The Directissima A2
76m, 2 pitches. From Dave Musgrove:

The original line climbed by Barrie Biven and Trevor Peck in 1959 climbed
the wall in 3 pitches. The first pitch was short from the right side of the
beck up to the catwalk. The second started around about where Free and Even
Easier does now but climbed up and leftwards through the bulges to the tree
on the upper ledge on the left. The third pitch took a direct line roughly
on the line of what is now Local Hero.

In the early 1960s the second pitch was straightened out and better bolts
were added starting further left where Chiselling the dragon goes now. The
route was very popular in the 60s and 70s but the short first pitch became
redundant and was rarely climbed. This route became known as the

Barrie Biven, Trevor Peck 1959
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This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Seymore Butt - 2010

uphillnow - 1990

Hammy - AltLd - 13/Jun/82 with Pete Smith

Our first aid route! Took us all day!
charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/81 with Ian Milne

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 24/Jun/77 with Speedy Smith

Hidden - Lead - Jun/75

In mostly total darkness with a primitive headtorch, mostly climbed by feel & fear! The original second had chickened out.
Sean Kelly - 2nd - Apr/74 with Mick Green

Hidden - AltLd - 1974

But only got half way before night fell
pneame - 2nd dnf - Nov/72 with Dave Awbery

I led both pitches. Rob seconded the 1st and Bob joined me on ledge to follow the second.
Dave Musgrove - Lead - 22/Mar/70 with Rob Wood, Bob Knapton

Pitch one only - It took us all day - incompetent novices!
Dave Musgrove - Lead dnf - 25/Mar/68 with Hugh Maclean

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