Rockfax Description
6b, S1. Memorable. A fine climb in a very atmospheric position. Start by traversing in along the break to a niche just before the cave. Continue up past another corner and across slabs until stopped by a wall. Go round the rib and bridge out and up the chimney. Keep bridging, then pull out left and up to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe 7.9.69. FFA. Frank Farrell 9.79. First soloed by Nick Buckley 26.6.83 07/Sep/1969

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Hard water, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender.

burto 30/Aug DWS O/S
with ferdia, hertha
NDD 29/Aug DWS
with Team
James Oakes 29/Aug DWS O/S
Hidden 29/Aug DWS rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Aug DWS rpt
Hidden 29/Aug DWS O/S
GuyVG 29/Aug DWS dnf

fell in this year, very funny

Gus 29/Aug DWS
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug DWS dnf

Got past the crux and ran out of chalk and strength!

Ram MkiV 29/Aug DWS rpt
dswansonlow 29/Aug DWS RP
HaleAlex 11/Aug DWS β

Amazing, almost fell at the second Chimney but then found the jugs and managed to bridge

Hidden 07/Aug Solo
will black 23/Jul DWS rpt

took two goes to get round the techy corner, really fun route certainly deserves 3 stars!

DorsetGareth 04/Jul DWS RP

Tried this about a decade ago. Slipped off on the wet holds first try today, then sent it second go. Brilliant.

Caspian Johnson 04/Jul DWS β

One of my all time favourite climbing experiences!

with brices
Albachoss 04/Jul DWS dnf

Surprise foot pop to belly flop!

feilx 04/Jul DWS rpt
dswansonlow 04/Jul DWS rpt
with Alex Banks
ollie_e 16/Jun DWS β

Greasy! But good fun.

with Charlie
Chubbard 16/Jun DWS rpt

Super greasy. Still v good.

with Ollie
Mark Chevassut 16/Jun DWS rpt
AaronBosley 10/Jun Solo β
Cheese Monkey 21/Sep/14 Solo rpt
with Charlie, Rich R
Stuart Johnston 21/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Coming around the arÍte is easily droppable.

adam 24 21/Sep/14 Solo dnf

Kept barn dooring off the arete :(

Hidden 13/Sep/14 DWS O/S
Stanners 03/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Wanted this in my logbook for ages! So pleased to have got it first time. Truly incredible deepwater solo !!! only thing I bottled was the jump off the top!

with Lads with the boat!, Andy G
KamilJ 24/Aug/14 Solo dnf

Felt on bridge

markalmack 24/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with gwen, james marjot
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Solo rpt
NDD 23/Aug/14 Solo β
with sam harvie
alexjz 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

wicked climb in the Conga line! about 6/7 people on the route, awesome and loads of fun!

J.Wells 23/Aug/14 DWS β
with lots
Dan 85 23/Aug/14 Solo β
Albachoss 23/Aug/14 Solo rpt
Rachel Slater 23/Aug/14 Solo β

Hard 5c for imps on the crux!

Duncan Campbell 23/Aug/14 Solo β

Tricky move out and around the arete. Very good.

with Rach
Adam Booth 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Gus 23/Aug/14 Solo
with chris barr, bob hickish
Llinos C 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with Cailean Harker, Gav Simmons, Simon Brice
highrepute 23/Aug/14 Solo
GuyVG 23/Aug/14 Solo β

shiny slab

with Andre Heckler et al
BenNorman 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Ace route

morganator 23/Aug/14 Solo rpt

Polished but classic

with Dan Arkle
Ahab 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
James Oswald 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Slippy, tough crux which required pulling hard on a crap pocket. Tough for 6b?

Laramadness 04/Aug/14 Solo β
hervenuttall ?/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with calum
theotherpetehill 27/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 27/Jul/14 Solo rpt
with Peter Hill, Matt
brian watson 26/Jul/14 Solo dnf
Sophie Nunn 20/Jul/14 Solo dnf
BenL 20/Jul/14 Solo RP
with Sarp
Ross.Cooper 12/Jul/14 DWS dnf

So slimy

paultaylor 25/Jun/14 Solo
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Solo rpt
AlexD 21/Jun/14 Solo

Still hard!!

with Sue
Alex More 16/Apr/14 Solo
funsized 13/Apr/14 Solo

As good as ever

with Ian
Angus12345 ??/2014 Solo β
mileshill540 ??/2014 DWS
Monkey_Alan 05/Sep/13 Solo dnf

Got to the crux, tried it several times but could not commit. Reversed the route and escaped up Troubled Waters.

Hidden 01/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Alex More ?/Sep/13 Solo
KDhruev 27/Aug/13 Solo β
kieranrex 25/Aug/13 -

DWS send train. CHOO CHOO!

with Boosh Crew
luke384 25/Aug/13 Solo β

Send trainage!

with Boosh crew
spidey 25/Aug/13 Solo β
with mark reily, mat lamb, luke clarke, luke owens
feilx 07/Aug/13 Solo rpt
with Andy L
quiffhanger 27/Jul/13 Solo rpt

With my Brother - his second ever DWS.

Kopinski 24/Jul/13 Solo O/S
Tom Livingstone 24/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Mrframpton 24/Jul/13 Solo dnf
jonleighton 21/Jul/13 Solo rpt
shark 20/Jul/13 Solo
with Sonia + family
Perryman 20/Jul/13 Solo
with Paolita
Luxulyan 20/Jul/13 Solo rpt
with Tom Murrell
Cheese Monkey 18/Jul/13 Solo O/S

If I could give one route 4 stars it would be this one. Loved it

Hidden 16/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Solo
nathanlee 13/Jul/13 Solo β

Techy around the arete, then a glory finish.

with DWS Crew
Boy 13/Jul/13 Solo O/S
with Emlyn James, Nathan Lee, Rhys Crabtree, Kim Tompson
BenNorman 11/Jul/13 Solo RP

2nd go, got spooked on the first. Real techy climbing and intricate sequences, great route.

brices 11/Jul/13 DWS rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Luxulyan 06/Jul/13 Solo O/S
with Martin, Sophie
Jeronimo 06/Jul/13 Solo
Gus 02/Jun/13 Solo
with simon "the horse" wilson
Hidden 02/Jun/13 DWS β
katiep 01/Jun/13 Solo dnf

I fell off at the crux, I will be back!

Sophie Nunn 01/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Stroppy 01/Jun/13 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 01/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Albachoss 01/Jun/13 Solo β

Again and again, brilliant fun!

with Ben
mc fifi 01/Jun/13 Solo dnf
owb106 01/Jun/13 Solo β

Finally killed the Conger gremlin!!

jacobjlloyd 30/May/13 -
Hidden 03/May/13 Solo rpt
feeko ??/2013 -
Rupey 22/Sep/12 Solo dnf
with alan
Dan_Carroll 20/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Bristoldave 15/Sep/12 Solo O/S
with LukeW
brices 08/Sep/12 DWS O/S

fun harder than i thought it would be

with Luke Hodson, Jack
lukeh 08/Sep/12 Solo β


with simon brice, jack folkes
Tom Livingstone 08/Sep/12 Solo β
Patrick Hill 07/Sep/12 Solo O/S
with Mark Chevassut, olly12344
oliver.ghill91 07/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Sophie Nunn 06/Sep/12 Solo rpt
AlexD 06/Sep/12 Solo O/S

Even better than the hype! Crux was harder than i was expecting but the reward is a jugtastic chimney. Amazing positions! Hopefully the first of many ascents.

with james
dan gibson 06/Sep/12 Solo rpt
with alex mason
gibsond 06/Sep/12 Solo O/S

Every bit as good as its reputation.

Alex Mason 05/Sep/12 Solo O/S


with Dan Gibson
quiffhanger 01/Sep/12 -

Very memorable coaching Niklas up it. He got mega pumped and slapped his way through the final chimney. Very good effort & very entertaining.

with Dan
Alex the Alex ?/Sep/12 Solo dnf
jacobjacob 19/Aug/12 Solo rpt

Kindov horrible, this is a million miles harder than freeborn man!

quiffhanger 18/Aug/12 Solo rpt

Real shame Jacob stayed on despite my best attempts to get the holds wet and give him bad beta.

with Jacob
Alex More 09/Aug/12 Solo
Alex Norman 26/Jul/12 Solo β

Amazing route, jumped off the top!

BeccaSnowden 26/Jul/12 Solo RP


Jake Young 26/Jul/12 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 04/Jun/12 Solo rpt

Another high-tide ascent: def makes the start the crux ~f6c to traverse in without using the ledge.

mwatson ?/Jun/12 Solo O/S
paultaylor 22/May/12 Solo O/S
will moy 22/May/12 Solo RP
with paul taylor
Mark Warnett ?/May/12 Solo β

to finish a brilliant hot Swanage day. harder than i remembered

feilx 28/Jan/12 Solo rpt
kateb-oxf 15/Oct/11 Solo β
nickevens 02/Oct/11 Solo β
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Solo β
marcb 02/Oct/11 Solo β

Thanks Ben for the beta! Possibly the best DWS I have done.

with Ben Corbey
Alex More 01/Oct/11 Solo rpt

DWS in October!

with Joel
rustaldo 01/Oct/11 Solo RP

sweet route. so easy when you knows hows..

quiffhanger 01/Oct/11 Solo rpt

Did at high tide - the first crux was the traverse in to avoid getting wet boots! 2nd crux was jumping off the top afterwards.

Hidden 01/Oct/11 Solo rpt
Ed Westwood 02/Sep/11 Solo dnf
tim newton 28/Aug/11 DWS O/S
willbatho 19/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/11 Solo β
jacobjlloyd 06/Aug/11 Solo rpt
with Joe Kinsella, Jon Leighton, Harry Martin
jonleighton 06/Aug/11 Solo β
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Solo O/S
alaan 01/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Solo O/S
AJM 31/Jul/11 Solo β

Freaked out at the start chimney and shook like a shitting dog to the top - need to convince myself it isn't just soloing!

Stone Muppet 31/Jul/11 Solo O/S

Amazing - some kind of altered state of consciousness flowing up the ladder of jugs after the crux!

Hidden 30/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Tophe 30/Jul/11 Solo rpt
madasten 10/Jul/11 Solo dnf

Came off the crux as the rock was still greasy from yesterday's ferocious waves. I'm definitely going back though...

with Miquel
sarpedon 02/Jul/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Solo dnf
Matt Smith 01/Jul/11 DWS dnf

Thought I was doing pretty well up until the arete then swang of it as I was going up it. Gutted! Definetly another day though.

feilx 26/Jun/11 Solo rpt
loz901 26/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Mr Tickle 04/Jun/11 Solo O/S

Been waiting to do this for a while and it lived up to expectations

with davenev
Amy Horton 04/Jun/11 Solo dnf
funsized 04/Jun/11 Solo rpt
dswansonlow 04/Jun/11 Solo rpt
dswansonlow 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
feilx 26/May/11 Solo rpt
Sophie Nunn 25/May/11 Solo rpt
funsized 25/May/11 Solo β
sarpedon 25/May/11 Solo β

Beta courtesy of Felix Coxwell.

John Tanner 25/May/11 Solo β
La Mont 21/May/11 -
feilx 18/May/11 Solo rpt
jacobjlloyd 01/May/11 Solo O/S

Amazing. As good as everyone says it is. As good as it looks. If you haven't done this yet, do it now!

with All by myself.
feilx 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt
rustaldo 26/Mar/11 Solo dnf

my first DWS.. going great up till the crux.. where i spent almost 2hrs going back and forth trying to figure out the moves.. i could conceive of the move, but i couldnt find any holds.. eventually got wet as i tried to reverse..

Hidden ??/2011 -
Gambit 25/Sep/10 Solo O/S

was a little surprised no swimming involved!

with James
Mowglee 18/Sep/10 Solo dnf

Such a weak puntering wuss

SiW 18/Sep/10 Solo
with And
Sophie Nunn 31/Aug/10 Solo
brian watson 31/Aug/10 Solo
ellis 28/Aug/10 Solo rpt
pawelx 28/Aug/10 Solo O/S

easy Fr 6b

jelaby 28/Aug/10 Solo β
morganator 28/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Tom Bridgeland, Blonde Tom, Andy Benson
Mike Goldthorp 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Magnificent! Superb rock (which makes a nice change from the rest of swanage) and wicked technical moves, and never felt too high above the water. F6b

jacobjacob 08/Aug/10 Solo O/S
felixthelion 08/Aug/10 Solo β
slav ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
littleluke ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
quiffhanger ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
JulesV 25/Jul/10 Solo
Chubbard 24/Jul/10 Solo rpt
with Harvey
Ally Baba 08/Jul/10 Solo β

Such an amazing route.

with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
mgeek ?/Jul/10 Solo O/S
with ally swinton, Tony Stone
al99 27/Jun/10 DWS O/S
nutcracker 26/Jun/10 Solo

2nd go, Blew onsight after crux. Awesome.

Laurence Everitt 22/Jun/10 DWS O/S
Lawrence Bird 22/Jun/10 Solo
feilx 12/Jun/10 Solo rpt
gnc760 05/Jun/10 Solo rpt
with James Kay
Hidden 05/Jun/10 Solo rpt
Jane Weir ??/2010 Solo O/S
rosh3000 17/Oct/09 Solo β

gr8 climb never again

dprctr 17/Oct/09 Solo dnf
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Solo dnf
tobydunford 27/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/09 Solo O/S
brian watson 13/Sep/09 Solo rpt
adam coxsell 06/Sep/09 Solo dnf
gnc760 06/Sep/09 Solo rpt

Flipped off after the chimney. Overcooked it and took a nasty faceplant. Wicked wicked route.

Hidden ?/Sep/09 Solo β
Rob Laird 31/Aug/09 DWS O/S

Fell off while resting (foot slipped), then run out of time to try again. Next time!

pelvoux 31/Aug/09 Solo O/S
dan gibson 31/Aug/09 Solo rpt
with AJ, michael porter
liamoloughlin 29/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Very good

Hidden 23/Aug/09 Solo rpt
sparkass 22/Aug/09 Solo O/S
Bern 08/Aug/09 Solo
thomb ?/Aug/09 Solo rpt
with Pete
Jus 04/Jul/09 Solo rpt
Fran S8 20/Jun/09 Solo β
trev_f 04/Jun/09 Solo O/S
gnc760 03/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Ed Babs 30/Aug/08 Solo β
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Solo O/S
dan gibson 23/Aug/08 Solo rpt
Dhonny_Jaws 23/Aug/08 Solo β


adrianjenner 01/Aug/08 Solo RP
Bern 27/Jul/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 26/Jul/08 DWS β
Hidden 17/Jun/08 Solo O/S
feilx 08/Jun/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 03/May/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/07 Solo rpt
Castleclimber 01/Sep/07 Solo β
with Justin
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Solo RP
Jus ?/Sep/07 Solo
Ram MkiV 24/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with Dan
cmsg 12/Aug/07 Solo dnf

Jumped off the crux. Boo. Next time.

Hidden 11/Aug/07 Solo
Tim Steward 10/Aug/07 Solo O/S
sgl0jd ?/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Solo rpt
btc 19/Jul/07 Solo dnf
with keith daly
Brown 16/Jul/07 Solo O/S
with Alex
AJ007 10/Jun/07 DWS G/U

Briliant. Third time Lucky.

dan gibson 10/Jun/07 Solo rpt
Somerset swede basher 09/Jun/07 Solo O/S
with George, Linus and Kine
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Solo dnf
Hidden 09/Jun/07 Solo β
Martin Krasnansky 10/May/07 Solo O/S
chrisbevins ??/2007 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Solo dnf
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
theloringharvey ??/2007 Solo O/S
dan gibson 14/Oct/06 Solo O/S

the first of many times since. Always great fun.

Hidden 15/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Solo
Andrew Barker ?/Sep/06 Solo β
with Dave Pattinson, Mike McClean
Hidden 26/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Solo O/S
phsharpy 08/Aug/06 Solo O/S
with Alex, Paz, Bethan
bronsonite 08/Aug/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Solo RP
nathanmanc 08/Aug/06 Solo β
derico ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S

Then Jumped off the top!

with Andy
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S
whispering nic 26/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Dave Kerr 26/Jul/06 Solo
Hidden 26/Jul/06 Solo O/S
philhilo ?/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Solo dnf
beanfingers 24/Jun/06 Solo O/S

first climb of that day - was soaking wet when i got on it but still incredible with the massive bridging

with felix
bfreeman ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Solo rpt
Bern ??/2006 Solo O/S
feeko ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 Solo O/S
XamaX ??/2006 Solo dnf

No Joy...

with Anita Gaskins/Marnix
Bargate_Champ 26/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Aug/05 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/05 Solo rpt
Pythonist 20/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Aug/05 DWS
Owen W-G 07/Aug/05 Solo O/S

...and once a summer thereafter. Still not got the cohones for FBM though.

with Max
bigie bob ?/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Mark Riley ?/Aug/05 Solo β
Bux ?/Aug/05 Solo
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jun/05 Solo O/S
feilx ??/2005 -
Smelly Fox 08/Aug/04 DWS G/U

Deep water solo.

Will Gordon ?/Aug/04 Solo O/S
Richard Horn ?/Jun/04 Solo RP
Boxy 27/Sep/03 Solo β
bigphil 09/Aug/03 Solo O/S

DWS Fest 2003

spidey 09/Aug/03 Solo
Hidden 02/Aug/03 Solo
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Solo O/S
tuftynick ?/Aug/03 Solo O/S
with Aide Jebb
simon kimber ?/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Solo
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden 01/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/02 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Solo
pezzerrr 27/Aug/01 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2001 Solo RP
westaway ??/2001 Solo O/S
MoWalker3 01/Jan/00 Solo
with Joe
Marti999 ??/2000 Solo
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
r0b 26/Jul/99 Solo O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/99 Solo O/S
Roget 26/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with jon
CrashMat Rob 24/May/98 Solo dnf

controlled jump off half way up

with Nicky
Just Another Dave ??/1997 DWS O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1996 Solo β

With Steve Taylor following, telling me what to do!

kp64zl ?/Sep/95 Solo
Cowflinger ?/Jun/95 Solo O/S

Day trip with Jenkins and Brad, complete with jump off top

Hidden ?/Nov/94 2nd
steve taylor ?/May/90 Solo O/S

First DWS, liked it so much I wrote a guide.

steve taylor ?/May/90 Solo
with Joff Cook
Nigel Coe 26/Jun/83 2nd dog
with Tim Dunsby
Chris Terrey ?/May/81 2nd
with Mike Morrison
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 67
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set