Great route on perfect granite in the sun! Really pleased to do this as felt really crap from altitude when we got to the Cosmiques the night before after a half-hearted attempt on the Contamine on Pointe Lachenal and still didn't feel great in the morning - but walking past this fantastic monolith proved too much of a temptation to resist! Felt fine on the route - bonus! Nic led the P1 rightward slanting wide crack with a short steep section (HVS), which is the new start (the snowline in the Piola guide is 20-30m higher!). I did the bold traverse under the roof (pushing E1 5a). Best to keep moving to the end of the roof as there's a bolt belay there, i.e. skip the three bolt belay a few metres from the end of the roof as you can't see the next pitch from it. Nic did the S crack - great lead, pretty tricky (E1 5b). I did the slab (one 5a/b sequence, the rest easy but very enjoyable) and belayed half way up the groove above so as not to get in the way of another team. Nic did a long VS pitch up the groove/corner system to the top of what is P5 in the guide books. At this point I think we lost the line for a while. I did a steep offwidth section and moved right into a fantastic V Diff line leading to a chain belay on a bolt and two pegs. After this Nic took the obvious continuation line up a giant detached flake and crack above, which got steadily harder (HVS 5b) and ended in a bit of a cul de sac. I escaped leftwards from there and did a meandering pitch over large blocks and snow (fun!) to reach a bolt belay on an arÍte. Nic followed the easy arÍte and moved left round a pinnacle and up a crack to reach a ledge with a belay and a bolted line running up a short face, which we thought was the finish described in Batoux. Looking at it later from the bottom, pretty sure that's where we got to and the arÍte was the easy rampline in the topo - we just went off route for a couple of pitches below that, needed to be further left. We hadn't taken boots etc with us so needed to ab off and it was more convenient to do that from an ab point at the top of the arÍte. So eight pitches up and seven abs down, following the route in its middle section. A 60 metre ab off the belay at the start of the S crack got us to the snow - shame the boots were some way up and to the right, got cold feet! Started just after 11am and finished just before 7pm so too late for the last lift and had to spend another night at the Cosmiques, fortunately feeling a bit better this time. Blowy and snowy the following morning so broke track to the lift in poor vis.Misha - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/14 with Nic
Hidden - 09/Aug/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/14
Great climb. Led pitches 2,4,6,8. I found pitches 6,8,9 to be the trickiest. Went off route on the last pitch though. Tricky abseils back to the ledge.
gavinpeach - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/14 with Andy Finney
Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/14
French freed some moves! Awesome route.
andy_e - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Mike Gallimore, Ben Phillips
First on the route, moved fast enough not to be overtaken so had some quiet. Great climbing, probably the best rock route Ive ever done! Top is still a bit snowy... Lots of pegs as well as insitu gear on the route, but route finding at the top is still hard.
MSchobitz - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Calum
Absolutely amazing! Really enjoyed this. Route finding was tricky but only if you are first on the route like us.
Calum Wadsworth - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/14 with micki
S-rack was nice although full of pegs and other bits and pieces! Nice granite, bit snowy!
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/14 with Edvin
McGuinness - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/14 with Mike
Lazy start, 12am at the base of the route, topped out at 15:30 and skied home.
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with Graham Mcgrath
didnt get out my bed till 10am, climbed in T-shirts, then skied home. it dosn't get much better
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with fulton
Hidden - AltLd - 12/Mar/14
jcw - 2014
Hidden - 2014
Very good climbing on pitch 2.
HansStuttgart - Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/13
Lead all pitches, very nice climbing, got a bit lost lost at the end, wound up on 6B+ aerete at the very top of the pillar.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13
This was hard! Filmed two Irish guys being rescued by helicopter after one of them sprained an ankle curtesy of a lead fall. Finished off in the company of an older mountain guide (who owned some badass nuts :p) Had to aid up some bolts at the end as we went off route at the top.
Abseiled onto the Midi Station to be greeted by Robby with a can of super strength beer; shame about stacking it at the bottom of the abseil with the tourists watching!
MPSBunny - 2nd dog - 23/Aug/13 with John Brannock
Dan0Me - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Chris Hill
tuukka - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/13 with Maija
Truly amazing route. long and sustained at the grade. Did a F6a Contamine start pitch under the roof rather than original start. As usual a very busy day on route but luckily we were first. The S crack is a wonderful pitch on solid beautiful granite. My hands were wrecked afterward.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/13 with Simon Frost, Dave Garry
frost - AltLd - 15/Aug/13 with Adam, D Garry
Up on the first lift, brew and then started. Done by 1330, climbing as a three. Thomas took a whipper on the 3rd pitch which mashed my hands holding it, dampened my enthusiasm to take the lead after that.
Theeni - 2nd - 10/Aug/13
Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/13
mcgovern - AltLd - Aug/13 with TommyMcG
TommyMcG - Lead O/S - Aug/13 with Conor McGovern
Peter Holder - Lead - 20/Jul/13 with ben hester
peter.herd - 20/Jul/13 with Sinclair Cooper
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Jul/13
TRFrost - AltLd - 19/Jul/13 with N. Price
Didn't bother with the last pitch because it was getting late, and couldn't really find it.
zcsharp - AltLd - 05/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/13
Hidden - Jul/13
Kris - AltLd - Jul/13
Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/13
Ahab - AltLd - 17/Jun/13
Abbed off at last pitch due to snow. I lead all pitches bar one of the middle ones (pitch 5 I think). S crack was brilliant
thomaspomfrett - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Sam Thomas
AdamCB - Jun/13
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2013
just dead ace ...busy but
mux - AltLd O/S - 2013 with A Crook, frost
walts4 - 2013
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Oct/12
Utterly classic - more than lived up to its reputation for me. Great crack climbing on gorgeous golden granite in stunning surroundings. Extremely varied too, requiring most kinds of crack climbing/jamming technique over the course of its 200m. Had some route-finding issues near top, trying to choose most appropriate crack system. Eventually finished up the soaring 'Cretton.' (To locate this, traverse L across bottom of big R slanting gulley, which most parties seemed to take, but doesn't look worthy of rest of route.) I led Contamine start and Tim the S crack and finish, but in between we ran pitches together.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with Tim
Wils - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/12 with Gareth clendinning
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12
Sam Simpson - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Emily Ward
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/12
Hidden - AltLd - 08/Aug/12
HarryB - AltLd - 24/Jul/12 with Al
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with steve
Jay C - AltLd - 17/Jul/12 with James M
Finished up 6b+ arÍte at v top
hilty - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with Adam coles
mcgovern - Lead - Jun/12 with K-Man
Hidden - 2nd - Jun/12
Snow on the first belay made things a bit interesting. intermittent steepness with some delicate slabs. S crack living up to it's name in all but difficulty
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Ben O C
As fun as it's hyped up to be!
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/12
Dunx - AltLd - 27/Mar/12 with Steve Holmes
dan ely - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/11
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/11
al99 - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke Thomas, Martina Zandonella
martinazando - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/11 with Luke Thomas, Al Benson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/11
Drew M - AltLd - Aug/11 with Fred Lyon
beautiful clear day, first time on granite, alt finish to right to gain arete/ridge. brilliant day out.
Robin Brooke - 2nd - Aug/11 with Ode Silvonen
Pryan - 2nd - Aug/11 with Robin Brooke
Uisdean hawthorn - Aug/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11
Marco Plebani - 2nd β - 22/Jul/11
Very icy first pitch meant resorted to aid, onsighted the S-Crack but all the faff at the start meant we had to ab without finishing the route. Brilliant route though.
AlistairB - AltLd dnf - Jul/11 with Duncan Meacher
Only did the first 3 pitches, abbed off due to ice
d_meacher - AltLd O/S - Jul/11 with AlistairB
Hidden - Jul/11
Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jun/11
Jack Loftus - AltLd - 25/Jun/11 with Pete Hill, Nick
Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jun/11
Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/11
wi11 - 2nd β - 29/May/11 with Dan gibson
lots of traffic at the start, took a direct start.
snowy up high,took a harder direct finish up some splitter cracks, awesome.
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with will hardy
Hidden - 2011
Awsome day out, nice weather. Got a bit lost in the top. Left boots at the start, absailed down to them after. (a bit messy with the traversing)
alpinestar_no1 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with astrange
Nice day in the sun! We did the route from the 8:30 lift to Midi. Left big boots and axes at the base of the climb. Abseiled back down and went back up to Midi and down to Cham.
astrange - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with alpinestar_no1
stevepotter - 04/Sep/10 with Matt
slav - Lead O/S - Sep/10
Ben Briggs - AltLd O/S - Sep/10 with Luca
John Carney - 31/Aug/10 with Rob Jarvis
Pretty much ran up this stringing pitchs together with full sacks on, not really acclimatised at all making it very tiring. Weather came in on the last pitch proper, so were a bit lost so bailed off and abbed. Almost became epic. E1 maybe?
smallerrich - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with Sam
some really good pitches. i felt like shite climbing it tho. was ill, with big pack, and unacclimatised. s-shaped crack was a really ace pitch!
samrad - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/10 with smallerrich
Pete Graham - AltLd - Aug/10 with Howard Lawledge
tumbling wizard - Aug/10 with andrew marshall
johnmctighe - 2nd - 14/Jul/10 with Andy
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10
A brilliant day and a beautiful route. A shame its not a full days walk away from the crowds.
AMarchant - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/10 with Ally Hurst, Stu Air
Sophie Nunn - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/10 with Andy
tscoobydoo - AltLd - Jul/10 with phillip belcher
liamo333 - AltLd O/S - Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10
clams - AltLd - Jun/10 with Litros
Tobias at Home - 2010
ig248 - AltLd - 2010 with Andrew Marshall
Hidden - 29/Aug/09
liz j - 2nd - Aug/09 with Matt Dickinson
petitflous05 - AltLd - Aug/09
Hidden - Lead - Aug/09
Neil and Phil climbing as a pair ahead of us. Started on Contamine and then crossing under first roof to do the Rebuffat. I got the "S crack" and quaked my way up it - managed not to fall, despite worst disco leg ever as my protection fell out. Couldn't do last pitch as it was snowed up. Abbed as two 3's (an american team joined us).
Caspar - AltLd - 20/Jul/09 with James
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jul/09
MoWalker3 - AltLd - 07/Jul/09 with Quiet Ian
Done alpine style, i.e. not completely free, but with sacks on would have been tough to get it with no aid. Lost our way abit near top and got caught in some bad weather resulting in a night in the Cosmiques. Awesome day out in the mountains :)
markfairbank - AltLd - 02/Jul/09 with SteveyM
Climbed with full sack. Storm hit. Finished the route but rock shoes and wet grantie don't mix. Aided the S-crack and got a bit lost at the top.
SteveMyatt - AltLd - 02/Jul/09 with Mark Fairbank
HamishD - AltLd O/S - Jul/09 with Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley
Next day after climbing Frendo Spur
Bruveris - 2nd - Jul/09
Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/08 with Ed Booth
Ed Booth - AltLd - 18/Jun/08 with Adam Booth
Hidden - 12/Jun/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2008
markv21 - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/07
Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/07
tommytuffa - AltLd - Jul/07 with FChris Fisher
andyinglis - AltLd - Jun/06 with Neil Adams
dannyboy83 - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Will Barbour
zero six - AltLd O/S - 2006
awhitta1 - AltLd O/S - Jul/05
w. Oli. All done free. I did S crack. Abbed off 6th pitch due ice.
stugreen75 - AltLd O/S - 2004 with Oli
Hidden - Aug/03
Hidden - 2nd - Aug/02
Lots of pulling and standing on gear!
andy_pemberton - Lead - Aug/96 with Chris Richards
NickJH - AltLd dnf - Jul/96 with LiamG
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/92
AndrewP - AltLd - Aug/89
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/88
Lone Rider - AltLd - 1984
Hidden - Oct/83
Hammy - Lead - 30/Aug/83 with Pete Smith
Hidden - AltLd - Aug/79
Hidden - AltLd - 1974