overtaken so had some quiet. Great climbing, probably the best rock route Ive ever done! Top is still a bit snowy... Lots of pegs as well as insitu gear on the route, but route finding at the top is still hard.
MSchobitz - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Calum Wadsworth

Absolutely amazing! Really enjoyed this. Route finding was tricky but only if you are first on the route like us.
Calum Wadsworth - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with micki

S-rack was nice although full of pegs and other bits and pieces! Nice granite, bit snowy!
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14 with Edvin

McGuinness - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Mike

Lazy start, 12am at the base of the route, topped out at 15:30 and skied home.
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with Graham Mcgrath

didnt get out my bed till 10am, climbed in T-shirts, then skied home. it dosn't get much better
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with fulton

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Mar/14

jcw - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Very good climbing on pitch 2.
HansStuttgart - Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/13

Lead all pitches, very nice climbing, got a bit lost lost at the end, wound up on 6B+ aerete at the very top of the pillar.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13

This was hard! Filmed two Irish guys being rescued by helicopter after one of them sprained an ankle curtesy of a lead fall. Finished off in the company of an older mountain guide (who owned some badass nuts :p) Had to aid up some bolts at the end as we went off route at the top. Abseiled onto the Midi Station to be greeted by Robby with a can of super strength beer; shame about stacking it at the bottom of the abseil with the tourists watching!
MPSBunny - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/13 with John Brannock

Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Chris Hill

tuukka - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/13 with Maija

Truly amazing route. long and sustained at the grade. Did a F6a Contamine start pitch under the roof rather than original start. As usual a very busy day on route but luckily we were first. The S crack is a wonderful pitch on solid beautiful granite. My hands were wrecked afterward.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Simon Frost, Dave Garry

frost - AltLd - 15/Aug/13 with Adam, D Garry

Up on the first lift, brew and then started. Done by 1330, climbing as a three. Thomas took a whipper on the 3rd pitch which mashed my hands holding it, dampened my enthusiasm to take the lead after that.
Theeni - 2nd - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/13

mcgovern - AltLd - Aug/13 with TommyMcG

TommyMcG - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Conor McGovern

Peter Holder - Lead - 20/Jul/13 with ben hester

peter.herd - 20/Jul/13 with Sinclair Cooper

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Jul/13

TRFrost - AltLd - 19/Jul/13 with N. Price

Didn't bother with the last pitch because it was getting late, and couldn't really find it.
zcsharp - AltLd - 05/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Jamie Roberts

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/13

Hidden - Jul/13

Kris - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/13

Ahab - AltLd - 17/Jun/13

Abbed off at last pitch due to snow. I lead all pitches bar one of the middle ones (pitch 5 I think). S crack was brilliant
thomaspomfrett - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Sam Thomas

AdamCB - Jun/13

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

just dead ace ...busy but
mux - AltLd O/S - 2013 with A Crook, frost

walts4 - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Oct/12

Utterly classic - more than lived up to its reputation for me. Great crack climbing on gorgeous golden granite in stunning surroundings. Extremely varied too, requiring most kinds of crack climbing/jamming technique over the course of its 200m. Had some route-finding issues near top, trying to choose most appropriate crack system. Eventually finished up the soaring 'Cretton.' (To locate this, traverse L across bottom of big R slanting gulley, which most parties seemed to take, but doesn't look worthy of rest of route.) I led Contamine start and Tim the S crack and finish, but in between we ran pitches together.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Tim

Wils - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Gareth clendinning

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12

Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Emily Ward

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/12

HarryB - AltLd - 24/Jul/12 with Al

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with steve

Jay C - AltLd - 17/Jul/12 with James M

With Mark Cordingley
ray.allwood - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/12 with Andy Perkins (Guide)

Finished up 6b+ arête at v top
hilty - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with Adam coles

mcgovern - Lead - Jun/12 with K-Man

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/12

Snow on the first belay made things a bit interesting. intermittent steepness with some delicate slabs. S crack living up to it's name in all but difficulty
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Ben O C

As fun as it's hyped up to be!
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12

Dunx - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Steve Holmes

dan ely - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/11

al99 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke Thomas, Martina Zandonella

Fantastic route!
martinazando - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke Thomas, Al Benson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11

Drew M - AltLd - Aug/11 with Fred Lyon

beautiful clear day, first time on granite, alt finish to right to gain arete/ridge. brilliant day out.
Robin Brooke - 2nd - Aug/11 with Ode Silvonen

Pryan - 2nd - Aug/11 with Robin Brooke

Uisdean hawthorn - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11

Marco Plebani - 2nd β - 22/Jul/11

Very icy first pitch meant resorted to aid, onsighted the S-Crack but all the faff at the start meant we had to ab without finishing the route. Brilliant route though.
AlistairB - AltLd dnf - Jul/11 with Duncan Meacher

Only did the first 3 pitches, abbed off due to ice
d_meacher - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with AlistairB

Hidden - Jul/11

Awesome route, Lead by Nick and Jack for speed and to reduce faff on route, Want to get back and lead some of the pitches though, they were all amazing !
Petarghh - 2nd - 25/Jun/11 with cavemanjack, NickoClimb

Jack Loftus - AltLd - 25/Jun/11 with Pete Hill, Nick

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/11

wi11 - 2nd β - 29/May/11 with Dan gibson

lots of traffic at the start, took a direct start. snowy up high,took a harder direct finish up some splitter cracks, awesome.
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with will hardy

Hidden - 2011

Awsome day out, nice weather. Got a bit lost in the top. Left boots at the start, absailed down to them after. (a bit messy with the traversing)
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with astrange

Nice day in the sun! We did the route from the 8:30 lift to Midi. Left big boots and axes at the base of the climb. Abseiled back down and went back up to Midi and down to Cham.
astrange - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with alpinestar_no1

stevepotter - 04/Sep/10 with Matt

slav - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Ben Briggs - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with Luca

John Carney - 31/Aug/10 with Rob Jarvis

Pretty much ran up this stringing pitchs together with full sacks on, not really acclimatised at all making it very tiring. Weather came in on the last pitch proper, so were a bit lost so bailed off and abbed. Almost became epic. E1 maybe?
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Sam

some really good pitches. i felt like shite climbing it tho. was ill, with big pack, and unacclimatised. s-shaped crack was a really ace pitch!
samrad - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with smallerrich

Pete Graham - AltLd - Aug/10 with Howard Lawledge

tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall

johnmctighe - 2nd - 14/Jul/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10

A brilliant day and a beautiful route. A shame its not a full days walk away from the crowds.
AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10 with Ally Hurst, Stu Air

Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Andy

tscoobydoo - AltLd - Jul/10 with phillip belcher

liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

clams - AltLd - Jun/10 with Litros

Tobias at Home - 2010

ig248 - AltLd - 2010 with Andrew Marshall

Guy Wilson - 2010

Hidden - 29/Aug/09

liz j - 2nd - Aug/09 with Matt Dickinson

petitflous05 - AltLd - Aug/09

Hidden - Lead - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/09

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/09

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/Jul/09 with Quiet Ian

Done alpine style, i.e. not completely free, but with sacks on would have been tough to get it with no aid. Lost our way abit near top and got caught in some bad weather resulting in a night in the Cosmiques. Awesome day out in the mountains :)
markfairbank - AltLd - 02/Jul/09 with SteveyM

Climbed with full sack. Storm hit. Finished the route but rock shoes and wet grantie don't mix. Aided the S-crack and got a bit lost at the top.
SteveMyatt - AltLd - 02/Jul/09 with Mark Fairbank

HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley

Next day after climbing Frendo Spur
Bruveris - 2nd - Jul/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/08 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - AltLd - 18/Jun/08 with Adam Booth

Hidden - 12/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008

markv21 - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/07

tommytuffa - AltLd - Jul/07 with FChris Fisher

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/07

Quality route.
andyinglis - AltLd - Jun/06 with Neil Adams

dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Will Barbour

zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006

awhitta1 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05

w. Oli. All done free. I did S crack. Abbed off 6th pitch due ice.
stugreen75 - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Oli

Hidden - Aug/03

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/02

prcleary - Lead - 2000

Lots of pulling and standing on gear!
andy_pemberton - Lead - Aug/96 with Chris Richards

NickJH - AltLd dnf - Jul/96 with LiamG

NickJH - Lead dnf - Jul/96 with LiamG

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/92

AndrewP - AltLd - Aug/89

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/88

Lone Rider - AltLd - 1984

Hidden - Oct/83

Hammy - Lead - 30/Aug/83 with Pete Smith

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/79

Steve Bell - 1977

Hidden - AltLd - 1974

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hugh Simons, Euan Todd, bik, adamre12, edhawk21, charlielow, callumbtaylor, Remyveness, Ella7, langar27, flett53, thom_jenkinson, Retro Rowan, erbridger, Tim Harper, benclimbing, Dino Dave, IanHope, Chris Ridgers, Ahab, Ragingpossum, jezb1, pc1983, ashtond6, daniel_c_baron, davenev, har054, LJC, Lawrie Brand, RKernan, Bradders, ian caton, KatieG, Ropeboy, joese7en, cayteye, vincentvega

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