Anzac* VI 6
250m, 5 pitches. A good mountaineering route with hard to find pro and some short hard sections low down. Situated on the central buttress, taking the right edge of the shallow buttress to the left of the central snowfields of Passendale. Start from the snow terrace below the upper cliff, 25m right of the snows highest point, as for Passendale. Belay below a short left facing square corner. 1. 40m 6, Poorly protected in the lower section but good pro before the hard V groove. From the belay step up onto the crest on the right as for Passendale, up then right, and left aiming for an open V groove at 25m. Climb the groove 4m, with difficulty; pass a short wide crack up to large flake belay. 2. 40m 5, Move right 2m to a hanging line of turf up a rib. Climb this exiting right on to easier ground after 8m. Follow this rightwards 4m towards the central snowfield until an open groove line above leads to an overhang where awkward moves left allow access to steadier ground and a belay on the left below right facing corner. 3. 47m 4. Climb the corner to its top, exit left and up in to another right facing corner directly below a distinct prominent hanging detached pinnacle/tower containing a chimney/off-width (visible from the base of the crag). Belay on a large spike on the right, just before angle eases (a longer rope would allow a belay above). 4. 40m 4. Continue up to below the distinct pinnacle and sneak left around its base to a short corner in the gulley where Broken Cease Fire finishes, which leads to easier ground. 5. 90m 1/2. Easier ground leads to a narrow ridge above Western Gully and the summit plateau.
Chris Parkin & Adam Wainwright 03/Jan/2010
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