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The Directissima A2

Adjacent Climbs
<< Chiselling the Dragon
 
Seventh Aardvark >>
76m, 2 pitches. From Dave Musgrove: The original line climbed by Barrie Biven and Trevor Peck in 1959 climbed the wall in 3 pitches. The first pitch was short from the right side of the beck up to the catwalk. The second started around about where Free and Even Easier does now but climbed up and leftwards through the bulges to the tree on the upper ledge on the left. The third pitch took a direct line roughly on the line of what is now Local Hero. In the early 1960s the second pitch was straightened out and better bolts were added starting further left where Chiselling the dragon goes now. The route was very popular in the 60s and 70s but the short first pitch became redundant and was rarely climbed. This route became known as the Directissima.
Barrie Biven, Trevor Peck 1959
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Seymore Butt - 2010

David Smith - 1990

Hammy - AltLd - 13/Jun/82 with Pete Smith

Our first aid route! Took us all day!
charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/81 with Ian Milne

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 24/Jun/77 with Speedy Smith

Steve Woollard - Lead - Jun/75 with Doug Adams

In mostly total darkness with a primitive headtorch, mostly climbed by feel & fear! The original second had chickened out.
Sean Kelly - 2nd - Apr/74 with Mick Green

But only got half way before night fell
pneame - 2nd dnf - Nov/72 with Dave Awbery

I led both pitches. Rob seconded the 1st and Bob joined me on ledge to follow the second.
Dave Musgrove - Lead - 22/Mar/70 with Rob Wood, Bob Knapton

Pitch one only - It took us all day - incompetent novices!
Dave Musgrove - Lead dnf - 25/Mar/68 with Hugh Maclean

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