Rockfax Description
6c, S1. A classic, with a soft landing. From halfway along the approach traverse, climb the slab and then the steep pocketed wall above to a big hole. Swing left and make some final tricky moves onto the top slab. Linking from just below the crux to Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage is Freeborn Borg, 7a+, S1, and continuing direct onto the slab is Freeborn Direct, 7a, S1. © Rockfax

FA. Nick Buckley, Kevin Turner 8.79 Aug/1979

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Hard water, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, Dorset weekender, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

burto 30/Aug DWS O/S
with ferdia, hertha
Hidden 29/Aug Solo rpt
Hidden 29/Aug DWS rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 29/Aug DWS rpt
AJ007 29/Aug DWS G/U
nathanlee 29/Aug DWS rpt
with Crew
James Oakes 29/Aug DWS β
Hidden 29/Aug DWS O/S
malx 29/Aug Solo
GuyVG 29/Aug DWS rpt


Gus 29/Aug DWS
Mr Sparkle 29/Aug DWS β

Awesome route - over too quickly though!

Ram MkiV 29/Aug DWS rpt
dswansonlow 29/Aug DWS RP
willsm11 19/Aug DWS β

Done in the rain and wind. Was keen not to take the plunge.

with Frances
Ramon Marin 17/Jul DWS β
with viki harvey
DorsetGareth 04/Jul DWS β

What a climb! Stoked to send it.

tsyrett 04/Jul DWS

Fell on the rock over on my first attempt. Got it second attempt with a big reach to the better higher hold.

AlexD 04/Jul Solo rpt
will black 04/Jul Solo G/U

Fist route and fall of the day! Great fun went 2nd attempt when i knew the way!

Caspian Johnson 04/Jul DWS β
with brices
Albachoss 04/Jul DWS rpt
feilx 04/Jul DWS rpt
dswansonlow 04/Jul DWS rpt
with Alex Banks
JCAshman ?/Jul DWS β
ollie_e 16/Jun DWS β

Superb! Fantastic climbing right to the very end.

with Charlie
Chubbard 16/Jun DWS rpt

Still scary. I'd forgotten how good the moves were.

with Ollie
AaronBosley 10/Jun Solo dnf

Definitely one I want to go back and try again!

pearson9596 07/Jun DWS dnf
quiffhanger 07/Jun DWS rpt
Cheese Monkey 21/Sep/14 Solo β

By the skin of my teeth! Epic!

with Charlie, Rich R
Stuart Johnston 21/Sep/14 Solo β

Very very good

Andrew Barker 16/Sep/14 Solo β

Saw a couple of people climb it on Saturday but didn't like the swell. No problems today. What a great route.

Hidden 13/Sep/14 DWS O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Solo rpt
alexjz 24/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Woop! incredible route, scary at the top.

markalmack 24/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with gwen, james marjot
tim newton 23/Aug/14 DWS rpt
Alex moore 23/Aug/14 Solo
NDD 23/Aug/14 Solo β
with sam harvie
J.Wells 23/Aug/14 DWS O/S
with lots
Dan 85 23/Aug/14 Solo β
Albachoss 23/Aug/14 Solo β
Adam Booth 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Retro flash

Adam Booth 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Gus 23/Aug/14 Solo
with chris barr, bob hickish
Llinos C 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
with Cailean Harker, Gav Simmons, Simon Brice
highrepute 23/Aug/14 Solo β
brices 23/Aug/14 DWS β
GuyVG 23/Aug/14 DWS β

bring the heck!

with Andre Heckler et al
BenNorman 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Always good

morganator 23/Aug/14 Solo rpt

A cast of thousands and nobody binned it as far as I noticed

with Dan Arkle
James Oswald 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Really good, the move up into the undercut is powerful and requires commitment. But the traverse of the lip is fine and the rockover's really good. F6b+?

Duncan Campbell 23/Aug/14 Solo β

Had watched a load of people on it. Pretty steady except for the move into the undercut near the top. Absolutely brilliant. Got very heavily heckled whilst on it - which made it seem less serious.

with Rach
hervenuttall ?/Aug/14 Solo O/S

soft. the move coming around the arete on the conger is harder than any move on Freeborn Man

with calum
theotherpetehill 27/Jul/14 Solo β
with Ross McKerchar
quiffhanger 27/Jul/14 Solo rpt
with Matt
Rupey 12/Jul/14 Solo

First go this year

Ross.Cooper 12/Jul/14 DWS RP

Straight forward after a shunt like a wetter

Sophie Nunn 10/Jul/14 Solo RP

Long overdue, got it first attempt of the year!

with Ed B, Alex
adam 24 06/Jul/14 Solo β

Exciting route! Very pleased to do this and not get wet!

Smelly Fox 30/Jun/14 DWS β

I'm having the retro flash! Tried 10 years ago but fell off the crux. Didn't get wet this time. Awesome route!

paultaylor 25/Jun/14 Solo
AlexD 21/Jun/14 Solo
with Sue
ian d f 17/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Paul K
sarpedon 16/May/14 Solo rpt
BenL 15/May/14 Solo β
with Sarp
funsized 15/Mar/14 Solo rpt

I'm claiming first send of 2014 whoop!

with Fi
mileshill540 ??/2014 DWS
Sophie Nunn 05/Sep/13 Solo dnf
Alex More ?/Sep/13 Solo
KDhruev 27/Aug/13 Solo RP
kieranrex 25/Aug/13 -

So pleased I plucked up the courage for this one. Had a really good day with the Boosh Crew send train. Jumped off the top in celebration. Dispatchio Soup!

with Boosh Crew
luke384 25/Aug/13 Solo β

Mega climb an a right of passage to the area! As awesome as it looks. Steady all the way with good holds!

with Boosh crew
spidey 25/Aug/13 Solo β
with mark reily, mat lamb, luke clarke, luke owens
Sophie Nunn 24/Aug/13 Solo dnf
AlexD 11/Aug/13 Solo dnf
with Richard
feilx 07/Aug/13 Solo rpt
with Andy L
Kopinski 24/Jul/13 Solo O/S
quiffhanger 21/Jul/13 Solo rpt

Twice, once to try figure out the top of Herman Borg.

Oddjob 21/Jul/13 DWS β

Really, really classy.

with Rosie
jonleighton 21/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Perryman 20/Jul/13 Solo
with Paolita
Luxulyan 20/Jul/13 Solo β
with Tom Murrell
paultaylor 15/Jul/13 Solo β
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Solo
nathanlee 13/Jul/13 Solo β

Sketchy rockover at the top, harder than I was expecting!

with DWS Crew
Boy 13/Jul/13 Solo O/S
with Emlyn James, Nathan Lee, Rhys Crabtree, Kim Tompson
BenNorman 11/Jul/13 Solo β

Little beta from the flanks in a couple places but pretty much onsight, pretty scared near the top. Amazing roue and good to feel like im climbing well again.

Glyn 06/Jul/13 Solo β
Sophie Nunn 06/Jul/13 Solo dnf
jonleighton 06/Jul/13 Solo rpt
Tom Livingstone 21/Jun/13 Solo rpt
jacobjlloyd 21/Jun/13 Solo rpt
Gus 02/Jun/13 Solo
with simon "the horse" wilson
Hidden 02/Jun/13 DWS β
Sophie Nunn 01/Jun/13 Solo dnf
Stroppy 01/Jun/13 Solo β
quiffhanger 01/Jun/13 Solo rpt
quiffhanger 01/Jun/13 Solo rpt
owb106 01/Jun/13 Solo β

Made a hash of the traverse. Great route.

with Ed Hastrop, Josh Bamsey, Benjamin Corbey, Matt Smith
Hidden 16/May/13 Solo O/S
feeko ??/2013 -
Rupey 22/Sep/12 Solo dnf
with alan
Bristoldave 15/Sep/12 Solo β
with LukeW
Tom Livingstone 08/Sep/12 Solo O/S

well psyched, awesome route!

oliver.ghill91 07/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Sophie Nunn 07/Sep/12 Solo dnf
Patrick Hill 07/Sep/12 Solo RP
with Mark Chevassut, olly12344
Sophie Nunn 06/Sep/12 Solo dnf
Jeronimo 02/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Pure grease and a cold grey day. Did the jump from Rio Point with the young Cook brothers, the highlight of the day. Jumping with a wetsuit makes a big difference!

quiffhanger 01/Sep/12 Solo rpt

Twice, after god knows how many ascents I'm finally getting some consistent beta.

with Dan
Sophie Nunn 26/Aug/12 Solo dnf
jacobjacob 19/Aug/12 Solo rpt

Haha Ross fell in!

quiffhanger 19/Aug/12 Solo dnf

I fell in! Good chalkbag, trousers, good shoes :( Luckily I wasn't quite so cocky that I left my expensive sunglasses on. Pinged off the under-cling at the start of final traverse. Totally relaxed, no warning - I was underwater before I knew what had happened.

with Jacob
quiffhanger 19/Aug/12 Solo rpt

A little more cautious this time round :)

with Jacob
Laurence Everitt 11/Aug/12 DWS O/S
BeccaSnowden 26/Jul/12 Solo dnf

2 awesome big falls from the crux. Got to get back on it!

Jake Young 26/Jul/12 Solo dnf

fell below the undercut psyched to give it a proper go

rustaldo 30/Jun/12 Solo RP

No dramas today, cruised it until the last move pulling onto the slab when I nearly blew it! Swell was major! Uber scary for a few moments..

jacobjlloyd 04/Jun/12 Solo rpt
quiffhanger 04/Jun/12 Solo rpt
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 02/Jun/12 Solo rpt
with Ross
quiffhanger 02/Jun/12 Solo rpt
with Jake
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Solo O/S
funsized ?/Jun/12 Solo rpt
jacobjlloyd 12/May/12 Solo rpt
with Sophie, Ross
quiffhanger 12/May/12 Solo rpt
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/12 Solo rpt

Couldn't walk by without romping up it. Done it enough times now that it feels like HVS!

with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/12 Solo RP
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 28/Jan/12 Solo rpt
with Felix
feilx 28/Jan/12 Solo rpt
kateb-oxf 15/Oct/11 Solo β
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Solo dnf
halfdan 02/Oct/11 Solo dnf

Didn't have the bottle to continue past 2/3 of the way up. One day!

with Danny Sutton, Marc Baldwin
rustaldo 01/Oct/11 Solo dnf

what a route! couldnt have tried any harded.. will get it next time. superb.

Jon_Warner 01/Oct/11 Solo dnf

Probably easier when not heavily hung over. Brilliant route. Next time!

quiffhanger 01/Oct/11 Solo rpt

2 times, wobbly on first but solid repeat with improved beta.

Hidden 01/Oct/11 Solo β
tim newton 28/Aug/11 DWS O/S
dswansonlow 25/Aug/11 DWS rpt
with Dan Barbour
Alex More 10/Aug/11 Solo dnf

was able to count to 5 on the way down, good fall...

jacobjlloyd 06/Aug/11 Solo rpt
with Joe Kinsella, Jon Leighton, Harry Martin
Harry Martin 06/Aug/11 Solo RP

What a climb! Screwed it up the first time by ignoring lots of holds. Love a good bath anyway.

with joe kinsella
andi turner 06/Aug/11 Solo

Great. Late in the evening it added some a bit special.

with Eddie, Gus & Simon Wilson
jonleighton 06/Aug/11 Solo β
JKinsella 06/Aug/11 DWS β


Hidden 03/Aug/11 Solo β
alaan 01/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Bargate_Champ 30/Jul/11 DWS O/S
La Mont 13/Jul/11 -
feilx 13/Jul/11 Solo rpt
sarpedon 02/Jul/11 Solo rpt
Matt Smith 01/Jul/11 DWS dnf

Got up the slab and fell going for the high left hold under the undercling. Such a cool route and pretty intimidating.

John Tanner 27/Jun/11 Solo β
feilx 26/Jun/11 Solo rpt
feilx 23/Jun/11 Solo rpt

done as a linkup from the jugs on troubled waters

funsized 04/Jun/11 Solo rpt
jacobjlloyd 04/Jun/11 Solo RP

Finally! Missed the os by falling off it a week earlier, hungover in my jeans in the wet. Feels pretty fair in the dry, and the sequence flows so unbelievably naturally!

with amy horton, Dougie, Felix
dswansonlow 04/Jun/11 DWS RP
dswansonlow 03/Jun/11 DWS dnf
feilx 26/May/11 Solo rpt
tom106 25/May/11 Solo rpt
sarpedon 25/May/11 Solo β

A little beta, which I mostly disregarded.

La Mont 21/May/11 -
feilx 18/May/11 Solo rpt
funsized 18/May/11 Solo β
tom106 18/May/11 Solo RP
with felix jonnyp
feilx 09/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
harvie ??/2011 Solo O/S
ellis 28/Aug/10 Solo rpt
morganator 28/Aug/10 Solo O/S
with Tom Bridgeland, Blonde Tom, Andy Benson
Mike Goldthorp 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Superb! Lovely pocket holds and a spicy move into the undercut. Top rockover is exciting too (but not hard if you keep your whits). F6c/+

jacobjacob 08/Aug/10 Solo O/S

did it twice. The first time felt very scary but by the end of a day of soloing it felt a whole lot more relaxed.

slav ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
quiffhanger ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Ed Babs 29/Jul/10 Solo O/S
JulesV 25/Jul/10 Solo
sparkass 24/Jul/10 Solo β
Chubbard 24/Jul/10 Solo rpt
with Harvey
RobRock84 12/Jul/10 TR dog
mgeek ?/Jul/10 Solo O/S
with ally swinton, Tony Stone
Ed Booth 29/Jun/10 Solo dnf

Wet today, took the ride.

Ceridwen 27/Jun/10 Solo dnf
al99 26/Jun/10 DWS O/S
Martin Krasnansky 12/Jun/10 Solo β
feilx 12/Jun/10 Solo rpt
gnc760 05/Jun/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/10 DWS β
Hidden 23/May/10 Solo rpt
Jane Weir ??/2010 Solo O/S
jld579 ??/2010 Solo
Hidden 13/Sep/09 Solo
brian watson 13/Sep/09 Solo β
gnc760 06/Sep/09 Solo RP


Hidden ?/Sep/09 Solo β
liamoloughlin 29/Aug/09 Solo O/S

Once committed at the crux the top falls in to place...

Bern 08/Aug/09 Solo
Hidden 01/Aug/09 Solo rpt
Jamie Goodwin ?/Aug/09 Solo β
Jus 04/Jul/09 Solo rpt
feilx 21/Jun/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Solo
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jun/09 DWS O/S
Jeronimo 16/Jun/09 Solo O/S
with Rob Canavan
gnc760 03/Jun/09 Solo dnf
hippo99 21/May/09 Solo O/S
with bob, joe
feilx 25/Apr/09 Solo rpt
AJ007 23/Aug/08 Solo dnf
dan gibson 23/Aug/08 Solo rpt
Dhonny_Jaws 23/Aug/08 Solo dnf
with Daniel Gibson, AJ, Michael Porter
Ed Booth 17/Aug/08 Solo O/S
adrianjenner 01/Aug/08 Solo dnf
Hidden 26/Jul/08 DWS β
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Solo RP
dmoir 08/Jun/08 Solo O/S
JonBrown ?/Jun/08 Solo dnf
with Felix
feilx 10/May/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Sep/07 Solo rpt
Jus ?/Sep/07 Solo
Ram MkiV 24/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with Dan
thomb ?/Aug/07 Solo RP

DWS. Incredible.

Hidden ?/Aug/07 Solo
btc 19/Jul/07 Solo dnf
with keith daly
Brown 16/Jul/07 Solo O/S
with Alex
dannyboy83 11/Jul/07 Solo G/U
dan gibson 10/Jun/07 Solo O/S
Somerset swede basher 09/Jun/07 Solo O/S
with George, Linus and Kine
chrisbevins ??/2007 Solo RP
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden 26/Aug/06 Solo
Hidden 08/Aug/06 Solo β
phsharpy 08/Aug/06 Solo O/S
with Alex, Paz, Bethan
bronsonite 08/Aug/06 Solo O/S
nathanmanc 08/Aug/06 Solo β
lx ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S

onsight, (fr6c)

Hidden ?/Aug/06 Solo O/S
whispering nic 26/Jul/06 Solo O/S
Richard Horn 02/Jul/06 Solo β
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Solo
feilx 24/Jun/06 Solo O/S
beanfingers 24/Jun/06 Solo dnf

got half way up when my technique seemingly disappeared resulting in a large splash. next time.

with felix
bfreeman ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Jus ?/May/06 Solo rpt
feeko ??/2006 -
Neil Adams ??/2006 TR dog
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 20/Aug/05 Solo rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Pythonist 20/Aug/05 Solo O/S
ingo ?/Aug/05 Solo β
Mark Riley ?/Aug/05 Solo β


bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Solo O/S
pezzerrr 05/Sep/04 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Aug/03 Solo O/S
tuftynick ?/Aug/03 Solo O/S
with Aide Jebb
simon kimber ?/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Solo
Hidden 01/Sep/02 Solo O/S
Marti999 ??/2000 Solo
westaway ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 Solo
Hidden 25/Jul/99 Solo β
Hidden ??/1999 Solo
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Just Another Dave ??/1997 DWS dnf

Failed twice!

Tim M ??/1995 Solo O/S
Bern ?/Jul/92 Solo O/S
steve taylor ?/Aug/91 Solo
with Joff Cook
steve taylor ?/Aug/90 Solo RP

Yellow-point - soloed it after trying on top-rope!

turnerk ??/1979 2nd RP
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Sam Husband, Hidden, Alextreme, Hidden, Bernie L, stevoland, ashtond6, Kyle87, Ollie B, Matt Smith, Hidden, Hidden, Motown, Hidden, HaleAlex, James S, KDhruev, bencoope, Hidden, virgil, Adam Booth, James Oswald, deklan, Alex Norman, Hidden, Hidden, JamesRich, RFWilkie, rustaldo, timmyhobby, stvey, loz901, Paul Boggis, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, jelaby, joese7en, Catsjit, Gambit, Hidden, Mowglee, A Downing, Hidden, The Mountain Goat, EmmanuelF, Ezy Ryder, fennerz, Hidden, Jon_Warner, sgl0jd, Hidden, Will Hunt, davewing, Hidden, Kyuzo, Hidden
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 49
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set